How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful VR6
I am ready, I am
I want to buy some 4x100 15" Pininfarinas. If you have one of the few sets i've seen, please let me know.
TTT for the forum's sake!
bump for the forum
Here is a thread that has been going for a while on 8v head porting.
Good luck with that, looks like you are goin to b busy, wish i had that kinda time.
Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play
bump for the forum's sake
Haha 8v's are weird to me sooo I'm Gunna ask you what's the difference between a counterflow and a crossflow? And how do I tell if my girls cabby has hydraulic or solid lifters?
..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.
PTE 5858 @ 27 psi - 82mm Wisecos - Brute Rods - Supertech Valves w/ Gold Cat Springs - UNI Stg 3 mafless - 630cc Siemens - IECVA1 Cams - IE Adj Cam Gear - Custom Intake w/K&N - HKS SSQV BOV - 42 DD 3" TB Exhaust w/No Cat - Kinetic T3 Manifold - Tial 38mm WG - VF Mounts - Walbro 255 Inline - Fozen Boost FMIC - ECS LW Pullies - New South Power Gasket - Devils Own W/M Stg 2 - HPA SS - WOT Box - FST LW Flywheel - Nitto 555R
Worth the $100??
Im not really looking to go fast Id just like my car to be able to get out of its own way, especially on the highway.
Pebble Pushers Anonymous
Pebble Pushers Anonymous
The difference in tunes between a 91oct chip and a 93oct chip are little/none. The ABA can take a LOT of timing before it knocks and starts to pull timing.
And also, you could have two companies that make a 91oct chip, but have totally different ignition tables. Stick with the TT chip. It's a better tune. *my opinion.
Yeah, I generally stay away from any chip other than GIAC or TT. A friend of mine had a Neuspeed P-Flo chip in his mk1 rabbit aba swap, and that thing sucked down a ton of gas compared to without the chip, and the same with the Q-chip. They suck down gas! I've never really noticed TT's chips changing my MPG, personally. I've used C2 plenty of times, but I'm done dealing with rev-hang and bucking at 2k RPM. Until they fix the tune's issues, I'll be sticking to TT.
hm i would've never known c2 chip had a problem. I guess im going TT, but do you guys think the TT chip will go good with an Autotech 270 cam. I got the cam on black friday for 40% off thats why i went with autotech and not TT.
"Remember Professionals built the Titanic, Amateurs built the Ark"
Last edited by zero.; 03-28-2012 at 01:30 PM.
And the power difference from the TT chip and the C2/PEM was night and day better.
I my aba this thread is very informative
I know TT has 2 different headers, but both are so expensive I didn't bother to add them.. I've only had 1 of their headers, and personally I didn't like it. I'll update it, though.
Here's something for all the haters who think you can't get 140 BHP out of an ABA for about (or less than) 1500 bucks. For this example I will use a OBD1 2.0 Jetta.
276* cam - 180
TT exhaust - 225
TT race DP - 300
New lifters - 80
TT cam chip - 125
MK4 intake and exhaust manifold swap - about 100-150
That should be good for atleast 120whp, or about 140 at the crank. And it only costs about 1000 dollars. Cheaper if you use the forum to your advantage, and you can daily this set up easily.
I have some issues with a couple of things you wrote that I don't feel are accurate. (emboldened). In my experience, 4500rpms on a stock motor is the drop-off point in power. Dyno sheets corroborate this fact. Also, can you change this to .432"? I have no idea where you got .433" from. I realize its only .001" difference, but .433" has never been published anywhere and is a bit misleading and contradictory to any discussions out there. Also, please update my SN to 911_fan...tdogg74 doesnt exist on this site anymore. You should also link my thread on cam info as well. Sorry for being so picky, but if you are going to continuously bump an info thread like this, it needs to be as accurate as possible.
Camshaft: The cam from the factory is good for low end TQ, but not for high end power. Your engine will run out of steam at about 4500 rpm, and shifting beyond that is pointless. There are MULTIPLE options for a performance cam, but it really depends if your car is OBD1 or OBD2, and if you're willing to swap out the valve springs. If you have an OBD2 motor you are limited by the lift of the cam, unless you swap out the valve springs for HD ones, sold by TT tuning, autotech, MJM autohaus, etc. The highest duration cam I'd recommend without swapping out valvesprings in an OBD2 is 260* (max lift is .432). Anything higher, you risk valve float aka internal engine damage. If you have an OBD1, you lucked out, and can run a higher duration/lift cam (.450 max lift)! Now, there are multiple cams, all stating to do different things. I have personally found the TT 276 cam to be the best all around cam for a daily driven car. I followed 911_fan's advice, and set an Adjustable camgear to +4 advance, and it adds a significant amount of low end TQ without sacrificing HP.