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    Thread: Jetta VI Rattle Fix Thread

    1. Semi-n00b
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      06-27-2012 11:10 PM #176
      My GLI has been plagued with worsening buzzing and vibration sounds from the dash area since it was new. Seems a little worse every day. I stumbled upon a post about unplugging the "Soundaktor" in a GTI and found several before and after videos on YouTube for the GTI. After doing a little Googling found that the GLI is also equipped with the electronic gizmo.

      For those unaware, the Soundaktor consists of an electronic module that is wired to what looks like a small speaker that is bolted to the firewall area just under the cowling that is beneath the windshield wipers. This is the device that is responsible for generating the low rumbling sounds in the GLI, which I've never liked.

      In 5-10 minutes, I removed the foam molding that secures the cowling, lifted the cowling, reached in to the speaker module and unplugged it. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The GLI still has a sporty sound, but is much more natural and all of the low-pitched rumbling is gone, along with most of the dash vibrations.

      If you're going to do this, be sure to pinch the bottom of the plug where the wire attaches to the speaker, and it will come right out. If you have to use force, you're doing something wrong.

      I HIGHLY recommend giving this a try and think you'll like the new sound of your GLI. If I have time, I'll post a video somewhere.

    2. Member W220s's Avatar
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      06-28-2012 10:43 PM #177
      I apologize if this has been mentioned before or not but i am hearing a sound that resembles styrofoam rubbing against another piece of styrofoam coming from what seems to be the steering column. anyone else have this???
      LowKulture

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      07-05-2012 06:38 PM #178
      Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
      I think I found a fix for the Head Unit / HVAC snapping and Cracking.

      Lustinator is correct that the noise comes from the gaps between the dash and the center console area. Before I tried spraying lube in those cracks, I figured I would try this:



      I cut up a business card and folded it up a few times, and wedged it between the front gap between the dash and center console (Deep into the gap) I had to wedge it in there with a plastic pry bar. Since then it hasn't snapped or cracked.

      Since this looks like crap, I am working on a better solution.

      What I did was get a large black plastic zip tie, pried open the gap and stuck it in there. Then I cut off the end that is sticking out so you couldn't see it, but left enough hanging out of the front so it doesn't fall in.

      So far, this has been working for me. Now to tackle all of the other rattles!
      YUP!...you got it, I did exactly the same thing a while back after fishing for where snaps/rattles were coming from. Baiscally, I think, they made the components to VW specs/tolerances according to cars that utilize the soft touch plastics, so naturally, when the harder plastic or "thinner" plastics parts come in close prozimity or "touch" at all, theres no give like with the soft plastic parts, hence: snap, crackle, pop!. I used two strips of black leather in the spots you stuffed zip ties into!, I think I might however, take the centre console out, and attach felt tape or something similkar to the entire top rim of the console wher it might touch the underside of the centre dash, perhaps, mimicking the way it might contact IF soft touch plastics were used in the first place.

      I think If VW offered a "Soft touch" retrofit for major inside components: ie dash, door cards, centre console, for a reasonable price, I wud definitely sign-up.

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      07-07-2012 08:05 PM #179
      Yes, I know its been addressed...sort of. Creaking doors syndrome occurs mostly when temps fluctuate alot we know. I took off myd oor panel today, had a look see what, if anything could be contributing to the creak on acceleration or over bumps as the car flexes.

      I foam taped every wire every 2 or 3 inches, where it might touch either the plastic or the metal door. I foam taped strips either side of every place a bolt or clip is attaching the panel. I foam taped long strips all along the edge of the inside plastic door panel, and pushed the remaining sides down. So now there is NO plastic touching or rubbing against the metal door. I foam taped the red security light blinker, over the arms and the connector. I put a few pieces of packaging foam where others are putting sound deadener.

      Popped it back together, took a run in the car whilst dripping with sweat(I decided to do this on a 30 degree day of course) . Initially, and until I do more driving, the creak is gone, from the driver side door. It remains in the passenger side door, the one not foam taped yet.

    5. Member
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      07-09-2012 11:10 AM #180
      So, after a few more drives, and within 30+ weather (Celsius) heres my observation.
      Did my foam tape work-over work?..YES..and NO.

      Seems driver door creaks less for sure, but the creaks that do happen, happen when my passenger door doesnt creak, and when my passenger door creaks ( albeit less ), my driver side doesn't.

      If the temperature outside the car is consistent with the inside, less creaks, but if inside is hotter than outside or outside is hotter than inside, expansion contraction is the observation.
      hmmmm...

      I think it might be from the front of the door where the mirror is mounted, the plastic corner piece in how it contacts the plastic panel?.

    6. Member
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      07-10-2012 12:21 AM #181
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      YUP!...you got it, I did exactly the same thing a while back after fishing for where snaps/rattles were coming from. Baiscally, I think, they made the components to VW specs/tolerances according to cars that utilize the soft touch plastics, so naturally, when the harder plastic or "thinner" plastics parts come in close prozimity or "touch" at all, theres no give like with the soft plastic parts, hence: snap, crackle, pop!. I used two strips of black leather in the spots you stuffed zip ties into!, I think I might however, take the centre console out, and attach felt tape or something similkar to the entire top rim of the console wher it might touch the underside of the centre dash, perhaps, mimicking the way it might contact IF soft touch plastics were used in the first place.

      I think If VW offered a "Soft touch" retrofit for major inside components: ie dash, door cards, centre console, for a reasonable price, I wud definitely sign-up.
      The MK4 uses two 2x1/4 inch long felt strips in the location you mention btw it's a hard plastic to hard plastic contact as well.

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      07-16-2012 03:51 PM #182
      I CANT TELL U WHAT AN ABSOLUTE RELIEF IT IS TO HAVE THIS HORRIBLE NOISE GO AWAY!

      After thinking the creaking that increases in loudness and regularity along with higher temperatures is due to the door panels lack-lustre plastic, and proceeding to FOAM TAPE every area that comes into contact with the metal part of the door in an attempt to fix...to somewhat disappointing results, I think I fixed the issue.

      Somewhere I read on here to use vinyl/Rubber conditioner, as may have been pointed out originally be a dealer rep when the creaking area from B pillar areas surfaced, they had stated "its the newness or rigidity of the weatherstripping/seals" and will soften over time lessening the creaking noises.

      I also read somewhere that some consider it a nonsense excuse in a mere attempt to pass off a customer. Perhaps we are wanting better plastics or something?...I understand where that comes from though.

      So, Yesterday, In 34 degree celcius weather, whilst I was dripping with sweat, and the creaking noises were at their worst. I picked up a bottle/can of weatherstripping rubber conditioner:

      I first sprayed a bit in every hole ( there's a small, 2-3 mm hole every 5 or 6 cm to let moisture out I guess) in the weatherstripping that is attached to the car's door frame, and once done on each door, I squished it around inside the weatherstripping so good and soggy. Then proceeded to spray ON the weatherstripping, and rubbed it down with a sponge/pad. I then used a saturated sponge to wipe down all the rubber in the window frame (when you inside the car with the door shut (Phew...HOT!, get your windows down for this) You can then coat/saturate all the rubber from inside, especially the vertical rubber strip at the back of the window frame in the door. I did this, plus squirted a bit INSIDE the rubber strip, by lifting up a little on the edge and spraying inside, squishing it around a bit (this might make it a bit slippery and the strip could come off, so be careful). Look for any area that there is vinyl/rubber type trim that might be folded, or has a lip and lift that lip up, and squirt a bit inside, using your finger to distribute.

      I also sprayed a bit inside the window vinyl/rubber sleeves as the window goes into when cranked up shut ( I cant think of any other word besides cranked up here, I know, we all have power windows) . I also , with a dampened sponge with the rubber conditioner, rubbed all vinyl/rubber sleeves where the window makes contact, just wiping it inside and outside. I also wiped down the rubber between the doors from the outside with the doors open. Basically, look for any rubber seal , doors open/shut/ windows down or up, inside and out, especially within the B pillar area. I did all four door areas.
      Now, Down to about half a can left. I wiped off excess that had dripped, went over the areas I injected in the main weatherstripping, squishing it through with my thumb. (feels a little bit greasy now). Let it dry/stay overnight.
      Woke up this morning, already 25 degrees out, and humid, drove to work, and not a PEEP, SQUEAK or CREAK.

      Someone in this forum said here earlier, "Don't underestimate the difference rubber conditioner can make on the weatherstripping/seals". They are very firm, and designed i guess to super tight tolerances. So when the temps increase the rubber does expand, it has a noisy result in many instances, as the rubber has nowhere to budge. The more supple rubber, at least now has some give.

      To determine if your creak IS the W-stripping; Sit inside your car, door closed. Push with your fingers/hand the vertical rubber strip at the back of the driver side window, so it flexes. I bet you'll hear that wonderful creaking noise!

    8. Member nicolas.gagnon's Avatar
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      07-17-2012 02:07 AM #183
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      I CANT TELL U WHAT AN ABSOLUTE RELIEF IT IS TO HAVE THIS HORRIBLE NOISE GO AWAY!

      After thinking the creaking that increases in loudness and regularity along with higher temperatures is due to the door panels lack-lustre plastic, and proceeding to FOAM TAPE every area that comes into contact with the metal part of the door in an attempt to fix...to somewhat disappointing results, I think I fixed the issue.

      Somewhere I read on here to use vinyl/Rubber conditioner, as may have been pointed out originally be a dealer rep when the creaking area from B pillar areas surfaced, they had stated "its the newness or rigidity of the weatherstripping/seals" and will soften over time lessening the creaking noises.

      I also read somewhere that some consider it a nonsense excuse in a mere attempt to pass off a customer. Perhaps we are wanting better plastics or something?...I understand where that comes from though.

      So, Yesterday, In 34 degree celcius weather, whilst I was dripping with sweat, and the creaking noises were at their worst. I picked up a bottle/can of weatherstripping rubber conditioner:

      I first sprayed a bit in every hole ( there's a small, 2-3 mm hole every 5 or 6 cm to let moisture out I guess) in the weatherstripping that is attached to the car's door frame, and once done on each door, I squished it around inside the weatherstripping so good and soggy. Then proceeded to spray ON the weatherstripping, and rubbed it down with a sponge/pad. I then used a saturated sponge to wipe down all the rubber in the window frame (when you inside the car with the door shut (Phew...HOT!, get your windows down for this) You can then coat/saturate all the rubber from inside, especially the vertical rubber strip at the back of the window frame in the door. I did this, plus squirted a bit INSIDE the rubber strip, by lifting up a little on the edge and spraying inside, squishing it around a bit (this might make it a bit slippery and the strip could come off, so be careful). Look for any area that there is vinyl/rubber type trim that might be folded, or has a lip and lift that lip up, and squirt a bit inside, using your finger to distribute.

      I also sprayed a bit inside the window vinyl/rubber sleeves as the window goes into when cranked up shut ( I cant think of any other word besides cranked up here, I know, we all have power windows) . I also , with a dampened sponge with the rubber conditioner, rubbed all vinyl/rubber sleeves where the window makes contact, just wiping it inside and outside. I also wiped down the rubber between the doors from the outside with the doors open. Basically, look for any rubber seal , doors open/shut/ windows down or up, inside and out, especially within the B pillar area. I did all four door areas.
      Now, Down to about half a can left. I wiped off excess that had dripped, went over the areas I injected in the main weatherstripping, squishing it through with my thumb. (feels a little bit greasy now). Let it dry/stay overnight.
      Woke up this morning, already 25 degrees out, and humid, drove to work, and not a PEEP, SQUEAK or CREAK.

      Someone in this forum said here earlier, "Don't underestimate the difference rubber conditioner can make on the weatherstripping/seals". They are very firm, and designed i guess to super tight tolerances. So when the temps increase the rubber does expand, it has a noisy result in many instances, as the rubber has nowhere to budge. The more supple rubber, at least now has some give.

      To determine if your creak IS the W-stripping; Sit inside your car, door closed. Push with your fingers/hand the vertical rubber strip at the back of the driver side window, so it flexes. I bet you'll hear that wonderful creaking noise!
      Did you take pictures ? Im so confused as to where you all put that grease.
      2011 Volkswagen Jetta TDI Comfortline w/ Multimedia, Sunroof and DSG.
      2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI GLS w/ Leather, Sunroof and 5SPD.

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      07-17-2012 11:07 AM #184
      Quote Originally Posted by nicolas.gagnon View Post
      Did you take pictures ? Im so confused as to where you all put that grease.
      Open your doors. Stand back and look carefully at ALL the rubber areas within door frames. All the thick weatherstripping in the door FRAME needs to be essentially wiped down with conditioning fluid/grease (the stuff I used is non toxic and derived from plants).



      ALSO, In that same weatherstripping, especially along the top and down the B pillar, u will note small punched out holes every few inches. I squirted grease INTO these holes in both directions (think sticking a needle in your skin) and when done, squished (massaged) the grease inside with my hand from the outside (think squishy). You should be able to do this around the entire frame of the door (body). But its most important around the vertical strip down the B pillar and horizontally along where the roof meets the top of the doors.




      The extra conditioning I did for good measure, and that was anywhere there is rubber on the doors close to window frames, and that was just dampening a cloth or sponge with the goo, and wiping the rubber surfaces down. Don't be afraid to use the stuff. its good for the rubber!..stops it from getting brittle and cracking. hope this helps. good luck!

      Last edited by simonrjones; 07-17-2012 at 02:03 PM.

    10. Member jshay's Avatar
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      07-17-2012 08:04 PM #185
      I saw on the OP that there was a rattle issue from the front engine when accelerating but I'm getting it when I start up my car. It doesn't happen every time but it does happen maybe 1 in 5 ignitions.

      Also when I go from a dead stop it has a rattle too. Also not every time but once in a while.

      I made an appointment with the dealership to have it checked out on Thursday so I'm wondering if other people's issues could be the same as mine. Even tho it happens at different times.

      I have a 2012 GLI DSG Base model

    11. Member nicolas.gagnon's Avatar
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      07-18-2012 02:55 AM #186
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      Open your doors. Stand back and look carefully at ALL the rubber areas within door frames. All the thick weatherstripping in the door FRAME needs to be essentially wiped down with conditioning fluid/grease (the stuff I used is non toxic and derived from plants).



      ALSO, In that same weatherstripping, especially along the top and down the B pillar, u will note small punched out holes every few inches. I squirted grease INTO these holes in both directions (think sticking a needle in your skin) and when done, squished (massaged) the grease inside with my hand from the outside (think squishy). You should be able to do this around the entire frame of the door (body). But its most important around the vertical strip down the B pillar and horizontally along where the roof meets the top of the doors.




      The extra conditioning I did for good measure, and that was anywhere there is rubber on the doors close to window frames, and that was just dampening a cloth or sponge with the goo, and wiping the rubber surfaces down. Don't be afraid to use the stuff. its good for the rubber!..stops it from getting brittle and cracking. hope this helps. good luck!

      You are awesome,,,,thanks so much
      2011 Volkswagen Jetta TDI Comfortline w/ Multimedia, Sunroof and DSG.
      2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI GLS w/ Leather, Sunroof and 5SPD.

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      07-18-2012 04:57 AM #187
      Where did you get that rubber conditioner?
      I only see rubber protectant from turtle wax, meguiar's, etc.
      Are they the same thing?

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      07-18-2012 11:12 AM #188
      Rubber conditioner was from alittle national treasure here in Canada called Canadian Tire, Otherwise known as "Crappy Tire". Its called Kleen-Flo Rubber Care I was first looking for Gummi Fledge which would also work well, call your local BMW dealer.. (It was engineered by BMW to work on their door seals for the same problem of creaking I understand.

    14. 07-18-2012 08:00 PM #189
      I've had my GLI for all of three weeks, and I've noticed a rattle on the driver side door which seems to be coming from the speaker.

      I have the Fender sound system, and have yet to even put it past halfway, so I don't see how I could have blown my speaker. It does seem to sound like it's coming from there, and triggered during bass heavy songs. I actually turned the bass down to -1 when I picked it up from the dealer, as I found it was a bit too overpowering.

      Has anyone experienced something similar? I'm hoping the speaker isn't blown, as I don't see how I could have managed that. If the Fender system isn't capable of half power, then that's really unfortunate.

      Any advice is appreciated.

      Cheers

      *EDIT* Sure enough, I did a search after posting this and found the issue. As described here.
      Last edited by AlexGLI; 07-18-2012 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Found search function. Lived happily ever after.

    15. 07-30-2012 11:51 AM #190
      Hey guys, I've got a 3 week old Jetta SEL, and there is a rattle that is bugging me. It's located where the driver's door meets the dash, right under the mirror adjustment. This is a picture of the area where it's coming from.


      If I poke right in the middle of that circle and sort of separate the door any dash, it stops. Has anyone else had this? Any ideas on how to fix it?

    16. Member JettaVR6mk's Avatar
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      07-30-2012 12:54 PM #191
      I have found a cause of many headliner rattles. I don't have step-by step pictures, but here is the writeup.

      1. Symptom: Buzzing rattles above driver and passenger head, constantly

      2. Cause: Hard styrofoam spacers (?) between headliner and steel roof, not secured well causing vibration and noise

      3. Solution: Remove these hard spacers and replace with thick, soft batting

      4. Writeup:

      (caveat: I have a sunroof, I don't know how that impacts the headliner design)

      I opened the headliner near the front and rear doors by removing the B-pillar covers. There is an airbag emblem which hides a single screw. Remove the airbag emblem by popping it out with a very small screwdriver or prybar. Use a T25 bit to remove the screw behind it. Pull the pillar cover starting from the bottom, there are two strong metal clips holding the bottom in place. These should not break as you pull them, they are multi-use. The pillar cover has the seatbelt running through it, just put it aside to the bottom.

      Next, remove the door assist handles in the roof. Pull the handle down, there is a screw cover on each side. Open the screw cover. There are not screws behind these, but sturdy metal clips. You will need two medium flathead screwdrivers to remove these. Put the first screwdriver in the "bottom" slot. Put the second screwdriver in the "top" slot. Push the screwdriver handles away from each other, this opens the clip and it should come out of the roof/headliner. Repeat for second clip, then repeat for rear assist handle.

      Now you're ready to get up under the headliner. YOU DO NOT HAVE A LOT OF ROOM TO PLAY WITH! Do not try to open the headliner more than 2-4 inches, you may crack it or break other devices securing it in place!

      Get your hand up under the headliner, right where the B-pillar is. Reach in past the "curve" of the headliner, to where your hand is on the flat top. You will feel something like hard plastic, it's glued to the top of the headliner, NOT to the roof. This piece is about 6x2 inches (see pictures below) This thing is actually styrofoam, but feels like hard plastic. It's LOOSELY glued to the headliner, but you can feel it move around quite a bit as they only used 2-3 dots of glue. The rest of this thing rattles. Rip it out of there! (seriously, don't be scared).

      Repeat for driver/passenger sides.

      The same plastic item is found above the rear door, about where the door assist handle would be. Rip those out as well. (These rear ones weren't making noise, but would eventually, so I removed them)

      Next, I took soundproofing batting, cut to 12x2 inches, folded over to double the thickness, and placed them exactly where these four plastic items were. Then I re-assembled everything.

      This has solved MOST OF the rattling I have been experiencing in the vehicle. I am happy with this fix.


      Headliner platic blocks by mikemking, on Flickr
      2012 Platinum Grey Jetta GLI Autobahn with Nav
      2005 Blue Mazda Mazda6 s
      2000 Atlantic Blue Jetta VR6

    17. Member Jettadude1's Avatar
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      08-02-2012 08:28 AM #192
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      08-02-2012 08:31 AM #193
      Quote Originally Posted by ATLstang View Post
      Hey guys, I've got a 3 week old Jetta SEL, and there is a rattle that is bugging me. It's located where the driver's door meets the dash, right under the mirror adjustment. This is a picture of the area where it's coming from.


      If I poke right in the middle of that circle and sort of separate the door any dash, it stops. Has anyone else had this? Any ideas on how to fix it?
      I am having close to the same damn problem! It is driving me nuts!!! I know I might sound picky, though having to keep my radio on to keep from hearing it is unacceptable. I hope there is an answer for this!


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      08-08-2012 11:04 AM #194
      Quote Originally Posted by pinkertonfloyd View Post
      I had this issue, there was an electrical connector in the door (near the handle area) that was "buzzing" against the inside of the door handle and the door frame metal. Foam tape around the connector by the dealer fixed this.

      I was able to find it as I popped the "reflector" bottom out (it just snaps out), and shine a flashlight while playing music... I took a picture of it and handed it to the dealer...

      hey dude, post that pic you gave the dealer!. sounds like the same thing I have, when I "lift up" on the window switches, the noise kinda goes away, or I "pull" on the door handle, it goes away. sounds like something touching an rattling when in contact with something else..

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      08-08-2012 11:06 AM #195
      Quote Originally Posted by Jettadude1 View Post
      I am having close to the same damn problem! It is driving me nuts!!! I know I might sound picky, though having to keep my radio on to keep from hearing it is unacceptable. I hope there is an answer for this!


      Sent from 6 feet under using Steve Jobs' iPhone 4 via Tapatalk.
      yeh, I think i know it, if you stuff your finger in the crack there between the door and dash, and wedge it in a bit (there's pressure...long time..ouch) the noise goes away...right?

    21. 08-08-2012 07:33 PM #196
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      yeh, I think i know it, if you stuff your finger in the crack there between the door and dash, and wedge it in a bit (there's pressure...long time..ouch) the noise goes away...right?
      Yep, that's exactly like mine. I'm going to get them to look into it at my 90 day checkup.

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      08-09-2012 06:34 PM #197
      seems to me it would make sense if the culprit was the legendary missing screw holding the clear plastic to the dash.

    23. Member bmllr8's Avatar
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      08-09-2012 06:52 PM #198
      I removed the Soundaktor from my 2012 GLI and that fixed a rattle that seemed to come from the dash near the middle HVAC vents. Much quieter now. The soundaktor is cantilevered out on a support bracket and made rattle sounds over every little bump. You may be able to stick some foam between the soundaktor and the bracket if you want to keep the soundaktor. Good luck.

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      08-10-2012 06:28 PM #199
      Quote Originally Posted by bmllr8 View Post
      I removed the Soundaktor from my 2012 GLI and that fixed a rattle that seemed to come from the dash near the middle HVAC vents. Much quieter now. The soundaktor is cantilevered out on a support bracket and made rattle sounds over every little bump. You may be able to stick some foam between the soundaktor and the bracket if you want to keep the soundaktor. Good luck.

      Does Regular Jettas have these "Soundaktors?"

    25. Member JettaVR6mk's Avatar
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      08-10-2012 06:55 PM #200
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      Does Regular Jettas have these "Soundaktors?"
      No, only the GLI (and other 2.0T models)
      2012 Platinum Grey Jetta GLI Autobahn with Nav
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      08-14-2012 04:49 AM #201
      How do I remove this Soundaktor?
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      2012 GLI
      08-14-2012 12:35 PM #202
      Quote Originally Posted by mkvowner View Post
      How do I remove this Soundaktor?
      The soundaktor is located near the bottom of the window under the rain guard (plastic under the windshield wipers). Pop the hood and gently loosen the passenger side of the rain guard at the middle (no need to fully remove it). My rain guard is split in the middle. The soundaktor looks like a hockey puck under there. After you unplug the soundaktor wiring connector, you'll need a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt holding the soundaktor to the bracket. Make sure and wrap your electrical connector for the soundaktor in electrical tape in case you change your mind later. Reinstall the loose end of the rainguard. This is probably explained better by others on the forum (in other posts) so look around, but it takes all of ten minutes to accomplish. Good luck.

    28. 08-15-2012 12:54 PM #203
      Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post


      Someone posted up this picture where they found a missing dash screw, that could be the source of some rattling. Anyone know how to disassemble the dash to this point?
      I would also like to know how to disassemble to this point. my GLI rattles like crazy in this same part. Thanks

    29. Junior Member
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      2012 GLI Autobahn 6MT
      08-16-2012 02:47 AM #204
      Quote Originally Posted by bmllr8 View Post
      The soundaktor is located near the bottom of the window under the rain guard (plastic under the windshield wipers). Pop the hood and gently loosen the passenger side of the rain guard at the middle (no need to fully remove it). My rain guard is split in the middle. The soundaktor looks like a hockey puck under there. After you unplug the soundaktor wiring connector, you'll need a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt holding the soundaktor to the bracket. Make sure and wrap your electrical connector for the soundaktor in electrical tape in case you change your mind later. Reinstall the loose end of the rainguard. This is probably explained better by others on the forum (in other posts) so look around, but it takes all of ten minutes to accomplish. Good luck.
      Thanks! I'll remove it ASAP.
      2012 GLI TR 6MT
      APR ECU / APR DP+AWE Track / Carbonio / FK Konigs

    30. n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 21st, 2012
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      Montreal Canada
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      2012 GLI
      08-21-2012 11:47 AM #205
      Guys what did we do before the internet!!! I'm so glad I got rid of this piece of Junk as I knew it wasn't meant to sound like it did...

      I took it out last night in less than 10 minutes (I took my time as I was a little nervous not having owned the car for less than a week...)

      I now have the same (or better) feeling I had when driving my 2009 A3. NOW I FULLY ENJOY MY GLI!!!

      Before I did this I gave a call to my dealer and of course they didn't even acknowledge the existence of this piece of crap... Which was a little dispoointing I must say...

      When I took it out it was as if it was meant to be taken out...It wasn't secured in place what so ever and didn't even mean to take it out it just came right out!!! I put some tape on the connector and let it loose. The so-called speaker is still in.

      I now don't hear a thing (except for maybe a small rattle from the sunroof but TBD...)

      Mine "soundaktor" seemed a little different than what I saw in other posts... Since it doesn't have any rough edges my 1 year and a half just got himself a brand new toy (just kidding!!)

    31. Member
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      2011 Jetta S
      08-21-2012 12:31 PM #206
      Quote Originally Posted by alejovh1 View Post
      I would also like to know how to disassemble to this point. my GLI rattles like crazy in this same part. Thanks
      Remove the side cover on the dash then remove the screws holding the panel. Also remove the headlight switch and the screw behind it. Pop off the trim there may be a screw there. The panel should be free if not check the bottom for screws then pull the panel off. There are clips holding it on.

      Sent from my Galaxy S II Epic 4G Touch using Tapatalk 2 on Android 4.04

    32. 08-21-2012 12:52 PM #207
      Quote Originally Posted by Verebs1 View Post
      Remove the side cover on the dash then remove the screws holding the panel. Also remove the headlight switch and the screw behind it. Pop off the trim there may be a screw there. The panel should be free if not check the bottom for screws then pull the panel off. There are clips holding it on.

      Sent from my Galaxy S II Epic 4G Touch using Tapatalk 2 on Android 4.04
      Thanks, I removed the screws on teh side and bottom and couldn't get it to unsnap. Didn't want to break it. I'll give it a try again. Thanks again

    33. 08-24-2012 12:35 PM #208
      I have found the rattle that has plagued me since I first bought the car. I've tried every rememdy to fix this rattle all of which have supposedly fixed the problem temporarily but then the rattle returned.

      I have a metallic buzz which I thought was coming from the driver's side front door. It happens at approximately 1700-1800RPM, and also when going over bumps/segmented roads/sometimes no reason at all. I cannot always replicate it. It is not the door. It is the handle to the seat height adjustment. If you just tap the plastic somewhat hard on the handle, you can replicate the sound at a standstill with the car off. The problem is that it isn't always lose. If you move the handle up and down it seems to lock in properly. Then after going over some indeterminate amounts of bumps, it shakes loose again and the rattling begins.

      Hope this helps EVERYONE who had a rattle in the door. I will later today try to figure out a solution that doesn't involve taking the entire seat base apart.
      Last edited by Jags86; 08-24-2012 at 12:45 PM.

    34. 08-24-2012 01:41 PM #209
      Here is a link to a video of this metallic rattle I made today.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3yY8...e_gdata_player

    35. Junior Member pinkertonfloyd's Avatar
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      Oct 25th, 2003
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      Roseville, CA
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      2012 Jetta TDI
      08-25-2012 06:29 PM #210
      Quote Originally Posted by simonrjones View Post
      Rubber conditioner was from alittle national treasure here in Canada called Canadian Tire, Otherwise known as "Crappy Tire". Its called Kleen-Flo Rubber Care I was first looking for Gummi Fledge which would also work well, call your local BMW dealer.. (It was engineered by BMW to work on their door seals for the same problem of creaking I understand.
      Gummi Fledge can be found at amazon for $8.

      http://www.amazon.com/einszett-91480...s=Gummi+Fledge

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