Big turbo build- take two

[DougLoBue]

Noah- I'm using the thicker one that Ed recommends. Pretty sure it's one thick layer of copper and two gaskets outside of it.

I haven't checked the cam seals thanks for the idea... That makes sense cause I had them out recently but I did use new ones when replaced. Am I supposed to use sealant there?

I just got home from mothers day shenanigans. I'm gonna sober up a little and try to get this pressure tester out. I do have a backup 12 pack for when failure occurs!

[DougLoBue]

Okay so this is how you get a stuck ****ty compression tester out.

Step one: buy beer, smoke and grill meat. I did none of the cooking, just the eating and drinking.





Step two: buy more beer, long 12" drill bit set.



This is what we're working with:

Hose broke off:



This is left stuck in spark plug hole about 5" down:



Drilled holes, cut socket, ratchet + extension = no more stuckness

[Audiguy84]

ya there is supposed to be sealant on the corners on the of the ledges.

[DougLoBue]

ya there is supposed to be sealant on the corners on the of the ledges.

Thanks! I wonder if I can pop that large cam cap off and slide the seals out/apply sealant without pulling the TB off again? I'm gonna give it a try but TB takes 10 minutes. Pulling the head could have been hours- glad ya spotted that.

[PLAYED TT]

Wow that looks like it was a pita. Thank god for beer

[Audiguy84]

Hey I work on BMW's which ALL leak oil.. I would start with removing the TB cover and inspect the cam gear area, also I know this might sound wierd but also check the area of the cam tensioner chain, leaks can migrate from one side of the engine to the other making it look like its leaking somewhere else when it isn't

[DougLoBue]

Audiguy84-- you were right. The hall sender cam seal was leaking badly. I removed it and it wasn't damaged so just put some sealant on it and bolted it all back together. Car ran tonight and ripped it around the neighborhood a little. Guess I'll pull the hall sender housing off and check it in a couple of days.

gracias amigo!

[01ttgt28]

Audiguy84-- you were right. The hall sender cam seal was leaking badly. I removed it and it wasn't damaged so just put some sealant on it and bolted it all back together. Car ran tonight and ripped it around the neighborhood a little. Guess I'll pull the hall sender housing off and check it in a couple of days.

gracias amigo!

Your lucky I thought you had to remove the head.I hope you don't have any more problems

[Audiguy84]

I'm glad I could be helpful to you. I bet that took a huge weight off your chest huh.

[DougLoBue]

Note:

Running the car with the MAF currently unplugged, it's about 400awhp is starting to hint and the necessity for a front LSD. Around very small bends my inside tire likes to spin through 3rd gear acceleration.

So what should I save for- Haldex Blue/Orange or front LSD. Remember the car is daily driven so I'm not sure about the Orange and Haldex longevity.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

I'd say go for the haldex controller for two reasons:

1) that inside wheel spin is more likely the related to the tire being unloaded. The EDL does a pretty decent job in the front, unless it's not working properly due to a sensor malfunction.

2) with front spin and a performance tuned controller, most of that spin will be aggressively transferred to the rear for some tail action

[Marcus_Aurelius]

...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.

[DeckManDubs]

...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.

x2

Love my Comp unit! So much more stable under full threshold braking.

[DougLoBue]

...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.

Me too but the concern of mine is running the Haldex all the time night shorten the lifespan?

Also my car doesn't have ESP/EDL/ASR- no traction control at all from the factory.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Me too but the concern of mine is running the Haldex all the time night shorten the lifespan?

Also my car doesn't have ESP/EDL/ASR- no traction control at all from the factory.

Disregard that concern because the controller is not engaging the rear more than the OEM in the majority of driving conditions.

I know you don't have ESP and ASR but I tought all TT, even early ones had EDL standard?

[DougLoBue]

Well it would stay engaged under braking ?

Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?

I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Well it would stay engaged under braking ?

Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?

I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.

It would only stay engaged under braking, providing that it was active prior to the braking input. Trolling around at regular speed (not sure how much of that you do lately ) and getting on your brakes would not, all of the sudden, engage the rear.

What the competion unit does is keep it from disengaging, like the stock and blue unit does, if you were transferring power to the rear and decided to go on the brakes. There are several benefit to that, including increased engine braking, stability since the car isn't unsettled with the sudden rear disengagement, and many more like the ability to throttle steer the car through all 3 phases.

Yeah, it would be smart to go for a performance controller before the diff upgrade.

[DeckManDubs]

Well it would stay engaged under braking ?

Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?

I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.

6-10k is my normal fluid change interval. Perhaps excessive, but the fluid is cheap when compared to a new controller/pump. It seems as when the fluid gets excessively beaten up it causes the brushes in the pump to wear out faster.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

6-10k is my normal fluid change interval. Perhaps excessive, but the fluid is cheap when compared to a new controller/pump. It seems as when the fluid gets excessively beaten up it causes the brushes in the pump to wear out faster.

The service interval would depend on how much one manage to get rear engagement and how long you stay on it (creating heat and wear). Someone like Doug may need a 5k interval, someone like me a 30k interval, while everybody else would be somewhere in between these two extremes

[DougLoBue]

Trolling around at regular speed (not sure how much of that you do lately )

3rd & 4th gear 30psi pulls down Rt. 110 count as normal driving.

You ever see people on that road in the morning? They are crazy- I'm just trying to get away from them!

But seriously the benefits of the Orange controller have always sounded appealing. I'd probably just increase my fluid change intervals to something like every 6 months. In other news I need to get this DV setup... Ordering parts tomorrow.

[DeckManDubs]

In other news I need to get this DV setup... Ordering parts tomorrow.

Do it. So much better. Group B sounds are worth it alone

[PLAYED TT]

Do it. So much better. Group B sounds are worth it alone

Ok now I want to hear one in action.....it may not look pretty but if it sounds like a group b car then I'm all in

[DougLoBue]

So I snapped the damn helicoil off my dogbone bolt again. Screw helicoils- I'm going with a stainless steel TimeSert insert.

I'm pretty sure the bolt is M10 x 1.5 - can someone confirm? Anyone know how deep the threads go? IIRC it's about 30mm or so.

ETKA online seems to be down or I'd confirm

[Marcus_Aurelius]

.....it may not look pretty but if it sounds like a group b car then I'm all in

You mean ... it may not look cute

Maybe Doug can post a picture of it after I did the mods and the polishing. IMO the finished look is decent for a part that goes under the hood, but you can always find a can of bright pink

[20v master]

So I snapped the damn helicoil off my dogbone bolt again. Screw helicoils- I'm going with a stainless steel TimeSert insert.

I'm pretty sure the bolt is M10 x 1.5 - can someone confirm? Anyone know how deep the threads go? IIRC it's about 30mm or so.

ETKA online seems to be down or I'd confirm

Just be a man about it and tap up to a larger bolt. I've had to do this before, and don't trust helicoils in super critical places.

[PLAYED TT]

You mean ... it may not look cute

Maybe Doug can post a picture of it after I did the mods and the polishing. IMO the finished look is decent for a part that goes under the hood, but you can always find a can of bright pink

Polished is always good or powder coated pink

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Polished is always good or powder coated pink

Although I have PC them before at low temp, it is not wise to bring a rubber diaphragm to 200 degrees for 25 minutes. Spray paint or rock it polished, although it may not be as cute...

[DougLoBue]

I just ordered 2.5" and 1.25" silicone for the charge pipe:



The Intake side will have to be custom fabricated still. Can't find 1.35" aluminum tube.


Max's valve:

[DeckManDubs]

I just ordered 2.5" and 1.25" silicone for the charge pipe:



The Intake side will have to be custom fabricated still. Can't find 1.35" aluminum tube.


Max's valve:

Get some 1.375 tubing. The .025" should not give you much of an issue when it comes to getting the rubber fitting over it.

[DougLoBue]

Get some 1.375 tubing. The .025" should not give you much of an issue when it comes to getting the rubber fitting over it.

Where from? I'm going to try and drop by a local machine shop during lunch to see if they have anything. I'm dying to get this DV in and change a few things in the tune.

[DeckManDubs]

Where from? I'm going to try and drop by a local machine shop during lunch to see if they have anything. I'm dying to get this DV in and change a few things in the tune.

www.mcmaster.com

Search this number 89965K412

Multipurpose Aluminum Tubing 1-3/8" OD, 1.277" ID, .049" Wall Thickness, 3'L

[DougLoBue]

Okay- time for a professional paint job. Seems like someone might be doing me a favor.

Need wild color suggestions. I'm thinking sick tones of blue. Any ideas?

[PLAYED TT]

Brown or cream

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Brown or cream

We are going to have to protect Doug from you until he has decided on his new color

You have wet dreams of a cream or brown TT with pink wheels ... the rest of us have nightmares about it!

[PLAYED TT]

Bahahahaha