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Thread: G-Lader Wide Belt Conversion

  1. 12-21-2011 02:33 AM #1
    found the info i was looking for. 19mm super wide belt conversion. where to find wide cog wheels?
    Last edited by Kyle_R; 12-21-2011 at 03:49 AM.

  2. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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    12-22-2011 10:08 AM #2
    Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
    ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
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  3. 12-22-2011 05:46 PM #3
    Not worth the money though

    gives you no more power, and does not increase reliability

    Just go for a 11-12.5 mm one and change it more often

  4. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    12-23-2011 11:43 PM #4
    Deff worth the $120 for the wide belt. It's not about power. It is about prolonging the service life of the oe skinny belt. More importantly if you're running a G60 that's dialed in $120.00 is cheap insurance to avoid catastrophic failure between belt inspections.

    Mine gave me a whine a few months before I grenaded my TEC GT-1. The charger had an oil leak that contaminated the belt. It was going on for a while. It was a hard lesson to learn. If I would of pulled the plastic inspection cover when I heard the whine it would of save the charger. An oe skinny belt just would of gone without a word.

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    Last edited by petethepug; 01-29-2012 at 11:37 AM.

  5. 12-31-2011 02:33 PM #5
    Quote Originally Posted by 1,3LG60 View Post
    Not worth the money though

    gives you no more power, and does not increase reliability

    Just go for a 11-12.5 mm one and change it more often
    I have lost a chager at dyno testing, ripping the 12mm belt. Only because of the rpm drop after a full rpm run. Engine did 8000rpm with a 62mm wheel.

    Later on I used the SLS widebelt conversion and never had any troubles. Even with 60mm at 8000rpm.
    The bigger the better in this case if you ask me!

  6. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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    01-02-2012 01:59 PM #6
    Quote Originally Posted by GTI1-G60 View Post
    I have lost a chager at dyno testing, ripping the 12mm belt. Only because of the rpm drop after a full rpm run. Engine did 8000rpm with a 62mm wheel.

    Later on I used the SLS widebelt conversion and never had any troubles. Even with 60mm at 8000rpm.
    The bigger the better in this case if you ask me!
    IMHO, you are asking for trouble if you rev a G60 that high...

    Its behaviour like this (trying to make the G-ladder something that just isn't in its nature) that resulted for the G60's bad reputation. Enjoy you car for what it is - If you need more power go turbo or choose a different engine/supercharger IMHO
    Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
    ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
    My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
    My MK1 build thread
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  7. Member lnoriel's Avatar
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    01-15-2012 01:54 AM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
    IMHO, you are asking for trouble if you rev a G60 that high...

    Its behaviour like this (trying to make the G-ladder something that just isn't in its nature) that resulted for the G60's bad reputation. Enjoy you car for what it is - If you need more power go turbo or choose a different engine/supercharger IMHO

    I have to agree.

    I have an original TEC 2RS that came with twin belts. VW Motorsport knew the potential of catastrophic failure was dependent solely on the tiny OEM belt. Anything was better. However, the redundant belts proved little improvement as a single broken belt would often take out the second one when it failed.

    I had BBM convert my twin belt 2RS to the single 19mm belt. With the scarcity of gladers, the added insurance of the wider belt can't hurt.

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  8. 02-22-2012 06:57 PM #8
    Just remember that the added offset of the pulleys, give you slightly higher bearing wear.

    The wide belt and twin belt conversions where originally design to lower the risk of the belt snapping, back in the early days of the g-lader. Unfortunately, the belt is not the problem, the grease filled bearings was.....

    They chucked the grease out, which lead to overheating the bearing, which snapped the belts

  9. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    02-29-2012 02:03 PM #9
    Don't forget you need to modify your charger bracket for the wide belt mod. Grind off enough material to allow the wider belt to protrude. You can cut it if you want to but the grinder will allow you to smooth out the aluminum so you don't cut up your hands when you work on it.


    It's also a good time to powder coat all the G ladder accessories. Make sure you have 'em clear coated for additional protection from petroleum products, solvents & dog fur .



    All the idler pulleys and arms have to be disassembled since they bake at 400* The G ladder case was also powder coated before assembly.

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    02-29-2012 10:49 PM #10
    I've done both, cut the bracket and ground the bracket to clear the wider belt. My recommendation is to grind the bracket to clear the wider bracket. If you cut the bracket the serp. belt may begin to rub the serp belt tensioner arm.

  11. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    07-06-2012 12:25 PM #11
    New recomendation ... clearance the G60 mount bracket like this


    or this may occur



    A nice silver then clear powder coated broken G-Lader bracket. Insert Sad Trombone Wah Wah here.
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    07-06-2012 03:01 PM #12
    I did it like your top picture. How did that charger bracket break

  13. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    07-06-2012 06:14 PM #13
    I'm not sure what caused it to break. I'd take a stab it was fatigue caused by the chop and a flaw in the casting.

    I had a torsion bar snap on my 914-6 from a flaw. It was clearly visible there were impurities in the metal around the break. That car came from the factory with the larger 911 torsion bars. I knew to pull over right away because I looked down and checked for blood it was so loud.

    Drake and I heard it break while getting on the freeway the day before (or at least we think we did). We heard a muffled "tink" like a 8mm wrench being dropped on the ground. We had about 15 min drive time on it with rev's under 2.5K until we pulled the hood the next day.
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    07-09-2012 05:22 PM #14
    Yeah, you can't just cut the bracket. There is way too much going on there to weaken the structure. I ended up using the bench grinder on mine. I had tried to use a die grinder but it took FOREVER and looked like poop. The bench grinder allowed me to be more accurate and even with the shape and depth. That is what I would recommend.
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    07-10-2012 04:40 AM #15
    if a maintained sw breaks....something not so good most likely happened inside
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    07-29-2012 11:11 AM #16
    Will the little plastic belt cover fit with the wider belt conversion?

  17. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    07-30-2012 01:15 AM #17
    Yes it will. When the (wide) belt started to loosen up it did start to wear at it though. Two thin washers cured that issue.
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    07-31-2012 03:37 PM #18
    1st broken mount bracket I have ever seen...
    Boost... the displacement replacement!

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