FAQ 1.8t - Vag Com Tips and Tricks

[groggory]

Hey everyone,

Time for another FAQ. This one will be in regards to 1.8t specific vag com tips and tricks.

I'm not a vag com expert, but I know many of you are. Please pop in with tidbits you know and I'll sort them into a readable FAQ. I'll also be linking to this FAQ from my main FAQ.

Thanks,

Greg

Organization of the topic...

If you want to learn how to do anything with the vag com the obvious answer is to go to the vag com manual on ross-tech.com and read it. It's all there (it is, really!). But that's not my goal here. My goal is to make an FAQ that is built around people's intended purpose in using the vag com to achieve something. So let's build this thread around achievements.

Some ideas for achievements

• How do I read codes?
• How do I determine optimal shift points
  Read this
• How do I log data?
  
  Note: In order to have a log that will be valid, you will need to see at least a 3rd gear wide open throttle run from about 2500rpm until redline. Any lifting of the throttle during the run will result in inaccurate A/F numbers for the purpose of our evaluation.
  
  Official Manual
  Data logging guide @ Audizine
• How do I align my DBW throttle body?
  

  Procedure for performing a Throttle Body Alignment on DBW Cars using KWP-1281:
  (Check to see if the engine speaks KWP-1281 by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen Some examples of KWP-1281 engine controllers are 2000+ Golf/GTI/Jetta/New Beetle/Audit TT 1.8T)
  
  Turn the key on but do not start the car.
  
  [Select]
  [01 - Engine]
  [Measuring Blocks - 08]
  Group 060
  [Go!]
  [Switch to basic settings]
  Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
  [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.
  
  Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!
  
  Procedure for performing a Throttle Body Alignment on DBW Cars using KWP-2089:
  (Check to see if the engine speaks KWP- 2089 by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen Some examples of KWP-2089 engine controllers are 2002+ Audi A4, 2002+ VW Passat, and Touareg)
  
  Turn the key on but do not start the car.
  
  [Select]
  [01 - Engine]
  [Basic Settings - 04]
  Group 060
  [Go!]
  It should say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen.
  Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn on Basic Settings.
  It should now say "Basic Settings: ON" on the top of your screen.
  Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switched basic settings on. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
  Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn off Basic Settings.
  It should now say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen
  Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.
  
  Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

• How do I align my DBC throttle body?
• What are measuring blocks? Why do some people call them channels?
  Measuring blocks and channels can be used in place of each other.
• What are some of the more common measuring blocks?
  Ross-Tech - All Measuring Blocks
  

  Channel 1: Lambda Correction
  
  This is a fuel correction table used by the computer when it senses the car richening and leaning from the programmed air/fuel tables. The numbers will be displayed as a percentage starting from 0% indicating NO fuel correction is needed. This means the car is doing what it has been asked to do. No fuel is having to be added or removed to maintain harmony. The computer can correct for these rich and lean conditions up to 25% or so. Note that seeing numbers higher than 0 does not necessarily mean your car is running dangerously rich or lean just because of a little correction. Positive numbers displayed indicate fuel is having to be added to compensate for lean conditions. Negative numbers indicate fuel is having to be removed to compensate for a richer condition. The lower the numbers the better. Numbers upwards of 20 indicate some real problems that bear much closer attention. Remember that lean is your ultimate enemy. Note: This channel can not be substituted for channel 31 which displays the actual air/fuel ratio. This channel displays the deviance or the correction from the a/f that is requested, but if the incorrect air/fuel is requested by the programming than one could still be running an unsafe air/fuel ratio and the computer would not correct for it. To determine the actual a/f that is being requested and achieved you would defer to channel 31. To determine if the vehicle is having to remove or add fuel to achieve that a/f you would rely on this channel.
  
  Channel 2: Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
  
  RPM | Load (%) | Inj On Time (ms) | Mass Flow (g/s)
  rpm | load | inj.on.time | air.mass.flow
  
  To convert RPM to Available Injector Time:
  i.available.time = 120000 / RPM
  
  To calculate Injector % duty cycle:
  i.dutycycle = (ms * rpm)/1200
  or equivalently...
  i.dutycycle = 100 * ms / Available Injector Time
  
  To convert to mass of injected fuel (a little complicated):
  Note: I pulled this from the ross-tech worksheet 'air_fuel_EXAMPLE.xls'
  

  float fuel.mass = 0
  
  IF (inj.on.time > .8){
  
  IF (inj.on.time < i.available.time){
  
  fuel.mass = (inj.on.time-.34) * .003528333
  
  }
  ELSE {
  
  fuel.mass = (i.available.time - .34) * .003528333
  
  }
  ELSE
  
  fuel.mass = 0

  To convert to AFR:
  Note: I pulled this from the ross-tech worksheet 'air_fuel_EXAMPLE.xls'
  

  Float AFR = 0 
  
  IF ( fuel.mass > 0 ){
  
  afr = air.mass.flow / (RPM/30) / fuel.mass
  
  }

  
  
  
  This channel measures the grams per second or airflow taken into account by the MAF sensor. Input I have collected from tuners suggest that this is not a direct measure and depends on other sensors, so programming may be able to affect the g/s independent of changes to actual airflow. Nevertheless, while this may not be a reading that can completely state the airflow your car is taking in, it can provide a good estimate. This is a great log to look at if you suspect a common failure, the dying MAF sensor. On a chipped car one would expect MAF numbers to increase linearly as the car approaches redline. Your highest numbers will be seen at or near redline and are likely to be in the neighborhood of 160-180 g/s. Low numbers at redline such as 120 g/s are a good indicator your MAF is on the way out. Codes may not be thrown at this point. Terribly low or NO readings means she is dead.
  
  Channel 4: Intake Air Temperatures
  
  This channel displays the coolant temperature of the car and in the last column the intake air temperatures of the car. The intake air temperature sensor probe is located in the intake manifold just after the throttle body assembly. This sensor will measure the temperature in degrees Celsius of the air after it has passed through the intercoolers and is preparing to enter the motor to mix with the fuel. Unfortunately this channel is not ideal to be used to measure ultimate intercooler efficiency because this would require two probes to be installed on the vehicle, one to measure pre-intercooled air and another to measure the air post intercooler such as the case with this sensor we are dealing with for channel 4. On the other hand, being able to measure the post intercooled intake air temperatures will at least give us a general idea of the adequacy of the intercooling abilities as well as yet another heads up on the possibility of other problems with the car that would cause increased air temps post turbo compressor and intercoolers. Ideally the intake air should be as cool as possible, perhaps remaining at or below ambient temps. The intercoolers are designed to make use of the air flowing over the car to cool the intake air so it may be common to see temps begin to rise after a spirited driving regimen while the car is back at idle. Watching those temps rise while idling and then observing how quickly they once again reduce as the car goes underway gives some insight into the recovery rates of the intercoolers. In adddition, you may want to observe the temps througout a 3rd gear wide open throttle (WOT) run to see if the temps remain cool and stable. If the temps start to rise too high, this may be an indicator that an intercooler upgrade would be of benefit or a change in the state of the tune of the car is in order.
  
  Channel 20: Ignition Knock Control-Timing Retard for Each Cylinder
  
  cyl 1 timing retard | cyl 2 timing retard | cyl 3 timing retard | cyl 4 timing retard
  
  This channel is very straight forward. You should see a field of 0s everywhere with a few possible spikes in retard up to 6 degrees retard. The number 0 in each of the cylinder boxes indicates NO timing retard is taking place. This means no timing is having to be removed by the computer as it senses knock. Now, what if you see some random numbers like "1.5" and "3" every once in awhile? This should be fine. If you were a tweaker, ideally you would want to find that point where you are able to use the most timing without triggering problems. Since most people do not mess with timing adjustments, we want to see as close to zero as possible though. Timing retard of greater than "6" would have me worried and I would want some further investigation and adjustments made. Running overly aggresssive timing will result in lower power (BTDC is adjusted down based on knock activity in channel 20) and is a major player in engine destruction.
  
  Examples:
  
  CAR RUNNING TOO MUCH TIMING
  
  RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 CYL 4
  2500 0 0 0 0
  2750 0 0 0 0
  3000 0 0 0 0
  3250 3 0 1.5 4
  3500 3 3 4 4
  3750 4 6 6 6
  4000 3 0 3 4
  4250 6 6 6 6
  4500 6 6 6 6
  4750 6 4 6 4
  5000 8 6 8 4
  5250 2 8 6 8
  5500 6 8 8 6
  5750 8 4 6 6
  6000 6 6 6 4
  6250 8 8 8 8
  6500 8 6 6 6
  6750 6 6 6 6
  
  
  CAR RUNNING AGGRESSIVE TIMING (performance tuned)
  
  RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 CYL 4 Retard
  2500 0 0 0 0
  2750 0 0 0 0
  3000 0 0 0 0
  3250 0 0 0 0
  3500 0 1.5 0 0
  3750 3 0 0 1.5
  4000 0 0 3 0
  4250 1.5 1.5 3 3
  4500 3 3 3 3
  4750 1.5 3 1.5 1.5
  5000 3 3 6 3
  5250 0 1.5 3 0
  5500 3 3 1.5 1.5
  5750 3 4 3 1.5
  6000 1.5 3 1.5 4
  6250 3 3 3 3
  6500 4 3 3 3
  6750 1.5 3 1.5 3
  
  CAR RUNNING VERY SAFE TIMING
  
  RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 Cyl 4 Retard
  2500 0 0 0 0
  2750 0 0 0 0
  3000 0 0 0 0
  3250 0 0 0 0
  3500 0 0 0 0
  3750 0 0 0 1.5
  4000 0 0 0 0
  4250 0 0 0 0
  4500 0 0 0 0
  4750 1.5 0 0 0
  5000 0 0 0 0
  5250 0 1.5 0 0
  5500 0 0 0 0
  5750 0 0 0 0
  6000 0 0 0 0
  6250 0 0 0 0
  6500 0 0 0 0
  6750 0 0 0 0
  
  Channel 31: Lambda Reading or A/F Ratio
  
  Lambda Factor (actual) | Lambda Factor (Requested) | Bin Bits | Bin Bits
  
  This value is particularly important to be viewed and interpreted only when the car is under full throttle input as lifting up on the throttle will result in funky numbers. Take your log in third gear (or higher if your local authorities will allow) from 2500rpm or so until redline. The values you will see are: 1 = 14.7:1 ratio, .85 = 12.5:1 ratio, .75 = 11:1 ratio. As you have probably figured, simply multiply the lambda value by 14.7 to obtain the ratio. A car that runs 14:1 (lambda value of about .95) all the way up to redline on increased boost is running a bit lean. Conversely, a car that is running 10:1 (lambda value of about .70) from idle to redline is running a bit rich. Remember that lean is your ultimate enemy. Running too lean for too long will spell disaster for the motor. Ideally you would like to see the A/F pass linearly from the factory 14.7:1 at idle towards 13:1 in the mid rpms (3500rpm or so) to at least 12:1 at redline (NOTE: New FSI platforms are running approximately 10.5:1 at WOT). This would show a car that is getting good fuel mileage under easy driving, but richens up nicely as you wind it out under full throttle to redline. This would make you feel at ease driving the car under high load conditions at high speeds (freeway cruising at 120mph) or using the car for frequent track days.
  
  
  Example of manifold injection performance tuned a/f ratio readings: (NOTE: New FSI will request richer mixtures than this such as Lambda = .75 up top):
  
  RPM Lambda
  2500 .99
  2750 .95
  3000 .95
  3250 .95
  3500 .90
  3750 .90
  4000 .90
  4250 .85
  4500 .85
  4750 .85
  5000 .85
  5250 .85
  5500 .85
  5750 .85
  6000 .80
  6250 .80
  6500 .80
  6750 .80
  
  Block 032 - Oxygen Sensor Control Learned Values
  
  - Go to Block 032. Field 1 represents the fuel trim at idle (additive) and Field 2 represents the fuel trim at part load (multiplicative), i.e., while driving. The value should be between -10 and +10% (negative indicates the engine is running rich and positive indicates the engine is running lean). If the value is close to +25% (which is the upper limit), it usually means that the MAF is bad. If the value is somewhere betweeen +10 and +25%, it could mean that the pre-cat oxygen sensor is bad, there is a leak in the intake or that the MAF is on it's way out. The value I found for my car (VR6), which has a new 2.0 MAF and new oxygen sensors is +1.6%.
  
  Channel 34: Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT)
  ...most of our cars don't have EGT probes built in...
  
  Pretty straight forward here and a great channel to use to give you the heads up that other things are going wrong. This monitors the exhaust gas temperatures of the car. You want to see what the limits are here and it will take some beating on the car to find it. When the car is still warming up, your readings may not accurately reflect just how high these temps can get. Take your car out for some spirited full boost runs, then start logging in the normal 3rd gear WOT manner. Exhaust gas temperatures at 900 degrees Celsius and below are common for our engines when heavily boosted. This sensor appears to be only accurate up to 999 degrees Celsius or so. If you see readings creeping up this high, you have a great indicator that something is not right on your car and your engine is not happy with you. Running too high of temps for too long will spell disaster.
  
  Channel 115: Requested Boost and Actual Boost
  
  RPM | Load % | Boost Request (mbar) | Boost Actual (mbar)
  
  Note: To convert these numbers to PSI use the formula [ (mbar - 1060) * 0.0145037738 ]
  
  Note2: The '1060' is assuming you're roughly at sea level. With the engine idling look at what the reading is. That is the atmospheric pressure is at your location. Use this number
  
  This is a very helpful channel for diagnosing boost leaks, trying to figure out why your car went into limp mode, and seeing if the software or hardware (electronic or manual boost controllers) are doing what they should be. This channel displays the boost requested by the computer (requested boost) in the first column and the boost actually made by the turbo (actual boost) in the second column. The readings you will see here can be misleading. First, you should know that the numbers you will see are not yet corrected for atmospheric pressure (about 1040mbar at sea level). The atmospheric pressure seen at the boost sensor is tough to estimate with complete precision, but I have found that subtracting 1000mbar from the numbers gets you close enough to actual boost unless you are living at 20,000 feet above sea level. The next thing you have probably noticed about these numbers are that they are displayed in mbar instead of psi like we are all used to. Well, this won't be a problem thanks to the metric system. 1000mbar = 1 bar and 1 bar = 14.5psi. There you have it.
  
  So, can we all figure out what boost level in psi this car is requesting and making at 3000rpm?
  
  RPM Requested Boost Actual Boost
  2500...2100...1800
  2750...2200...1950
  3000...2200...2250
  3250...2200...2200
  3500...2200...2100
  
  The correct answer is:
  
  The computer is requesting 1.2 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 17.4psi.
  
  The turbo is boosting 1.25 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 18.1psi.
  
  So why are the above numbers important to us other than acting as a boost guage to entertain us? Well, as you can imagine, if you had a boost leak you would have a car that is requesting the correct boost but you would see very little in the actual boost column. In the case that you had just installed your new little boost controller or N75 valve you could do some logging to find that your actual boost was far exceeding your computers' requested boost numbers causing your car to go into limp mode due to it's sensing an "overboost condition. For those of us who dare to run a turbo that was not designed specifically for the software they are using, this is a great way to see why it is not working out for you. For example, the boost maps on a K03 will show the ECU requesting max boost at around 3000rpms (this is a small turbo that makes its boost low in the rpm range). Now if you were to throw on a Garrett gt28r or T28 turbo or even larger you would see that the computer will still request the max boost at 3000rpm, but the turbo is not capable of making it's max boost until closer to 3800rpm leaving you with an "underboost" condition.
  
  NOTE: The sensor will only measure up to 2540mbar including atmospheric pressure. This means that if you are running more than 1.5bar or 21.75psi of boost this sensor will not measure beyond it. Both values will show maxed out at 2540mbar.

• New car keys
• New cluster
• I want to use water/ meth. What data do I need to collect to tune for water/ meth? How do i collect that data? How do I read it? What's it mean? How can I use this data to improve my water/meth system?
• My car is bucking and feels like it's misfiring. How do I use vag com to figure out why this is happening? What cylinders are misfiring? What are my fuel trims? What is my AFR? What else should I check?
• I want to squeeze more power out of my car. How can I advance timing safely? What do I need to know? How do I read it, etc.
• I want to put in aftermarket seats. They do not have airbags in them (like OEM seats). How do I disable the airbags?
  

  Check for local regulations before performing any deactivation/reactivation. For example, Germany requires that this must be checked by an authorized test center and entry made in the vehicle documents.
  
  This information is shared for persons working on cars and need to temporarily disable the airbags, or others with a need to do so (e.g. frequently carrying a small child in the front passenger seat). The airbags are there for safety, I recommend that they normally be enabled.
  
  Note: this description is based on using VAG-COM from Ross-Tech and having prior experience using it. If using anything else you will have to adapt the instructions.
  
  1) determine if your car can do this. Use VAG-COM (or equivalent) to access the airbag controller. Look at the Component box in the upper right corner. In the middle of the string you should see 'VWx' where x is a number. This number must be 5 or higher. Anything lower requires a special resistance kit installation (1J0 998 521). An exception to this is VW3 with part number 1J0 909 609. This controller does not require the resistance connector.
  
  2) Click on 10-Adaptation
  
  3) Click up for the channel number to get to channel 01. This is the passenger front airbag channel. The value is 0 (zero) for 'enabled'. Click the up arrow to make it a '1'. Click 'Save' and confirm the prompt. This will disable that airbag.
  
  For the other airbags, disabling them is a matter of choosing a different channel.
  1 - passenger front
  2 - driver front (steering wheel)
  3 - passenger side (seat airbag)
  4 - driver side
  5 - passenger belt tensioner
  6 - driver belt tensioner
  7 - passenger head
  8 - driver head
  
  Enabling the airbag is just a matter of performing the same steps but decrementing the channel value from 1 to 0.
  
  When an airbag is disabled, the airbag light will light on the cluster for the normal 4 seconds when you first turn the starter key to the on position, then additionally flash for 12 seconds.

[groggory]

Testing the MAF, o2 Sensors, and Catalytic Converter

In order to test your MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter, check out the following blocks in the "Engine" control module with your VAG-COM. Blocks 002, 030, 032 and 033 are done in "Measuring Blocks" while blocks 036, 034 and 046 are done in "Basic Settings". Let me know if you have any questions about how to run the tests. (NOTE: The following tests are MKIV VR6 specific. If you have a 1.8T or 2.0 engine, the procedure from running the automated tests is slightly different. For a 1.8T engine, see this THREAD for instructions on how to initiate the tests. I'm not positive about the initiation procedure with a 2.0 engine, but from what I've found, with an AEG engine you manually raise the engine speed to between 1800 and 2200 RPMs, and with the AVH and AZG engines, you derpress the accelerator to the WOT (wide open throttle) position to raise the engine speed to ~2000 RPMs.

Block 002 - Load Registration

- Check the MAF airflow reading at idle. Make sure the car is running and warmed up and the A/C is off. Go to Block 002 and look in Field 4. The value at idle should be between 1 and 25 g/s. If it's lower than 1 g/s, then there is probably a leak in the intake tubing between the MAF and manifold.

Block 030 - Oxygen Sensor Regulation

- Go to Block 030. Field 1 is a three-digit binary code which gives the status of the pre-cat oxygen sensor. Field 2 is the same thing but for the post-cat oxygen sensor. The digits indicate whether or not the sensor heater is working and whether or not the oxygen sensor control is operational and active. The value should fluctuate between 111 (heater on) and 011 (heater off). The last two digits can also fluctuate between '1' and '0', but should be predominantly '1'.

Block 032 - Oxygen Sensor Control Learned Values

- Go to Block 032. Field 1 represents the fuel trim at idle (additive) and Field 2 represents the fuel trim at part load (multiplicative), i.e., while driving. The value should be between -10 and +10% (negative indicates the engine is running rich and positive indicates the engine is running lean). If the value is close to +25% (which is the upper limit), it usually means that the MAF is bad. If the value is somewhere betweeen +10 and +25%, it could mean that the pre-cat oxygen sensor is bad, there is a leak in the intake or that the MAF is on it's way out. The value I found for my car (VR6), which has a new 2.0 MAF and new oxygen sensors is +1.6%.

Block 033 - Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control

- Go to Block 033. The value in Field 1 represents the pre-cat oxygen sensor control. The value should fluctuate at least 2% in the -10 to +10% range.

Block 036 - Post-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control

- Go to Block 036 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is post-cat sensor voltage. It must fluctuate slightly between 0 and 1V. Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S2 OK' (sensor is good) or 'B1-S2 NOT OK' (sensor is bad) after the test is finished. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 034 - Aging of Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor

Update for 1.8t
You'll need to run the O2 sensor test in Block 034 before you run the cat test in Block 046.

To get the tests to initiate and run with a 1.8T engine, do the following:

AWD, AWW - Manually raise engine speed to between 1800 and 2200 RPMs and hold (use a stick or something similar to hold it there steady).

AWP - Step on brake pedal and hold. Next, depress the accelerator fully to the WOT (wide open throttle) position and hold.

Other than the different procedures to get the tests to initiate, everything else should be the same as the VR6 tests.

Gary

- Go to Block 034 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is the engine speed. Field 2 is the catalytic converter temp. Field 3 is the value which tells you how aged the sensor is (not sure what it's called). Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S1 OK' or 'B1-S1 NOT OK' after the test is finished. The aging value must be above 0.80. The value for a new sensor is 1.99. The value will decrease as the sensor ages. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 046 - Catalytic Converter

NOTE: The test in Block 034 must be done just before this test or it will NOT initiate!

- Go to Block 046 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to start the automated cat. test (last approx. 100 secs - the cat needs to be warmed up above a certain threshold for an accurate reading - the threshold is usually 400°C). The engine RPMs (Field 1) should raise to around 1400. Field 2 is the cat. temp. This will also rise during the test. Field 3 is the cat. conversion efficiency. If the cat is good, the value should be below 0.50 at the end of the test. Field 4 will indicate if the cat is good (CAT B1 - OK) or bad (CAT B1 - NOT OK). Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

[groggory]

Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM) (function 03)

The Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM) is part of the electrical check. The following components and systems are checked via Output DTM:
- Speedometer
- Tachometer
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge
- Fuel gauge
- Brake system warning lamp
- Seat belt warning lamp
- Buzzer
- All liquid quartz displays (LCD): odometer, multi-function indicator (MFI) or digital clock & selector lever position display (automatic transmission)
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) & low coolant indicator warning lamp
- Brake pad wear warning lamp (where applicable)
- Fuel reserve warning lamp
- Oil pressure warning lamp

- If a malfunction is determined when performing Output DTM, exchange instrument cluster.
- If no malfunction is determined when performing Output DTM, check wiring and connections to instrument cluster using wiring diagram.

Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM), initiating


NOTE:
- Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM) cannot be initiated, or will be interrupted if engine is running or vehicle is moving.
- Use the -C- button to exit the test sequence at any time.


- Connect scan tool VAG 1551, select operating mode 1 "Rapid data transfer", switch on ignition and enter address word 17 "instrument cluster".
- Press -Q- button to confirm input.
- Press -> button until "Select function"is shown in display.

Indicated on display:


Rapid data transfer HELP
Select function XX


- Press buttons -0- and -3- to select "Output Diagnostic Test Mode" function 03.

Indicated on display


Rapid data transfer Q
03 - Output Diagnostic Test Mode


- Press -Q- button to confirm input.

Indicated on display

Rapid data transfer ->
Analog display


After pressing the -Q- button, the following instrument functional checks are carried out simultaneously on VDO instrument clusters and sequentially on Motometer instrument clusters (press -> button to advance through test sequence):
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Gauge needle moves over complete display range
- Tachometer needle moves over complete display range
- Speedometer needle moves over complete display range
- Fuel gauge needle moves over complete display range

After sweep of display ranges, the following fixed values are displayed:

Coolant temperature gauge:90 °C
Tachometer: 3000 rpm
Speedometer: 100 km/h (62mph)
Fuel gauge: 1/2

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
Combi instrument warning lamp test


The warning lamps for
- Brake system (low brake fluid level, ABS inoperative)
- Coolant temperature/low coolant level indicator
- Brake pad wear (where applicable) 1)
- Fuel reserve
- Oil pressure
- Low washer fluid level (where applicable) 1)

are activated and remain constantly lit.

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
Seat belt warning lamp - K19


The Seat Belt Warning Light -K19- 1) lights up.

1) Instrument cluster must be coded accordingly in order for these warning/indicator lights to function.

Applications:
vehicles 05.99 > 05.00
vehicles 05.00 > See: Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Programming and Relearning > Instrument Cluster From 05.00, Coding (Function 07)

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
Signal


The buzzer/chime is activated: a warning tone sounds in intervals.

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
Segment test


All segments of LCD display in speedometer and tachometer are activated and become visible.

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
Coolant, excessive temp test


Instrument cluster VDO:

Safety cut-off (A/C compressor cut-off- is activated approx. 5 seconds later (vehicles with A/C only)

No indication is given in instrument cluster!

Instrument cluster MMO:

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) warning lamp lights and warning sound is given.

Safety cut-off (A/C compressor cut-off is activated approx. 5 seconds later (vehicles with A/C only)

- Press -> button.

Indicated on display:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
END


- Press -> button.

Indicated on display, instrument cluster MMO:


Output Diagnostic Test Mode ->
END


Indicated on display, instrument cluster VDO:


Function is unknown or ->
cannot be carried out at the moment


End Output Diagnostic Test Mode for VDO instrument clusters by pressing -> button.

All actual values are displayed again.

Indicated on display:


Rapid data transfer HELP
Select function XX


- Press buttons -0- and -6- to select function 06, "End Output".

Indicated on display:


Rapid data transfer Q
06 - End Output


- Press -Q- button to confirm input.

Indicated on display:


Rapid data transfer Help
Enter address word XX


The tester is now in basic function again.

[groggory]

Post 4

[groggory]

Updated. Thanks for the help so far. Please go back and delete your posts to clean up the thread.

[groggory]

Updated to include details of blocks

[groggory]

To measure Timing Advance with Timing Pull factored in, log block 003

[groggory]

Added some neat tricks to block 002