you could adapt a 1.8t passat intake (just cut the flange off and weld a 16v flange on)then file a flat spot on the end for a cold start injector..............pics or it didnt happen
I have a passat 1.8t intake here, I was gonna do that hybrid setup but it puts the TB pointing toward the drivers side headlight. I need it to point toward the firewall so it lines up with the original intake boot. Also, when making a spot for the 5th injector, I suspect i'm over thinking it. Just slapping it on one side of the intake seems to me would be a bad idea. The closest runner getting the most fuel and the furthest getting the least. Putting it in the middle giving the middle runners all the fuel while the outers get none. So on and so forth.....
I'll be sure to take pics when its time to make the intake. I'm gonna wait till the engine is in the bay so I can be sure to make proper clearances. That's gonna be a couple months out though, I'm slow. Today the old 1.7lt is coming out, I need to fit alot of the "stuff" from it to the aba. I tried to track down the 9a rod/wrist pin bushings this morning, but the dealership was closed cause today it's new years day to them.
Ya. Im fairly certant the cold start injector is to richen the mixture to help aid in cold start and idling when cold. Usually its ecu controlled but on the early cars i think it used a thermo time switch.
On a side note i used my cold start injector connected to a full throttle switch and had it open at full throttle. Seemed to help the full throttle fueling issue, and my drag slip time.
The cold start valve (5th injector as it's called) does not operate during cold running, cold idling, warm-up or any other phase except cold starting (cranking). The thermotime switch controls if and for how long it fires based on temperature. The actual power comes from the starter curcuit, either 15a or 50, so it only operates while the key is turned to start (power is cut when the key is released to "run"). This is a CIS forum and all CIS engines work this way. Cars with EFI injection alter the pulse times of the injectors via the computer based on temperature.
I'll have an update for you tomorrow regarding the intermediate shaft and ignition distributor setup. I think I'll be able to make the 1.7lt stuff work, with the aba shaft. I'm crossing my fingers. Almost everything else from the 1.7lt bolts up to the aba block and v8 head. I figured nothing would line up on the head (coolant flanges and such), but everything does. Pretty amazing to me.....
I was gonna pull the gear off the end of the aba intermediate shaft, and press on the one from the 1.7. That way I'd keep all the gearing correct, but this csnt happen because the end of the shafts are a different diameter.... So, I began to take a closer look at where the 1.7 shaft hits the crank. It hits on that lobe that must have been for something that was scraped, cause it does nothing. I assume this is a balanced unit, so grinding off the spot that hits is gonna be sketchy. But, it looks like minimal wieght has to be taken off so I'm gonna grind it just enough to clear the crank as it passes by. I was thinking that I might be able to time it so the lobe and the crank would be out of time, but they're not one to one, eventually they meet up.
As for the distributor, it mates up with the aba oil pump fine. Lines up with the intermediate shaft gear fine, the only problem is the housing is too small. It fits into the bore in the block instead of on top. I'm having a fitted ring made to fit over the housing. It'll be a few days, I'll take pics when it's done and set up. Ordered the 9a rod bushings today so I can run the 9a pistons on the aba rods. $100 for the set, wtf.
There are rings sold already for installing the older ignition distributors in the newer 2.0L blocks. If you already have a contract to have one made, too late. There is a complete kit sold also with the ring and a larger gear to put on the old distributor shaft so it mates with the original 2.0L shaft, again maybe too late.
Found it, i'll link it here for future reference.
tt conversion kit
Looks like the gear is the oem one off a aba distributor. I'm gonna reach out to my friends and see if any of them have an extra distributor hanging around that I can take it from. I'll also need the intermediate gear if i'm gonna change the gearing at the distributor. the ring/bushing I'm having made is a free-be from my father in law. We'll see how it comes out, but i know it won't have the o ring. probably gonna grab this one anyway.....
Last edited by mr sarcastic; 01-04-2012 at 02:59 PM.
Why an AEB filter housing?
well, not sure if its a KR head or not, its off an audi v8q. it does have the spot your talking about though on the transmission side, but i'm gonna use that spot for the coolant flange from the 1.7. it'll keep all my coolant hoses exactly where they were, just easier that way.
DSCN0128 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
DSCN0129 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
as for the oil filter housing, the aba has an extra oil port and the shape is slightly different at the top. i cant use the oem aba housing cause it points the oil filter straight down, and on longitudinal cars the engine mount is right there. it needs to be pointed down and towards the fire wall a bit. the aeb unit is the only one with the extra port, and shape that i need. found one in the classifieds for $35 shipped.
DSCN0126 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
since i had the camera out, i took a couple other pics. i'm gonna wait till there's a couple days of above freezing temps, push this thing out into the driveway and clean/hose the bay.
DSCN0130 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
the mess on my bench....
DSCN0132 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
and test fitting the accessories and other crap. gonna pull them off and paint the mounts and other stuff. i'm gonna try and make this a clean swap, but not go too crazy.
DSCN0131 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
DSCN0125 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
Understand about the filter mount. Audies also have them canted and I just forgot the engine position you are working with.
About the cylinder head. Is there a reason you want to use half an 8 cylinder head? I have heard/read that they can work, but from looking at it I think you have a lot of "jerry rigging" before you. Things would be so much more straight forward with a PL or 9A or KR head and they can't be all that much used.
After thought: That head does not have the pad for mounting the WUR.
About that wur...... I just came across an Audi 10vt unit for $50, so I bought it. Figure if I don't need it, or can't use it I'll be able to sell it and make my money back.
As for the head, I already have it and I've been thinking about doing the swap for a while. It's a little more work, but putting any 16v head in a longitudinal setup in gonna take some jury rigging. I've got a pretty rare/unique car, I think it's fitting to have a unique swap. I guess it's a little "form over function" and "cause I can".
Last edited by mr sarcastic; 01-06-2012 at 02:40 PM.
did a bunch of cleaning in the last few days. kinda tedious, but necessary. fedex dropped off the wur. it was advertised as a wur for an audi 5000 10v turbo, but it doesnt have any vacuum port. its got a vent on the top, but no vacuum port. i searched the part number (034 133403a) and found its for a non turbo 5000 10v......
so progress has been slow for the last couple months. we finally got some snow out here so i've taken up a new hobby, snowboarding. also, i had to wait a little on other people doing some of the work, as i dont have the facilities to weld aluminum or resurface a head. but now its all back, and ready for assembly. probably gonna assemble the head tomorrow. got some pics cause everyone loves pictures.
did a slight port job on the intake runners, nothing major, just a gasket match.
DSCN0156 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
new, didnt want to go too crazy and get into the water jacket.
DSCN0157 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
had the head resurfaced.
DSCN0158 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
filled the circular holes with a piece of 1/2" aluminum rod. threaded to 3/8's pipe thread. i didnt want to weld much on the head, and i didnt want to use a brass or even steel plug because of expansion rate difference's. so i needed to make my own plugs. sealed the threads with permatex.
DSCN0159 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
one spot needed to be welded cause it was oval shaped.
DSCN0160 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
fit the 9a pistons to the aba rods. new rings and crank bearings too.
DSCN0161 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
now, this is my "new" audi 10v WUR. as you can see its larger.
DSCN0163 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
its got a cover on this nipple, how do i know if this is for vacuum or vent?
DSCN0164 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
part number 0 438 14u 157
DSCN0165 by phillipcdube, on Flickr
Last edited by mr sarcastic; 03-02-2012 at 12:15 PM.