I would think that someone could make custom wobble bolts at a longer length... The concept is correct just may be a lot of work
(I know you know this but generally speaking for everyone else )
Okay let me introduce you into how to determine if spacers work with wobble bolts or not.
On MY setup, this is mine. I am running either a 5MM or an 8MM spacer WITH wobble bolts. (I think an 8MM)
EACH wheel varies between the thickness of the spacer used. For example.
3 Piece wheels, offsets are varied by determining where the face of the wheel sits by the barrel and lip size. So the back of the wheel where it contacts with the hub, the thickness of those are pretty usually the same size. I have never measured it, nor have I put a a wobble bolt through the end of it to see how much of the shank was left showing. So someone else would have to come into play on that because I've never owned 3 piece wheels.
1 Piece wheels, offsets are varied by how thick it is where the hub attaches. But it also depends if its a flat face wheel or a wheel with a lip. So in the case of mine (a flat face wheel) the offset like I said it determined by the thickness of it. SO... With a wheel like mine with a 38MM offset the thickness of it isn't very thick since its a midrange offset. Where was my rears with a 18MM offset, the hub is MUCH thicker because it has to be thicker to push the wheel out more. (Think of it as stacking spacers) So something with a midrange offset will have more shank showing at the end of the wheel than a low offset wheel because of the thickness. I hope you can understand what I am saying, I am sorry I don't have pictures to show you and imo its not worth it to take off my wheels and show you because that's so much work.
So basically it ALL depends mostly if its a 3 piece wheel or a 1 piece wheel and then it varies between after that a flat faced wheel or a wheel with a lip. Many factors come into play but your best bet is just to take the wheel off the car, put the lug bolt through the wheel and see how much you got to play with by looking at how much of the shank is showing behind the wheel.
But then again, I did an alignment on a friends car (this time it was a rabbit) and he was only able to achieve -3.5 camber I believe (nothing too substantial).
Every MKV that I've done an alignment on, each one gets a different amount of max camber. It also may be the fact that I am static and my camber settings are different than the rabbits because he was on air ride, where as my camber is always the same, never changes. Where as when he airs out, he achieves more natural camber from just airing it out.
And yes for the fronts you need camber plates, KSport, BG, Megan (****ty), and maybe 1 other company comes with camber plates. Whats nice also about the camber plates is that they are pillow ball mounts instead of bearing mounts. Meaning they rarely go out. I'm sure PSU knows what I'm talking about here since he came from the JDM world where everything is basically pillow ball mount.
I hope I helped some.
Measuring offset is the same whether it's a one piece or a three piece wheel...
It's the distance from the center of the wheel(no matter what lip/barrel size is - the exact center) to where the wheel mounts to the car's hub
It all depends on the thickness of the backing of the wheel - you need 7 full turns for the threads.
Can use - 1 to 2mm with wobble bolts, may vary.
For example, the stock 18" tire size is 225/40/18, but if you want to run an 8.5" wide wheel or greater (assuming that it fits with your suspension, offset, fender clearance, etc) and you don't want to stretch the 225 tires at all, then the best tire size would be a 255/35/18 to maintain the stock overall wheel and tire diameter of ~25.0"... 245/35/18 would also work and be within 0.2" of stock overall diameter
The two best sites that I like for calculating tire size and offset changes are:
From trying different wheel/tire sizes on my Mk4, I found that for a moderately lowered vehicle there was about 15-16mm of extra inner clearance available (compared to a stock offset 7" wide wheel), and there was about an additional 20-22mm of outer clearance available (compared to a stock offset 7" wide wheel)... However, at around +12-15mm of extension toward the fender, it was pretty flush in the front... 20-22mm of extension would put you flush in the rear, and have a slight poke in the front, but still not rub with slightly stretched tires... So the largest I could fit on my lowered Mk4 without rubbing, rolling the fenders or needing spacers was an 18"x8.5" +35 offset with a 225/40/18 tire... I'm thinking that a 245/35 would have fit as well, but i never tried...
If the same sort of room is available on a Mk5, but just with different stock offsets, then the widest wheel you can fit with no issues on a moderately lowered car should be an 8.5" wide wheel at +48mm offset.... I haven't played with any other rims on my Mk5 yet, but the first set that I'm planning to fit are Audi A4 wheels that are 17x7.5 with 45mm offset.
edit: this was just to clear the front strut... the back has more room available
Last edited by firstorbit84; 12-24-2011 at 12:18 AM.
I had 7mm spacers with my 5x114 rs's but took them off after a week or so because i only had 3 turns on my wobble bolts. it was very scary the wheel was barly on the hub. remember the threads are about 5mm in the hub so you need to calculate that into if you can run spacers with wobble bolts.
Why risk your life, other's lives, property damage etc for a "stance"??
I'd never run "wobble" bolts or any spacers more than 2-3mm without getting longer bolts...