How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.

[vacuumnoise]

Stock ODB2 Cam (it's a slightly better profile than the OBD1 cam) 32* max timing. And heres the real craziness..... 130+wtq from 2600-5200rpm! HP peaked at 5600. Pulled to 6200

I LOVE long rod motors! You can take the O6A blocks and shove em...

incredible!

[Hurt]

Stock ODB2 Cam (it's a slightly better profile than the OBD1 cam) 32* max timing. And heres the real craziness..... 130+wtq from 2600-5200rpm! HP peaked at 5600. Pulled to 6200

Amazing. You down to come out to MA and tune my Corrado?

I'm just running a 270* cam, a very-mildly done head, my SRI, full exhaust, and a PEM. I get 25MPG with it when I drive it, and I'm using stock suspension lol.

[Prof315]

Amazing. You down to come out to MA and tune my Corrado?

I'm just running a 270* cam, a very-mildly done head, my SRI, full exhaust, and a PEM. I get 25MPG with it when I drive it, and I'm using stock suspension lol.

Buy an MS3 and fly me up!

[911_fan]

Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.

[Prof315]

Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.

I keep trying to tell everyone, canned tunes SUCK! Yeah yeah, I know, emissions testing, especially on OBD2 cars. But that's why M & L EFI offers custom P&Ps.

[Hurt]

Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.

Me too. Thinking 135whp would have been 150+ on MS3.

[Hurt]

I'm debating putting a cannon looking muffler on the back of my GT's exhaust. It's too freaking loud. This muffler is what I'm going to probably get, I like the dual tip look. It's fully adjustable for noise, there's basically a throttle plate inside the muffler that makes it straight through or closed when and if you want it to .. Anyone think this will actually work/look nice?

[ps2375]

Is the cost of something like that even worth it? And I wonder how long the "throttle" mechanism will remain moveable in some parts of the country on a car driven year round.

[zero.]

The outer diameter of body is a couple inches bigger than other replacements and I don't know if that's also including the throttle thing on top. You might have to hang it low just for that cause it looks like it'd need a couple inches of clearance.

[ps2375]

Looks like the car's weight dist will shift to the rear a bit.

[vacuumnoise]

Looks like the car's weight dist will shift to the rear a bit.

haha, yeh i wouldnt run that, just run another resonator (or two)

[zero.]

Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.

[Hurt]

Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.

Yeah, I'm thinking of adding a Vibrant resonator in that pipe. I had one in my GTI and it quieted it down very nicely.

[Hurt]

Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.

Yeah, I'm just getting a resonator after all. 500 dollars for a muffler isn't worth it. It's a 14" Vibrant-Performance Resonator, and it's only 90 dollars. The same resonator I had on my VR6 GTI. It really got rid of the VR6's signature-raspy-sound. It sounded awesome with the Vibrant/Flowmaster set up!

I'm hoping I will still be able to hear the distinct Magnaflow-and-8v sound from my GT, though. I may even end up putting on 2 14"s, if one isn't enough. I don't like being droned half to death when I'm cruising on I-91 at 3k RPM!

Anywho, I recently purchased a 2004 Jetta 2.0 Auto. It's my wife's secondary car. I'm putting on a Neuspeed S/C, no question about that. Anyone have experience with the 2.0 8v MK4 cars? I don't want it to be unreliable.. I can't decide on how to set it up. I'm thinking a 2.25" exhaust, a small cam like a 260/256, and the Neuspeed charger with the higher PSI pulley. That should keep her satisfied and really shouldn't feel that much different from her MK6 GTI in terms of power. Anyone have any insight on the MK4's best mods while retaining dd-ability?

Thanks guys.

[vacuumnoise]

Yeah, I'm just getting a resonator after all. 500 dollars for a muffler isn't worth it. It's a 14" Vibrant-Performance Resonator, and it's only 90 dollars. The same resonator I had on my VR6 GTI. It really got rid of the VR6's signature-raspy-sound. It sounded awesome with the Vibrant/Flowmaster set up!

I'm hoping I will still be able to hear the distinct Magnaflow-and-8v sound from my GT, though. I may even end up putting on 2 14"s, if one isn't enough. I don't like being droned half to death when I'm cruising on I-91 at 3k RPM!

Anywho, I recently purchased a 2004 Jetta 2.0 Auto. It's my wife's secondary car. I'm putting on a Neuspeed S/C, no question about that. Anyone have experience with the 2.0 8v MK4 cars? I don't want it to be unreliable.. I can't decide on how to set it up. I'm thinking a 2.25" exhaust, a small cam like a 260/256, and the Neuspeed charger with the higher PSI pulley. That should keep her satisfied and really shouldn't feel that much different from her MK6 GTI in terms of power. Anyone have any insight on the MK4's best mods while retaining dd-ability?

Thanks guys.

yeh Ive heard the CEL on Mk4s comes on much easier than Mk3s, anything bigger than a 260...

Not trying to thread hi-jack but:
if anyone has a TT 268/260 cam especially with lifters they want to sell, def hit me up

[Hurt]

yeh Ive heard the CEL on Mk4s comes on much easier than Mk3s, anything bigger than a 260...

Not trying to thread hi-jack but:
if anyone has a TT 268/260 cam especially with lifters they want to sell, def hit me up

Yeah, the CEL has been on since I got it. I hate MK4's. It feels like a boat compared to my MK3.

I have a 268/260 that I'm using for the MK4. If I decide to go with a smaller cam, I'll let you know.

[vacuumnoise]

^

cool, thanks

[vacuumnoise]

another weird cam on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Web-racing-c...5732b9&vxp=mtr

theyr calling it a 278 but as far as I can tell it seems a bit bigger than a 268 cam...

what do you guys think, should I pick it up??

stock springs handle it?

[Hurt]

another weird cam on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Web-racing-c...5732b9&vxp=mtr

theyr calling it a 278 but as far as I can tell it seems a bit bigger than a 268 cam...

what do you guys think, should I pick it up??

stock springs handle it?

Looks like it's slightly bigger than TT's 268* in terms of duration, same 110* lobe center and nearly the same lift. I wouldn't run it on stock springs unless it's an OBD1 cylinder head.

[vacuumnoise]

Looks like it's slightly bigger than TT's 268* in terms of duration, same 110* lobe center and nearly the same lift. I wouldn't run it on stock springs unless it's an OBD1 cylinder head.

word

.441

gotta upgrade my springs, but if I did I would probably just run the 270 or 276 cam...

I'm really edging for some more horspower!

[Hurt]

word

.441

gotta upgrade my springs, but if I did I would probably just run the 270* or 276* cam...

I'm really edging for some more horspower!

Go for the 276*. Sooo much more HP than the 270*. I have a 270* in my Corrado and it doesn't feel any different than stock until after 3k RPM, when it really takes off until 7k RPM (high power-peak due to my SRI and my camgear setting).

I also had a 270* in my wife's old MK3, and it was an automatic. Not really that big of a cam. I wouldn't bother changing valve springs for a 260* to 270* swap, but for a 276*, I'd pay the extra 200 dollars and get HD valve springs.. You'll actually use the high revving capabilities of them with the 276*.

[vacuumnoise]

Go for the 276*. Sooo much more HP than the 270*. I have a 270* in my Corrado and it doesn't feel any different than stock until after 3k RPM, when it really takes off until 7k RPM (high power-peak due to my SRI and my camgear setting).

I also had a 270* in my wife's old MK3, and it was an automatic. Not really that big of a cam. I wouldn't bother changing valve springs for a 260* to 270* swap, but for a 276*, I'd pay the extra 200 dollars and get HD valve springs.. You'll actually use the high revving capabilities of them with the 276*.

hmm, well I've heard of people running stock single springs with the 270 but it still seems frowned upon...

[Hurt]

hmm, well I've heard of people running stock single springs with the 270 but it still seems frowned upon...

It's a bad idea. Trust me.. I know AutoTech recommends the HD spring kit for OBD2 engines even with their 260/256! Do it once the right way. Here's a quote from Travis's thread about the subject.

"The lift of the stock OBDII cam is .417". Deducting the .417" lift to the installed spring height looks like this:



As you can see, the lift of the stock cam brings the spring to the edge of lift distance that's left. The coils on both the bottom and top are binding. Due to the nature of the coils, one side is more compressed than the other. One side of the spring is fulled binding, while the other side has some space left to compress. As you go with higher and higher lift, that space decreases rather quickly. For a cam with a .432" lift (260*, 268/260*, ect) the space between the middle coils is about .017". For those lazy ones that run an Autotech 270 (.449" lift), the space left between the middle coils is about .008". Add to that the higher rpms run with these larger cams and you got a recipe for disaster. Once the spring fully binds, you put excessive wear on the nose of the cam lobe which increases wear and eventual failure. "

[Hurt]

I want to try a KENT camshaft really bad.. They look pretty promising by their spec sheets.

[911_fan]

The only thing you'll get by spending $300+ on a Kent cam is having the word Kent list in you mod list in your signature. There is a reason nobody on this side of the Pond runs them. You can get the same performance with a comparable duration for half the price.

[Hurt]

The only thing you'll get by spending $300+ on a Kent cam is having the word Kent list in you mod list in your signature. There is a reason nobody on this side of the Pond runs them. You can get the same performance with a comparable duration for half the price.

Yeah.. This is why I haven't bought one.

For now, I'm satisfied with my current projects (corrado and MK4 2.0) Corrado = Autotech 270, MK4 = TT 268/260. Going to put the Neuspeed charger on the MK4 tomorrow, since I got my ECU back tonight! It was sitting on the front porch all day, literally. I didn't even notice.

[Hurt]

bump for the forum

[Alingarhs]

So I'm going to order that kit Autotech makes with the 270 cam, lifters, springs and retainers. Along with valve stem seals while I'm in there.

Question is, which cam do you think would suit my Neuspeed charger better, a 268/260 or the 270?
I was leaning towards the 270 just because it comes in the kit making everything easier. But I also heard the 268 is good for boost applications, would that really make a difference with only 6psi though? Also, should I order new valve keepers or just reuse?

[Hurt]

So I'm going to order that kit Autotech makes with the 270 cam, lifters, springs and retainers. Along with valve stem seals while I'm in there.

Question is, which cam do you think would suit my Neuspeed charger better, a 268/260 or the 270?
I was leaning towards the 270 just because it comes in the kit making everything easier. But I also heard the 268 is good for boost applications, would that really make a difference with only 6psi though? Also, should I order new valve keepers or just reuse?

The difference will be minimal running such low boost. The 270* is actually pretty good for boost. You can reuse the keepers, but they're so cheap I usually buy new ones..

If you don't want to spend the money on the HD springs/retainers that come with the Autotech kit, just buy the 268/260 and new lifters. It'll be fine with stock valve springs.

[Alingarhs]

Cool, thanks for the feedback, I ended up ordering the 268/260 just in case I ever go turbo. Here is what I got.
TT 268/260 Camshaft
Camshaft seal
Timing belt kit
Lifters (8)
Valve keepers (16)
Valve retainers (8)
Valve seats (8)
Valve stem seals (8)
HD valve springs (8)
valve cover gasket
Assembly lube

[vacuumnoise]

you dont really need the HD springs for the TT 268/260 Camshaft... but it cant hurt... GL with yr build

[Hurt]

Cool, thanks for the feedback, I ended up ordering the 268/260 just in case I ever go turbo. Here is what I got.
TT 268/260 Camshaft
Camshaft seal
Timing belt kit
Lifters (8)
Valve keepers (16)
Valve retainers (8)
Valve seats (8)
Valve stem seals (8)
HD valve springs (8)
valve cover gasket
Assembly lube

You're welcome. The 268/260 feels really good in my wife's MK4 2.0 with a Neuspeed charger with the smaller Neuspeed pulley. ~8psi feels pretty good, but it still has the stock exhaust on it because I'm waiting for my 42dd system to come in.

[Alingarhs]

Which pully? The 2.6? That's what I have, don't have a gauge in yet to see what I actually am doing but I thought the 2.6 did 1.5psi more than the 2.8 (5psi?)

Edit: I know I didn't need the HD springs, but I read somewhere that although not needed, they do help a little bit up top on the rpm's. I don't know how creditable this is, but I thought I might as well replace them just in case. Like you said, cant hurt.

[Hurt]

Which pully? The 2.6? That's what I have, don't have a gauge in yet to see what I actually am doing but I thought the 2.6 did 1.5psi more than the 2.8 (5psi?)

Edit: I know I didn't need the HD springs, but I read somewhere that although not needed, they do help a little bit up top on the rpm's. I don't know how creditable this is, but I thought I might as well replace them just in case. Like you said, cant hurt.

Yeah, the 2.6" Pulley. It's a New South match-mk4-lights-gauge, sitting on 7.5-8 PSI at WOT, automatic trans. When you floor it from a stop it spins, shifts into 2nd, the wheels keep spinning for a little and when they grip it downshifts and you go. It's pretty fun, lol. Exhaust came on UPS, I'll be installing that in a few (2.5" MBS system). The 268/260 cam in it doesn't pull past 6500 RPM, really. The S/C helps in the high-end quite a bit, though. It tricks you into thinking the car is still making power.

They [the HD springs] do help in the upper RPM. They won't be prone to binding at all with the small lift of the 268/260, but with stock springs revs past 6k things are starting to get overworked, sort of. You probably won't want to take the car past 6.5k RPM anyway, I don't think it'll make anymore power up there than at the usual peak of a cammed/turbo aba ~6000. But yeah, they wont hurt.

[Hurt]

Someone buy my 2.0 Corrado.

I got a steal on a MINT 94' Tornado Red GLS.. 4 wheel disc (non ABS!), power everything, bubble cluster (score!) and a lot more nifty stuff. Heated seats, too!!

No rot, paint is MINT, and the car only has 60k miles on it! I paid.. well, it begins with a 1, and it's 4 digits long.. Okay, it cost 1,000. That's all. It needs an exhaust system, the rear windows don't work (regulators, probably), and a clutch (driven by a teenage girl for the past 10k miles) if I do the clutch, I am going to swap in a 02a transmission, too. Or a late 16v 020.

This car will be getting a C2 turbo set up, my SRI, suspension, new interior (I hate non-bolster seats) and full exhaust.. I have to order a lot of parts. If anyone wants my Corrado, let me know