How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.

[MahTrek=]]

Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam NA 8v setup? Thanks fellas I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with.

And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.

[Quintin@USRT]

Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam NA 8v setup? Thanks fellas I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with.

And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.

i large cam would def be a compliment to our manifold. If i remember correctly we designed this manifold to hit the 3rd harmonic around 7k rpms. It also made more power than the shorter runner version.

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...roducts_id=291

[MahTrek=]]

Thanks Quintin, if you have a second could you elaborate on what 3rd harmonic means, and how it applies? (Sorry, airflow n00b here) with the big, high revving cam and worked head I plan on seeing 8 grand. If thats relevant.

[Quintin@USRT]

Essentially its positive and negative pressure waves that run up the and down the runners. They occur as the piston moves up the cylinder sending the pressure back up the runner where it bounces off the plenum and comes back. Each wave gets effectively weaker but to tune for say the first harmonic; runner length a few feet long would be needed. The 3rd harmonic would be the 3rd time the wave hits the ports/valves (around 7k rpms) and the 4th harmonic hits around 4500ish. It essentially has a sorta supercharging effect.

[Hurt]

Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam NA 8v setup? Thanks fellas I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with.

And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.

Best option for sure.

I have one on my 94' and it's all stock besides it, and it moved the powerband up considerably and it doesn't fall on it's face after 5k anymore. Not to mention the SRI sounds AMAZING.

It pulls to redline easy (6400). This is stock cam, stock exhaust, stock chip, stock everything beside the USRT SRI and a custom intake.

With my old 135whp build, it pulled to the rev limiter (7200) in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, all very, very hard. That was a 276* cam. The Coupe I built had a tt 298*, and pulled way off the written numbers on the tacho.

USRT SRI = Awesome, to say the least. Best mod (IMO) you can do for a 2.0 after you've done a nice cam and tune.

[MahTrek=]]

Again Hurt & Quintin thank you very much for the replies, I just youtubed a few videos of them they sound INCREDIBLE. Along with the performance gain it easily makes it worth the higher price tag. I'll be in touch quintin

Edit* Hurt, what are you using for a throttle cable? Also, what about the IAT sensor? Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri?

Does the stock throttle body work well with the usrt piece? Or is it recommend to deramp our stock one, or even upgrade to something bigger? Thanks guys

[Quintin@USRT]

Again Hurt & Quintin thank you very much for the replies, I just youtubed a few videos of them they sound INCREDIBLE. Along with the performance gain it easily makes it worth the higher price tag. I'll be in touch quintin

Edit* Hurt, what are you using for a throttle cable? Also, what about the IAT sensor? Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri?

Does the stock throttle body work well with the usrt piece? Or is it recommend to deramp our stock one, or even upgrade to something bigger? Thanks guys

it was designed used the stock TB. Deramping doesnt net too many benefits...but if you go bigger...say to a VR TB then things might get a little touchy. Anyway get a spare TB from a junkyard and try it out when you get the SRI

[MahTrek=]]

Sounds good man, I did more research on the mani so my tb & IAT questions were answered too getting very excited about this!

[02vwgolf]

I have a USRT longrunner in my 276 cammed 8v... and I must say its a huge improvement I had a custom "home-brew" short runner intake manifold before this manifold and I have absolutely noticed an improvement

[Hurt]

Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri?

I have. It's pretty easy. The way the manifold sets up the air filter makes it really easy to make a heatshield. I usually just use a 45* bend coupler and a piece of pipe and a cone filter, pointed sort of where the stock airbox goes. Here's a great video on how to make a fiberglass ram-air intake shield:

[Hurt]

16v trans swap (CHE 5th) done. USRT linkage in. Feels good, but the gears are so short. 4th gear at redline is around 105. Lol.
Still stuck on what this engine is going to get in terms of power. I want a good daily driver that gets good gas mileage. The GT isn't really dd-able anymore, lol.

I'm thinking a free-flowing exhaust, since the stock exhaust is almost falling off, and maybe a small cam like a 268*.

[Quintin@USRT]

16v trans swap (CHE 5th) done. USRT linkage in. Feels good, but the gears are so short. 4th gear at redline is around 105. Lol.
Still stuck on what this engine is going to get in terms of power. I want a good daily driver that gets good gas mileage. The GT isn't really dd-able anymore, lol.

I'm thinking a free-flowing exhaust, since the stock exhaust is almost falling off, and maybe a small cam like a 268*.

oh damn that's short....twss

[MahTrek=]]

Buying a 4k with a bolt kit from a good buddy who owns a shop here locally, using my 5th though. I believe I'll need a new clutch as well (still undecided there). 5th will be the same but 1-4 will be shooooort.

[Hurt]

oh damn that's short....twss

I would hope that's not what she said, but

Buying a 4k with a bolt kit from a good buddy who owns a shop here locally, using my 5th though. I believe I'll need a new clutch as well (still undecided there). 5th will be the same but 1-4 will be shooooort.

Mine is a 2y, and it's nice. Pulls to 6400 RPM fine, with the stock cam/chip/exhaust. I'm getting a GIAC chip for it and a 268* Neuspeed cam, so I'll soon be able to rev a little higher than 6400. At 7000, the gears will be a little longer and better suited. It's still bearable in the city, on the highway it isn't too bad. It's so quiet with stock exhaust, lol. I drive around in 4th at like 3k rpm, just cruising..

I think a 4k will really be unbearably short in 1-4. The higher F/D will kill it. Maybe use the ABA trans' F/D?

With my RA's on 195's at 6500 RPM:
1st- 34
2nd - 56
3rd - 83
4th - 105
5th - 149

[Hurt]

Someone sell me an exhaust for my GLS!

I want to try something different. Anyone got good suggestions for a quiet, yet nice-sounding exhaust?

I'm thinking of maybe getting a 2.5" TT system with dual resonators and swapping the muffler it comes with for a vibrant-racing one. I want this car to look near stock. It looks OEM, really.. Just a 60/40 drop with some 15" RA's. OEM+

[Alingarhs]

Hurt, have you ever had a header on with one your SC builds?
I know the best route to go is the MK4 to TT DP, but I am just curious on what results are from the headers.

I was thinking about replacing my manifold with a Raceland or Pacesetter, main reason is I took the heat shield off because of insane rattling and I am worried without it the SC might get too hot and be more prone to heat soak.

But I see that a lot of people talking you need to get a bung welded in for the 02 on the Raceland, no Idea on what needs to be done with the pacesetter's.

I also read that the Racelands mentions cat delete with the header, but that's not the route I want to go. Can they still be mated with a cat without any modifications?

[Hurt]

Hurt, have you ever had a header on with one your SC builds?
I know the best route to go is the MK4 to TT DP, but I am just curious on what results are from the headers.

I was thinking about replacing my manifold with a Raceland or Pacesetter, main reason is I took the heat shield off because of insane rattling and I am worried without it the SC might get too hot and be more prone to heat soak.

But I see that a lot of people talking you need to get a bung welded in for the 02 on the Raceland, no Idea on what needs to be done with the pacesetter's.

I also read that the Racelands mentions cat delete with the header, but that's not the route I want to go. Can they still be mated with a cat without any modifications?

Honestly, I don't know that the MK4 manifold/TT race DP is the "best". I just prefer it.

No, I've never used a header with a S/C build. I have used them in other builds, though. I don't like them because of the lack of flex joints, and most of the aftermarket headers are poor-fitting and expensive.

Pacesetter's header rots very fast from what I've heard. It's cheap, though.. 135 on Amazon. It's the cheapest route, but I don't know about their quality. They bolt up to the factory CAT.

I'm pretty sure Raceland's header bolts to the factory CAT. Their description is pretty much the same for every product.

If you're worried about heatsoak, get the Raceland header and get good quality header-wrap. Or a MK4 manifold (wrap it) and a TT 2.5" downpipe (stock one won't fit), it doesn't delete your CAT.

[Prof315]

Honestly, I don't know that the MK4 manifold/TT race DP is the "best". I just prefer it.

No, I've never used a header with a S/C build. I have used them in other builds, though. I don't like them because of the lack of flex joints, and most of the aftermarket headers are poor-fitting and expensive.

Pacesetter's header rots very fast from what I've heard. It's cheap, though.. 135 on Amazon. It's the cheapest route, but I don't know about their quality. They bolt up to the factory CAT.

I'm pretty sure Raceland's header bolts to the factory CAT. Their description is pretty much the same for every product.

If you're worried about heatsoak, get the Raceland header and get good quality header-wrap. Or a MK4 manifold (wrap it) and a TT 2.5" downpipe (stock one won't fit), it doesn't delete your CAT.

The header to get is the OBX 4-2-1 stainless. Nice piece, durable and only about $100 it's actually a chinese copy of the old Mk2 super sprint.

[Hurt]

The header to get is the OBX 4-2-1 stainless. Nice piece, durable and only about $100 it's actually a chinese copy of the old Mk2 super sprint.

The one that says for 85-93 8vs? I've seen that on eBay, Idk if I'd buy one, though. I prefer flex joints, and with my setup I need the exhaust to flex. I'm only using stage 1 motormounts, but.. Still. I've broken a OBX header that was on a VR6.. and that car only had .5 motormounts! That's one of the reasons I prefer TT's downpipes over headers.

[MahTrek=]]

I know the 4k is super short but with an 8.5k redline I think it will help some

If it really is unbearable, I'll look into using my current f/d

[Hurt]

I know the 4k is super short but with an 8.5k redline I think it will help some

If it really is unbearable, I'll look into using my current f/d

You won't need to rev it out that far. For power the best shift point for a 298* is around 7500, I think. Depends. Don't put a big cam (288*<) in a stock head.

[Quintin@USRT]

Don't put a big cam (288*<) in a stock head.

**** wouldn't fit anyway

[Prof315]

The one that says for 85-93 8vs? I've seen that on eBay, Idk if I'd buy one, though. I prefer flex joints, and with my setup I need the exhaust to flex. I'm only using stage 1 motormounts, but.. Still. I've broken a OBX header that was on a VR6.. and that car only had .5 motormounts! That's one of the reasons I prefer TT's downpipes over headers.

What I did was add a 6" flex pipe at the header outlet flange.

[Hurt]

**** wouldn't fit anyway

Lol, that's probably true.
My head is ported pretty well, and my 276* 114lca cam barely fit, lol.

What I did was add a 6" flex pipe at the header outlet flange.

That's a good idea.. why haven't I thought of this?!
275 bucks is quite a bit to pay for a TT race DP, even if it is made beautifully.

[Quintin@USRT]

Lol, that's probably true.
My head is ported pretty well, and my 276* 114lca cam barely fit, lol.

how u like it?

[AJmustDIE]

**** wouldn't fit anyway

The 276 114lc I received (back when quintin had first "revealed" it on vortex some time ago) came with the lobes unchamfered and I had to get my head machined to clear them.

[Hurt]

how u like it?

I can't really compare it to anything beside a 268/260 I had in a different car with a different kit with different mods, but..

I love it. Instant power from the S/C of course, but the cam pulls so hard from 4,000 RPM to 7,000+, the cutoff is 7200. If I don't watch the tach while I'm pulling in 2nd or 3rd, I hit the limiter. Power curve is very linear. It just goes and goes. It wants to keep going past 7200! The cam also provides a nice low end, I can drive around part throttle and it's fine shifting at 2,000 RPM. If I could use my SRI with the BBM set-up, I'd imagine it would pull to 8k RPM fine, and make power doing it. The only thing I dislike is the idle. It's choppy, and the idle is at 1000 RPM to compensate for that. That's all that bugs me.

[Quintin@USRT]

I can't really compare it to anything beside a 268/260 I had in a different car with a different kit with different mods, but..

I love it. Instant power from the S/C of course, but the cam pulls so hard from 4,000 RPM to 7,000+, the cutoff is 7200. If I don't watch the tach while I'm pulling in 2nd or 3rd, I hit the limiter. Power curve is very linear. It just goes and goes. It wants to keep going past 7200! The cam also provides a nice low end, I can drive around part throttle and it's fine shifting at 2,000 RPM. If I could use my SRI with the BBM set-up, I'd imagine it would pull to 8k RPM fine, and make power doing it. The only thing I dislike is the idle. It's choppy, and the idle is at 1000 RPM to compensate for that. That's all that bugs me.

Yea i found if you add more fuel at idle and about 900rpms smoothed it out like stock....almost.

But other than that it's exactly as you described it. that damn thing will pull to 7500+ i hit 8k once

[2.slowduo]

Someone sell me an exhaust for my GLS!

I want to try something different. Anyone got good suggestions for a quiet, yet nice-sounding exhaust?

I'm thinking of maybe getting a 2.5" TT system with dual resonators and swapping the muffler it comes with for a vibrant-racing one. I want this car to look near stock. It looks OEM, really.. Just a 60/40 drop with some 15" RA's. OEM+

I have the tt stainless with a borla on my jetta, it looks very stock
Loud under power but not droney on the highway,and it makes all the right pops and crackle on decell

Have the newspeed stainless on the gti, does not look stock with the dtm rear muffler but it sounds about stock. Very quiet

I've. Been tempted to cut off the dtm upturns but don't want to ruin this "classic" piece

[Hurt]

Yea i found if you add more fuel at idle and about 900rpms smoothed it out like stock....almost.

But other than that it's exactly as you described it. that damn thing will pull to 7500+ i hit 8k once

Yeah, I'm going to be talking with C2 soon to get my tune reburned to raise the limiter to 8,000. I'm going to bring the GT for some dyno runs soon so I can get a good camgear setting and all of that junk. I'm also considering buying BBM's forged piston set for it, if it's going to be revving over 7k I should probably be safe rather sorry!

Have the newspeed stainless on the gti, does not look stock with the dtm rear muffler but it sounds about stock. Very quiet

I've. Been tempted to cut off the dtm upturns but don't want to ruin this "classic" piece

I ordered the Neuspeed catback today, it's such a good value and quiet = . I'm hacking the DTM upturns off first thing.

[Quintin@USRT]

Yeah, I'm going to be talking with C2 soon to get my tune reburned to raise the limiter to 8,000. I'm going to bring the GT for some dyno runs soon so I can get a good camgear setting and all of that junk. I'm also considering buying BBM's forged piston set for it, if it's going to be revving over 7k I should probably be safe rather sorry!

If you need pistons and such let me see what i can do for you.

Hurtin my feelins!

Anyway PM with what you'd need.

[Hurt]

If you need pistons and such let me see what i can do for you.

Hurtin my feelins!

Anyway PM with what you'd need.

Thanks for the notion.

I'm going to take it to the dyno first to see if I'm even making power past 7k, and if so, then I'll decide what pistons I'm going to get.

[Hurt]

According to a friend's G-Tech, I'm running 13 flat 1/4's with full interior on my 225 45 16's. Score! Need to get my 60 foot down, though.. Spinning like crazy til halfway through 2nd gear.

[Quintin@USRT]

Thanks for the notion.

I'm going to take it to the dyno first to see if I'm even making power past 7k, and if so, then I'll decide what pistons I'm going to get.

[Hurt]

BBM sells MK3 chips now. I'm willing to try them out, since my GLS needs a chip. I wonder if they're better than TT or if they're just a copy?