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    Thread: 2005 Passat 1.8 Rough Idle / Misfire Please Help

    1. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      11-21-2011 10:38 PM #1
      I have a 2005 VW passat with 160,000 miles on it. If I start the car it idles great for about 1min but I hear a suction noise coming from the passanger side of the car somewere near the turbo and air filter. After the 1min idle the sound stops then the engine starts to idle very poorly and misfires and the check engine light flashes. If I give the car gass then the check engine light stops fasing and the engine runs a lot better but still not quite right. What I have done so far from reading other threads:

      Replaced all four coil packs (Which Ive done a few times before)
      Replaced the sparks plugs (with NGK double platnium plugs)
      Replaced the purge valve (on top of the air filter)
      Replaced coolant temp sensor (on the backside of the engine near the firewall)
      Replace the crankcase vent valve (on top of the engine near the firewall)
      Replave the crankcase breather hose (on top of the oil cooler under the intake)
      Cleaned the throttle body.
      Cleaned the MAF sensor.
      Took off the intake and clean it. (It had a thin film of oil inside it)
      Inspected every PVC hose and componants.
      Checked all the check valves.
      Took of the Fuel rail and cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the O-Rings

      The crankcase vent valve was leaking and the crankcase breather hose was broken in two pieces. I thought for sure that the busted crankcase breather hose would have fix it but it didnt.

      I ran the OBD-II codes.
      Here are the codes before I replaced the parts listed above.

      P0171
      P0300
      P0301
      P0302
      P0303
      P0304
      P0444

      After I replaced the parts I now have the codes below:

      P0300
      P0301
      P0302
      P0304

      I changed the new coil pack around, erased the codes, drove it about 5 miles and got the same codes.

      I unplugged upstream O2 sensor and the car ran exactly the same. Im wondering if it may we the problem as it has 160,000 miles on it.

      I am curious if my problem is a faulty catalitic converter, O2 Sensor, or wiring harness for the coil packs. Any advice on how to check these parts as they are all $$$. If you have another idea of what I should check that would be great too.


      Thanks in advance.

    2. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      12-04-2011 08:06 PM #2
      Over 50 people have looked at this thread and not 1 reply. Some please give me an opinion. I really need to get this crappy passat running again for my wife.
      Last edited by Tsabadlk; 12-05-2011 at 10:12 AM.

    3. 12-04-2011 10:47 PM #3
      http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes

      Look up the codes for What to test/check
      Canadian Immo 2 and 3 defeat service, PM for more information.
      Vag-Com Scanning available in London area, Hex+Can.

    4. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      12-05-2011 11:24 AM #4
      Thanks Ill give that a try. A friend of mine has a Jetta that had real bad throttle responce and he got the random cylinder pisfire code 0p300. He took his Jetta to VW as it was under warranty and they change the alternator and it fixed the problem. He said that since my passat was "drive by wire" that I should check the alternator and see if that may be the problem. Im going to check it today and see if it is pushing out 90amps as it should be. Ill will post back the results for everyone else to see as well.

    5. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      12-08-2011 08:38 PM #5
      The Alternaor check out good. Does anyone else have any ideas?

    6. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      12-20-2011 03:41 PM #6
      So I took the car to a VW dealer and let them spend 2 hours on it. They thought it may be a check valve so I let them replace it and it did not fix the problem. They dont know what it is and want to spend 2 more hours on it. I told them that if a VW dealing cant figure out what is wrong with a VW in 2 hours then Im not going to give them more $$$ to keep trying. Please someone give me something to check on this thing.

    7. n00b
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      2K 1.8T Beetle; '03 exploder;'70 GMC PU; '66 T-bird; '60 Electra; '53 Chevy PU
      01-07-2012 03:49 PM #7
      My 2K Beetle 1.8T is experiencing this. Have read a lot and tested and checked swapped coil packs, replaced coil packs and plugs ohmed out the harness. one thing I can not locate and have read in several forms could cause this is the FSU igntion control module. Have read that this is incorporated in the coil packs, but I have a Part #(4D0 905 351) and my local store has it. My Haynes repair manual says nothing about this module . Does this exisit on this engine / car and where would it be located?????

    8. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-09-2012 12:43 PM #8
      I believe the FSU igntion control module is the same thing as a coil pack just a different name for it.

    9. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-09-2012 12:44 PM #9
      If you pull your spark plugs are they black?

    10. n00b
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      2K 1.8T Beetle; '03 exploder;'70 GMC PU; '66 T-bird; '60 Electra; '53 Chevy PU
      01-10-2012 06:28 PM #10
      I talked to a good VW tech today, He advised to unplug your Mass Air Flow Sensor w/ the car running, if it straightens out, replace your Mass Air Flow Sensor.

    11. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-11-2012 11:58 AM #11
      Thanks for the tip. I tried that and the car ran the same..

    12. n00b
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      2002 Passat 1.8T, 2000 Jetta TDI, 2004 Jetta TDI
      01-11-2012 12:50 PM #12
      Timing ok?

      Bad gas?

      leak in intake?

      clogged air filter?

      clogged fuel filter?

      any frayed wires to the injectors or coil packs?

      No codes for cps, tps, or other sensors so I guess we can rule those out.

      Dunno, I guess you should take a good hard look at your timing belt. When was it last changed?

    13. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-11-2012 05:48 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by zanzabar888 View Post
      Timing ok?

      Bad gas?

      leak in intake?

      clogged air filter?

      clogged fuel filter?

      any frayed wires to the injectors or coil packs?

      No codes for cps, tps, or other sensors so I guess we can rule those out.

      Dunno, I guess you should take a good hard look at your timing belt. When was it last changed?
      Gas is good I just filled it up again.
      I cleaned the intake.
      Replaced the air filter and fuel filter.
      Replaced all 4 coil packs.
      Injector wires and coil wires look fine.

      So that brings me to the timing belt. It was replaces at 105,000 miles but I pulled the timing belt cover and there is a lot of brown dust...?? Not sure why there is brown dust under the cover but the timing belt still looks really good. I have heard from one guy on the forum that his timing belt boke and he did a vlave job and put a new belt on then had simulat issues and he found out that one cam was 1 tooth off and when he corrected that it fixed his problem but I dont see how the timing could have slipped one tooth one its own with out the belt being replaced recently.

    14. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-11-2012 05:51 PM #14
      Also its wierd that the car runs great for 1 min on a cold start. Then after 1 min it starts misfiring..... There has to be something that changes after 1 min of the engine being started cold but I dont know what it is. I thought it may be the temprature sensor so I replaced that but no change.

      Any opinions on if a knock senor could be to blame. If so where it it located and how do you check it?

    15. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 10:43 PM #15
      there is a 90deg hose at the airbox (rubber) that goes from the hard plastic pipe to the rear side of the airbox that usually cracks. It has a crimp style clamp on the plastic line side and a screw clamp on the other side. In 04/05 the assembly line worker overtightened the screw clamp and slit the hose. common problem. check that hose
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      04 Jetta Wagon 2.slow------>Family man now

    16. 01-13-2012 03:31 AM #16
      It sounds to me like it has to do with your sai system, possibly a stuck/leaking combi valve!

    17. Junior Member
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      1999 audi A4 quattro 1.8t
      01-13-2012 10:17 AM #17
      this happend to my audi i dont know if its the same but i di everything you did and it ended up being my ICM.


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    18. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-13-2012 12:25 PM #18
      I will check that hose on the airbox. Does my car have an ICM? 2005 VW passat 1.8 turbo (B5). If so where is it located. Ive never seen it and Ive been all up in the engine bay. Also what is the SAI system? Is the SAI system the same as the PCV system?

    19. 01-13-2012 09:48 PM #19
      SAI is the modern version of an egr system, on your car it involves an electric air pump, and an electronically controlled air valve on the rear of the cylinder head, the SAI system only operates on cold starts such as after sitting over night and operates for approx 60 seconds and then shuts off.

    20. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 10:04 PM #20
      05 does not have a ICM (on 97-00 1.8t engines on airbox)
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      04 Jetta Wagon 2.slow------>Family man now

    21. 01-13-2012 11:25 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Slimjimmn View Post
      05 does not have a ICM (on 97-00 1.8t engines on airbox)
      2000 does not have ICM either, basically if it has the SAI system or drive by wire it doesnt have the seperate ICM.

    22. Junior Member
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      2005 VW Passat 1.8T
      01-18-2012 12:56 PM #22
      I pulled the Combi Valve. (Which sucked to do) I teseted it with a vacume pump and it is opening like it should. I checked the 90 degree hose at the airbox and its in good shape as well. Someone else told me that the camshaft position sensor may have gone bad so I pulled it and it looks ok but didnt know how to test it so I bought one on Ebay for $15. It should be here in a few days so I will put it on and let you know the results. Apparently the magnet in the sensor can become demagnitized and tell the ECU wrong information. We will see if thats my problem or not.

      I replaced the fuel filter a couple of weeks ago and it was stoped up a pretty good bit but it still did not fix the problem. Does anyone know if there is another inline filter somewhere that I could replace. My book didnt mention another one but I have read in the forums that there is anotherone but have not seen were it is located.

    23. 01-18-2012 04:59 PM #23
      There is a filter/screen on the end of the fuel pump in the tank. Have you tried any dry gas or fuel additive yet? maybe you have water in your tank. I would like to see what happens if you unplug/remove the fuse for your sai pump (the fuse is in the ecu box outside). For that matter, does your sai pump work? do you hear it come on during the first start of the day when standing outside your car? it should sound like a small hand held vacuum cleaner motor/dremel tool running, but it usually will only come on if the surrounding air temperature is in the 40's.

    24. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      01-18-2012 09:05 PM #24
      if you hear a sucking sound its a vacuum leak.

      p0171 is system lean b1
      p0300 random misfire
      p0301 cyl 1 mis
      p0302 cyl 2 mis
      p0303 cyl 3 mis
      p0304 cyl 4 mis
      p0444 purge control

      looks like from those codes you have either a vacuum leak related to the evap purge valve (located on airbox, the 2 pin connector and has one vac line on each side of it.

      When the car is running spray some intake cleaner at the vacuum hoses by the airbox and around it and if the engine idle raises then the hose you sprayed is bad. If nothing happens I would assume the evap purge valve is bad.

      FYI a faulty cam sensor will cause a cam sensor code and you had no code for that.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      04 Jetta Wagon 2.slow------>Family man now

    25. Junior Member
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      B6 1.8TQMS, 79 Datsun 280ZX, Triumph Sprint ST 955, 1987 Nissan 300ZX
      01-18-2012 10:44 PM #25
      You've spent a ton of money in parts so far. Here's my guess:

      This hissing sound you're hearing from the passenger side is your secondary air pump, which I don't think is a part of your problem, and is simply coincidental that the pump runs for the same duration at startup as the increased idle speed at start-up.

      I think you have a vacuum leak, and the reason why the problem only appears after the 60 or so seconds is because this is the point where your cold-start high idle is reduced to the normal RPMs. When you drop the RPMs back down, you lower the pressure at the intake (from above atmospheric to vacuum) and your problem then becomes noticeable.

      You've made two statements yourself which point to a vacuum leak, the bit about the problem worsening after the 30 seconds (once the idle drops) and about the engine running better when you rev it (because you're pressurizing the intake and therefore masking the problem.)

      Pull your oil cap and check for a massive amount of suction. Go along the intake and pinch each vacuum line, if the engine smooths out while you do this, you know that's where the issue is. You mentioned checking all the check valves, there are more than 20 something if I'm correct, high chance one of those could be bad and you could be pulling suction from somewhere you shouldn't.

      Give it a systematic troubleshooting approach, and think only about what goes on during the warm-up cycle. Please post once you've figured it out, I'm sure I'm not the only one who's curious....

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