TT RS ---> Querks (Curious if others have noticed)

[mkauzer]

Have you had drilled or slotted rotors before? I found once I installed Stoptechs on my mk1 that under very gentle braking I could definitely feel a slight pulse as the slots swept through the caliper.

That might be it. But it comes and goes, so I would think that kind of pulsing would be always present.

[neonova6]

I get break squeal every so often, also under very light breaking. Back off the break, reapply, and it goes away. I also get the break pedal vibration, very minute, and ONLY when the engine is warming up. I've not noticed it once the temp readout under the turbo guage starts registering a temperature. Not that I'm implying the two are related.

I have to agree, that the engine sounds different when not in gear and revving. From what I can tell, the waste gate is held open preventing any pressure buildup.

All in all, I still love the hell outta this car!

[mtbscoTT]

I have one quirk, a fast shift (i.e. WOT launch) to third sometimes gets a bit of synchro grind. No other gears, and only in third under hard conditions. Not enough to worry me.

[AppleChilli]

My observed quirks: In order to answer the telephone there doesnt appear to be an answer/end call button on the steering wheel. The door doesn't have a lock at intervals, so if you're on an incline the door closes back onto you. The boot should open once you press the release button. The button to open the boot requires one to hold it at least five seconds in order for it to pop. The brakes should've been at least 6 pistons. The Toyo's are a bit slippery and lose traction pretty easy. Clutch is a little light...that's about it for now.

She had her first bath today, very pleased with everything else; great package overall!

[gt2437]

My observed quirks: In order to answer the telephone there doesnt appear to be an answer/end call button on the steering wheel. The door doesn't have a lock at intervals, so if you're on an incline the door closes back onto you. The boot should open once you press the release button. The button to open the boot requires one to hold it at least five seconds in order for it to pop. The brakes should've been at least 6 pistons. The Toyo's are a bit slippery and lose traction pretty easy. Clutch is a little light...that's about it for now.

She had her first bath today, very pleased with everything else; great package overall!

The left scrolling wheel/button on the steering wheel, will answer and end calls. You don't even have to look at the NAV screen to use the BT phone, just the center info screen and the mode button, with the left scrolling wheel/button.

The boot opens with just a pull on the release. Somethings not right if its taking 5 seconds.

[joshsmith]

Mine squeal occasionally, but I don't mind it. I think it speaks to the performance of the car. Have you ever heard the brakes on a track/race car? They're ridiculously loud.

One thing I've noticed that no one has mentioned: The sound coming from the exhaust is noticeably different when the clutch pedal is fully pressed. The car idles quieter when my foot is off the clutch. But it's not the flapper, because mine isn't attached anymore. It's not a problem. It's just strange

- Jeremy -

LOL! I noticed that one when I got the car and had no idea why!! Have you already removed your flapper?? When I went to Audi a while ago they reckon the flap keeps back pressure etc and creates a vacuum or something. They thought something like that has potential to affect brakes..... Somehow..???? That part made no sense but the back pressure part does.


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[Marty]

FYI, I just had my front rotors and front pads replaced by Audi under warranty due to excessive brake squeal that I just couldn't get to go away after repeated trips to the dealer and bedding attempts. The brakes are now completely silent, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's going to last this time!

For those that are interested in hearing the severity, I made a video:

[$øK]

I have one quirk, a fast shift (i.e. WOT launch) to third sometimes gets a bit of synchro grind. No other gears, and only in third under hard conditions. Not enough to worry me.

me too here. still no clunking tho...that's weird

[32vSC]

Two things:

1.) Does ANYONE know how to turn off the g*!@#$%m F@#$%^Ig rear parking assist beeping? It can be done via the stalk/menu in my TTS, but in the RS you can only adjust volume and tone. VCDS doesn't seem to have identified the bits (yet, if any) either.

2.) For about the first 15-20 seconds after a cold start the engine idles at 1500 or so rpm. On most other cars cold start idle is 100 to 200 (thereabouts) rpm above nominal for 10s of seconds. But, not 1500+

Has anyone else noticed seemingly too-high cold start idle?

[fourtunes]

Two things:

1.) Does ANYONE know how to turn off the g*!@#$%m F@#$%^Ig rear parking assist beeping? It can be done via the stalk/menu in my TTS, but in the RS you can only adjust volume and tone. VCDS doesn't seem to have identified the bits (yet, if any) either.

2.) For about the first 15-20 seconds after a cold start the engine idles at 1500 or so rpm. On most other cars cold start idle is 100 to 200 (thereabouts) rpm above nominal for 10s of seconds. But, not 1500+

Has anyone else noticed seemingly too-high cold start idle?

I believe the initial idle at > 1000 RPM is normal.

[- Jeremy -]

Two things:

1.) Does ANYONE know how to turn off the g*!@#$%m F@#$%^Ig rear parking assist beeping? It can be done via the stalk/menu in my TTS, but in the RS you can only adjust volume and tone. VCDS doesn't seem to have identified the bits (yet, if any) either.

2.) For about the first 15-20 seconds after a cold start the engine idles at 1500 or so rpm. On most other cars cold start idle is 100 to 200 (thereabouts) rpm above nominal for 10s of seconds. But, not 1500+

Has anyone else noticed seemingly too-high cold start idle?

Mine cold idles pretty high too. Probably around 1500.

- Jeremy -

[mtbscoTT]

Mine cold idles pretty high too. Probably around 1500.

- Jeremy -

And mine's pretty loud when it's doing so with its "always on" flap mod. I live in an old historic district where the houses are pretty close together, I always wonder if I'm waking up my neighbor when I start her up early in the morning.

[32vSC]

I believe the initial idle at > 1000 RPM is normal.

Mine cold idles pretty high too. Probably around 1500.

Interesting. Good to know that the fast cold idle is normal (for N=4).

Also interesting that this, likely, indicates that the RS motor is what would be called "very cold blooded." I'm going to bet though, that the high idle is due to emission regulations rather than the old-school definition of cold-blooded.

[GordonM]

My RS had been plaqued with the low speed brake squeal from day one. Bedding the brakes only lasted a day as the next morning the squeal would be back. My dailly drive had alot of stop lights and stop signs and people in our town start stopping for these very early (100 yards) and creep to a stop. Drove me nuts.

So I went thru all the things I could think of CRC disc brake quiet, disc brake grease, sanding rotors etc, etc. Nothing worked, so I came to the conclusion that the front pad compound is too track oriented and the wrong compound for dailly driving. Since I only track the car 2 or 3 times a year and don't believe in street racing I decided to get street pads like I used in my Mk 1 TT coupe. Bought some Raybestos PGD1001M PG Plus Premium pads for a 2010 Subaru IMPREZA STI and changed out the pads. I also cut the short wear sensor harness before the main harness plug behind the brake rotor leaving 2" of wire to connect together and removed the wear sensor harness. Bedded in the brakes and the squeal is gone, you can trail brake for ever and there is no squeal EVER! Pads have good initial bite, never had them fade on spirited runs up the mountain to Lake Tahoe, and they dust less than the OEM Audi pads.

I usually use the Raybestos ST 43 track pads for the track and the two compounds work pretty well together, so I don't have to have dedicated track rotors. Although one has to run the ST 43 pads for a day after a track day to scrub off the pad material build up before putting the street pads back on.

Audi USA customer rep called and said that Audi Germany is working on a solution to the brake squeal problem and would have an answer by the end of March. I imagine it will be a brake pad compound change.

Gordon

[Marty]

My RS had been plaqued with the low speed brake squeal from day one. Bedding the brakes only lasted a day as the next morning the squeal would be back. My dailly drive had alot of stop lights and stop signs and people in our town start stopping for these very early (100 yards) and creep to a stop. Drove me nuts.

So I went thru all the things I could think of CRC disc brake quiet, disc brake grease, sanding rotors etc, etc. Nothing worked, so I came to the conclusion that the front pad compound is too track oriented and the wrong compound for dailly driving. Since I only track the car 2 or 3 times a year and don't believe in street racing I decided to get street pads like I used in my Mk 1 TT coupe. Bought some Raybestos PGD1001M PG Plus Premium pads for a 2010 Subaru WRX STI and changed out the pads. I also cut the short wear sensor harness before the main harness plug behind the brake rotor leaving 2" of wire to connect together and removed the wear sensor harness. Bedded in the brakes and the squeal is gone, you can trail brake for ever and there is no squeal EVER! Pads have good initial bite, never had them fade on spirited runs up the mountain to Lake Tahoe, and they dust less than the OEM Audi pads.

I usually use the Raybestos ST 43 track pads for the track and the two compounds work pretty well together, so I don't have to have dedicated track rotors. Although one has to run the ST 43 pads for a day after a track day to scrub off the pad material build up before putting the street pads back on.

Audi USA customer rep called and said that Audi Germany is working on a solution to the brake squeal problem and would have an answer by the end of March. I imagine it will be a brake pad compound change.

Gordon

Thanks for sharing! I agree that the issue is most likely a too-aggressive pad compound and that needs to be fixed.

I had my rotors and pads replaced, and the squealing is slowly coming back again after just a few hundred miles, and I've bedded in the pads twice.

[mageus]

Bedding the brakes only lasted a day

How did you bed the brakes? I did an aggressive bed-in the first week and never had problems since. You have to bed until they fade, then let the car sit overnight (no parking brake). These are closer to race pads than street pads. You can't do the usual '10 hard stops' thing.

[GordonM]

How did you bed the brakes?

I also did the agressive bed in as you mentioned.

With all of the experimentation that I did with chamfering the OEM pads and using disk brake quiet and brake lube and sanding the rotors with 150 grit and 220 grit, I started to see brake pad material operating temperature changes. The pads would not squeal when cold and then start squealingl at a certain temperature range as they warmed up and then stop squealing when the pad got up to temperature. They were acting like some of the other race pads I have used in the past.

My problem was that my commute to work was 6 miles on surface streets 45mph max, lots of stop lights and stop signs. With the 20 degree F outside temperature the brakes would never reach the operating temperature that the squealing would stop. By the time I got to work they were squealing so bad, it made you grit your teeth. In the afternoon when it was warmer I could get the pads up to the temperature that the squealing would stop. This is why I decided that the pads were the culprit.

This showns the wear sensor harness on the US TTRS

This is the harness section that I removed.
[

[Marty]

How did you bed the brakes? I did an aggressive bed-in the first week and never had problems since. You have to bed until they fade, then let the car sit overnight (no parking brake). These are closer to race pads than street pads. You can't do the usual '10 hard stops' thing.

I did this under the instruction of my dealer master tech. The brakes are then silent for a few days, and slowly start squealing more and more as time goes on. My new brakes are now at about the level of what my original brakes were at ~1000 miles. By 7000 miles, they were unbearable.

FYI, I just got a call from Audi Corporate stating that Audi Germany is working on an "update" that is currently in testing, and that they'd give me a call on March 30th to provide more info on when that update would be available.

As some folks have mentioned, I suspect it will be a brake pad material change...

[mageus]

The temperature change with weather makes sense. I'm in CA, so that's probably why I haven't had a problem.

I've ordered some EBC yellows for the street (use Carbotechs for the track). Cheaper than OEM, but still decent for the street. We'll see how these do when the stockers run down.

[fjork_duf]

Yeah I've noticed the wind buffeting at higher speeds. Is there any way around this? Does raising the windows ~2" really help? I'll have to test that out.

I saw another thread on quattroworld where a guy was having problems with wind buffeting at a track day.

Also I wonder if earplugs could help.

[mageus]

I can confirm that raising the windows ~2-3" does help some. Any higher than that, and the corner workers start flagging you for the windows being too high. Oh, and a helmet helps with the buffeting.

[fjork_duf]

I can confirm that raising the windows ~2-3" does help some. Any higher than that, and the corner workers start flagging you for the windows being too high. Oh, and a helmet helps with the buffeting.

I was about to start getting bent out of shape about the buffeting, but when googling I found it happens to R8 owners too. Since the TTRS is a mini R8 it seems we have to take our medicine.

[GordonM]

Brake Squeal update:
So I talked to Audi Customer service this morning and the update for different pads that was suppose to be out at the end of March will not be out until the Middle of June. Sure am glad I changed my pads without waiting for Audi to get their act together. Love these $43 Raybestos pads!!!!

Customer service was also unaware of the timing chain growl some of us have been experiencing, so I zinged them on that too. They were also unaware of any update coming for this.

Gordon

[32vSC]

I love the brake squeal: keeps folks several lengths away from the car. It is easy to modulate. I can play three different tones with the pedal. And I can make it go away with more pressure. Hell, I could probably play Mary Had a Little Lamb if I wanted to.

The brakes just need to get warm and then the squeal goes away.

I'm not even a bit surprised by it. Big, Big Big brakes on a light-ish car that never really get warm are going to squeak. They are. Going. To. Squeak. Unless you screw with the compound and trade-off noise for dust or effectiveness.

[Marty]

Brake Squeal update:
So I talked to Audi Customer service this morning and the update for different pads that was suppose to be out at the end of March will not be out until the Middle of June. Sure am glad I changed my pads without waiting for Audi to get their act together. Love these $43 Raybestos pads!!!!

Customer service was also unaware of the timing chain growl some of us have been experiencing, so I zinged them on that too. They were also unaware of any update coming for this.

Gordon

They told me the same thing.

[fourtunes]

I love the brake squeal: keeps folks several lengths away from the car. It is easy to modulate. I can play three different tones with the pedal. And I can make it go away with more pressure. Hell, I could probably play Mary Had a Little Lamb if I wanted to.

The brakes just need to get warm and then the squeal goes away.

I'm not even a bit surprised by it. Big, Big Big brakes on a light-ish car that never really get warm are going to squeak. They are. Going. To. Squeak. Unless you screw with the compound and trade-off noise for dust or effectiveness.

Strangely, the squealing breaks don't bother me much. They're a bit annoying, but at least there's a good explanation for it. I talked to someone at work recently who said his R8 V10 also squeals like a stabbed piggy when the breaks are cold. I guess it comes with the territory.

[Quisp]

I understand that some people dont consider it a quirk but the buffeting can be pretty painful and it sucks when you live in a part of the country where you an run the car without a/c or heat with the windows down for most of the year. Part of the problem is only having the two windows that open(no sunroof vent or rear vent windows) and the interior dynamics of the car. The buffeting starts around 65-70 mph and continues from there, Had the same problem in my BMW (but opening the sunroof vent fixed that) and my wifes Hyundai mini SUV will do it if only two windows are open if one of the rear winodws is open 1 inch or more then it goes away. A lot of it hs to do with the exterior aerodynamics but the interior has a lot to do with it also.
The buffeting is not a deal breaker (for me) but it was an unpleasant surprise. Going to try the 2 inch window trick to see how it works.

[Marty]

I understand that some people dont consider it a quirk but the buffeting can be pretty painful and it sucks when you live in a part of the country where you an run the car without a/c or heat with the windows down for most of the year. Part of the problem is only having the two windows that open(no sunroof vent or rear vent windows) and the interior dynamics of the car. The buffeting starts around 65-70 mph and continues from there, Had the same problem in my BMW (but opening the sunroof vent fixed that) and my wifes Hyundai mini SUV will do it if only two windows are open if one of the rear winodws is open 1 inch or more then it goes away. A lot of it hs to do with the exterior aerodynamics but the interior has a lot to do with it also.
The buffeting is not a deal breaker (for me) but it was an unpleasant surprise. Going to try the 2 inch window trick to see how it works.

The buffetting has been a big disappointment for me. On the track, it really is a bit painful.

[fourtunes]

I understand that some people dont consider it a quirk but the buffeting can be pretty painful and it sucks when you live in a part of the country where you an run the car without a/c or heat with the windows down for most of the year. Part of the problem is only having the two windows that open(no sunroof vent or rear vent windows) and the interior dynamics of the car. The buffeting starts around 65-70 mph and continues from there, Had the same problem in my BMW (but opening the sunroof vent fixed that) and my wifes Hyundai mini SUV will do it if only two windows are open if one of the rear winodws is open 1 inch or more then it goes away. A lot of it hs to do with the exterior aerodynamics but the interior has a lot to do with it also.
The buffeting is not a deal breaker (for me) but it was an unpleasant surprise. Going to try the 2 inch window trick to see how it works.

I've tried various heights, and about 2 inches work reasonably well. I usually lower the windows to where their top edge lines up with the rear interior trim now. This alleviates the buffeting enough not to be painful unless it's a windy day.

[caj1]

BTW, I love the little "prime the fuel pump" trick when starting the car...so much quicker to start once you do this.

The pump should prime when you open the drivers door, unless it's somehow different with the I5. I'd have Audi look into it.