Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
    Results 26 to 50 of 82

    Thread: 16v aba swap help!

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2009
      Location
      LANCASTER PA
      Posts
      168
      01-02-2012 09:59 AM #26
      you could adapt a 1.8t passat intake (just cut the flange off and weld a 16v flange on)then file a flat spot on the end for a cold start injector..............pics or it didnt happen

    2. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2009
      Location
      LANCASTER PA
      Posts
      168
      01-02-2012 10:01 AM #27
      you could adapt a 1.8t passat intake (just cut the flange off and weld a 16v flange on)then file a flat spot on the end for a cold start injector..............pics or it didnt happen

      and waterwheels is right about the WUR

    3. 01-02-2012 10:17 AM #28
      I have a passat 1.8t intake here, I was gonna do that hybrid setup but it puts the TB pointing toward the drivers side headlight. I need it to point toward the firewall so it lines up with the original intake boot. Also, when making a spot for the 5th injector, I suspect i'm over thinking it. Just slapping it on one side of the intake seems to me would be a bad idea. The closest runner getting the most fuel and the furthest getting the least. Putting it in the middle giving the middle runners all the fuel while the outers get none. So on and so forth.....
      I'll be sure to take pics when its time to make the intake. I'm gonna wait till the engine is in the bay so I can be sure to make proper clearances. That's gonna be a couple months out though, I'm slow. Today the old 1.7lt is coming out, I need to fit alot of the "stuff" from it to the aba. I tried to track down the 9a rod/wrist pin bushings this morning, but the dealership was closed cause today it's new years day to them.

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2005
      Location
      Germany
      Posts
      2,272
      01-02-2012 10:29 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by mr sarcastic View Post
      Also, when making a spot for the 5th injector, I suspect i'm over thinking it. Just slapping it on one side of the intake seems to me would be a bad idea. The closest runner getting the most fuel and the furthest getting the least. Putting it in the middle giving the middle runners all the fuel while the outers get none. So on and so forth.....
      Yes, you are over thinking the location for the cold start injector. Take a look at any 8v with one, it is over on one side. Same really goes for a 16v as the small air duct it fires into also is to one side. Remember, it is only to help get the engine to fire, it does not run off it. The injector sprays enough to get extra fuel to all the ports, the ones where it sits do get more, but it is just an aid not an engine management system. As soon as the engine catches the normal injection system is running the engine as you have released the key.

    5. 01-02-2012 10:50 AM #30
      Ah, I thought it operated during cold starts, till the engine reached operating temps. Kinda like a choke, but guess it's more like a primer.

    6. 01-02-2012 10:55 AM #31
      Ya. Im fairly certant the cold start injector is to richen the mixture to help aid in cold start and idling when cold. Usually its ecu controlled but on the early cars i think it used a thermo time switch.

      On a side note i used my cold start injector connected to a full throttle switch and had it open at full throttle. Seemed to help the full throttle fueling issue, and my drag slip time.

    7. 01-02-2012 11:10 AM #32
      ha, i was actually thinking about connecting it to an rpm switch to aid in fueling in the higher rpms. i bought a rpm switch years ago and i've been itching to put it too use.......

    8. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2005
      Location
      Germany
      Posts
      2,272
      01-02-2012 01:45 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by calituner View Post
      Im fairly certant the cold start injector is to richen the mixture to help aid in cold start and idling when cold. . . i used my cold start injector connected to a full throttle switch and had it open at full throttle. Seemed to help the full throttle fueling issue, and my drag slip time.
      Quote Originally Posted by mr sarcastic View Post
      . . . i was actually thinking about connecting it to an rpm switch to aid in fueling in the higher rpms.
      Do Not, I repeat, Do Not connect the cold start valve to any kind of switch, full throttle or whatever, in an attempt to make some kind of enrichment device. This was tried many many years ago and proven to be a dangerous idea at best. First the cold start valve does not work exactly like an injector and was never designed to be operated for any lenght of time. Its spray pattern is not very good at all and no kind of even distribution between cylinders is achieved which is a big problem. There are other wasy to enrich the mixture which are far safer for your engine and proven to work "IF" you discover that you really do need extra enrichment (just wanting it is a bad reason to do it). Imagine for a moment your engine increasing in speed quickly up to say 6000RPM or 7000RPM and all of a sudden the mixture in some cylinders becomes different than the rest. Not a good thing to do to any motor you like. I'll skip making a call on the above for now.

      The cold start valve (5th injector as it's called) does not operate during cold running, cold idling, warm-up or any other phase except cold starting (cranking). The thermotime switch controls if and for how long it fires based on temperature. The actual power comes from the starter curcuit, either 15a or 50, so it only operates while the key is turned to start (power is cut when the key is released to "run"). This is a CIS forum and all CIS engines work this way. Cars with EFI injection alter the pulse times of the injectors via the computer based on temperature.

    9. 01-02-2012 03:14 PM #34
      point taken.
      old engine is out, no turning back now. crappy cell phone pic.....

    10. Member waterwagon's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 7th, 2002
      Location
      Branchville, NJ
      Posts
      2,197
      Vehicles
      '93 Cabriolet '89 Jetta
      01-02-2012 08:36 PM #35
      I don't have any input, but I like where this is going.

    11. 01-03-2012 06:20 AM #36
      I'll have an update for you tomorrow regarding the intermediate shaft and ignition distributor setup. I think I'll be able to make the 1.7lt stuff work, with the aba shaft. I'm crossing my fingers. Almost everything else from the 1.7lt bolts up to the aba block and v8 head. I figured nothing would line up on the head (coolant flanges and such), but everything does. Pretty amazing to me.....

    12. 01-03-2012 06:58 PM #37
      I was gonna pull the gear off the end of the aba intermediate shaft, and press on the one from the 1.7. That way I'd keep all the gearing correct, but this csnt happen because the end of the shafts are a different diameter.... So, I began to take a closer look at where the 1.7 shaft hits the crank. It hits on that lobe that must have been for something that was scraped, cause it does nothing. I assume this is a balanced unit, so grinding off the spot that hits is gonna be sketchy. But, it looks like minimal wieght has to be taken off so I'm gonna grind it just enough to clear the crank as it passes by. I was thinking that I might be able to time it so the lobe and the crank would be out of time, but they're not one to one, eventually they meet up.

      As for the distributor, it mates up with the aba oil pump fine. Lines up with the intermediate shaft gear fine, the only problem is the housing is too small. It fits into the bore in the block instead of on top. I'm having a fitted ring made to fit over the housing. It'll be a few days, I'll take pics when it's done and set up. Ordered the 9a rod bushings today so I can run the 9a pistons on the aba rods. $100 for the set, wtf.

    13. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2005
      Location
      Germany
      Posts
      2,272
      01-04-2012 03:36 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by mr sarcastic View Post
      It hits on that lobe that must have been for something that was scraped, cause it does nothing. I assume this is a balanced unit . . . Lines up with the intermediate shaft gear fine, the only problem is the housing is too small. It fits into the bore in the block instead of on top. I'm having a fitted ring made to fit over the housing.
      That lobe is for the mechanical fuel pumps used in some models. In later years, when fuel injection cam into being, kind of, that lobe was deleted slowly. It would be much easier to just get you a shaft from an engine that did not have the lobe, or buy a balanced one which had it removed. The problem I had always heard was the rod comming much too close to to gear on the shaft itself. The fix was to grind off 5mm from the inside of the gear to allow the rod to swing past without any problems. Sometimes it did not hit during fitting but later as the car moverd around so did the crank a little at then did touch. Be real sure of the gear to rod clearance before closing up the engine.

      There are rings sold already for installing the older ignition distributors in the newer 2.0L blocks. If you already have a contract to have one made, too late. There is a complete kit sold also with the ring and a larger gear to put on the old distributor shaft so it mates with the original 2.0L shaft, again maybe too late.

    14. 01-04-2012 08:01 AM #39
      Woa, you wouldn't happen to have a link to that kit would you?

    15. 01-04-2012 08:33 AM #40
      Found it, i'll link it here for future reference.
      tt conversion kit

      Looks like the gear is the oem one off a aba distributor. I'm gonna reach out to my friends and see if any of them have an extra distributor hanging around that I can take it from. I'll also need the intermediate gear if i'm gonna change the gearing at the distributor. the ring/bushing I'm having made is a free-be from my father in law. We'll see how it comes out, but i know it won't have the o ring. probably gonna grab this one anyway.....
      Last edited by mr sarcastic; 01-04-2012 at 02:59 PM.

    16. 01-04-2012 03:01 PM #41
      looks like i'm gonna need this too.....
      along with an aeb oil filter housing. ****s starting to add up!
      Last edited by mr sarcastic; 01-04-2012 at 03:16 PM.

    17. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2005
      Location
      Germany
      Posts
      2,272
      01-05-2012 12:10 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by mr sarcastic View Post
      looks like i'm gonna need this too.....
      along with an aeb oil filter housing. ****s starting to add up!
      Na, you said you have a KR head. I can't remember if the PL heads have this mounting point drilled and threaded, but on a KR there is a mounting point for the WUR on the transmission side of the head. That is where the WUR is mounted from the factory, right next to the sensors and coolant flange. For the crankcase venting I have used an Audi part which is a rubber reduction boot that fits on the large nipple of the factory seperator and then ran a smaller tube. Sometimes to a seperator and to vent, sometimes to a catch can either vented or back to the engine. I could maybe find the part number if you want to try and find one.

      Why an AEB filter housing?

    18. 01-05-2012 04:03 PM #43
      well, not sure if its a KR head or not, its off an audi v8q. it does have the spot your talking about though on the transmission side, but i'm gonna use that spot for the coolant flange from the 1.7. it'll keep all my coolant hoses exactly where they were, just easier that way.

      DSCN0128 by phillipcdube, on Flickr

      DSCN0129 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      as for the oil filter housing, the aba has an extra oil port and the shape is slightly different at the top. i cant use the oem aba housing cause it points the oil filter straight down, and on longitudinal cars the engine mount is right there. it needs to be pointed down and towards the fire wall a bit. the aeb unit is the only one with the extra port, and shape that i need. found one in the classifieds for $35 shipped.

      DSCN0126 by phillipcdube, on Flickr

      since i had the camera out, i took a couple other pics. i'm gonna wait till there's a couple days of above freezing temps, push this thing out into the driveway and clean/hose the bay.

      DSCN0130 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      the mess on my bench....

      DSCN0132 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      and test fitting the accessories and other crap. gonna pull them off and paint the mounts and other stuff. i'm gonna try and make this a clean swap, but not go too crazy.

      DSCN0131 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      DSCN0125 by phillipcdube, on Flickr

    19. 01-06-2012 08:14 AM #44
      thinking about getting this. bad idea?

    20. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2005
      Location
      Germany
      Posts
      2,272
      01-06-2012 12:51 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by mr sarcastic View Post
      thinking about getting this. bad idea?
      Can't really say. I do know it has a manifold pressure enrichment but just how much, I'm sure not too much, I don't know. The second port is something I can't comment about as I don't know the cars, Volvo, it came from. Could be altitude compensation or could be a lean down function, but it could be blocked off or left free if need be. I would not rush things as the engine will run fine with any 8v unit until you get one you are sure is correct. You will just not have the same top end or have to keep your foot off a little.

      Understand about the filter mount. Audies also have them canted and I just forgot the engine position you are working with.

      About the cylinder head. Is there a reason you want to use half an 8 cylinder head? I have heard/read that they can work, but from looking at it I think you have a lot of "jerry rigging" before you. Things would be so much more straight forward with a PL or 9A or KR head and they can't be all that much used.

      After thought: That head does not have the pad for mounting the WUR.

    21. 01-06-2012 01:22 PM #46
      About that wur...... I just came across an Audi 10vt unit for $50, so I bought it. Figure if I don't need it, or can't use it I'll be able to sell it and make my money back.

      As for the head, I already have it and I've been thinking about doing the swap for a while. It's a little more work, but putting any 16v head in a longitudinal setup in gonna take some jury rigging. I've got a pretty rare/unique car, I think it's fitting to have a unique swap. I guess it's a little "form over function" and "cause I can".
      Last edited by mr sarcastic; 01-06-2012 at 02:40 PM.

    22. 01-12-2012 08:45 PM #47
      did a bunch of cleaning in the last few days. kinda tedious, but necessary. fedex dropped off the wur. it was advertised as a wur for an audi 5000 10v turbo, but it doesnt have any vacuum port. its got a vent on the top, but no vacuum port. i searched the part number (034 133403a) and found its for a non turbo 5000 10v......

    23. 03-02-2012 12:10 PM #48
      so progress has been slow for the last couple months. we finally got some snow out here so i've taken up a new hobby, snowboarding. also, i had to wait a little on other people doing some of the work, as i dont have the facilities to weld aluminum or resurface a head. but now its all back, and ready for assembly. probably gonna assemble the head tomorrow. got some pics cause everyone loves pictures.
      did a slight port job on the intake runners, nothing major, just a gasket match.
      old

      DSCN0156 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      new, didnt want to go too crazy and get into the water jacket.

      DSCN0157 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      had the head resurfaced.

      DSCN0158 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      filled the circular holes with a piece of 1/2" aluminum rod. threaded to 3/8's pipe thread. i didnt want to weld much on the head, and i didnt want to use a brass or even steel plug because of expansion rate difference's. so i needed to make my own plugs. sealed the threads with permatex.

      DSCN0159 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      one spot needed to be welded cause it was oval shaped.

      DSCN0160 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      fit the 9a pistons to the aba rods. new rings and crank bearings too.

      DSCN0161 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      now, this is my "new" audi 10v WUR. as you can see its larger.

      DSCN0163 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      its got a cover on this nipple, how do i know if this is for vacuum or vent?

      DSCN0164 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      part number 0 438 14u 157

      DSCN0165 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
      Last edited by mr sarcastic; 03-02-2012 at 12:15 PM.

    24. Member PKstrategy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 21st, 2004
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      17,404
      Vehicles
      CC, MK3
      03-25-2012 08:11 PM #49
      nice

      not knowing about this from personal experience, but I'm assuming vacuum should be kept once the motor warms up.

    25. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2009
      Location
      LANCASTER PA
      Posts
      168
      03-27-2012 10:19 AM #50
      [. phillipcdube, on Flickr[/QUOTE]
      there should be a line nipple on the side of the base that is where the Vac/Boost gots hooked up to

    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •