Looks mighty ambitious. Did you do any troubleshooting before tearing it apart?
Hello everyone, Im not new to the forum I just never signed up. Been reading lots though This is my 4th vdub rebuild but my first diesel.
I picked this car up running with blow by issues. It also came with a bunch of extras, head, axles, PS rack, rotors, black dash and center console and lots of other goodies for $700
Engine is out using my redneck cherry picker
My plans for the motor include a complete rebuild. all bearing(rods, mains) new pistons, oil pump, seals, etc. Complete head rebuild (valve grind, stem seals, guides where needed, port polish, etc)
Hmm I wonder where the blow by problem was
Some parts after a quick solvent bath. Notice the piston in the top right... this new solent im using is strong stuff lol and i learned i cant leave parts in it overnight. They oxidized and are now useless oh well time for new ones
For anyone who reuses head bolts, I bought new head bolts and as you can see here the old ones are visably taller(stretched) then the new ones
Some clean up work here, dont think im even going to have to paint it
Injector apart for inspection and cleaning
I just dropped off the bare block and head at a local engine shop to be hot tanked and resurfaced. I will never do the ol' wire brush and solvent method for the larger parts anymore. It costs $$ but doesnt drain my time and motivation
Oh and my dog, shes begging for some beer
Last edited by trips_b; 03-06-2012 at 12:09 AM.
naw i didnt do much troubleshooting before hand. Considering my plans to do a complete rebuild. Also when I pushed out the number 3 piston the second ring came out in 2 pieces
adding to my plans im doing all new suspension (1.5 drop) complete CA, SB poly bushing set from summit racing, missing links shift kit and complete bushings replacement. I'm also planning a black interior swap and a new paint before spring
I have contacted performancediesel.ca in regards to getting some quotes for the 'Giles pump' but I have not heard back as of yet
I almost didn't rebuild the bottom end, after seeing the mess on the head and block mating surfaces. I assumed that either the head was warped or the head gasket was toast. However there isn't much more work doing the bottom end as well especially cause I had it there on the stand. As long as you have the proper tools and follow all specs and clearances its farly simple.
I do have a question though. How important are those 'specialty timing tools'
This should answer your timing question
Basically the dial indicator is very important.
You should call Giles if it's been a while and he hasn't gotten back to you. I used to work for him and sometimes he wouldn't get emails. Typically he responds to an email the day he gets it (weekdays) 905-940-2266
Thats a great link, thanks. I only emailed Giles friday evening so he probably hasnt even checked his inbox yet.
Another question in regards to the turbo. It is a Garrett T3 as per the nameplate, can I purchase a stamdad T3 rebuild kit for it? Turbos are a relatively new to me as well. I unserstand the basics of boosting and what not but i've never had one apart
How big are the cracks? Not having cracks is unusual to be honest. If you can fit a penny in the cracks, then yes, its no good. If they are skinny cracks, just get them welded up and you should be fine. Do a search on here and VWdiesel.net about it. Its incredibly common.
Yeah sorry got all worked up there, did some searching.. if the cracks are like the ones on my spare head they should be fine. Thats something I've never come across before. Even after getting it resurfaced (if it needs) you still wouldn't recomend a dab of JB weld there?
These guys do a great job with VW d heads (and are pretty close to Vanc BC)
The plug and weld the cracks, their surfacing is superb, b'cuz they use the required ceramic cuttyer inserts to surface across heat treated prechamber steel and aluminum. If you can't see a refractive rainbow in a surfaced head, it has been cut too fast or with a dull cutter. If you can 'snag-a-fingernail' on machining marks, it will leak w / Diesel compression pressure. (sooner or later)
Home of the $35 VW-D
(look in your neighbor's brier patch to find your next Rabbit )
(25) VW-D's IDI's & (3) B4 TDIs and various other clattermobiles
make sure your spare head is a hydro one...
hydro heads in 86 were very uncommon.. 75% or so td and 50% or so in na form... in 85.. 20%ish max.. but i have seen a na hydro 85 golf with original engine.. just not common at all...
in 89 when us got diesel again all were hydro..
so double check you spare parts.. just for saftey.. if not hydro may as well sell it..
i think any epoxy you used would vaporize in seconds..
having a VW diesel head re-surfaced when its not necessary is just asking for bad things to happen..
thanks for the info. I've never had to use JB weld before so i didn't know that. The head isn't going to be resurfaced, its straight. picking the block and head back up tomorrow, bearings, pistons, gasket sets and extras are all ordered up and i'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks
Both heads are hydro, but the spare one is missing a large chunk at one of the glow plug seats, right down to the seat
Got the head back today and the cracks are hardly noticeably. This is the worst one
and the head, reseated, new valve, guide, stem seals and dipped cost me 75 before tax!
The machinest found some pitting/grooves inside the 3rd cylinder.. having it bored and honed 1mm over and pistons w/rings have beens ordered up
has it already been bored .5mm oversized? i thought it was factory, and never been opened up?
if its not pitted bad, or isnt already at .5mm over bore, then i wouldnt bore it straight to 1mm over sized..
if you go from a stock size bore, to 1mm o/s, then you ruin any chance at rebuilding the engine ever again..
again, i wouldnt go to a 1mm over size unless YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO. the increase in displacement will not be worth it. i would rather be able to rebuild an engine again if the need be..
beleive me it wasnt my first choice either, however the pitting is bad enough to warrent the 1mm. In the future if need be i'll just have to purchase another bottom end and do it all over again
Displacement was never a goal, I just want a fresh rebuilt running motor
Im still working om er' Been pretty busy so i just havent made the the time to post
After bore ans hone with new guts installed
This is how she sits right now
Everything has gone well so far, couple of hicups of course. Busy cleaning and painting the engine bay and tranny while im waiting on a new clutch kit and 60/40 suspension kit. Also waiting for gauges so I can intall the pyro and get the exhaust mani/turbo back in as well
Yes they are prothe pistons, unfortunately i didn't do as much research on him as I should have. If i new of all the cheap part problems people have had with him I would have sourced pistons elsewhere. Damn you convienent eBay! I couldn't find any definative proof/source that the pistons are garbage but now im worried about the rings... I did pull each piston out after initial install to assure my piston compressor/sleeve wasn't moving the rings out of the 120 degree offsets. The rings never broke but I guess I should be worried about break in.
I used his pistons in my build that dropped a precup. But I took them out and did rering before running it. Right at that time some guys put about 15,000 miles on their engines and said it was burning oil like crazy. Stay away from his Pumps, but the exterior parts are OK.
About 2/3 the way down...guy is kinda pricey, but he has the .40 over which should be 1.0mm. I would ask him if they are Goetze, as that is the brand I trust. Maybe someone else has something for you. If you had a part # for them azautohaus can probably get them.
Not mine or anyone i know but these were posted in the for sale section of the board...might still be there
Some folks are sketchy about Topline rings (you know who you are)
Yeah, I haven't personally ran topline rings. From what I have heard about them is topline head is ok, rings run from. I don't know if hastings makes rings for our cars, but if they do I would run them as I have had nothing but good luck with them in the gas world. Goetze is it for me. I leaked more oil than I burnt. I used maybe 1/2 a quart in the first 1,000 miles if that. Then I thought I was buring it but it was leaking out of my IM shaft seal. Once that was fixed I never had to add oil again.