Jetta VI Rattle Fix Thread

[Jersey GLI]

I've been driven mad by a vibrating sound coming from the passenger A-pillar area, especially noticeable when cruising at highway speed. Almost sounded like constant static coming from the tweeter mounted in the pillar.

To make a long story short, I found the issue: the rain shield was vibrating against the edge of the windshield at the area where the shield extends up to the a-pillar. I wedged a piece of foam under the piece near the a-pillar and the sound is gone. Peace.

[simonrjones]

I feel your pain, I know what that annoyance feels like.

[simonrjones]

I think I solved the Head unit/dash rattle by putting a layer of foam and felt pads between the radio and the hvac controls. I'm thinking the radio cage did not completely support the head unit and there was contact between the two. It's been a few days and the rattle is gone

Did the same thing this weekend. Put a 5" x 3" layer of 3/4 foam between head unit and HVAC (relatively easy really), screwed it back in, PLus for good measure, I put adhesive backed foam tabs( made little washers) in between the contact points of HVAC and plastic frame and buttoned that back up. No snaps at all. I think the Head unit was essentially moving up and down at the back (no support there?), putting alot of strain on the front contact/plastic area points ( 4 screws ), and when it moved, you'd get the crack sound!. Now it has something to limit its bounce and get supported somewhat, no snap, crackle or pop!.

[erictellomcevoy]

The clip works fine. I installed it last weekend and sound is gone. I´m from Peru and peruvian dealers have any idea about this sound, so I bought the clip from Oklahoma dealer by mail. It takes only five minutes to install it. Five minutes if engine is cold otherwise you need to wait for half an hour until the engine gets cold.
Now I need to fix the door rattles.

[erictellomcevoy]

I have a rattle there and it was the part between the soft dash and the hard center console. I put between the a little piece of plastic belt and now the sound is gone.

[Tacoma750]

WHY does it sound like there are dishes breaking in my front passenger door? Its coming from that area anyway, but its a loud VERY annoying metal vibration anytime i hit a bump..

[alejovh1]

mine does the same, if it wasn't for my crappy credit.....I would get rid ot it

[Jags86]

It is the handle for the seat height adjustment. There's a video on page 6 of this thread. if you hold the handle you won't get that vibration. When I hit 20k miles I will have the dealer fix it.

[erictellomcevoy]

The door rattles come from
the Windows. Hold them tight with your hands, or roll them down a little and sound dissapears.

I would like to create a thread where we can post information on identifying the cause and providing a solution to common rattles in the MKVI Jetta. I'll keep the first post up to date as an index to individual posts describing the cause and/or solution to each problem.

1. Fender subwoofer, rear deck
   Cause - Rear plastic deck vibrates
   Solution - Tennis ball under rear deck
   
   
2. Windsheild/dash at high speed
   Cause 1 - Loose plastic rain/splashguard
   Solution 1 - Make sure the tabs that hold it down are secure
   Cause 2 - Leaf in rain/splashguard drain rattling in wind
   Solution 2 - Keep rain/splashguard free of leaves/debris
   
   
3. Trunk rattle when going over bumps
   Cause - Spare tire not secured
   Solution - Secure spare tire
   
   
4. Trunk rattle
   Cause - Rear seat release cable
   Solution - Wrap and secure cable
   
   
5. Snapping/cracking from instrument panel
   Cause 1 - Missing screw in dash from factory
   Solution 1 - Dealer installed missing screw
   Cause 2 - Squeaky trim
   Solution 2 - Add styrofoam
   
   
6. "Rustling leaves" when accelerating
   Cause - Needs holding rod clip from dealer
   Solution - Have dealer fix
   More Info - Thread detailing this issue
   
   
7. Driver or passenger door rattles (multiple)
   Cause 1 - LED security light cylinder plastic housing
   Solution 1 - Foam tape (Full thread)
   No cause 2 found -
   No solution 2 found -
   Seems there is no single cause or solution to these rattles. Suggested dynamat or other soundproofing
   
   
8. Snapping/cracking, head unit area
   Cause - HU frame makes contact with HVAC frame
   Solution - Felt pads (Full how-to)
   One owner had his entire HU replaced
   
   
9. Creaking Dead Pedal
   Cause - None found
   Solution - None found
   

[168]

I'm having a constant rattling noise that appears to be coming from the driver's font door, and sometimes in the rear door. Is anybody else getting rattling noise from the door? It appears to start when you first drive it , but stops after a while.My car barley has 6k miles on it,should I bring this to the dealer to check it out or is this an easy fix?

[JettaVR6mk]

It seems as if all the myriad rattles I've experienced since I took care of the first few, have been headliner related. I think the headliner design is just poor.

[erictellomcevoy]

No more door sound. I applied rubber conditioner on the rubber that is between the door window and the roof. All the sound is gone.

I'm having a constant rattling noise that appears to be coming from the driver's font door, and sometimes in the rear door. Is anybody else getting rattling noise from the door? It appears to start when you first drive it , but stops after a while.My car barley has 6k miles on it,should I bring this to the dealer to check it out or is this an easy fix?

[JettaVR6mk]

No more door sound. I applied rubber conditioner on the rubber that is between the door window and the roof. All the sound is gone.

Which conditioner did you use?

[erictellomcevoy]

SONAX

Which conditioner did you use?

[BMP_3918]

EDIT: I saw someone had the same issue.

I'm having a constant rattling noise that appears to be coming from the driver's font door, and sometimes in the rear door. Is anybody else getting rattling noise from the door? It appears to start when you first drive it , but stops after a while.My car barley has 6k miles on it,should I bring this to the dealer to check it out or is this an easy fix?

I get this same thing, but it doesn't stop after a while. More specifically, it's coming from lock/unlock button.

[simonrjones]

EDIT: I saw someone had the same issue.



I get this same thing, but it doesn't stop after a while. More specifically, it's coming from lock/unlock button.

probably the wire/harness vibrating against plastic. happened to me, also with the window switches, installed a strip of foam around wire/harness, good now.

[W220s]

I had a noise(sounded like two pieces of styrofoam rubbing against each other) coming from my steering column caused my road vibration. Anyone else have this???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Timstah]

SONAX

i cant seem to find sonax rubber conditioner

do you perhaps mean sonax rubber protectant ?

[simonrjones]

i cant seem to find sonax rubber conditioner

do you perhaps mean sonax rubber protectant ?

try this instead.. Canadian tire.
Kleen-Flo Rubber Care

[simonrjones]

Took the opportunity to look deeper into the crack/pop/snap sounds that so often occur from the dash/Stereo area. Seems obvious, but if u remove the cover (on top of HVAC and Head unit) theres a heck of a lot of plastic parts sticking out from the dash and on the back side of the cover, not just clips, probably to keep the cover from pushing further back when installed to keep the controls etc. flush with the cover.

Anyway, I put a couple of adhesive back foam tabs directly ON a few of these "spikes" , just lightly attached on the ends (for lack of better word) on both back of cover and dash facing up surfaces. I then sprayed the entire back of the cover with PLASTI DIP, not too thick, believing that with little bit of flexible surface texture, it might help. Re-installed everything.

Not sure if anyone else got this additional issue I had with the door handles creaking when you squeeze/open or close the door, but...I took off the plastic housings for the window switches, ensuring the 3 mm thick sides got some spray, Sprayed plastic-dip on the backs of them also (without the switches in of course) Masked a few areas first so the spray wouldn't show on the outside/top of the housing, let dry, removed masking, and re-installed.

The result is NO creaks. Proof its the flexibility (or lack thereof) of the plastic on hard plastic that was the issue. now that's there's a thin later of rubberized material in between, there's no or at least very little for the plastic to move/slip and subsequently snap against other plastic, it now gives but holds in place. Feels solid, more like it probably should.

No pics sorry, ( you wouldn't see anything anyway - black on black) just went ahead and did it, and quite happy about it too. Also did the back sides of the covers over the air vents (which seem a lot more solid and part of the dash now, no creaks or squeaks when I push on the plastic surrounds).

[BetterDays]

Have a low RPM/low speed rattle, specifically when in reverse.
It occurs when turning (again, low speed) in both forward and reverse.
Reminds me of the old days of the heat shield being loose.

Plan to take it to the dealer soon to have them look at it.

[PrestonK]

I am now taking this lemon (but rattles aren't covered under Tx Law) back to the dealer for the 5th attempt at fixing the rattles in the drivers door and rear deck.

Here is a description of the rattles I have, anyone have a fix for them?

Drivers door in the middle of the space between the red reflector and the arm rest.
Drivers door in the middle between the arm rest and the silver accent panel.
Drivers door on the right side of the handle
Drivers door on the left side of the handle.
Drivers door, approx. 8 inches to the left of rattle number 2.
Drivers door, to the right of the the mirror adjustment panel.
Drivers door, at the top of the window switches, also can be observed in the middle of the switches also.
Drivers door, on the right side, just above and to the left of the speaker. (Between the speaker and the trunk release switch).
The rear deck of the car. The rattles can be observed on the black rear deck and where the headliner is coming loose from the metal car frame.
Front passengers door in the middle of the space between the switch and the speaker.
Front passengers door just below the arm rest.


Also, my headliner is failing on the C pillar for the 2nd time. Is this a reason to campaign at the dealer for a replacement?

[simonrjones]

I am now taking this lemon (but rattles aren't covered under Tx Law) back to the dealer for the 5th attempt at fixing the rattles in the drivers door and rear deck.

One thing to keep in mind with this car, is that noise travels. So a rattle or noise that seems to occur in one place, can actually originate elsewhere close.One guys swore a rattle was coming from the dash, when all the while it was coming from his vanity mirror area in the courtesy light. Seems to me though, by what you've described, that its definitely your driver door area somewhere. Take it in, tell them whats you've found, show them the list, they've got to be able replicate at least one of them if not more. Chances are one fix for one noise will fix many noises.

I noticed when I had my door panel off for the 3rd time, that the wiring plays a role, where it drapes down into the hole in the window switch, and door open lever , as well as the trunk release button. this wiring can move about under varying conditions, and cause vibrations and rattles at various times against the inside of the door card, i.e temperature variations, road surface. etc. plastic expands and contracts, so that is a factor in where the cable/wiring meet the plastic paneling, and as such, the position of the wiring, and where it rests may change.

Essentially, I wrapped my whole length of the wires in foam tape (cloth or felt tape would work), where I thought it made contact with the holes in the door where the wire goes up through into the switches. I also put a couple of pieces of thicker packing foam down through the hole beneath the window switch plastic panel from behind the door panel, draped downwards, to ensure that the plastic panel itself has some cushioning to rest on when its in its proper place, as opposed to straight hard plastic on hard plastic ledges ( if you ever open it, you'll see what I mean).

Lately, I took the same plastic panel (for the window switches) took it off, took out the switches, and sprayed the back side (hidden side) with rubberized paint (plasti-dip or equivalent rubberized spray)
I have to tell you it really firmed and solidified things up in that area.(as the plastic to plastic creaked, and can also cause rattles instead sometimes).

I also put foam backed adhesive tabs on all mounting spots where the grommets connect to the metal door (what attaches the door card to the door itself ). Its been a bit of a hurdle, and I think during this process, Ive become a little O.C.D about it. But for the most part, I think I've fixed most of the noises that shouldn't be there. Sure, If you go over a train track quickly or larger bump, you will hear a few to many noises from the plastics, but that's extreme, and fairly understandable with significant jolts to the cars suspension, but under normal operating instances, over average roads, the area in question, and any other previous annoying and elusive areas of vibes, rattles or otherwise, have gone away completely now. The car is generally quiet finally.

The most offending areas were, in my personal experience, the front door panels, the triangular black plastic piece in the corner of the front driver and passenger doors that are parallel to our side mirrors, and the head unit area (put 3/4" foam pad between the HVAC controls and stereo)

As for the rear passenger area headliner sagging, mine did that, I brought it in, and they said the C pillar was warped, as IT, not the headliner, was faulty. It evidently supports the headliner, so when it warped/buckled, the headliner drooped as well. They replaced the C pillar 2 months ago, and thus far all is good.

BTW, I removed, masked and sprayed with rubberized paint the said triangular panels, in the areas it makes contact with either metal or other plastic, this helped BIG TIME.

[gt4ever]

try this instead.. Canadian tire.
Kleen-Flo Rubber Care

Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care
Can this work?

[gt4ever]

Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care
Can this work?

Nevermind , I tried it and it totally worked!!
No noises on the doors!!

[simonrjones]

Nevermind , I tried it and it totally worked!!
No noises on the doors!!

noises might try to make an appearance again. just be ready with the magic lube!...Requires a few applications.

[gt4ever]

noises might try to make an appearance again. just be ready with the magic lube!...Requires a few applications.

Yea when I applied it , the next day I think my application is wearing off and I'm hearing it again (slight)

[gt4ever]

I asked my dealer about it and they said to use a silicone based spray to condition it like cyclo silicone spray (orange and white bottle. Will try it.


link eg:
http://www.jagorequipmenttoolandsupp....asp?item=1297

[bpc2646]

Anyone else experience a slight rattle coming from the C-Pillar in their car? I have had the car in and out of the dealer for a month and we finally narrowed it down to the C pillar. After the first few tries, I finally had to take the technician on a ride to find a road that I knew would cause the noise and have him sit in the back seat to trouble shoot the problem. They previously removed the rear dash and replaced a few clips and secured some wiring, all of which did not solve the problem. Now my car is going back in next week to have the C pillar removed to see if there is a cause behind there. I'm trying to see if I can head them in the right direction because they were about to tell me I was crazy after I kept coming back and they couldn't duplicate the noise. I almost had a screaming match with the service rep the other day. Any help would be much appreciated.

[simonrjones]

Anyone else experience a slight rattle coming from the D-Pillar?

We have a D pillar?. I knew we had A,B and C, no sure about D?

I assumed A was the one between windscreen and front driver window, B was the one between driver side and passenger back, and C was the one between passenger back and rear window.

I sympathize with you on the "cannot be duplicated" issue. Sometimes I think they try to make you think that they think your crazy, just to avoid working on what THEY consider silly, piddly customer complaints.

[bpc2646]

We have a D pillar?. I knew we had A,B and C, no sure about D?

You are very right. Between my frustration with this issue and the fact that I have been driving wagons for so long before the Jetta, I mistakenly called the C pillar the D pillar. Post is updated so people aren't confused. Thanks for the catch

[simonrjones]

You are very right. Between my frustration with this issue and the fact that I have been driving wagons for so long before the Jetta, I mistakenly called the C pillar the D pillar. Post is updated so people aren't confused. Thanks for the catch

S'OK...I was starting to second guess myself too for a second! LOL

[nicolas.gagnon]

So... I was on my way home from work tonight...just listening to Adele in a medium volume... I could hear my dash crack, my passanger door rattle, my sunroof making noise and something around my light switch buzz....oh yes and also the back door (driver's side) buzz or something... I so can't take those rattles anymore... I just felt like putting the cruise control on at 180 and jump off the car... I can't believe I would say this,,,but I miss my civic !!! I would trade that car back for my civic any day !!!!

I really love VWs...but I can't take the rattles anymore...it's making my drives to and from work a pain...i try to use my spouse's Mazda 3 Sport GT that feels like has no suspension at all just to avoid the rattles... I have an appointment at VW this friday to have rattles fixed...but they kinda laughed at me when I was booking the appointment... Sad...very SAD... If I could take it all back, I wouldn't drive a jetta at the moment...not a 2011 anyways...maybe a 2010, if the rattles are not as bad...or a golf...

just wanted to pour my heart out LOL

[simonrjones]

just wanted to pour my heart out LOL

I get your pain. try to be patient. I've fixed my rattles to a point I find acceptable (comparing to my wifes Kia) . Just gotta pin point the sources properly.

Dash -Not much u can do about the overall dash, but "cracks" can come from the head unit, bouncing or flexing on the HVAC controls, but sounds travel, so it sounds like its much further up.

Light switch - push on the surrounding plastic trim panel when it happens again. see if it goes away or minimizes., try also holding secure the light switch knob while traveling, listen for variances. poke around in the general area/s and listen close. The buzzing/vibe type of rattles, I used rubberized paint- plasti-dip behind the pieces (if removable), just sprayed a light coat. seems to give the buffering it needs most instances.

back door- have someone else drive. sit in the back seat, poke around and listen intently, try to pinpoint. its either the trim or the wire behind the panel vibrating on the panel behind. Only thing to do there if its the wire(window electrical harness) is expose it, and wrap it in felt tape or foam rubber tape. Craft stores are good for cutting little pieces necessary. If it is the door trim, take it off, mask the front off, and spray plasti-dip on the back, re-install.

Seriously, the rubberized paint thing works. makes panels and pieces that move or shift next to other plastic parts flex/give without cracking or sliding. Keep a mental note of the areas on the sides of pieces that touch.

I did the underside of my door panel window switches surround plastic pieces also, plus behind the trim covering my head unit and HVAC controls too, feel much more solid, and doesnt creak when i push on those areas anymore.

BTW, A layer of packing foam in between the head unit and HVAC controls should help alot.
When the noises minimize and as you make progress, you'll start to fell better about your car again.

[ice512]

this knocking/rattle/paint can rattling sound is really driving me nuts around the light switch area...

I tried holding down the whole area down really tight and it made the noise went away for a bit. But once I let go its back again.

Anyone know whats the fix for it?

Thanks!!!!!