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    Thread: Aftermarket Radio Problem

    1. n00b
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      11-01-2011 01:39 PM #1
      I have done my research, but there might have been a thread I missed. I have a 2006 passat value edition without steering wheel controls. I have a Mechanical Engineering degree, and I know my way around cars. I've installed countless radio's and audio systems without any problems, except this one. I purchased one the $400 dvd/navi systems off ebay.

      All went well...I purchases a sosche wire harness along with the adapter for the antenna. My battery keeps draining after a day. I read about the VW's having 2 +12v wires, and my radio does need to be powered off and on manually. I'm okay with that...the battery draining is the problem.

      I've read about the C2R-VW2, but I'm unsure if this will fix the problem. I also read about upgrading the can-bus. Which of these would be the fix to my problem before I start shelling out more for both? I'm to the point of just ripping the navi out. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
      Last edited by Asx22; 11-01-2011 at 01:42 PM. Reason: added more info

    2. Member Track5tar's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 01:44 PM #2
      Could you provide a link to the unit you bought?

      I believe the solution would be to update the canbus
      Unitronic > APR Switched from APR to UNI and never looking back
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    3. Member Bill6211789's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 01:59 PM #3
      If you had to splice into wires to connect the deck the Cr2 would be your fix, if the deck plugs in with an OEM like fitment without an additional wiring harness the the update may be ur fix.

      Like track said link to the product and we can be more helpful
      Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo Unitronic.ca, IE HPFP, 3in B&B TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC/Forge SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, KW V2 coilovers, Nuespeed 25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!

    4. n00b
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      11-01-2011 02:30 PM #4
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-B6-CC-EOS...6801c175#rpdId

      I hope the link works since it's my first time posting one...it's the $359 model on ebay. It's been over a year and a half since I purchased it, but it seem identical to this one since the have the power button on the top right. As, I recall, I returned the wiring harness. So, it is a direct plug in. I have vag-com. I'm guessing that would mean in need to upgrade the can-bus. Where could I get one, and how would I go about installing it? Price? I have thought about wiring it up to the cigarette outlet by rerouting the wires for the power supply, but i'm unsure if this would fix the problem or just create more. Thank you for all the input so far.

    5. Member Tanqueray's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 02:34 PM #5
      I've had the same problem with my 2006 value edition. I had RCD 310 installed and kept draining my battery.

      What I did was made a jumper cable from the fuse for radio and fuse for a spot that shuts off with the engine.

      I will post a picture of the inside of my fuse box today or tomorrow.

      It's a crude way of solving this problem but it works well and saves $200 ~ for a new can bus.

    6. n00b
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      11-01-2011 02:44 PM #6
      I'm okay with crude as long as it works. That's why I was thinking about taking the wires for the lighter since that turns off after ignition is removed. If you could post a picture soon, I would great appreciate possibly with a short instructions. You'd be surprised how many VW engineers are unfamiliar with this, and yes, I do live in Chattanooga. So, some of my friends are employed by them....but they don't have an idea. So, I figured I would give this a shot, and so far it seem truly helpful. thanks

    7. Member Tanqueray's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 03:22 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by Asx22 View Post
      I'm okay with crude as long as it works. That's why I was thinking about taking the wires for the lighter since that turns off after ignition is removed. If you could post a picture soon, I would great appreciate possibly with a short instructions. You'd be surprised how many VW engineers are unfamiliar with this, and yes, I do live in Chattanooga. So, some of my friends are employed by them....but they don't have an idea. So, I figured I would give this a shot, and so far it seem truly helpful. thanks
      I will take a picture tonight and write up a short instruction (although, once you see the picture of my fuse box, it's pretty self explanatory).

      Meanwhile, I will tell you what you may need to go get for this "fuse jumper cable" trick to solve your battery drain issue.

      You will need

      1) Fuse tap (Go into a local auto parts shop and they should have it) Pictured Here

      2) 10 amp and 15 amp fuses. (Actually, you only need one more 10 amp fuse but it's always good to have more fuses)

      3) 10 gauge (10 AWG) wire. (I can't remember if I've used 12 or 10 AWG, but 10 would be safer I guess)

      4) 2 Female push in fuse terminals and 1 Male push in fuse terminal. Pictured Here (Female push in terminal)

      5) Electrical tape.

      Again, I will post pictures tonight.

      Last edited by Tanqueray; 11-01-2011 at 03:27 PM.

    8. n00b
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      11-01-2011 04:10 PM #8
      Thank you so much so far. I miss the days were everything just worked with compatibility issues.

    9. Member najel's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 04:48 PM #9
      Can you post a pic or two of the headunit in the car, and maybe let us know how everything else works on it. That looks like a pretty good price for one of those.

    10. Member Track5tar's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 09:37 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Tanqueray View Post
      I've had the same problem with my 2006 value edition. I had RCD 310 installed and kept draining my battery.

      What I did was made a jumper cable from the fuse for radio and fuse for a spot that shuts off with the engine.

      I will post a picture of the inside of my fuse box today or tomorrow.

      It's a crude way of solving this problem but it works well and saves $200 ~ for a new can bus.
      That's a great fix. It's easy and cheap. The only downside to that is you won't be able to turn on the radio without a key anymore. The reason for the canbus needing an upgrade is because the newer OE(most likely replicas as well) units talk to the new canbus to allow you to turn it on with out a key.

      The older units have the feature as well but the new units and old canbus sometimes don't cooperate. And that's your issue
      Unitronic > APR Switched from APR to UNI and never looking back
      CW '10 Passat 2.0TSI: UNI Stage 2 VMR V705 19x8.5 et45 Podi Boost gauge/pod AWE DV, Turbo Outlet Pipe BSH Boost Tap BillyBoat 3" TBE BFI Stg2 Dogbone/motor mount/trans. mount KW V2 coils Forge Twintake(1st on Passat/CC) JBL W12GTi MKII HEX+CAN vagcom, Podi.ca podi free ship code: NINOSHIP, VMR | Wheels velocitymotoring.com, VolksBHAN in September

    11. n00b
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      11-01-2011 10:21 PM #11
      I view as not being able to turn the radio on without a key a plus since that definitely means the battery won't be getting drained. The simplest fix is usually the best along with being the cheapest. My old radio messed up so I was just looking for an alternative to buying one from the dealer, and this replica ended up being the best deal...well, apart from this issue haha. I'm just waiting to hear back from Tanquery to attempt the same procedure since it seems like he's truly done his homework on this issue. I'll keep you guys updated if everything works out. I'll definitely be owing someone a

    12. Member MP3DUB's Avatar
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      11-02-2011 04:52 AM #12
      The PAC C2R-VW2 is designed to adapt a standard head unit to Canbus, so if the unit you have plugs in directly, it sounds like it's a shortcoming of the HU to communicate properly with the car. Can you upgrade the canbus in the car? I'd imagine upgrading (replacing) the central electronics module in the car would probably require other systems to get updated as well.
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    13. Member Tanqueray's Avatar
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      11-03-2011 03:24 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by MP3DUB View Post
      The PAC C2R-VW2 is designed to adapt a standard head unit to Canbus, so if the unit you have plugs in directly, it sounds like it's a shortcoming of the HU to communicate properly with the car. Can you upgrade the canbus in the car? I'd imagine upgrading (replacing) the central electronics module in the car would probably require other systems to get updated as well.
      Yeah, the correct way of upgrading the headunit is to upgrade the can bus to a newer version. However, it costs $200 and up to get a new can bus and you need to use vag-com tool to program everything into the new can bus.


      As for uploading the pictures, I haven't forgotten about you!! It's just that my car has been in the shop to get a new wheel bearing put in and I haven't had the chance to snap some shots of the car before going into the dealers. I'm getting the car back at the end of the day today so I will take some pictures tonight with my cell phone.

      And, Yes, you can't turn on the headunit without the key using this "jumper cable" method. When I did the jumper cable trick, I sat inside the car for about 10 min with all the doors locked to see if the headunit was still making "tick tick tick" noise. If you sit inside your car with the new headunit and without this trick or new can bus, your headunit will make "tick tick tick" noise after the car doors are locked. I believe this is what's draining our 2006 passat value edition batteries.

      Try it out without the jumper cable and then with the jumper cable. You should no longer hear the "tick tick tick" if everything is done right.

      In fact, I'm getting off my lab right now to pick up my car. I will snap some shots as soon as I'm home, I promise!

      Last edited by Tanqueray; 11-03-2011 at 03:29 PM.

    14. n00b
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      11-03-2011 04:12 PM #14
      It's just my luck that my battery died again, and I kinda got mad...so, I'm leaving it, and driving another car. There is no rush since i'm not putting any miles on it on the bright side haha, I never heard a ticking sound when i turned if off, but then again I never thought about trying to listen for one. I guess my expertise is the wheel bearing....took it too the stealership, and they wanted $1300 for the wheel bearing, and the cv joint covers for the front. $200 for new wheel bearing, and 2 entire half axles with warranties, and 4 hours of work later...it was a breeze. Had I know...I could have given you the pics for that since i still had them on my phone. Just replacing the wheel bearing is a breeze...the only thing you would have needed was a triple square bit and a 30something mm to loosen the half drive shaft.

      Thanks, and hope the car is riding smooth since I know about that annoying sound rolling down the street. It's one of the perks I found out with having 19's and potholes.

    15. Member Tanqueray's Avatar
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      11-03-2011 08:20 PM #15
      Here we go!

      1) First picture is showing the entire set up. The orientation of the picture is as you would see when standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay fuse box. The fuse spot that's at the top is the fuse spot for the radio, which should have a 15 amp fuse. Make sure you plug in the male terminal into the RIGHT side of the fuse spot.


      2) Showing the radio fuse spot with the male terminal plugged into the RIGHT side of the spot.


      3) Now zooming into the left bottom fuse spot on the first picture. Those three 10 amp fuse spots are those that shut off with the ignition. I'm using the right most fuse spot because the fuse tap only fits in that spot because the red cable coming out of the fuse tap MUST be on the LEFT side (BOTTOM side when looking at the fuse box from the front of the car) of the fuse spot.


      4) Now showing the 15 fuse that connects the two separate jumper cables coming from the two different fuse spots. I was told this 15 amp in the middle is pointless since the 10 amp fuses pushed into the fuse tap should blow before the middle 15 amp fuse. You can try extending the wire from the fuse tap to the RIGHT side of the radio fuse spot, simply with the wire without the 15 amp.


      Make sure you plug in two 10 amp fuses into the slots of the fuse tap. I tried plugging in only one 10 amp fuse into the fuse tap spot and that caused check engine light to come on.

      Also, make sure you unplug the battery before pulling out any fuse because that also caused check engine light.

      If anything is unclear in anyway, let me know, I will even draw a simply diagram for you. Sorry it took so long.

      Last edited by Tanqueray; 11-03-2011 at 08:22 PM.

    16. n00b
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      11-05-2011 05:32 PM #16
      Thank you so much The battery hasn't drained in the past few days. I still can't drive it since I got a flat tire...just my luck.

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