50 minutes later and the head is off the car.
time to go to NYC for NYE. The piece of **** car will have to wait till monday.
Back out there. Got head bolts and a new head gasket.
After pulling the head last week I decided to hunt down my electrical problems. I replaced a coil pack harness on this harness during my motor install and it seems that the ground for the oil level sensor runs to the main harness then back up to the coil pack harness.
I'd also suspect the Tach pulls signal from some line on this harness too. I've found the oil level sensor one. Next up is the tach and head/turbo re-install.
Nice to know three out of the four issues are on their way to being solved. Now I just need to find a WG center-ring I dropped on the subframe and the head gets reinstalled.
Did I mention it's 25 degrees out and I ran out of (double )
Also all of the silicone hoses I ordered came in. Might be able to install everything correctly this time.
Thanks and as long as you enjoy what you build- that's what matters. Nobody to swap the grille with yet, I'm just going to pick up an extra I think.
Pic right before the head goes on. Now without studs I can slide the whole assembly in and out all bolted together. I'm pretty excited about that!
With that said, it's 2am and time to quit. Real job time at 8, boo
Last edited by Doooglasss; 01-05-2012 at 03:08 AM.
Little status update:
Something is funky with my head. There are inserts that the head bolts sit on that are a different size than other 1.8T heads. When trying to use stock bolts my head decided it would shave down the threads on the top of the bolt. I just got my digital caliper back and plan on taking measurements & photos later.
Before figuring this out we went through a bunch of headaches: Swapping in three new headgaskets and two sets of OEM bolts (spending a couple hundred bucks)- I finally ordered new ARP studs.
Sidenote: ARP won't warranty their products unless you have the build number off the side of the box.
Entire car is back together as of last night (minus the battery). Tonight we should be firing it up for the second time. I have hopes that I have fixed the oil light issue and a couple of ideas on how to diagnose & fix the tach. - Bad cluster connection, missing ground loop like the oil light or bad cluster.
I oil'd the AC compressor on Big Phil's recommendation to fix the squealing and Ed fixed my intercooler pipe after I mangled it because I wasn't thinking. If all issues are fixed I just need to fix my ProSport Wideband gauge and that's it.
I'll update later.
So I assume the block can take the longer bolt but the issue with my head appeared to be with the fitting in the head inserts. Tony at FFE stuck my bolts through a bare AEB head and the worked fine- so that's why I think my head is weird, I have zero luck or I'm retarded. No comments Noah
Last edited by Doooglasss; 01-09-2012 at 04:20 PM.
Okay. She runs!
Alternator squeal is all gone
Valvetrain noise is normal again
Oil light & tach still don't work
Wideband gauge/sensor still obviously have issues
The base tune is pretty spot on. Low idle. Dead on AFR with low correction
Clutch doesn't chatter like crazy at idle (yet maybe)
The car is cooling down now after a heat cycle. Preparing for ARP re-torque procedure to 80 ft/lbs. Dash and cluster are already out to be swapped for trouble shooting. Regardless if I figure that out or not I'll probably take it around the block a few times tonight.
Not a problem Jaymo!
Re-torqued head studs- didn't snap any
Swapped clusters- I don't have any wiring issues, I purchased a bad used cluster
Put 6 gentle miles on the car - I couldn't be happier.
Oh and I have to mention. Eurodyne > Unitronic any day of the week.
I come to a stop and my car doesn't rev-hunt, bog down or stall. Acceleration out of boost is smooth. I cannot comment further as of now but so far I'm impressed.
Last edited by Doooglasss; 01-10-2012 at 12:52 AM.
Issues: accessory belt falls off and rides outside of tensioner. Brand new tensioner and belt didn't help- anyone ever seen this before??
Good news: Car is fully together and the tuning process has begun. Short of engine covers, catch can and new valve cover & coilpack adapters.
The tensioner issue turned out to be my mistake...
There is a small bracket for the hard water pipe to bolt to. I had it between the tensioner and the Acc. bracket, it belonged on the outside of the tensioner. Opps!
I think I need a new wideband sensor for both my gauge and possibly the car as well even though it only has about 3 weeks of use on it. For whatever reason Maestro gets stuck reading lead 4.0 Lambra on my logs most of the time and since my WB gauge sensor isn't working I'm totally blind.