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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Warm up regulator.

    1. Member
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      1984 Volkswagen Jetta GL, 1984 Rabbit
      12-06-2011 02:33 PM #1
      My rabbit's been broken for a while... starts and runs, rpms jump around and it has no power (bucks around if you try to drive it). Seems like it runs better when it's cold.

      I've replaced both fuel pumps and I'm trying to find the actual problem. The main external pump still makes a very loud whining sound. I also put some Heet in the tank to try to clean the lines out. The loud pump makes me think something is restricted or blocked somewhere.

      I don't have a pressure gauge. I'm thinking of trying a new Warm up regulator.

      Do you think a faulty or restricted WUR could cause the pump to be noisy? I'm not sure to what magnitude it affects the fuel pressure.
      Thanks

    2. 12-06-2011 03:17 PM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by nickjferraro View Post
      I don't have a pressure gauge. I'm thinking of trying a new Warm up regulator.

      Do you think a faulty or restricted WUR could cause the pump to be noisy? I'm not sure to what magnitude it affects the fuel pressure.
      Thanks
      I'm by no means an expert, but I've spent quite a bit of time over the past year or so resurrecting a very, very neglected '82 cabby. The WUR is a very common trouble spot in the fuel system in neglected cars, and certainly was in mine. It plays a key role in fuel pressure.. hence it's other name.. "Control Pressure Regulator." You probably don't need to by a new one or a good used one. Try taking yours apart and cleaning it. It's not that hard. Remove the electrical connection (if one exists), then carefully remove the two fuel lines. Have a rag handy to catch the gas that will escape. Don't lose the washers around the nuts and banjo bolts. When you put the bolts back on, do NOT torque them too tight and break them. Don't ask. Now, there's only two bolts (Allen, maybe.. I don't remember) holding the WUR/CPR to the block. Remove them, then take the WUR to your bench. Unscrew the screws holding the back on and remove the back, watching out not to tear any rubber gasket. Inside you'll need to do a little disassembly to get at the disc behind the two gas ports, but it's not hard. Just be sure you have the right size small screwdriver so you don't strip the screw heads. Don't ask. Carefully remove the metal diaphragm so you can clean the screens at the fuel fittings. Mine were COMPLETELY clogged with rust. Once you get the screens cleaned, reassemble the whole thing, bolt it back on, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy a much better running engine, better starts, and a cold beer. Maybe not in that order.

      That's from memory. I "renovated" a spare WUR before doing the one on my car for practice, but it wasn't necessary. Anyone can do this.

      Good luck.

      Barry

    3. Member
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      12-06-2011 03:31 PM #3
      I will give it a shot, thanks!

    4. Member WackyWabbitRacer's Avatar
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      12-06-2011 04:16 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by nickjferraro View Post
      My rabbit's been broken for a while... starts and runs, rpms jump around and it has no power (bucks around if you try to drive it). Seems like it runs better when it's cold.
      Your problem sounds more like vacuum leaks as the CIS fuel injection hates any vacuum leak.

      The control pressure from the control pressure regulator (ie WUR) varies depending on the engine and ambient temperature. On a cold start, the control pressure should be about 25 or 26 psi which results in a richer fuel mixture. Thus the reason for your engine running better when it is cold.

      Normally if the control pressure regulator is clogged, the control pressure will be much higher than the normal 25 or 26 psi, causing some difficulty when cold starting.

      Good luck, WWR.
      WWR
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    5. Member
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      12-07-2011 02:08 AM #5
      I took apart the WUR and cleaned it out, made no difference.

      I'm going to buy new vacuum hoses and re-plumb it.

      However, I currently think it's a fuel line clog issue, because the external pump is extremely loud.

      Since I replaced the fuel pump with 2 new ones, seems like something is causing it to run loud. The transfer pump isn't loud, just the external one.

      Does anyone know how the in-tank transfer system is plumbed? My guess is that the pump is starved of fuel or something is restricting it from pumping (this would cause it to be loud, right?).

      I'm trying to figure out if the main pump is served. (partially from the transfer pump, partially from directly from the tank?)

      If the line between the transfer and main is clogged, I guess that would cause it to be loud :/

      It's been running well until this with vacuum leaks, I know this doesn't mean for sure that it's not caused by vacuum leaks, but the loud new pump makes me think it's a fuel issue.

      Thanks.

    6. Member
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      12-07-2011 03:00 AM #6
      Also, I wasn't able to get the WUR that clean... I cleaned the screen from the outside, but from the inside i couldn't. After I removed the four smaller flathead screws, i saw a metal disc with an o-ring in the middle. Nothing seemed to come apart.

    7. Banned Digital K.'s Avatar
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      12-07-2011 03:41 AM #7
      anyone need a known good was new a bit ago wur? cheap! pm me.

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      12-07-2011 06:01 AM #8
      you really need to buy a fuel pressure gauge to diagnossis cis issues.. the coast of it may be high.. but will stop from blowing extra...

      now what car do you have that has 2 pumps??? none in your list i see would have 2.. unless its say a really late 84 cabby/rocco... 85+ has 2..

      now that disk you speak of.. what you do is remove the disk, o-ring and such.. there is 2 holes under the disk that a wick from a carb cleaner can fits into to blow the stuff out..

      then you flip the disk over.. once cleaned with lint free towel and put back together..

      add some new grease to the witche's hat looking thing.. and put back together..

      now if you have a gauge.. you can also reset the wur in this process.. the area where th edisk goes you knock it outwards with a hammer gently.. then once togeter on the car you tap the lines inwards via hammer to get desires fuel pressure.. but again.. you would need a gauge to do that... so dont touch..

      its basically the only adjustment on pressure you can make.. co s set via a dwell meter.. if you go ta o2 sensor.. or with high beams on you can set o2 to fastest idle aka load via alt.. even if you lack a dwell meter and disconnect the o2 sensor it will get ya close..

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