I think my controller died.

[JWoody]

So my Snow controller is prolly dead. The LED light has not flashed in awhile and I also have not lost any mixture in my reservoir. Does anyone have a idea how to test to see if its failed. I suppose I could remove it and send in for RMA to Snow. The weather has been cold enough that I haven't really needed the cooling effects recently. Thoughts?

-J

[Scott@USRT]

Sure, yank the pressure line from the nozzle holder and pipe it out to spray on the windshield. Set the controller's initial trigger point to something way low. See if anything comes out. Of course, you could always put a multimeter or test light on the controller's output lines (that go to the pump). Is there any current or not? It's pretty simple.

P.S. Winter time is a perfect season to spray water/meth. Cold is great and COLDER is truly BETTER. There's no limit. For every 10degF drop in IAT you get about more hp out of the engine. Yeah, you feel a power loss when the temperature gets higher than what you're used to. However, you'll achieve a wonderful power gain when you drop it big time.

[JWoody]

Thanks Scott. I figured I should use the Multimeter. Of course I agree colder is better.

-J

[JWoody]

UPDATE

Scott, so I finally got around to getting a new controller. The shop that did the install originally is going to fight the RMA issue for me. Its been 10 months since the install so I don't forsee any issues as it were. The shop though has been installing the Boost based Controllers from Snow vice the MAF in the last 2-3 months. They were getting sick of the MAF ones failing and dealing with complaints from their customers.

At any rate I left the shop feeling the nice power of W/M again and the nice green glow from the LED mounted on my boost gauge.

It's set up right now for 5PSI initial spray and then 10PSI for wide open spray. What is your thoughts on either leaving it like it is or move the values around a tad. Car is a DD that see's 500 miles a week or so with some Auto-X days here and there.

I thought perhaps keeping a 10PSI spacing between initial onset and wide open. Say 5-8PSI for pre and 10-15PSI for full spray. Single nozzle in between the IC and the TB.

Build Thread is below...for background...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-quot-57-F4H-T


-J