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    Thread: MK2 Transmission removal/install

    1. 10-31-2011 08:47 AM #1
      Hi, just dropped a tranny from a 1987 Golf.. wow what a pain. I had moved the DS axle shaft out of the way, completely removed the front mount and ended up taking off the diff mount and 5th gear housing mount. It was tough getting it to drop.

      Any suggestions on smooth ways to drop the tranny and more importantly, how to install one? thanks

    2. Moderator The_Hamster's Avatar
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      10-31-2011 10:41 AM #2
      I usually remove the trans mount hardware as it sounds like you did. When you are ready to completely remove it rotate it so the diff is up, then you can unhook the PS drive flange easily and it comes off quick. That rotation is important to your sanity.

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      10-31-2011 12:20 PM #3
      I've found it easier and faster to just pull the moptor and tranny together......much easier than trying to tilt/twist/etc.

    4. Member vastxpunk's Avatar
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      10-31-2011 12:48 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by rdezsofi View Post
      I've found it easier and faster to just pull the moptor and tranny together......much easier than trying to tilt/twist/etc.
      NO WAY is it easier to pull the whole thing together.

      Do exactly as The Hamster said. Rotating the diff up makes it so the trans comes out easily.

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      10-31-2011 01:05 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by vastxpunk View Post
      NO WAY is it easier to pull the whole thing together.

      Do exactly as The Hamster said. Rotating the diff up makes it so the trans comes out easily.
      yup

      pulling both axles out all together help too, it's one little more step but prevents you from screwing them and having your balls fall out.
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      10-31-2011 02:04 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by vastxpunk View Post
      NO WAY is it easier to pull the whole thing together.

      Do exactly as The Hamster said. Rotating the diff up makes it so the trans comes out easily.
      it is when you have no ac or power steering

      i can pull my engine/trans, replace clutch, put everything back in and drive, in about 2.5 hours.

      than again sometimes im 'lazy' and do it the old fashion way as The Hamster says to do. takes longer though
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    7. Member vastxpunk's Avatar
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      10-31-2011 02:24 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by Greg_J View Post
      it is when you have no ac or power steering

      i can pull my engine/trans, replace clutch, put everything back in and drive, in about 2.5 hours.

      than again sometimes im 'lazy' and do it the old fashion way as The Hamster says to do. takes longer though
      I still don't agree personally. No wiring to disconnect, no coolant lines to open or mess with, no unbolting the exhaust, and no need to get the engine hoist out.

      If you can do all that in 2.5 hours, you should be able to change the trans in an hour and fifteen minutes. There's half as many processes to do when just pulling the trans.

      I guess that's just my opinion. Either way isn't difficult in these cars, unless your exhaust hasn't been unbolted in a while.

    8. Member vastxpunk's Avatar
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      10-31-2011 02:25 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by wantacad View Post
      prevents you from screwing them and having your balls fall out.
      I hate when my balls fall out.

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      10-31-2011 02:34 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by rdezsofi View Post
      I've found it easier and faster to just pull the moptor and tranny together......much easier than trying to tilt/twist/etc.
      Crazy? lol

      I pulled the trans all by myself this past time, twice, because I installed the wrong input shaft seal (yeah!). Sure, I had my chick come out and lift the transmission up/down (using floor jack) while I was supporting and rotating the trans from above, but that only took about what, a minute-and-a-half of her time? I'm a skinny dude too, and it wasn't very difficult for me to grab the trans from above and perform the diff rotation. Like others said, I couldn't imagine having to unclip all that wiring, remove the radiator hoses and let the coolant drain, refill the coolant... forget that. What if you no has lift... remove entire front end? No way.

      It was a breeze to just drop the tranny, to be quite honest. If this is your first time, yeah it's kind of a pain in the ass because you're hunting around for all the bolts and you may not be sure what all bolts you need to remove, and you don't want to make more work for yourself by removing bolts you don't have to... but your second transmission drop/install will go three times faster than this one!

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      10-31-2011 03:10 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by vastxpunk View Post
      I still don't agree personally. No wiring to disconnect, no coolant lines to open or mess with, no unbolting the exhaust, and no need to get the engine hoist out.

      If you can do all that in 2.5 hours, you should be able to change the trans in an hour and fifteen minutes. There's half as many processes to do when just pulling the trans.

      I guess that's just my opinion. Either way isn't difficult in these cars, unless your exhaust hasn't been unbolted in a while.
      Me and 2 friends pulled an 8v in 2 hours once, when I was 18 but that was in pick n pull on a totaled car which we didn't care about, that was cutting and smashing everything. Taking the engine out of my car with 3 guys took like 5 hours then again we were all noobs but then but still, I could not see an engine coming out in less then 4 hours with one person

    11. 11-05-2011 08:58 PM #11
      Well now that I have dropped and re-intalled the tranny, I guess it wasn't that bad if you do it right.

      what I learned:

      1) completely remove the front mount assembly
      2) completely remove the diff and 5th gear housing mounts
      3) unbolt each axle from the diff spindle
      4) just undo the DS a_arm ball joint and tie rod end and swing the DS axle out of the way (into the wheel well and hang it with a wireecoat hanger)
      5) just raise the PS axle and hold it up with a clothes hanger

      Unhook the linkage

      I supported the engine with a bar across the engine bay, also had a simple cargo strap around the tranny and over the bar to hold the tranny so I didn't have to handle the entire weight.

      It wiggles right off, then used a jack to let it down.

      Used a jack to raise it up and then tightend the strap to suspend it, it went right on. I put a couple tranny bolts in to hold it to the block and then raised the tranny high enough so the diff and 5th gear mounts could go on over the mount pedastal with no issue. Put everything else back on with no issues.

      I do recommend getting the PS axle in place with the flange before you tighten the tranny in, makes it a lot easier.

      If I had just taken the mounts off rather than trying to drop it with them on to begin with it would have cut the time and aggravation in half!! I ended up taking them off anyway.

      Not to bad to do actually.
      Last edited by Campbell; 01-08-2013 at 07:16 PM.

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      11-05-2011 09:06 PM #12
      If you unbolt that subframe "block" it gives you an inch or two of more room.
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      05-01-2012 12:32 AM #13
      Im trying to twist it so the dif is up buti have the passanger side cv still in all the bolts ore out and the trand is oose how do i get it o drop out its a wolfsburg jetta 1.8

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      05-01-2012 12:50 AM #14
      Easiest way to pull a transmission and reinstall...


      Get the car up HIGH on jackstands.

      Unbolt axles and take them OUT.

      Support the front of the motor with a motor (Jack up as high as possible)

      Remove all bolts (Starter first)

      Remove linkage and transmission wires

      Lay on your back parallel to the car rotate the transmission and pull away from the car (use your feet to support the long end)

      If you are not prepared for the physical challenge you'll spend more time on this forum whining about how hard it is, when you should be out raging on it with that strength.

      Feel free to PM if you get stuck.

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      05-01-2012 12:51 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIGa89 View Post
      Im trying to twist it so the dif is up buti have the passanger side cv still in all the bolts ore out and the trand is oose how do i get it o drop out its a wolfsburg jetta 1.8
      Take out the axles - your laziness is making you put in more effort

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      05-01-2012 01:06 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by rdezsofi View Post
      I've found it easier and faster to just pull the moptor and tranny together......much easier than trying to tilt/twist/etc.
      sure buddy
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    17. Member spoon!'s Avatar
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      05-01-2012 01:14 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIGa89 View Post
      Im trying to twist it so the dif is up buti have the passanger side cv still in all the bolts ore out and the trand is oose how do i get it o drop out its a wolfsburg jetta 1.8
      Unbolt all the 8mm triple-squares on the axle flanges, unbolt the ball joint and swing the axles out of the way. You probably left the ball joint bolted up so the axle isn't moving anywhere.

    18. Junior Member mkIIGa89's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 01:42 AM #18
      Than for your comments.... and so far all i have been informed of is that its a 8mm four square head.... that said where do i find one the guys at northern tool today looked at me like i was nuts... one cv i was able to remove wifh a torx that said im not getting clearance on the p.s of the thans. The flange where the cv bolts to is catching on the fly wheel and binding and hanging on the block before i can rotate vertical

    19. Junior Member mkIIGa89's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 01:47 AM #19
      And everythig is free struts a arms cv's front and back mounts their is a damn inch gap between them almost and i have never ad this mank problems with pulling a trans and its not my 1st or 2nd rodeo i have done this once or twice. So i can get this straight its a tripple-square 8mm i forsee a set

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      05-01-2012 02:17 AM #20
      Yes, 8mm triple square. You can buy them by the set for cheap at any auto parts place.

      Did you remove the bolts that hold the ball joint? Something tells me you didn't do this, and you're not able to swing the axle out of the way completely. There's more than enough room once you separate the ball joint from the lower control arm.

    21. Junior Member mkIIGa89's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 02:57 AM #21
      I was able to swing the cv past the a arm by jacking the motor up i i have it droped down im gonna get the right bit tomorrow and pull that cvi hope that will allow the transfer to clear but going on the past day we shall see if i still get snagged up

    22. Senior Member Mr. Knappy's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 01:22 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIGa89 View Post
      I was able to swing the cv past the a arm by jacking the motor up i i have it droped down im gonna get the right bit tomorrow and pull that cvi hope that will allow the transfer to clear but going on the past day we shall see if i still get snagged up


      Wait what? You got the CV joint removed but you're buying a tool to remove it?

      Do have a friend that can help? If you can't get it out, there is NO WAY you are getting it back in. Not a chance.

      I hate doing it on my back. My shoulders are all ****ed up and I don't have the strength anymore to push up. So what I do is put a strap around the trans making sure to have it wrap around the driver's side CV cup. Then while on my back, I have somebody lift with the strap. I also have the engine as low as possible. This allows gravity to help slightly and makes it easier to see the flange going over the flywheel. One other issue you might be having is you didn't remove the half moon shield. You'll never get it out if that's still there.

      In closing, you're screwed.

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      05-01-2012 01:33 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Knappy View Post


      Wait what? You got the CV joint removed but you're buying a tool to remove it?

      Do have a friend that can help? If you can't get it out, there is NO WAY you are getting it back in. Not a chance.

      I hate doing it on my back. My shoulders are all ****ed up and I don't have the strength anymore to push up. So what I do is put a strap around the trans making sure to have it wrap around the driver's side CV cup. Then while on my back, I have somebody lift with the strap. I also have the engine as low as possible. This allows gravity to help slightly and makes it easier to see the flange going over the flywheel. One other issue you might be having is you didn't remove the half moon shield. You'll never get it out if that's still there.

      In closing, you're screwed.
      Maybe he's in the business of creating lawn ornaments

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      05-01-2012 01:53 PM #24
      I find to reinstall I put it on a jack and position it around where it is supposed to be and then reach down from above and lift the tranny into place.

      The cv flange does get caught on the flywheel when removing. You just need to keep rotating and pulling and as stated before raging.

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    25. Junior Member mkIIGa89's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 04:24 PM #25
      Yeah snce then i have taken a trip to northern tool got the tripple- square set pulled the transmission and it went off without a hitch

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      05-02-2012 09:59 PM #26
      i pulled my trans a couple times and i will never pull just the trans again. its a hell of a lot easier and a LOT less frustrating pulling the motor/trans together. in the end, how much more do you do?

      on a VR...
      unbolt cat from dp (3 bolts)
      unhook coolant hoses (3)
      unplug T42, maf, CPS, rev switch, exciter, knock. maybe a couple more at most.
      remove intake tube

      is it REALLY that much more work? if you cant be bothered with burping coolant, you shouldnt be dropping a trans.
      coolWATER

    27. Member TheArtfulDubber's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 12:08 AM #27
      Watched a race team running a MkII at NJMP swap an O2O in 40 minutes from jack up to jack down. It really isn't hard people, no need to pull the motor.

      1. Lift the car onto stands
      2. Unbolt the driver's side ball joint at the control arm
      3. Put a jack under the engine
      4. Unbolt the axles from the flanges
      5. Unbolt the front engine mount and starter, the trans mount both from the mount itself and the mount arm from the trans housing
      6. Put a second jack under the trans
      7. Drain the trans (makes it lighter)
      8. Unbolt all the trans bolts, wires, and speedo cable
      9. Remove the second jack from under the trans and wrestle the bastard free
      Last edited by TheArtfulDubber; 05-03-2012 at 12:11 AM.

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      05-03-2012 01:51 AM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by Shtbox View Post

      is it REALLY that much more work?
      some of us have A/C and P/S. if you have a buddy who can help with a strap, like Knappy said, it's way, WAAAAAAY faster to just pull the trans.
      Quote Originally Posted by spoon! View Post
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    29. 05-08-2012 05:20 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by TheArtfulDubber View Post
      and wrestle the bastard free
      this is the problem I have been dealing with for the last two days!! Having ps and ac makes it a #*€h to do.

    30. Member Volks1470's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 07:41 AM #30
      I didn't have AC and PS in my last jetta and in no way do i see how removing the whole engine and trans makes any sense...

      Without a doubt the hardest part is the axles
      the rest is a breeze

      I usually prefer to remove the entire front assembly. Gives you lots of room to work with
      Last edited by Volks1470; 05-08-2012 at 07:50 AM.

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      09-25-2013 08:35 PM #31
      I'm removing the tranny myself at the moment.

      I only have 1 jack. And I'm doing this all on my back.

      I can't get the passenger side cv flange to clear the flywheel!! I need another 1/4 inch and it's free, but can't get it.

      What position do you put that cv flange to free the transmission?

      Should I get a puller to pull the flange?

    32. Member DocWalt's Avatar
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      09-25-2013 08:54 PM #32
      I've had lots of struggles with that flange. I've found that rotating the trans so that flange is as far up as you can get it so you can lift the trans up and over the flywheel seems to work well.
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      09-25-2013 08:58 PM #33
      Finally got it!!

      Turned the diff all the way to the top. 12 o clock position. Then wrestled the bastard free!
      Note to self: remove plastic wheel well cover and put a piece of cardboard over stomach area.

    34. Member vwabbitman's Avatar
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      09-26-2013 01:30 AM #34
      trick i found on my mk3 and mk1 was use a small bottle jack or widow maker and push the engine forward atleast an inch and twist diff up to 45-55* and the trans will literally fall off. did clutch on my mk3 3 times and mk1 2 and had trans out and in in an hour by myself. that includes replacing all seals and pressure plate.

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