How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.

[Hurt]

You should talk to him.

I asked him to look up the paperwork for what he did to the heads I've sent him (atleast 5, maybe 7..) He does good work! I'll try to get some info ASAP

[root beer]

Bumping this for the forum's sake. To a MOD: Should I bother re-posting this in the MK3 forum? It's tailored toward ABA's, and a ton of "OMG 8V FAST PLZ" threads pop up there a day. I think it'd help, but I'd rather have a mod tell me. Thanks, I really hope everyone who uses this gets useful information. If you have any ?'s, feel free to PM me or post in this thread, I check it daily.

Nah, we try to keep cross posting down. The 12v thread is in 12v tech fwiw.

[Hurt]

Nah, we try to keep cross posting down. The 12v thread is in 12v tech fwiw.

Alright, thanks, bud!

[Hurt]

TTT for the forum's sake!

[Hurt]

bump for the forum

[ny_fam]

Here is a thread that has been going for a while on 8v head porting.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ng-the-8v-head.....

[Hurt]

Here is a thread that has been going for a while on 8v head porting.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ng-the-8v-head.....

[VW MAFIA]

Good luck with that, looks like you are goin to b busy, wish i had that kinda time.

[CasuallyWreckless]

Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play

[Hurt]

Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play

Are you sure they're obd1? From what I've seen, some 1995 VW's are OBD2, but most were OBD1. If you look in an aftermarket part catalog for most aftermarket companies, 1995+ Passats were OBD2. It's tricky.

[Hurt]

bump for the forum's sake

[CasuallyWreckless]

Are you sure they're obd1? From what I've seen, some 1995 VW's are OBD2, but most were OBD1. If you look in an aftermarket part catalog for most aftermarket companies, 1995+ Passats were OBD2. It's tricky.

Nope both are def obd1 sir egr valves on both

[Hurt]

Nope both are def obd1 sir egr valves on both

Huh. VR's are wierd. Anything VR related is out of my comfort zone.
I'm more of an 8v guy. Lol.

[CasuallyWreckless]

Haha 8v's are weird to me sooo I'm Gunna ask you what's the difference between a counterflow and a crossflow? And how do I tell if my girls cabby has hydraulic or solid lifters?

[911_fan]

Haha 8v's are weird to me sooo I'm Gunna ask you what's the difference between a counterflow and a crossflow? And how do I tell if my girls cabby has hydraulic or solid lifters?

Cross-flow = in/ex ports on opposing sides of the head.
Counter-flow = in/ex ports on the same side.

8v heads from 1985 and up were hydro.

[Hurt]

Cross-flow = in/ex ports on opposing sides of the head.
Counter-flow = in/ex ports on the same side.

8v heads from 1985 and up were hydro.

Correct

[Hurt]

..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.

[GloryFreak]

..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.

Neuspeed system?

[FourEyes]

..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.

Return, repurchase.

[Hurt]

Neuspeed system?

Sorry, I meant exhaust system. 60mm (2.4") mandrel bent piping, 1 resonator, 1 mid muffler, one on the end, DTM tips, stainless steel. They sound great!

Return, repurchase.

Unfortunately, they charge a 20% restocking fee, +shipping. So I'd end up paying around 200 dollars just to return it, and not save any real money at all if I buy a new one from neuspeed because 500+ shipping is about 540.. I'm going to call them and tell them about my blunder, hopefully they'll price match. MJM is a very reasonable company, I've dealt with them in the past.

[Low Sugar]

http://www.autotech.com/product/chip...jetta-mkiii-2l

Worth the $100??

Im not really looking to go fast Id just like my car to be able to get out of its own way, especially on the highway.

[nemo1ner]

I was looking at that chip as well. My engine is 100% stock which I like, but I want to give it a slight bump.

[Hurt]

http://www.autotech.com/product/chip...jetta-mkiii-2l

Worth the $100??

Im not really looking to go fast Id just like my car to be able to get out of its own way, especially on the highway.

I was looking at that chip as well. My engine is 100% stock which I like, but I want to give it a slight bump.

Just get a TT non-cam 91 octane chip (85 bucks shipped on MJM) There is no reason to rev to 6900 on a "stock" aba, like autotech advertises it's chip tune redline to be.. You won't make any power past 5500 on an aba without a nice cam, anyway.

[Low Sugar]

Just get a TT non-cam 91 octane chip (85 bucks shipped on MJM) There is no reason to rev to 6900 on a "stock" aba, like autotech advertises it's chip tune redline to be.. You won't make any power past 5500 on an aba without a nice cam, anyway.

Excuse my ignorance to this stuff, but there isn't any gas stations around me that have 91 octane. Would that be an issue with that chip?

[911_fan]

The difference in tunes between a 91oct chip and a 93oct chip are little/none. The ABA can take a LOT of timing before it knocks and starts to pull timing.
And also, you could have two companies that make a 91oct chip, but have totally different ignition tables. Stick with the TT chip. It's a better tune. *my opinion.

[Hurt]

The difference in tunes between a 91oct chip and a 93oct chip are little/none. The ABA can take a LOT of timing before it knocks and starts to pull timing.
And also, you could have two companies that make a 91oct chip, but have totally different ignition tables. Stick with the TT chip. It's a better tune. *my opinion.

Yeah, I generally stay away from any chip other than GIAC or TT. A friend of mine had a Neuspeed P-Flo chip in his mk1 rabbit aba swap, and that thing sucked down a ton of gas compared to without the chip, and the same with the Q-chip. They suck down gas! I've never really noticed TT's chips changing my MPG, personally. I've used C2 plenty of times, but I'm done dealing with rev-hang and bucking at 2k RPM. Until they fix the tune's issues, I'll be sticking to TT.

[ELiT3]

hm i would've never known c2 chip had a problem. I guess im going TT, but do you guys think the TT chip will go good with an Autotech 270 cam. I got the cam on black friday for 40% off thats why i went with autotech and not TT.

[zero.]

Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play

This is true. My 95 ABA was OBD1 and did not have a soldered chip. Most 95 OBD1's also have the OBD2 diagnostic port too. Majority of ones that are soldered are pre 95. Also, TT has a 4-1 header like stated previously. Noticed it wasn't updated still.

[911_fan]

Yeah, I generally stay away from any chip other than GIAC or TT. A friend of mine had a Neuspeed P-Flo chip in his mk1 rabbit aba swap, and that thing sucked down a ton of gas compared to without the chip, and the same with the Q-chip. They suck down gas! I've never really noticed TT's chips changing my MPG, personally. I've used C2 plenty of times, but I'm done dealing with rev-hang and bucking at 2k RPM. Until they fix the tune's issues, I'll be sticking to TT.

Yea, Im so surprised by that thread and all those issues. I mean, i had some of those issues too, but i ALWAYS managed to get the rev hanging to go away. With every cam/SRI manifold I swapped to. Only thing that persisted was occasional stalling if I let it warm up on a cold morning.

And the power difference from the TT chip and the C2/PEM was night and day better.

[bluB5s4]

I my aba this thread is very informative

[Hurt]

hm i would've never known c2 chip had a problem. I guess im going TT, but do you guys think the TT chip will go good with an Autotech 270 cam. I got the cam on black friday for 40% off thats why i went with autotech and not TT.

Just ask TT for a chip for a 270* cam. Just because it's an AutoTech cam doesn't mean you can't get a TT chip, or even a c2 chip. (If your car is a 2000 you should consult with the MK4 forum, this thread is really tailored to MK3's)

This is true. My 95 ABA was OBD1 and did not have a soldered chip. Most 95 OBD1's also have the OBD2 diagnostic port too. Majority of ones that are soldered are pre 95. Also, TT has a 4-1 header like stated previously. Noticed it wasn't updated still.

I've noticed that too.. Some OBD1 cars are odd. I've also seen 96's with OBD1 ecu's.. Odd.

I know TT has 2 different headers, but both are so expensive I didn't bother to add them.. I've only had 1 of their headers, and personally I didn't like it. I'll update it, though.

Yea, Im so surprised by that thread and all those issues. I mean, i had some of those issues too, but i ALWAYS managed to get the rev hanging to go away. With every cam/SRI manifold I swapped to. Only thing that persisted was occasional stalling if I let it warm up on a cold morning.

And the power difference from the TT chip and the C2/PEM was night and day better.

I was too. I couldn't get my issues to go away, though. I was sick of running out to start my car in the cold mornings, getting ready, and coming out to a FREEZING car that stalled 5 minutes ago. The rev hang was annoying to say the least, I hated burning the clutch on accident. It seemed to really mess with the TB when I had a c2 270* cam chip, it didn't go away after an adaptation, either.. Now I run a 276* cam and a TT chip. I just installed USRT's SRI on my daily, and had to readapt my throttle, but TT's chip seems to deal with just about anything.. I always use 93 octane, but once I was 200 miles from home, on E, and the only gas station in a 20 square mile area had 89 at best. Didn't have a problem at all. I really tend to stick with TT's products because they do such good dyno tests/comparisons.

[Hurt]

I my aba this thread is very informative

Thanks bud
Here's something for all the haters who think you can't get 140 BHP out of an ABA for about (or less than) 1500 bucks. For this example I will use a OBD1 2.0 Jetta.
276* cam - 180
TT exhaust - 225
TT race DP - 300
New lifters - 80
TT cam chip - 125
MK4 intake and exhaust manifold swap - about 100-150
That should be good for atleast 120whp, or about 140 at the crank. And it only costs about 1000 dollars. Cheaper if you use the forum to your advantage, and you can daily this set up easily.

[Hurt]

..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.

Return, repurchase.

MJM ended up refunding the difference. to a good company!

[911_fan]

I have some issues with a couple of things you wrote that I don't feel are accurate. (emboldened). In my experience, 4500rpms on a stock motor is the drop-off point in power. Dyno sheets corroborate this fact. Also, can you change this to .432"? I have no idea where you got .433" from. I realize its only .001" difference, but .433" has never been published anywhere and is a bit misleading and contradictory to any discussions out there. Also, please update my SN to 911_fan...tdogg74 doesnt exist on this site anymore. You should also link my thread on cam info as well. Sorry for being so picky, but if you are going to continuously bump an info thread like this, it needs to be as accurate as possible.

Camshaft: The cam from the factory is good for low end TQ, but not for high end power. Your engine will run out of steam at about 4500 rpm, and shifting beyond that is pointless. There are MULTIPLE options for a performance cam, but it really depends if your car is OBD1 or OBD2, and if you're willing to swap out the valve springs. If you have an OBD2 motor you are limited by the lift of the cam, unless you swap out the valve springs for HD ones, sold by TT tuning, autotech, MJM autohaus, etc. The highest duration cam I'd recommend without swapping out valvesprings in an OBD2 is 260* (max lift is .432). Anything higher, you risk valve float aka internal engine damage. If you have an OBD1, you lucked out, and can run a higher duration/lift cam (.450 max lift)! Now, there are multiple cams, all stating to do different things. I have personally found the TT 276 cam to be the best all around cam for a daily driven car. I followed 911_fan's advice, and set an Adjustable camgear to +4 advance, and it adds a significant amount of low end TQ without sacrificing HP.

[Hurt]

I have some issues with a couple of things you wrote that I don't feel are accurate. (emboldened). In my experience, 4500rpms on a stock motor is the drop-off point in power. Dyno sheets corroborate this fact. Also, can you change this to .432"? I have no idea where you got .433" from. I realize its only .001" difference, but .433" has never been published anywhere and is a bit misleading and contradictory to any discussions out there. Also, please update my SN to 911_fan...tdogg74 doesnt exist on this site anymore. You should also link my thread on cam info as well. Sorry for being so picky, but if you are going to continuously bump an info thread like this, it needs to be as accurate as possible.

No problem, I fixed a few things, and updated a little bit.