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    Thread: The Ultimate MKV Wheel Fitment Guide

    1. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 04:36 AM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by Steeze_Its View Post
      You can fit a 9.5 in the front. Right now I'm running a 9.5 +30 and it's flush.

      The wheel is actually with a 38 offset but I had to toss a 8MM spacer so I can clear my struts. I could have just used a 5MM but 8MM seemed like a better choice to me.
      School me...

      How do spacers work with wobble bolts?

    2. Member anteramk5jetta's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:46 AM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by Steeze_Its View Post
      You can fit a 9.5 in the front. Right now I'm running a 9.5 +30 and it's flush.

      The wheel is actually with a 38 offset but I had to toss a 8MM spacer so I can clear my struts. I could have just used a 5MM but 8MM seemed like a better choice to me.

      I would seriously like to know how when I test fitted 18x9.5 et35 on the front, I had maybe 8th inch of clearance from the strut to the wheel and some serious poke

    3. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:49 AM #108
      Quote Originally Posted by anteramk5jetta View Post

      I would seriously like to know how when I test fitted 18x9.5 et35 on the front, I had maybe 8th inch of clearance from the strut to the wheel and some serious poke
      18"s are harder to pull off than 17"s.

      We tried a 19x9.5 +45 on a friend's car and it just barely hit the strut.

    4. Member anteramk5jetta's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:56 AM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      18"s are harder to pull off than 17"s.

      We tried a 19x9.5 +45 on a friend's car and it just barely hit the strut.
      Ah, I see. Thank you wise one

    5. Member bryangb's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:59 AM #110
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      School me...

      How do spacers work with wobble bolts?
      As long as the spacers were 5x112 they could work, right? I'm thinking about it in my head and I don't see why it wouldn't?
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    6. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 11:30 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by bryangb View Post
      As long as the spacers were 5x112 they could work, right? I'm thinking about it in my head and I don't see why it wouldn't?
      I guess. Basically just need longer wobble bolts I assume.

      I'm sure it's less complicated than I am making it out to be.

    7. Member bryangb's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 12:03 PM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      I guess. Basically just need longer wobble bolts I assume.

      I'm sure it's less complicated than I am making it out to be.
      Do they make longer ones? I've honestly never thought about it?
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    8. Member ninohale's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 12:06 PM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by bryangb View Post
      Do they make longer ones? I've honestly never thought about it?
      I've thought about it but haven't seen them.... at that point i guess adapters would come into play....

      Prob is adapters are usually at least 15mm
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      12-18-2011 12:37 PM #114
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    10. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 12:41 PM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by bryangb View Post
      Do they make longer ones? I've honestly never thought about it?
      I've never seen anything longer, which is why I was ogling over the fact that he was running spacers on 5x114.3 wheels.

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      12-18-2011 01:05 PM #116
      I'm really diggin this thread. Let's hope it kills some of the "Will it Fit?" threads. Really good resource for beginners. Maybe you should quantify "low" for people (AKA not 1.3" "sport" drop).

    12. Member ninohale's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 01:13 PM #117
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      I've never seen anything longer, which is why I was ogling over the fact that he was running spacers on 5x114.3 wheels.
      You can run up to a 3mm spacer with stock lug length. Anything larger and you will need longer lugs

      I would think that someone could make custom wobble bolts at a longer length... The concept is correct just may be a lot of work

      (I know you know this but generally speaking for everyone else )
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      12-18-2011 01:18 PM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      We tried a 19x9.5 +45 on a friend's car and it just barely hit the strut.
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    14. Member Thai-assasin's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 07:45 PM #119
      Whats the camber like on the MKV? Stock adjustments.

      I know my rears are at -2.2 right now. Whats the max?
      Can fronts be cambered stock? Max?
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    15. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 07:49 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by Thai-assasin View Post
      Whats the camber like on the MKV? Stock adjustments.

      I know my rears are at -2.2 right now. Whats the max?
      Can fronts be cambered stock? Max?
      You can get up to -4 degrees in the rear and you can adjust it on your own.

      For the front you will need camber plates or Audi lca's. I forget which Audi, but one set will net you -1 degree.

    16. Member Thai-assasin's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 08:17 PM #121
      Thank you Love the quick responses.
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    17. Member Steeze_Its's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 09:53 PM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      School me...

      How do spacers work with wobble bolts?
      Quote Originally Posted by ninohale View Post
      You can run up to a 3mm spacer with stock lug length. Anything larger and you will need longer lugs

      I would think that someone could make custom wobble bolts at a longer length... The concept is correct just may be a lot of work

      (I know you know this but generally speaking for everyone else )
      C'mon PSU, I expected more out of you buddy.

      Okay let me introduce you into how to determine if spacers work with wobble bolts or not.

      On MY setup, this is mine. I am running either a 5MM or an 8MM spacer WITH wobble bolts. (I think an 8MM)

      EACH wheel varies between the thickness of the spacer used. For example.

      3 Piece wheels, offsets are varied by determining where the face of the wheel sits by the barrel and lip size. So the back of the wheel where it contacts with the hub, the thickness of those are pretty usually the same size. I have never measured it, nor have I put a a wobble bolt through the end of it to see how much of the shank was left showing. So someone else would have to come into play on that because I've never owned 3 piece wheels.

      1 Piece wheels, offsets are varied by how thick it is where the hub attaches. But it also depends if its a flat face wheel or a wheel with a lip. So in the case of mine (a flat face wheel) the offset like I said it determined by the thickness of it. SO... With a wheel like mine with a 38MM offset the thickness of it isn't very thick since its a midrange offset. Where was my rears with a 18MM offset, the hub is MUCH thicker because it has to be thicker to push the wheel out more. (Think of it as stacking spacers) So something with a midrange offset will have more shank showing at the end of the wheel than a low offset wheel because of the thickness. I hope you can understand what I am saying, I am sorry I don't have pictures to show you and imo its not worth it to take off my wheels and show you because that's so much work.

      So basically it ALL depends mostly if its a 3 piece wheel or a 1 piece wheel and then it varies between after that a flat faced wheel or a wheel with a lip. Many factors come into play but your best bet is just to take the wheel off the car, put the lug bolt through the wheel and see how much you got to play with by looking at how much of the shank is showing behind the wheel.

      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      You can get up to -4 degrees in the rear and you can adjust it on your own.

      For the front you will need camber plates or Audi lca's. I forget which Audi, but one set will net you -1 degree.
      Not trying to say you are wrong but in MY experience, I was able to get my rear camber up to -5.5 before but that was way to much for me before and now I am running a -4.7.

      But then again, I did an alignment on a friends car (this time it was a rabbit) and he was only able to achieve -3.5 camber I believe (nothing too substantial).

      Every MKV that I've done an alignment on, each one gets a different amount of max camber. It also may be the fact that I am static and my camber settings are different than the rabbits because he was on air ride, where as my camber is always the same, never changes. Where as when he airs out, he achieves more natural camber from just airing it out.

      And yes for the fronts you need camber plates, KSport, BG, Megan (****ty), and maybe 1 other company comes with camber plates. Whats nice also about the camber plates is that they are pillow ball mounts instead of bearing mounts. Meaning they rarely go out. I'm sure PSU knows what I'm talking about here since he came from the JDM world where everything is basically pillow ball mount.

      I hope I helped some.

    18. Banned 2tnicrbbt's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:00 PM #123
      Will have ground control camber plates on my car soon.

    19. Member Steeze_Its's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:04 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by anteramk5jetta View Post

      I would seriously like to know how when I test fitted 18x9.5 et35 on the front, I had maybe 8th inch of clearance from the strut to the wheel and some serious poke
      I want to try an 18x9.5 on my car but I haven't found a set of 18's I like yet. I don't have poke mostly because of my camber plates and my "lowness" to add some natural camber.

    20. Member bryangb's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 10:50 PM #125
      Measuring offset is the same whether it's a one piece or a three piece wheel...

      It's the distance from the center of the wheel(no matter what lip/barrel size is - the exact center) to where the wheel mounts to the car's hub
      // Open Road Tuning
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    21. Member anteramk5jetta's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 11:36 PM #126
      Quote Originally Posted by Steeze_Its View Post
      I want to try an 18x9.5 on my car but I haven't found a set of 18's I like yet. I don't have poke mostly because of my camber plates and my "lowness" to add some natural camber.
      I know the 18x9.5 I was gonna trade my Antera's for were mint, brand new in the box. But when I test fitted, lets just say I could see that much poke even with some massive negative camber and rolled fenders, thats just me though

    22. Member Steeze_Its's Avatar
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      12-19-2011 12:03 AM #127
      Quote Originally Posted by bryangb View Post
      Measuring offset is the same whether it's a one piece or a three piece wheel...

      It's the distance from the center of the wheel(no matter what lip/barrel size is - the exact center) to where the wheel mounts to the car's hub
      Yes I know that but the thickness of the hub changes whether 1 Piece or 3 piece, so that determines how much of a spaced you can use.

    23. Member bryangb's Avatar
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      12-19-2011 12:05 AM #128
      Quote Originally Posted by Steeze_Its View Post
      Yes I know that but the thickness of the hub changes whether 1 Piece or 3 piece, so that determines how much of a spaced you can use.
      That doesn't change the offset of the wheel. It would only change the length of lug bolt required.
      // Open Road Tuning
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    24. Member Steeze_Its's Avatar
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      12-19-2011 12:33 AM #129
      Quote Originally Posted by bryangb View Post
      That doesn't change the offset of the wheel. It would only change the length of lug bolt required.
      Exactly what I was referring too. Idk if I worded my previous posts wrongly but that's what I was trying to say.

      But that's because the thickness of the hub from what offset the wheel is.

    25. 12-23-2011 05:19 AM #130
      The thickness of the hub can also vary based on whether the wheel is flat-faced (as you said) or concave.

    26. Member grundle's Avatar
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      12-23-2011 12:39 PM #131
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post
      School me...

      How do spacers work with wobble bolts?
      they dont....no one makes longer wobble bolts technically you can run a 2 or a 3 mm spacer with a wobble bolt if your feeling dangerous
      Quote Originally Posted by BigTimBigTurbo View Post
      and i would never in a million years not even for a billion dollars let any colored person near my area

    27. Member WaWaMKVDub's Avatar
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      12-23-2011 12:49 PM #132
      Quote Originally Posted by Steeze_Its View Post

      On MY setup, this is mine. I am running either a 5MM or an 8MM spacer WITH wobble bolts. (I think an 8MM)
      There's no way your running a 8mm with wobble bolts. I have ran a 5mm spacer on every set of wheels that I have used wobble bolts with, and have had no issues what so ever. It got just enough turns to be safe, so 8mm would definitely not be as safe, if it worked at all.
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      12-23-2011 12:55 PM #133
      It all depends on the thickness of the backing of the wheel - you need 7 full turns for the threads.

      Can use - 1 to 2mm with wobble bolts, may vary.

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      12-24-2011 01:16 AM #134
      Quote Originally Posted by PSU View Post

      45 series tires on 17" wheels.

      40 series tires on 18" wheels.

      35 series tires on 19" wheels.
      This is good general info for a normal width range of wheels (7"-8"), but depending on how wide your wheel is, and if you want any "stretch" look or not, these series tires may not always be what you want to run....

      For example, the stock 18" tire size is 225/40/18, but if you want to run an 8.5" wide wheel or greater (assuming that it fits with your suspension, offset, fender clearance, etc) and you don't want to stretch the 225 tires at all, then the best tire size would be a 255/35/18 to maintain the stock overall wheel and tire diameter of ~25.0"... 245/35/18 would also work and be within 0.2" of stock overall diameter

      The two best sites that I like for calculating tire size and offset changes are:
      http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
      http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

      From trying different wheel/tire sizes on my Mk4, I found that for a moderately lowered vehicle there was about 15-16mm of extra inner clearance available (compared to a stock offset 7" wide wheel), and there was about an additional 20-22mm of outer clearance available (compared to a stock offset 7" wide wheel)... However, at around +12-15mm of extension toward the fender, it was pretty flush in the front... 20-22mm of extension would put you flush in the rear, and have a slight poke in the front, but still not rub with slightly stretched tires... So the largest I could fit on my lowered Mk4 without rubbing, rolling the fenders or needing spacers was an 18"x8.5" +35 offset with a 225/40/18 tire... I'm thinking that a 245/35 would have fit as well, but i never tried...

      If the same sort of room is available on a Mk5, but just with different stock offsets, then the widest wheel you can fit with no issues on a moderately lowered car should be an 8.5" wide wheel at +48mm offset.... I haven't played with any other rims on my Mk5 yet, but the first set that I'm planning to fit are Audi A4 wheels that are 17x7.5 with 45mm offset.

      edit: this was just to clear the front strut... the back has more room available
      Last edited by firstorbit84; 12-24-2011 at 01:18 AM.

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      12-24-2011 01:38 AM #135
      I had 7mm spacers with my 5x114 rs's but took them off after a week or so because i only had 3 turns on my wobble bolts. it was very scary the wheel was barly on the hub. remember the threads are about 5mm in the hub so you need to calculate that into if you can run spacers with wobble bolts.

    31. Member firstorbit84's Avatar
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      12-24-2011 03:13 AM #136
      Quote Originally Posted by mkvgtiiiii View Post
      I had 7mm spacers with my 5x114 rs's but took them off after a week or so because i only had 3 turns on my wobble bolts. it was very scary the wheel was barly on the hub. remember the threads are about 5mm in the hub so you need to calculate that into if you can run spacers with wobble bolts.
      I've heard way too many bad stories of people being dumb with spacers and not long enough bolts... Remember folks: the wheels are the only thing holding up your 3000lb car!

      Why risk your life, other's lives, property damage etc for a "stance"??

      I'd never run "wobble" bolts or any spacers more than 2-3mm without getting longer bolts...

    32. Member WaWaMKVDub's Avatar
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      12-24-2011 03:39 AM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by firstorbit84 View Post
      I've heard way too many bad stories of people being dumb with spacers and not long enough bolts... Remember folks: the wheels are the only thing holding up your 3000lb car!

      Why risk your life, other's lives, property damage etc for a "stance"??

      I'd never run "wobble" bolts or any spacers more than 2-3mm without getting longer bolts...
      I ran 5mm with no issues. Did that with 6 different sets of wheels. I have never ever had a wheel come off or a bolt back out on me. /end that discussion.
      Quote Originally Posted by offfthaheeezay View Post
      Rims are for bicycles and Pontiacs.
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    33. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
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      12-26-2011 03:34 PM #138
      Apparently I start informative threads and don't know what I'm talking about. #csb

      Up.

      If anyone has anything else to add, chime in.

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      12-26-2011 03:49 PM #139
      I would like to add this:

      You're a cool dood.

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