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Thread: 1983 Rabbit GTi Build [Part 2]

  1. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    11-24-2011 04:36 PM #1
    1983 Rabbit GTi Build [Part 2]

    Well you see this is part 2 of my build, I wanted to get rid of my last thread because I was banned quite a few times for advertising my old company and what I was selling, Vortex wasnt to fond of that. So Im starting Fresh, no more selling on the Vortex for me.....
    Part 2 will show you what im focusing on:

    More body work
    Interior work!!!
    and maybe Ill get to the engine bay, but thats far away still...

    Here is my old thread:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-The-83-Rabbit
    Last edited by DuB-P; 02-26-2012 at 09:00 PM.

  2. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    11-24-2011 04:49 PM #2
    Rabbit Gauge Cluster build:

    20111124 (Happy thanksgiving everyone)

    Heres a before:

    its all hazy and there black spots all over it.



    give me a couple hours, ill show you the after
    Last edited by DuB-P; 11-24-2011 at 05:41 PM.

  3. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    11-24-2011 05:41 PM #3
    AFTER:




  4. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    83 Rabbit GTi / 04.5 Jetta GLi
    11-26-2011 06:21 PM #4
    ORDERED:



    for everything inside the rabbit

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    2005 Nissan Frontier, E30, 1984 16v gti
    11-26-2011 07:05 PM #5
    I think I still have a couple 120 mph spedos lying around. I'm going to start parting out this car soon or send it to the crusher




  6. Member urbancynic's Avatar
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    11-26-2011 07:37 PM #6
    Quote Originally Posted by arric View Post
    I think I still have a couple 120 mph spedos lying around. I'm going to start parting out this car soon or send it to the crusher



    but why
    Current: 2011 Chevy Silverado
    Previous: 84 Jetta diesel, 00 Jetta TDI, 04 Frontier, 05 Tacoma, 01 Jetta VR6, 05 GTI, 85 Jetta diesel, 06 Tacoma V6, 81 Rabbit diesel, 81 Rabbit 16v, 86 GTI, 86 325e, 89 GLI, 99 MK3 Jetta, 73 Stupid Beetle, 89 GTI 16V, 92 Jetta Carat, 74 F250, 86 325es, 77 MGB, 73 C10, 06 MCS

  7. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    11-26-2011 07:48 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by urbancynic View Post
    but why
    yeah that thing is beautiful!!!

    let me get one of those clusters

  8. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-05-2011 07:19 PM #8
    Having some Issues. In the morning as everyone knows, it was like 40 degrees. My car kept trying to shut off on the way to work, and I looked at my gauge it was at 8V. I bought a battery 6 months ago... so it has to be my alternator or volt regulator. So im confused cause a hour later it started, and ran fine, driving it was at 12-13v and staying strong, then I drive it after work and it drops to 10v when im driving, and then when I hit a stop light it goes to 12v. Any advice anyone?

    P.s. Belt is tight Battery connections even tighter, All fuses are good.

  9. Member karolgolf24's Avatar
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    12-05-2011 07:31 PM #9
    How about your ground ???

  10. Member urbancynic's Avatar
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    12-05-2011 08:15 PM #10
    Sounds like a bad ground to me.
    Current: 2011 Chevy Silverado
    Previous: 84 Jetta diesel, 00 Jetta TDI, 04 Frontier, 05 Tacoma, 01 Jetta VR6, 05 GTI, 85 Jetta diesel, 06 Tacoma V6, 81 Rabbit diesel, 81 Rabbit 16v, 86 GTI, 86 325e, 89 GLI, 99 MK3 Jetta, 73 Stupid Beetle, 89 GTI 16V, 92 Jetta Carat, 74 F250, 86 325es, 77 MGB, 73 C10, 06 MCS

  11. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-05-2011 09:21 PM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by karolgolf24 View Post
    How about your ground ???
    Alternator tested good. The Alternator ground looked good to me. I guess it could be my battery... from the hot to cold weather.

  12. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-06-2011 10:22 PM #12
    20111206:



    So my battery cables = good
    Alternator = good (autozone btw checked it)
    Battery = good

    I have my car completely apart well the charging system ha. Anyway there's a picture of the ground coming off the alternator, cleaned it up, looks good. Could it be that when the car heats up the alternator isnt charging? Cause it seems that way, cause after I let it sit it started up, like right up, maybe the alternator is starting to fail, and only works half the time......?? Whats your thoughts

    bought a new alternator belt just for the hell of it, no big deal, it wasnt squealing but I was like what the hell why not.

    just help if you can, point me in the right direction please, Im kinda lost

  13. Member MAtkisson's Avatar
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    12-06-2011 10:30 PM #13
    What is the condition of the small blue wire that goes to the charge indicator light?

    That is the wire that "turns the alternator on".

  14. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-06-2011 11:39 PM #14
    Quote Originally Posted by MAtkisson View Post
    What is the condition of the small blue wire that goes to the charge indicator light?

    That is the wire that "turns the alternator on".
    Be a little more specific.... To the VDO Volt gauge? or on the back of the alternator?

    More news from tonight:

    Here's more pictures, see the regulator.. The brushes are worn down uneven..... is that normal? There is a little play in the alternator, but its not bad at all, it doesn't make any noise while running. One brush would have contact because of tension on the regulator brush spring, and it seems like the other brush would just rest on there.




  15. 12-07-2011 11:47 AM #15
    Didn't you say alternator tested good?
    The blue wire is on the back of the alternator, how is the ground from the motor to the frame on the transmission side? If it is missing or broken all kinds of weird stuff happens.

  16. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-07-2011 10:51 PM #16
    Grounds are good, I tested them by using gator clips, and it didn't move the volt gauge at all.

    it now could be one of two things:

    Voltage regulator needs replaced due to un-even wear....

    or the LEDs i installed in the cluster and dome light??? is that possible... cause that happen a couple days after i installed them..

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    12-09-2011 02:39 AM #17
    I don't really see how it'd be the LEDs, seeing as LEDs require less voltage to operate compared to incandescent bulbs.

    As for the voltage regulator, my old one wore unevenly as well, but I think that maybe because of the design of the alternator. According to Chilton (I know, not the first choice for VWs) if the brushes are less than 5mm in length it needs to be replaced. RockAuto has their cheapest one for about $9.

  18. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-09-2011 07:56 AM #18
    Yeah I saw that on RockAuto, im going to have to order one I guess, and go from there. Thanks bro

  19. Member vwrabbitjunkie's Avatar
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    12-09-2011 09:50 AM #19
    i think dougs buggs n bunnys in mesa has new brushes in stock. give them a call. they open at nine. 480-962-1101

  20. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-09-2011 10:47 AM #20
    Quote Originally Posted by vwrabbitjunkie View Post
    i think dougs buggs n bunnys in mesa has new brushes in stock. give them a call. they open at nine. 480-962-1101
    Thanks bro! I'm going to call him here in 15mins

  21. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-10-2011 11:55 AM #21
    So i really thing its my Battery, even though its 6 months old I still think its the battery.

    See what it does in the cold morning that we have been having 30-40 degrees it will crank and then die. Ill come home from work after driving the GLi all day, and then ill crank it, then it will start up. I must not have enough cold cranking amps.

  22. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-11-2011 05:48 PM #22
    20111211:

    Well got my new hazard switch in today, and some optima battery's that im slow charging right now, im going to put one in the Gli, and one in the rabbit, got a good deal on both of them.




  23. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    12-12-2011 11:12 PM #23
    Ordered Voltage regulator today. 31.00

  24. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-04-2012 01:07 AM #24
    ended up being a voltage regulator. Thanks GermanAutoParts

  25. Member jmob14's Avatar
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    01-05-2012 12:26 AM #25
    would you end up selling it then ?

  26. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-11-2012 11:52 PM #26
    I was bored.... more mk1 toe hooks made


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    01-12-2012 01:34 AM #27
    u dsellin the hooks!!!

  28. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-12-2012 11:34 PM #28
    Got my Rear TT Strut brace back from Powdercoat, done pearl white by All Valley Powder Coat, Thanks Paul!






  29. Member need a vdub's Avatar
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    01-12-2012 11:59 PM #29
    Just wait until you see the pearl effect in the sun.
    For powder and ceramic coatings email me.
    avpcoating@gmail.com

  30. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-14-2012 12:47 AM #30
    Quote Originally Posted by need a vdub View Post
    Just wait until you see the pearl effect in the sun.
    Im going to install it tomorrow, I'll take more pictures.

  31. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-14-2012 02:13 PM #31
    Install the TT Rear Strut brace today




  32. Member jhayesvw's Avatar
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    01-15-2012 12:34 AM #32
    looks good.
    and its good to see you have your electrical issue solved.
    Those are such a PITA to diagnose.

    Keep up the work.

  33. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-15-2012 12:26 PM #33
    Quote Originally Posted by jhayesvw View Post
    looks good.
    and its good to see you have your electrical issue solved.
    Those are such a PITA to diagnose.

    Keep up the work.
    your telling me bro, just ordered a headlight switch cause my rear running lights went to ****, and I keep getting pulled over lol.

    ordered some Carbon fiber, for the dash, and interior pieces.

    Got the GLi up on jacks painting the calipers, powdercoating the wheels (all valley powdercoat) and sending my axles to marty in florida and he is going to rebuild them for me. Pictures to come with that also.

  34. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-16-2012 12:41 PM #34
    I have a question, I have a EuroSport upper strut brace, Eurosport lower control arm brace, and a Autotech front sway bar, is that to much? should I loose the sway bar for better handling?

  35. Member DuB-P's Avatar
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    01-17-2012 07:31 PM #35


    little picture update.....

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