Suspension spec thread

[Lost Sailor]

Just curious if anyone out there has experience with driving on Ohlins and KW clubsports. I think those two products would make for a very interesting comparison.

[ryeboy]

Good to know! I think most of them agree that you could use slightly lower springs with the Ohlins if you did want to lower a bit too. That still seems like the best option to me no matter what your goal is (unless it is just to get as low as possible with no care for ride quality or handling). You may be thinking about it a bit too much at this point and if possible, just try the Ohlins with stock springs or something close and I'm willing to bet they will give you everything you are asking for. Their ability to handle bumps is amazing compared to anything else I've experienced.

I wish I could report more. Every thing is ready to install, but I've had to wait for boots that would fit over the massive Ohlins pistons and under the springs. GC also forgot to include the steel rings upon which the sleeves rest...so I was waiting for those. Tomorrow, I go out of town for a week, so my time table keeps getting pushed back.



The rear springs shown are 7" and as Ryan astutely noted, they are too short. They will fall out if the rear is jacked up enough to raise the wheel. Plus, they drop the rear about 1.5". GC is sending 8" springs that should do the trick. Hopefully, once this is sorted out, I'll have some firm recommendations to offer and impressions to share.

[Slave IV]

I know Ohlins makes top shelf stuff, but also $$$ right? I'll have to see how much they cost - now I'm curiuos. You may be right that Ohlins shocks with the right valving would do the trick for me - sounds worth looking at. I just put Koni FSD shocks on last summer though and I feel they have taken me a noticeable step in the direction I want to go. I feel that I just need a bit more compression dampening now, particularly in the front. I wish I could just find springs that would put me at stock ride height (or at least less than 1" lower) while being stiff enough for me to keep the nose of my car from diving so hard when I hit mid corner bumps - my front air dam is ground down to maybe half what it was now. Seems like it should not be that complicated or expensive of a problem to solve, IDK... If Ryeboy's kit works out I'll probably just go that route.

Ohlin dampers are just under $2k and if you used with the stock springs, no revalving needed and you should be good to go. They should be fine even with some lowering springs that you can get from Eibach or Swift without additional valving and you'd still be under the price of KW Clubsports.

ryeboy, thanks for the updates and pics! Was the GC kit a necessary thing for you to get to work with the Ohlins or you just decided to go all out? I didn't think much into it before but if you could clarify, that would be great. I thought you could just get the Ohlins and use with stock springs or any aftermarket springs that work with the stock setup.

Just curious if anyone out there has experience with driving on Ohlins and KW clubsports. I think those two products would make for a very interesting comparison.

I've driven on Ohlins and KW V3's but on different platforms from the MkV. I can say there was a night and day difference between the two where the Ohlins just gave an overwhelmingly sense of control, stability and smoothness while the KW V3's felt very good, but much harsher. I have no idea what each setup was set at but after driving on Ohlins, my eyes lit up and I've been set on going that route since if I ever do suspension on any car. Motons should be very comparable to Ohlins but those setups are even more rare, especially on our MkV platform.

[ryeboy]

Ohlin dampers are just under $2k and if you used with the stock springs, no revalving needed and you should be good to go. They should be fine even with some lowering springs that you can get from Eibach or Swift without additional valving and you'd still be under the price of KW Clubsports.

ryeboy, thanks for the updates and pics! Was the GC kit a necessary thing for you to get to work with the Ohlins or you just decided to go all out? I didn't think much into it before but if you could clarify, that would be great. I thought you could just get the Ohlins and use with stock springs or any aftermarket springs that work with the stock setup.



I've driven on Ohlins and KW V3's but on different platforms from the MkV. I can say there was a night and day difference between the two where the Ohlins just gave an overwhelmingly sense of control, stability and smoothness while the KW V3's felt very good, but much harsher. I have no idea what each setup was set at but after driving on Ohlins, my eyes lit up and I've been set on going that route since if I ever do suspension on any car. Motons should be very comparable to Ohlins but those setups are even more rare, especially on our MkV platform.

I think I've said it before... when buying the Ohlins, I was explaining my intent to pair them with slightly stiffer S3 OEM springs to Beau at Performance Shock. He argued that plan was a waste of an amazing damper like the Ohlins. He got me thinking about using the Ohlins as base to build a coilover kit that would allow near stock ride height to preserve suspension geometry. The rest is history. Of course I did due diligence with Jeff at Ohlins USA who really like the idea and gave his blessing to the spring rates. As SlaveIV has pointed out repeatedly, there would be much less guess work if we knew the rates of the stock springs

I had crudely estimated the stock spring rates by measuring the difference in spring length when compressed versus unloaded. I arrived at about 275 lb/in for the fronts and 225 for the rears. The effective rear spring rate is complicated by the fact that the rear spring is placed further inboard relative to the front springs (~0.65 of the rear LCA versus ~0.9 of the front LCA). In other words, even if the actual spring rate of the front and rear springs were comparable, the effective spring rate of the rear would appear less because it is closer to the fulcrum of the lever (if that makes any sense). The rear springs also carry less weight (~700 lbs each) versus the front (~1150 each)--but that difference in sprung weight is almost precisely the difference in their placement on their respective LCAs. The rear springs are also mounted more at an angle relative to the fronts, so one needs to account for that. Taking all these vagaries into account is how I arrived at the loosey-goosey 275/225 lb/in estimated rates for front/rear respectively. Keeping those rates roughly in proportion and taking it up a notch is how I arrived at 450/350 lb/in for the Eibach spring rates I requested for the GC kit. Technically, my calculations would indicate that I need a stronger rear spring than 350, but GC strongly urged me to stay at 350. As my back of the napkin calculations on OEM spring rates were arguably lame, I decided to cede to the common wisdom. If they were right, cool. If I followed their suggestions and they were wrong, I had a stronger bargaining position to argue for them to ship out a stronger spring

As I already said, GC was wrong about the 7" rear spring length, but they immediately sent out new 8" springs and a return shipping label for the 7 inchers. Hopefully, they'll do the same if the 350 lb/in rating doesn't match the fronts. Whatever GC has lacked in raw expertise has been compensated for by their excellent customer service. Kudos.

Slowly, but surely, I'm getting closer to giving the Ohlins a proper evaluation. Hopefully, this experiment will be worth it. The process has been more complicated than I had hoped, but it is all relative. Sometimes I have to remember what Tom of Innovative MS went through to make Jesse's car an R36/MT. Then I feel like a complete wuss for any griping

[-VDubSack-]

I recently had the chance to ride in the Stasis A4 around Summit Point and it was running their top of the line Ohlins coilovers. From what I could feel from the passenger seat the car had an amazingly smooth ride for being VERY composed, especially through the highly technical carousel. The car was also running Michelin PS2's so I can't tell how exactly how much was on the suspension vs. the tires but either way the car was extremely well sorted and honestly felt like a well balanced RWD car.

When talking with some of the Stasis/Eurojet engineers they said they were hoping to get going on building VW suspension products and specifically R-line cars My only concern, which I shared with them was I wasn't looking for them to offer entry level" packages seeing as generally it's a lower price point market than the Audi guys. I was reassured that they would try to offer top notch solutions for the R-line guys as we might be more inclined to spend more than the average GTI driver(no disrespect intended).

Anywho, I'll keep searching and knocking 'em back until something tangible is produced but thought I'd share the feedback

EDIT: The guys at Stasis/Eurojet were also UBER good guys, when I needed to bleed my brakes after my 1st track day they took care of me by scrounging up some Motul 5.1. If they hadn't been there to help I might not have made the 2nd day

[Slave IV]

Ok, thanks for the details ryeboy..I still thought the Ohlins came ready to go with stock springs and gave stock ride height without any additional parts and I thought they were already a "coilover" type setup. When I was going back to update the OP, I noticed the AST kit comes with 7" front coils and 9" rear coils...might be something worth noting/comparing.

-VDubSack-...The Stasis Ohlins are great and those are some cool cats. The Ohlins I've experienced were the Stasis Motorsports for the B5 S4 and B7 RS4 platforms. As I mentioned before, these cars have been the most comfortable and most composed handling cars with aftermarket suspensions I've ever experienced. I've tried the same cars with KW V3's, Bilsteins and several other types of suspension and nothing felt close to the Ohlins in composure or comfort. It will be nice to see what they do for the VW R-cars but I almost would rather see Performance Shock do something for us with the new TTX Ohlin Dampers like the ones I pictured earlier for my S4.

Anyways, looking forward to hearing the impressions from ryeboy when you get it all on your car and go have some fun with it!

[Harry_Krishna]

hey harry

that was mark smith

more info here

http://www.3zero3motorsports.com/blo...ew-mark-smith/

Thanks for the link, and wave Abe! Yes, that is HIM! If ever there was a monster R32, this is the one. And even when running in the "Street" Touring class a few years back, that car was no longer streetable. He went way out on it. Pushed the class rules to the total limits.


Man, you guys are so lucky! When I got my R (and had the money and a job), there was nothing available, and no information on setups or specs like you are finding today. I bought the KW V3 setup as they just came out, were the only ones out, and had previously used them on my STi. Even the intakes and exhaust systems were just starting to trickle in. Oh if only I could do it all over again, today! Those Ohlins are making me drool! But right now, I am just lucky I still have my R (and only 23K miles on it), and have at least decent goodies on it

[10Ten]

Rocky how have you managed to keep so few miles in your car for this long? isnt it your DD?

[Harry_Krishna]

Rocky how have you managed to keep so few miles in your car for this long? isnt it your DD?

Well, partial luck, and partial bad. Luck, was finding a job local, bad luck is months between jobs. And right now, it's back to the bad again

[Efren171]

what do you guys think about the FK coil overs?

[Slave IV]

what do you guys think about the FK coil overs?

I don't know much about them but would love to get some info to add to this thread. I believe they use Koni dampers but everything is custom spec'd to FK's requirements. They seem to be similar to KW's lineup but I really have no idea so hopefully someone with experience will chime in.

[mfbmike]

what do you guys think about the FK coil overs?

As far as I know, FK never made R32 specific coils and can be used for the entire mk5 line including the GTI/Jetta/Rabbit/etc. Which means, the (very) nose heavy R32 on a set of FK's could prove to be an uncomfortable ride due to spring rates - or so I've heard anyway.

mpearce was on a set of fk's for a long time. If your goal is just to get real low on a budget, FK's get the job done.

[Mr_Peach]

Alas, we'll have to depend on the well-seasoned Peach butt dyno for an answer

Quick recap:
########
I ran the Neuspeed RSB and endlinks on my otherwise-stock-suspension MkV R32 for a couple years. I reverted to the OEM RSB, retaining the Neuspeed endlinks. Then headed to Oregon Raceway Park (ORP).
########

Mini review:
ORP is a very 'technical' road course. Lots of elevation change, a mix of cambers, and a fair number of blind corners.

While getting situated and learning the course in the first run session, I noticed a tad more body roll (which at first felt a little like tire sidewall rolling over).

Once I learned the corners well enough to be looking 'up and out' (next corner) instead of 'down and in', the body roll sort of disappeared in my mind, and I proceeded to unlock turn-by-turn how fast I could go. My run group (indeed, all of the run groups) was at least 75% "first time at ORP", so we were all learning the course together. Why is this important in a suspension thread? I can't count the number of times I thought I had clear track in front of me, only to be cresting a rise at 90+ and finding a gaggle of folks on the blind side, braking way too early/hard!

This was a really good day not to be plagued with excess lift throttle oversteer. I lifted throttle a *lot* in response to traffic. My car was still pretty dead neutral. I had the tail come around a few times, but it was easier to 'catch' with a stock RSB than it was with the stiffer Neuspeed.

The one thing I haven't tried is mounting the Neuspeed RSB and setting it to 'less stiff'. It's conceivable to me that Neuspeed on 'less stiff' would be roughly equivalent to stock. But I don't really see the advantage in that.

At this point, I'll hang on to the Neuspeed RSB in storage. When I get around to updating dampers and springs, perhaps I'll want to revisit this experiment.

[10Ten]

The one thing I haven't tried is mounting the Neuspeed RSB and setting it to 'less stiff'. It's conceivable to me that Neuspeed on 'less stiff' would be roughly equivalent to stock. But I don't really see the advantage in that.

if i recall right, the soft mounting of the Neuspeed is still firmer than the OEM bar. but that's a purely subjective impression.

wish i coulda been there.

[Slave IV]

Quick recap:
########
I ran the Neuspeed RSB and endlinks on my otherwise-stock-suspension MkV R32 for a couple years. I reverted to the OEM RSB, retaining the Neuspeed endlinks. Then headed to Oregon Raceway Park (ORP).
########

Mini review:
ORP is a very 'technical' road course. Lots of elevation change, a mix of cambers, and a fair number of blind corners.

While getting situated and learning the course in the first run session, I noticed a tad more body roll (which at first felt a little like tire sidewall rolling over).

Once I learned the corners well enough to be looking 'up and out' (next corner) instead of 'down and in', the body roll sort of disappeared in my mind, and I proceeded to unlock turn-by-turn how fast I could go. My run group (indeed, all of the run groups) was at least 75% "first time at ORP", so we were all learning the course together. Why is this important in a suspension thread? I can't count the number of times I thought I had clear track in front of me, only to be cresting a rise at 90+ and finding a gaggle of folks on the blind side, braking way too early/hard!

This was a really good day not to be plagued with excess lift throttle oversteer. I lifted throttle a *lot* in response to traffic. My car was still pretty dead neutral. I had the tail come around a few times, but it was easier to 'catch' with a stock RSB than it was with the stiffer Neuspeed.

The one thing I haven't tried is mounting the Neuspeed RSB and setting it to 'less stiff'. It's conceivable to me that Neuspeed on 'less stiff' would be roughly equivalent to stock. But I don't really see the advantage in that.

At this point, I'll hang on to the Neuspeed RSB in storage. When I get around to updating dampers and springs, perhaps I'll want to revisit this experiment.

if i recall right, the soft mounting of the Neuspeed is still firmer than the OEM bar. but that's a purely subjective impression.

wish i coulda been there.

Thanks for the update, Mr_Peach...I always believed that driving school is the best mod you can do for any car you drive and testimonies like this are great to hear

I was wondering why Neuspeed doesn't provide info on how much their bar increases stiffness (again, this info is usually available from other manufactures for most other cars I've looked into them for and it seems to be a trend for MkV R32 parts..maybe the companies are noticing that MKV R32 owners don't care or ask these questions and just throw them money for new parts so why bother providing the info?...One of the main reasons I started this thread was to change this mentality). All aftermarket sway bars I've seen that do provide numbers increase the stiffness significantly at any setting, fwiw.

*EDIT - just for example, I checked the numbers on the sway bars I have for my S4 and they are 140% stiffer at soft setting and 169% stiffer at hard setting.

As far as I know, FK never made R32 specific coils and can be used for the entire mk5 line including the GTI/Jetta/Rabbit/etc. Which means, the (very) nose heavy R32 on a set of FK's could prove to be an uncomfortable ride due to spring rates - or so I've heard anyway.

mpearce was on a set of fk's for a long time. If your goal is just to get real low on a budget, FK's get the job done.

Thanks for the extra info mfbmike When I searched their site, it looked like they have several tiers of options depending on what you are after but they do seem to be for a wide range of models, regardless of the weight/engine so that is always a red flag to me when a suspension company doesn't take those important things into account.

[motrrrpsycho]

Mr. Peach, I forget - do you have the Haldex controller with switch? I do, and feel that on race mode, the way it keeps the rear axles engaged under braking really helps with braking stability. I'm not completely sure about throttle lift, but I -think- it helps there too. Before I had this, I felt like my rear end would get kind of loose and floaty feeling and felt like it tried to come around on my a couple of times under throttle lift and braking in a strait line on the street, but never since then (while going strait). I have my Neuspeed bar on the stiff setting and the only time I have experience any major throttle lift oversteer is my one track day at PIR last year on T6 when I accelerated through it as hard as I could till I started to -just- push the front and then lifted. It was accidental the first time, then I did it on purpose several times after that which was great fun for me (maybe not so much for my instructor tho... ). I'm looking forward to trying ORP in near future!

[vdubnhead]

what do you guys think about the FK coil overs?

check in the PSU build thread link...pretty sure he has the FK silverlines. he's a poke n stance guy and loves the rubbing. sorry 'drew, you know i you.

[Mr_Peach]

Mr. Peach, I forget - do you have the Haldex controller with switch? I do, and feel that on race mode, the way it keeps the rear axles engaged under braking really helps with braking stability. I'm not completely sure about throttle lift, but I -think- it helps there too.

I do, and I agree it helps with braking stability, and just feeling 'more AWD'.

My notes from July 08:

I just came back from a test drive, running my usual set of cloverleafs. Had traffic for the first couple reps, and I couldn't get the phrase, "negative Ghost rider, the pattern is full" out of my head......

Add me to the list of folks who think 'comp' rocks. It's a little hard to describe, but it's like some lash has been taken out of the drivetrain. The car just feels a little tighter and more throttle responsive when cornering than it did in 'sport'.

I may have made my 'lift throttle oversteer' a little worse. I am running neuspeed RSB and endlinks. When I say it's 'worse', it now seems more predictable, a little more 'connected' if you will. It's that tightness in the drivetrain again. So in one sense more predictable is better.

I thought then that the combo rotates a little more on lift throttle. In the 3 years I've run it, I've 'departed controlled flight' a handful of times, generally at high speed in a sweeper. Some were trailing throttle (hey, I've been known to flinch) and some were 'cause unknown'. Between that and TechEd, I decided to try reverting to OEM on the RSB.

[Mr_Peach]

Thanks for the update, Mr_Peach...I always believed that driving school is the best mod you can do for any car you drive and testimonies like this are great to hear
.

I agree with the sentiment.

For the record, I didn't get any in car instruction this trip. There were none advertised for this event; you had to be qualified 'solo' to register. They were short handed, and the only way I could guarantee some instruction would have been to jump in an instructors car. Two problems there; I get carsick, and I might have missed my session due to overlap.

I improved by taking time to learn the track slow, comparing notes in the paddock with others about what was working for them in which turns, stuff like that. Finally, I fell back on a time-honored tradition: pass everybody (safely) who drove too slow, find somebody driving smooth & fast, follow them and let them teach you a few tricks!

[Slave IV]

Anytime you are on the track and can evaluate your car's handling characteristics and your own skills at the limits, I think you are learning whether you are officially in "driver's school" or not...and that is a good thing...

[Ryan E.]

Very nice, it seems that you brought some balance back to the car.

I find that the back will come out so far and the haldex just keeps it right there as long as you stay on throttle, it's kinda cool when you feel the rear end pushing you out of the turn or exit.

Quick recap:
########
I ran the Neuspeed RSB and endlinks on my otherwise-stock-suspension MkV R32 for a couple years. I reverted to the OEM RSB, retaining the Neuspeed endlinks. Then headed to Oregon Raceway Park (ORP).
########

Mini review:
ORP is a very 'technical' road course. Lots of elevation change, a mix of cambers, and a fair number of blind corners.

While getting situated and learning the course in the first run session, I noticed a tad more body roll (which at first felt a little like tire sidewall rolling over).

Once I learned the corners well enough to be looking 'up and out' (next corner) instead of 'down and in', the body roll sort of disappeared in my mind, and I proceeded to unlock turn-by-turn how fast I could go. My run group (indeed, all of the run groups) was at least 75% "first time at ORP", so we were all learning the course together. Why is this important in a suspension thread? I can't count the number of times I thought I had clear track in front of me, only to be cresting a rise at 90+ and finding a gaggle of folks on the blind side, braking way too early/hard!

This was a really good day not to be plagued with excess lift throttle oversteer. I lifted throttle a *lot* in response to traffic. My car was still pretty dead neutral. I had the tail come around a few times, but it was easier to 'catch' with a stock RSB than it was with the stiffer Neuspeed.

The one thing I haven't tried is mounting the Neuspeed RSB and setting it to 'less stiff'. It's conceivable to me that Neuspeed on 'less stiff' would be roughly equivalent to stock. But I don't really see the advantage in that.

At this point, I'll hang on to the Neuspeed RSB in storage. When I get around to updating dampers and springs, perhaps I'll want to revisit this experiment.

exactly, on race mode the rear diff engine brakes the car, providing better braking and handling. I need to get me a switch, I've been running in sport mode.

Mr. Peach, I forget - do you have the Haldex controller with switch? I do, and feel that on race mode, the way it keeps the rear axles engaged under braking really helps with braking stability. I'm not completely sure about throttle lift, but I -think- it helps there too.

That's what keeps every event fun, you're constantly learning no matter skill level

Anytime you are on the track and can evaluate your car's handling characteristics and your own skills at the limits, I think you are learning whether you are officially in "driver's school" or not...and that is a good thing...

a little teaser @Buttonwillow, tracking with Willangford making the pass a month ago:

[abeR]

wheres the vid Ryan????

[Ryan E.]

Just got the SD cards from Will, we got a few different positions this time and used both of his gopro's instead of my in car Canon D550. Going to try and make some time over the next week, got a lot going on with moving and work...

I'd love to see some WITW video action, one year I will make it

wheres the vid Ryan????

[abeR]

im interested how they came out , and where you positioned them.. looking to grab a bunch of WiTW footage..

[Ryan E.]

We did:

• front bumper, pretty low
• rear quarter behind passenger to catch the front wheels turning
• rear hatch, Will said the rear hatch was cool and captured the exhaust well.
• in car, on the headrest camera mount I have

I dig the front bumper cam a lot.

[motrrrpsycho]

a little teaser @Buttonwillow, tracking with Willangford making the pass a month ago:

Sweet pic, Ryan! Passing an Elise? Niiiiice! They let you take passengers? That's cool. That was strictly prohibited at the few events I have been at so far, aside from instructors riding with n00bs. My kids are too young now, but I figure they would prolly like to come with me when they are big enough to not need car seats any more.

This was the outing right after getting your cams installed, yeah? You still going to do a cam review post?

BTW - what's thing sticking out of your right lower grill?

[Slave IV]

BTW - what's thing sticking out of your right lower grill?

..One of the GoPro's he's been talking about...

And for the pic!

[Mr_Peach]

We did:

• front bumper, pretty low
• rear quarter behind passenger to catch the front wheels turning
• rear hatch, Will said the rear hatch was cool and captured the exhaust well.
• in car, on the headrest camera mount I have

I dig the front bumper cam a lot.

motrrrpsycho:
That's a bumper cam (GoPro).

abeR:
I'm messing with my vids right now (I have zero "post" skills, so I'm learning on the fly). I tried:

• front bumper, same position as Ryan - fun to watch, but not as tack sharp as I'd like. I think the AF caught a point on the pavement about six feet in front of car.
• passenger door, low. Watch the suspension work.
• rear quarter
• inside, passenger rear window, just above front headrest. Not bad, shows some cockpit stuff. Be sure to set metering to "spot".
• inside, straight down from sunroof in front of passenger headrest. Angled slightly left, this is consistently a great image. Also 'spot'.
• Outside, front of sunroof centered. OK, a tad boring.

I'll get them posted up, probably late this coming weekend.

[motrrrpsycho]

Oh - that's the bumper cam - cool. I assumed the GoPro on the driver side of the bumper was the "bumper cam".

[Mr_Peach]

Oh - that's the bumper cam - cool. I assumed the GoPro on the driver side of the bumper was the "bumper cam".

Sorry, jumped in too quick. Looks like the transponders they use at Buttonwillow.

[Slave IV]

Sorry, jumped in too quick. Looks like the transponders they use at Buttonwillow.

lol, ditto

[motrrrpsycho]

Oh, transponder heh - no worries. I started imagining maybe GoPro had an add on remote / tube shaped cam in a heat protective material specifically to stick through front grills or other small space / hot applications, but... never mind

back on the suspension topic - I'm still debating rather I want to try the GC coilover kit like Ryeboy or just try to do enough research to identify an alternative OE style replacement spring to get stiffer rates but stay as close to stock ride height as possible.

I was checking out the new VWR offerings through APR and noticed this blurb in their info on their sport springs:

VWR does not recommend sport springs on 4-Motion vehicles such as the Golf R and R32 as lowering the ride height from the factory does not offer a significant improvement and can even harm the ride and handling balance of these vehicles. For these vehicles the VWR Streetsport and Streetsport+ Coilover Systems are highly recommended.

And also it looks like they sell their basic coilover kits with progressive springs which they recommend for the street with linear springs as an upgrade / interchangeable option for the track:

VWR springs are delicately selected per each vehicle chassis' design and weight. VWR springs are power-coated blue with VWR Logos etched in and come standard as progressive springs. Progressive springs offer a comfortable daily driving experience on the street and offer excellent control over the bumps and sudden elevation changes seen on streets around the world.

For the track minded enthusiast, a full linear front and rear spring is available. Linear springs offer superior control on the track over progressive springs but do so at the cost of comfort on the street. These springs are designed to directly swap onto your StreetSport or StreetSport Plus suspension and are an excellent upgrade for anyone who frequents the track. Many VWR customers simply swap to the linear springs for a track day even and then back to the progressive springs when on the street.

[Slave IV]

VWR does not recommend sport springs on 4-Motion vehicles such as the Golf R and R32 as lowering the ride height from the factory does not offer a significant improvement and can even harm the ride and handling balance of these vehicles. For these vehicles the VWR Streetsport and Streetsport+ Coilover Systems are highly recommended.

LOL, awesome!

[motrrrpsycho]

Oh - not trying to say "neener neener, I have the right idea and this proves it" or any such thing - not by any stretch - so hope it didn't come off that way! Obviously allot of people have done coilover kits or lowering springs and been very happy with them. I just seem to have a slightly different take or different goal in mind - more of a performance street orientation than track (I'm weird) and was surprised to find this. Seems to be a different take on suspension mods than what you typically hear. Different strokes, right? Just sharing as an alternative perspective in case others have similar thoughts.

[Slave IV]

Haha nope...just interesting to hear that the people who have the most R&D on this car and platform say that about suspension setups for it. I still think the Ohlins are the way to go no matter what you are after, unless it is just going as low as possible.