Sorry guys- just got back from a ski trip in Colorado.
Last week I replaced the WB sensor and Max and me did a few log & learn runs. The WB cured Maestro not reading the AFR, however, we were having a strange problem where the car makes power up until 5k correctly then pretty much nothing until 6k and then pulls like a freight train to 7k. In that drop off (5-6k) it has perfect AFR's and holds 20psi.
Spoke to Max last night and we're going to schedule some more time to figure it out now that I'm back.
There was a code related to the crankshaft position sensor that popped up...
Took it out, cleaned it off and reinstalled. The car runs perfectly- no hesitations under boost. My AFR's need to be fine tuned but that is just a mater of time.
I'm using a ball and spring MBC. It's a dual stage controller with an electronic solenoid - I wanted to be able to switch between normal (20psi) and high boost (35 psi?) on the fly.
It's the deluxe unit by boost valve: http://www.boostvalve.com/pricelist.html
What map are you using to adjust part throttle fueling? "power enrichment"? I'm seeing rich numbers at part throttle and even 02 correction at idle. I'd like to have as little 02 correction as possible.
New excel sheet with the car working correctly, posted in the Maestro help thread
Before I figured that out, I looked at the ID1000's datasheet on Ed's advice. Turns out at 3bar FPR they only run at 900cc. At first I re-tuned for that and it worked better. Then I read this thread, specifically this paragraph:
Found that after a 30 minute drive to work my 032 multiplicative corrections were at 7% so I added 7% to my injector constant and ended up with a near perfect running car with close to 0 o2 corrections under full load and below 10 while cruising. Adding that 7% to the constant got me to the ~850cc injectors. Note: As the injector constant increases, that symbolizes a smaller injector.Originally Posted by MmmBoost;
Now before making any further progress I really have to get an adjustable FPR and get these things running 4bar of pressure on the dot which should make 1000cc @ 14volts (which is my voltage).
Over the next couple of days I'll be trying to understand which fuel tables Maestro is referencing and when. There are two to my knowledge, however, in the past with the wrong injector constant I couldn't get one of them to be active. I will try again now though. I do have the car part throttle and cruising up to 3,200 rpms between 14-15 AFR. This is making my car a 25mpg + city driving car . I've gotten 200 miles to half a tank and about 2/3's of those I was beating the hell out of this thing (7.5k RPM pulls all day long) and no highway miles to speak of.
My cluster MPH & Gas gauge not working turned out to be a fuse. I did replace the speed sensor though so just $80 wasted and a new sensor. Opps, I'll live. The gas gauge is still optipmistic by about an 1/8th of a tank I think. I'll soon find out because I'm going to run it dry with a spare tank in the car later this week.
Swapped Magnaflow mufflers from a chambered to a straight through with packing. Makes the car much quieter, however, LOUDER under WOT. I have to visit Force Fed to have the muffler, resonator and Eurojet tip finally welded up.
Ordered all Fragola lines and fittings to replace the rubber.
Found a transmission fluid leak to be coming from the drain plug. I'll be grabbing MT-90 or Royal Purple today and do a flush tonight.
Future steps: get adjustable FPR & Fragola lines installed. Retune for 1000cc on pump. Get 02 corrections in-line through adjusting injector constant & battery compensation voltage (injector fine tuning). Call Max and switch to E85. Rape souls on the dyno.
Last edited by DougLoBue; 02-08-2012 at 11:05 AM.
Last Friday I drove to Force Fed and Ed welded on a new muffler and tip for me. I swapped from a Magnaflow chambered to a straight through with packing. The car is still too loud but MUCH more liveable. It's gonna get a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator (still straight through). Shouldn't loose power, I just want to loose the highway cruising drone. Right now accelerating isn't bad and crusing just needs a few DB's lowered- but full throttle is even louder than before- it sounds like straight open wastegate.
Also on my way there I snapped the nut & stud off my shifter at the trans side with one mean shift I guess? Who knows. Either way I pulled that whole mechanism out of the transmission and I should be able to drill and tap it on the drill press at work tomorrow. Be up and running again by Wednesday night I hope.
Here are some photos. One is before I aligned the exhaust tip, but it's the only good one I really have in the light. The tip sits centered perfectly now.
Also got my fuel pressure gauge. Regulator is at FFE, just waiting on a few fittings to do this all correctly.
Looks fun nice gauge I love getting new parts in its like Christmas when I'm opening the boxes.
Hey Doug you seen these yet I just ordered them u think their any good???
I wanted to buy those but I've sworn to this commitment of never taking my subframe off again! I'm not sure how much of a difference they make but $50 and getting rid of some rubber sounds real good to me.
I've been interested in a camber plate for awhile. I don't want to totally sacrifice ride quality but do want to get rid of our terrible design. Been looking at these since they are by Kmac and their bushings have held up really well in the rear of my car...
i will chime in about thoes sub frame bushings from the r32 world and what people have had to say about them.... they dont do all that much but make your car vibrate more. comming form someone who has has solid metal mounts in thier R its not comfortable. would i put them in my car... yes, probbly... is it worth the cash. no. haha but thats my 2 cents.
Fuel system is all together. Fragola everything except one 45' fitting I didn't have- that will have to be fixed later. Headlight needed some trimming, after the photos I filled it in with epoxy. Coolant resivour was pushed a little towards the motor to fit the fuel pump correctly.
I just got my shift stalk back from my job. They machined down the gear so no more need for a concave nut. They drilled and tapped it for an M6 bolt, I was told that M8 would have left too little wall thickness and could compromise the gears strength. Came out perfectly- now lets see if it holds up.
Now I just need to get rid of that red coolant line
A nice tweak would be a heatshield for that stuff, between it and the coldpipe. Or, maybe even shorten the fuel feed line and move the pump and FPR back (so the FPR sits between the PS res and the fender). Maybe angle the gauge up 45* so you can read better, and still easily adjust the FPR
Sorry, I'm OCD, I'll shut up if you want me to
Audi TT mk1 FAQ ███ TT is officially on the ground but awaiting a new master cylinder setup, the Forester needs a little love but dailys well...
Nothing actually needs mounting brackets. That's how tight it all is!
Their alot cheaper
I think that's the same as the SPC kit.
$80/side on summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPS-81340/
-The res. I was considering having a friend weld up at work. I'd just need to cut the metal and tell them how I want it mangled together.