Not too big, but best if you have some head work done.
Is it a Schrick?
#1
I'm getting a smoking deal on a 272 symmetrical camshaft, so I'm taking it. But is it too big for a G60?
I run a 68mm pulley on a 3 fin and ported charger, stock head, gasket match but no port work. And a slight compression bump to 8.5:1 on the bottom end. Is that way too much cam, or is it worth a go to see what it does?
My rev limiter is set at 7000rpm, I shift at 6000rpm now, but if the cam wanted to keep reving I could let her scream out to 6500 or whatever with no problems there. Only other really mentionable mod is I run a 55hp jetting of nitrous. I run the bottle down to 3lbs ( so about 7lbs through the motor) and then refill. Maybe 3 refills a summer. Not sure if that matters though. I'm more concerned with idle/starting issues being I still run Digi-1 and that's MAP based. I'm also under the impression I will see less boost pressure on the gauge, but the engine will make more power.
Thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance!
edit: Pic to bring the views
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| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#3
Not sure yet trying to identify it now. It's in the garage.
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#4
Apparently it's a schrick 272
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#5
100% Schrick 272/272
Numbers on the end are 01401 72102, which according to this parts lists make is a 272. Got the lifters with it individually bagged and marked too. Price might as well have been free, so can"t really pass it up. I'll put it in before spring here, and see if I like it.
http://www.sandtler.de/katalogangebo...nwellen/vw.htm
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#6
Nice. Sounds like the price was right. I am sure the asym version has some advantages, but the 272 is still a good cam.
Let us know how it turns out.
#7
With a fairly large cam like this on a G60, would it be a bad idea to advance the Camshaft say 4 degrees?
Just thinking it bring bring that peak power down a few hundred rpm, and make the cam more G60 friendly.
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#8
I drove with the VWM cam, duration >300 degrees. It's ok but port the head and intake. Even with a race setup, porting the 8V head is a disapointment when it comes to flow. Dropping troque after 5000rpm is normal.
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#10
I was talking to yip about cams on the G60 motor. IIRC he said the 272 will have too much overlap. I've seen some say that it will work alright with the G Ladder but not a turbo. It sounds like you're wanting a little more power. Looks like you've got a SNS Stg IV and nitrous on a G60.
I went from an Autotech Sport 260 cam (w/ Stg III + ISV reroute) to a tt 270 cam on a new motor build w/ SNS Stg V. The 270 is a bit more loppy than a stock or 260 cam but it's barely noticeable. You'll deff notice the 272 @ idle.
Think about giving Derek a call @ NY family (Scientific Rabbit). After a Stg III/IV on a G60 you've really reached the end of the motors potential unless you change the flow characteristics. I used a SR ported G60 intake SR ported G60 intake since it was readily available and had (again) real world flow data.
After the new G Ladder goes on I've got to install the BBM AWIC that's been collecting dust in the garage. With the tt big valve kit, SR port/polish, SNS Stg V & AWIC I'll have a consistent 250+ hp torque monster with decent reliability & longevity. I'll throw it on a dyno when I'm done to see how all the pieces fit together.
#11
Ok so here's the thing, I changed my Cam and injectors at same time. Now the injectors are stock spec, but new EV6 style.
The Schrick 272 seems to start and idle as good or even better then my stock G60 cam. Under 3000rpm feels about the same by the butt dyno. But definitely feels like it's pulling harder at 4000rpm. With the stock cam you could almost feel it hit a "wall" at 5200rpm, but now that is not noticeable. My revlimiter is set at 7000rpm, so I gave it a few high rpm tests. Now it seems to hit that "wall" at 6000rpm" and is faster if you just shift at 6000rpm, no point to rev any higher.
Boost wise, it's maybe 1/2 psi under what it was at 3000rpm WOT before, and even climbs pretty much like before. But where as boost would really ramp up once you hit 5000rpm and peak at 16-17psi at 6000rpm before, now it makes like 14-15psi. So lost a good 2psi on the top end, but seems to pull harder through to 6000rpm.
Vacuum at idle used to be a steady 15hg, not it's a steady 10hg. Seems way low (I know this is typical trait of big cams) but idles and starts great!
Overall, no loss of idle quality, no loss in driveabilty off idle/low rpm, and power improvement at 4000-5000rpm right in the meat of the G60 power band, and more willing to be revved to redline then before. Great cam, no downfalls.
Sidebar about the idle: I had a pretty thumpy idle before, and I always suspected one (or more) of the injectors was worn and feeding too much fuel at idle. So this idle improvement might be the new injectors. I thought I was upgrading my spray pattern as well with some 4 hole injectors, but my old G60 injectors were 4 hole too. But new injectors are new, and not 20 year old ones. So they should be working better.
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#12
with my 269/260 it sits at 12. runs perfect and i even had the cam degreed in. stock ignition timing.
#13
I have 272 aswell and what you described is exactly what i have. i shift at 6000rpm too cos there seems to be a torque drop off and my idle is smoother than the stock cam.
have you an afr meter ? i was running stock injectors on that cam and 68mm pulley she went thru the 14.7 around 4.5k and wud tend to lean out towards the redline thats why i was shifting early.
Again my boost was acting like yours peaking at 15 psi.
I then went to 30lb red top injectors to try and combat the leaning issue and a new sns chip it did improve it but i removed the head and realised it was cracked from leaning out up near the redline.
Id stick an afr meter on it. u need to be 12:1 going thru the rev range and holding that otherwise your killing the engine.
#14
I have an innovate LC1, but can't get it to free air calibrate so not using it right now.
That seems really lean for an SNS chipped car, mine's generally rich everywhere but I would like to know what it is doing now, so I am going to try and get the innovate working asap. Especially before I spray nitrous through it this year, I'd like to getting my N20 jetting bang on this year.
I'm running a 3.5bar regulator, but if it's a bit lean everywhere, I'll probably just up the fuel pressure a touch. I have a 4.0 bar FPR on the shelf, and if that's too rich, I'll buy an adjustable one. If it's only leaning up top, I'll have to try something else, like an extra injector and controller.
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