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Jetta VI Rattle Fix Thread

236K views 408 replies 186 participants last post by  btavish81 
#1 · (Edited)
I would like to create a thread where we can post information on identifying the cause and providing a solution to common rattles in the MKVI Jetta. I'll keep the first post up to date as an index to individual posts describing the cause and/or solution to each problem.


  1. Fender subwoofer, rear deck
    Cause - Rear plastic deck vibrates
    Solution - Tennis ball under rear deck

  2. Windsheild/dash at high speed
    Cause 1 - Loose plastic rain/splashguard
    Solution 1 - Make sure the tabs that hold it down are secure
    Cause 2 - Leaf in rain/splashguard drain rattling in wind
    Solution 2 - Keep rain/splashguard free of leaves/debris

  3. Trunk rattle when going over bumps
    Cause - Spare tire not secured
    Solution - Secure spare tire

  4. Trunk rattle
    Cause - Rear seat release cable
    Solution - Wrap and secure cable

  5. Snapping/cracking from instrument panel
    Cause 1 - Missing screw in dash from factory
    Solution 1 - Dealer installed missing screw
    Cause 2 - Squeaky trim
    Solution 2 - Add styrofoam

  6. "Rustling leaves" when accelerating
    Cause - Needs holding rod clip from dealer
    Solution - Have dealer fix
    More Info - Thread detailing this issue

  7. Driver or passenger door rattles (multiple)
    Cause 1 - LED security light cylinder plastic housing
    Solution 1 - Foam tape (Full thread)
    No cause 2 found -
    No solution 2 found -
    Seems there is no single cause or solution to these rattles. Suggested dynamat or other soundproofing

  8. Snapping/cracking, head unit area
    Cause - HU frame makes contact with HVAC frame
    Solution - Felt pads (Full how-to)
    One owner had his entire HU replaced

  9. Creaking Dead Pedal
    Cause - None found
    Solution - None found
 
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#147 ·
I went to my dealership this week to have the Mirror whistle and the dash cracking issues resolved. I got the car back - they had to order the part for the mirror - which should fix the problem and they kinda fixed the cracking noise !!! Only does it every once in a while instead of every crack in the pavement WOOHOO...

The only thing that this has caused is : now that the cracking is not there to make me go crazy, the buzzing from the security light is now driving me IN-SANE !!!! Rediculously insane...Need to order dynamat to do my doors soon :) (I kno it wont fix the security light but I do not want to take my doors apart twice...so i'll wait till I do the two things at once)... Just bought a new house and will have a garage :D so I'll do it then :D YAY
 
#148 ·
I was able to fix the security light buzz by doing the following:

Find a soft plastic pry tool - something with a fine edge on it but that isnt hard enough to damage the plastic trim

Cut out a small circle of felt that's just as big as the security light housing that sits on the door sill.
Cut out a small circle in the middle of the felt - you should now have a ring. Cut the ring on one end so that it looks like a "C" but without much gap.

Gently pry up the housing - it will come up about 1-2mm - just enough to push the felt ring under it.

Work your way around the security light slowly prying And pushing in felt. Eventually it will be tight and sitting on a layer of felt.

Worked great for me!
 
#150 ·
2011 SEL instrument rattle fix

Hi guys, very useful tread! I just want to add my experience; it might help someone to save some time and some elbow grease. I have a 2011 SEL, stick, bought it new. I had quite a few cars, among them a MK2 Jetta, an A6, so I’m not newbie when it comes to VWs, and I’m also mechanically inclined – I changed the CV boot on all of my vwag cars…
My Jetta started to make a rattling noise after a month or so, coming from behind the instrument cluster, close to the A pillar, under the windscreen area. At the 3 month courtesy check I mentioned it at the dealership; when I got the car back I was told that they couldn’t find anything, except for a loose driver side vanity light, which they fixed. The rattle went away for a week or so than it came back. I knew I had to fix it myself, if I take it back to the dealer, unless there is a TSB, they won’t fix it, just will make things worse – nothing personal against my dealership, they are fine, but just that’s the way it is, they will not spend countless hours chasing rabbits around. But instead of just tearing into the dashboard, I started to watch discussions like this one, figured I’m not the only one, and sooner or later someone will find a fix. Anyhow, after this threat got longer, with lots of good info, I decided it’s time to dig in. So on a quiet afternoon I removed the instrument cluster trim, then the cluster, applied weather stripping foam to all the suspected places: between the cluster and dashboard, inside the trim where it touches the clear plastic, under the trim, next to the clips and so on. I also padded the dashboard endplate panel, and fuse block door. While the instrument cluster was out I also checked for missing screws, all OK. Put everything back together, felt pretty good.
I took the car out for a spin, but of course, the noise is still there, F@#$! :mad:. So I driving around, and I started again touching everything in my reach to see if I can quiet things down. Since the sun was out, I had the visor down, and I’m tapping and touching everything I can reach, when for some unknown reason I touch he vanity light, and as long as I’m holding it, the rattle is gone. Even that there is no rattle, I still can’t believe to my own ears, because when I let the light go he noise comes back, and I swear it comes from behind the instrument cluster. I touch the light, no noise; let it go, the noise is back. :screwy: Well f%$# it, I go home, pop the light out. (As a side note, I know this car was cheapened a lot, but you really starting noticing it under the skin, the vanity light in my very first car was far higher quality, and that car was Skoda 110L! google it)
Well, what I found is that the metal mounting clip at the end of the light was loose inside the plastic housing; I have no idea how it was supposed to stay tight, but I pushed a straightened paper staple between the clip and the housing to tighten things up, and clipped off the staple sticking out. (I only used a staple because that is what I had handy, and it fit perfectly).
Anyway, my car is –still- rattle free for two weeks now, and no question that the light was my issue.
I just want to share my experience, because I was 100% sure the rattle is coming from behind the dashboard, and despite all the evidence, it was still hard for me to accept that I was looking in the wrong place all along. Now, it doesn’t mean that all rattle from behind the instrument cluster is originating from the vanity light - unfortunately the way our car is made guaranties many more Easter egg hunts – but use my story as a cautionary tale, and don’t blindly follow your ears!

Many thanks for all the previous contributors! :wave:
 
#152 ·
Buy it anyway?

Ok back from the dealership. I absolutely LOVE the GLI!! I have a theory; You think you love your cat until you get a dog, you think you love your dog, until you fall in love with your significant other,you think you love your significant other, until you have kids...Now you finally know how deep love can be....Anyway, I guess I can add one more thing to my list. You think you love your car until your car is a VW. :thumbup:

The rattles still concern me and the overall quality/reliability is still a major concern....But now understand.

I am leaning heavily towards the 2013 GLI.
 
#153 ·
Alright I haven't seen or heard anyone talk about this so here it is...

Lately every time I go over bump or generously accelerate, my headliner creeks and rattles. It sounds almost like the top of the car is not attached to the bottom. It's annoying as **** so I will be taking it in to my dealer this week.

It's also a 2012 GLI with 7,8XX miles on it. Unacceptable for any car with that amount of miles.
 
#154 ·
Everything in my 28 grand car rattles. Only have had it for a month and 2,000 miles. I wish my lease ended tomorrow, its disgusting. I've had it in twice, once for rattles(We adjusted things, or so they say), second time for my already failing water pump, and this time "we didn't hear any rattles"...woof.
 
#155 ·
Clicking Noise

My 2011 Jetta SE 6sp Auto has delveloped a new noise. When at a stop/standstill, and you press on the accelerator, a CLICKING sound is made, within a second of accelerating. I was able to replicate the sound consistantly in my driveway by just stepping on and off the accelerator repeatedly. I then put the car in reverse, and stepped on and off the BRAKE pedal repeatedly and the click noise happend as well. The noise will also happen while the car is moving, and you step on accelerator so that the car downshifts, say from 5th to 3rd gear. Again, the click noise happens within a second after the downshift. Any feedback on this would be appreicated! The car will be going in for some warranty work this week, and I don't want to get the typical response from the dealer of "That is normal". Thanks!
 
#156 ·
Well, I was actually able to figure out the click noise. The driver seat was not completely locked into position. There is one area in the seat track in which the seat would not fully lock into place. The initial forward or reverse motion of the car caused the seat to move just enough to make the noise.
 
#157 ·
Mirror Whistle on 2011 Jetta SE 2.5

I have been to the dealer a few times regarding the outside mirror whistling at speed and have been told that there is not a fix for this. Anyone else have this issue?

* Also had the headliner replaced due to C pillar trim
* Numerous rattles including drivers side rear door interior door panel rattles when door is closed.
 
#158 ·
There is a thread titled "Solved! side mirror whistling noise". There are some good pictures there showing where the noise is actually coming from. I had the mirror whistle issue as well on both mirrors. I informed my dealer and they said there was a TSB bulletin to correct the problem. What they do is replace the exterior mirror caps (the black part housing only) The new part actually fills in the gap shown in the pictures. My invoice said that they performed TSB 66-11-03. Have been driving for a couple of weeks and no wind noise. Hope this helps! Note: Removing the mirror glass is tricky, according to the dealer. They indicated that sometimes they break during the removal process.
 
#161 ·
With all these problems, and some fixes listed.

Is it worth getting this car still? I thought I had finally made up my kind to get one, but reading this thread and the others where people describe the headliner falling part or the C-pilar, has me doubting this car now.

I'm not mechanically inclined to do 3/4 of these fixes, but do hate rattles. I know I can also go with a Honda , but they are boring to drive and not well equipped for the price.
 
#162 ·
If you are annoyed with Rattles and aren't capable of fixing them on your own, it might cost you many visits to the dealership to get them figured out. Some have had better luck, I'm not one of them. The car mechanically still is very fun to drive and for me the rattles are the only negative. I personally would not rebuy the car but thats just me
 
#165 ·
Buzzing/vibration from dash area - remember to check your rearview mirror!

I have a GLI Autobahn 6 MT that has been driving me nuts! Love the way the car drives but was getting a terrible buzzing/vibration sound from what seemed like the center of dash especially when accelerating hard from about 3800-4800 RPM. I took the car in at 1782 miles and the sound was diagnosed as "module for noise performance in rain tray rattling." VW of Princeton reinstalled and properly secured the module and "could not verify noise after fix." Got the car back and indeed the noise was greatly diminished. However, a buzzing/vibration sound persisted.

I'd done the usual pressing on interior panels while repeatedly accelerating over and over in 2nd gear. Couldn't find the sound until I reached up and squeezed the rearview mirror and the sound stopped - and stayed away. It returned a few days later, I repeated the squeezing of the mirror, and the sound disappeared. I held the mirror lightly and it does vibrate significantly upon acceleration, so I know I've found the problem. Sounds aren't always coming from where they seem I learned. I've not decided whether to take the mirror apart and put it back together with tightly or simply have a new mirror installed by VW.

I hope this brings some peace to another driver who might be on the edge of insanity due to the same problem!
 
#166 ·
Looking for help on these rattles:

1-In below 40deg weather, when you turn on the ac/heater blower, there is a very audible ticking noise in rhythm with the speed of the blower. Above setting 2, the blower is so loud you can't here the ticking but it's there. Anyone deal with this before?

2- there is a rattle from the passenger side seat lift lever area when cranked all the way down. Raise it one pump and leave hair of tension on it and it stops.

3- passenger side ac vent near door rattles ( or I think it's that)

What you got?:beer:
 
#167 ·
My rattles are fixed

Overhead rattle: I seriously thought it was the sunroof shade, because it makes a cracking sound if I put light pressure on the aft portion of it. First time I went to the dealer, they said it was my sunglasses in the compartment. I was pissed off beyond belief. I'm not that dumb. I took it back this week and they kept the car for two days. They gave me a loaner at least. It was the latching mechanism for the sunglasses compartment. They replaced.

Dash rattle: They replace the ac vent panel. The piece that goes from the left side of the driver, sits on top of instrument cluster and end in the middle with the two vents. Problem fixed.

Driver door rattle: They must have taken my door apart 10 times. Something was loose in the window motor area and the the silver trim piece on the inside. They weren't very explicit on that.
 
#172 ·
I didn't see this specifically addressed in the thread so far, pardon me if it has already been discussed. Initially I had the Fender subwoofer rattle from the rear deck. I immediately shoved some tennis balls up there and it was fine.

I took the car in for its 10k service a few weeks ago, and they said there was a TSB about the subwoofer and they would be addressing it. I mentioned my tennis ball fix and they said no problem, we'll just take them out and leave them in the car. Since I got the car back, the rattle is worse than ever. I "re-installed" my tennis balls but now I can't seem to stop the rattle/vibrations. Anyone else been through this, and have any words of wisdom? I always hesitate to bring cars to dealers over rattles because it always turns into a time-sucking wild goose chase.
 
#174 ·
Hello all, wanted to update you it's been a while. I finally got around to taking in my car to the dealership for my 10K service and they discovered the cause to the overwhelming majority of my rattle problems. I had had my windshield replaced and the plastic cowl which sits below windshield/encases the wipers etc was not reattached properly. I have my suspicions that it was never attached properly in the first place as these noises predate the replacement windshield, but the sounds definitely had gotten worse since then. Since they bolted it back in place, the noises in my doors went away, the noise in the glove compartment went away, and what I thought was a speaker rattle has too gone away.

I'm very pleased with what was done so I'd suggest you all look at that as the sound definitely travelled to all different parts of the car.

Only sound still in the car is the center console squeak which has currently been fixed by sticking some business cards in there a seen earlier in this thread. If that's the worst I have I think I can tolerate it.

Thanks
 
#175 ·
GLI Dash and Windshield Vibrations? Unplug the "Soundaktor"!

My GLI has been plagued with worsening buzzing and vibration sounds from the dash area since it was new. Seems a little worse every day. I stumbled upon a post about unplugging the "Soundaktor" in a GTI and found several before and after videos on YouTube for the GTI. After doing a little Googling found that the GLI is also equipped with the electronic gizmo.

For those unaware, the Soundaktor consists of an electronic module that is wired to what looks like a small speaker that is bolted to the firewall area just under the cowling that is beneath the windshield wipers. This is the device that is responsible for generating the low rumbling sounds in the GLI, which I've never liked.

In 5-10 minutes, I removed the foam molding that secures the cowling, lifted the cowling, reached in to the speaker module and unplugged it. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The GLI still has a sporty sound, but is much more natural and all of the low-pitched rumbling is gone, along with most of the dash vibrations.

If you're going to do this, be sure to pinch the bottom of the plug where the wire attaches to the speaker, and it will come right out. If you have to use force, you're doing something wrong.

I HIGHLY recommend giving this a try and think you'll like the new sound of your GLI. If I have time, I'll post a video somewhere.
 
#176 ·
I apologize if this has been mentioned before or not but i am hearing a sound that resembles styrofoam rubbing against another piece of styrofoam coming from what seems to be the steering column. anyone else have this???
 
#178 ·
creaking door area

Yes, I know its been addressed...sort of. Creaking doors syndrome occurs mostly when temps fluctuate alot we know. I took off myd oor panel today, had a look see what, if anything could be contributing to the creak on acceleration or over bumps as the car flexes.

I foam taped every wire every 2 or 3 inches, where it might touch either the plastic or the metal door. I foam taped strips either side of every place a bolt or clip is attaching the panel. I foam taped long strips all along the edge of the inside plastic door panel, and pushed the remaining sides down. So now there is NO plastic touching or rubbing against the metal door. I foam taped the red security light blinker, over the arms and the connector. I put a few pieces of packaging foam where others are putting sound deadener.

Popped it back together, took a run in the car whilst dripping with sweat(I decided to do this on a 30 degree day of course) . Initially, and until I do more driving, the creak is gone, from the driver side door. It remains in the passenger side door, the one not foam taped yet.
 
#179 ·
Update

So, after a few more drives, and within 30+ weather (Celsius) heres my observation.
Did my foam tape work-over work?..YES..and NO.

Seems driver door creaks less for sure, but the creaks that do happen, happen when my passenger door doesnt creak, and when my passenger door creaks ( albeit less ), my driver side doesn't.

If the temperature outside the car is consistent with the inside, less creaks, but if inside is hotter than outside or outside is hotter than inside, expansion contraction is the observation.
hmmmm...:what:

I think it might be from the front of the door where the mirror is mounted, the plastic corner piece in how it contacts the plastic panel?.
 
#181 ·
LETS FIX that god-awful CREAKING from door areas

I CANT TELL U WHAT AN ABSOLUTE RELIEF IT IS TO HAVE THIS HORRIBLE NOISE GO AWAY!

After thinking the creaking that increases in loudness and regularity along with higher temperatures is due to the door panels lack-lustre plastic, and proceeding to FOAM TAPE every area that comes into contact with the metal part of the door in an attempt to fix...to somewhat disappointing results, I think I fixed the issue.

Somewhere I read on here to use vinyl/Rubber conditioner, as may have been pointed out originally be a dealer rep when the creaking area from B pillar areas surfaced, they had stated "its the newness or rigidity of the weatherstripping/seals" and will soften over time lessening the creaking noises.

I also read somewhere that some consider it a nonsense excuse in a mere attempt to pass off a customer. Perhaps we are wanting better plastics or something?...I understand where that comes from though.

So, Yesterday, In 34 degree celcius weather, whilst I was dripping with sweat, and the creaking noises were at their worst. I picked up a bottle/can of weatherstripping rubber conditioner:

I first sprayed a bit in every hole ( there's a small, 2-3 mm hole every 5 or 6 cm to let moisture out I guess) in the weatherstripping that is attached to the car's door frame, and once done on each door, I squished it around inside the weatherstripping so good and soggy. Then proceeded to spray ON the weatherstripping, and rubbed it down with a sponge/pad. I then used a saturated sponge to wipe down all the rubber in the window frame (when you inside the car with the door shut (Phew...HOT!, get your windows down for this) You can then coat/saturate all the rubber from inside, especially the vertical rubber strip at the back of the window frame in the door. I did this, plus squirted a bit INSIDE the rubber strip, by lifting up a little on the edge and spraying inside, squishing it around a bit (this might make it a bit slippery and the strip could come off, so be careful). Look for any area that there is vinyl/rubber type trim that might be folded, or has a lip and lift that lip up, and squirt a bit inside, using your finger to distribute.

I also sprayed a bit inside the window vinyl/rubber sleeves as the window goes into when cranked up shut ( I cant think of any other word besides cranked up here, I know, we all have power windows) . I also , with a dampened sponge with the rubber conditioner, rubbed all vinyl/rubber sleeves where the window makes contact, just wiping it inside and outside. I also wiped down the rubber between the doors from the outside with the doors open. Basically, look for any rubber seal , doors open/shut/ windows down or up, inside and out, especially within the B pillar area. I did all four door areas.
Now, Down to about half a can left. I wiped off excess that had dripped, went over the areas I injected in the main weatherstripping, squishing it through with my thumb. (feels a little bit greasy now). Let it dry/stay overnight.
Woke up this morning, already 25 degrees out, and humid, drove to work, and not a PEEP, SQUEAK or CREAK.

Someone in this forum said here earlier, "Don't underestimate the difference rubber conditioner can make on the weatherstripping/seals". They are very firm, and designed i guess to super tight tolerances. So when the temps increase the rubber does expand, it has a noisy result in many instances, as the rubber has nowhere to budge. The more supple rubber, at least now has some give.

To determine if your creak IS the W-stripping; Sit inside your car, door closed. Push with your fingers/hand the vertical rubber strip at the back of the driver side window, so it flexes. I bet you'll hear that wonderful creaking noise!:D
 
#182 ·
I CANT TELL U WHAT AN ABSOLUTE RELIEF IT IS TO HAVE THIS HORRIBLE NOISE GO AWAY!

After thinking the creaking that increases in loudness and regularity along with higher temperatures is due to the door panels lack-lustre plastic, and proceeding to FOAM TAPE every area that comes into contact with the metal part of the door in an attempt to fix...to somewhat disappointing results, I think I fixed the issue.

Somewhere I read on here to use vinyl/Rubber conditioner, as may have been pointed out originally be a dealer rep when the creaking area from B pillar areas surfaced, they had stated "its the newness or rigidity of the weatherstripping/seals" and will soften over time lessening the creaking noises.

I also read somewhere that some consider it a nonsense excuse in a mere attempt to pass off a customer. Perhaps we are wanting better plastics or something?...I understand where that comes from though.

So, Yesterday, In 34 degree celcius weather, whilst I was dripping with sweat, and the creaking noises were at their worst. I picked up a bottle/can of weatherstripping rubber conditioner:

I first sprayed a bit in every hole ( there's a small, 2-3 mm hole every 5 or 6 cm to let moisture out I guess) in the weatherstripping that is attached to the car's door frame, and once done on each door, I squished it around inside the weatherstripping so good and soggy. Then proceeded to spray ON the weatherstripping, and rubbed it down with a sponge/pad. I then used a saturated sponge to wipe down all the rubber in the window frame (when you inside the car with the door shut (Phew...HOT!, get your windows down for this) You can then coat/saturate all the rubber from inside, especially the vertical rubber strip at the back of the window frame in the door. I did this, plus squirted a bit INSIDE the rubber strip, by lifting up a little on the edge and spraying inside, squishing it around a bit (this might make it a bit slippery and the strip could come off, so be careful). Look for any area that there is vinyl/rubber type trim that might be folded, or has a lip and lift that lip up, and squirt a bit inside, using your finger to distribute.

I also sprayed a bit inside the window vinyl/rubber sleeves as the window goes into when cranked up shut ( I cant think of any other word besides cranked up here, I know, we all have power windows) . I also , with a dampened sponge with the rubber conditioner, rubbed all vinyl/rubber sleeves where the window makes contact, just wiping it inside and outside. I also wiped down the rubber between the doors from the outside with the doors open. Basically, look for any rubber seal , doors open/shut/ windows down or up, inside and out, especially within the B pillar area. I did all four door areas.
Now, Down to about half a can left. I wiped off excess that had dripped, went over the areas I injected in the main weatherstripping, squishing it through with my thumb. (feels a little bit greasy now). Let it dry/stay overnight.
Woke up this morning, already 25 degrees out, and humid, drove to work, and not a PEEP, SQUEAK or CREAK.

Someone in this forum said here earlier, "Don't underestimate the difference rubber conditioner can make on the weatherstripping/seals". They are very firm, and designed i guess to super tight tolerances. So when the temps increase the rubber does expand, it has a noisy result in many instances, as the rubber has nowhere to budge. The more supple rubber, at least now has some give.

To determine if your creak IS the W-stripping; Sit inside your car, door closed. Push with your fingers/hand the vertical rubber strip at the back of the driver side window, so it flexes. I bet you'll hear that wonderful creaking noise!:D
Did you take pictures ? Im so confused as to where you all put that grease.
 
#184 ·
I saw on the OP that there was a rattle issue from the front engine when accelerating but I'm getting it when I start up my car. It doesn't happen every time but it does happen maybe 1 in 5 ignitions.

Also when I go from a dead stop it has a rattle too. Also not every time but once in a while.

I made an appointment with the dealership to have it checked out on Thursday so I'm wondering if other people's issues could be the same as mine. Even tho it happens at different times.

I have a 2012 GLI DSG Base model
 
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