seems like an inexpensive solution to the air suspension issues.
seems like an inexpensive solution to the air suspension issues.
Seriously, it feels like ever since I bought my LR3 every other day there's a Rover thread in TCL.
I love me some P38, and with the condition this one is in I'd go for it. That being said, I've owned less reliable vehicles *cough* Rover Mini *cough*, so why the hell not?
Where do you intend to work on this car?
Also, the car it's replacing is not exactly a reliable machine.
how come a transvestite donkey witch is next to you and why is it wearing a dress?
Say 'what' again. Say 'what' again, I dare you, I double dare you mother****er, say what one more goddamn time!
I thought about one and then came to my senses. Threads like this, 13 months and 20k miles (1500 of them on the trail) cement it:
This guy takes extremely good care of his P38 but notice what he lists as having been replaced in 13 (!) months of time.
- Replaced the air springs with OME shocks & springs when the air suspenson failed and i drove home 300 miles on the bumpstops.
- CEL(intermitant missfire) which took forever to pinpoint turned out to be a worn crank shaft possiton sensor caused by damged teeth on the flywheel. not before i replaced the coil pack, plugs and Ht leads. Only afterwards did i find out several others had experianced the same problem.
- Brake accumulator replaced
- Rear silencer rusted, so i removed it, only slight increase in noise level
- Steering damper replaced twice- (don't even bother with the Rancho item, and AB advertises a Bilstein unit but none in stock) trail damage both times.
- Fuel pump replaced as a precauton at 100k , (fuel gauge has not worked since which is unfortunate as i have a fuel tank guard and removing them is a pain for one person and a trolley jack- going to cut an access panel when i get round to it)
- Replaced alternator, when on its last legs it produced some very intresting warning lights and poor running- used a booster pack / charger to boost the battery on the drive back from Utah. This killed the battery and i now have a Odessey 2150.
- Sunroof mechanism failed, interior door handle release broke, fuel filler switch and clip both failed.
- Broke 2 sets of sway bar dissconnects, now using much stronger JKS items model PN 3100
- I destroyed the rear diff carrier in Moab and replaced it with a stronger carrier and TruTrack LSD ( which i would now like to replace with an ARB and put the TruTrack in the front axle) I would also like to install a LT-230 Transfer case and would appreciate any advice on installing one in a P38.
- Belts, hoses, thermostat and radiator replaced as a precautionary meassure. Easier to do at home rather than on the trail. Check the short hose to the fuel tank filler as mine had deteriorated badly- (of course its a unique LR hose diameter and not available at the local parts store)
- Brake pads and rotors replaced, rear caliper was leaking and replaced. Brake hoses are now stainless steel extended items.
- Engine oil changed 7 times, axle & gearbox oil twice, air filter changed 7 times. The stock air intake is less than ideal and i really hope someone brings out a raised air intake. Fuel filter and spark plugs changed twice.
- Currently running my 3rd engine. I am certain the 2nd 4.6 had a slipped liner when i installed it, and was only confirmed after i replaced the HG and still had exhaust gas in the coolant. Time to build up my own 4.6 with the pinned / top hat liners.
- Plastic rear bumper cover and trim panels replaced twice after trail damage (2nd hand parts)
CD changer, window regulator (failing again drivers door) and cruise control ecu replaced, Thanks Will especially for the free bonus selection of Cd's still in the changer
- Several brake overhauls, pads currently EBC, stock LR rotors front and some free cheese grater rear rotors.
- Lost count of oil changes, running synthetic and changing every 4k to 5k.
- Tom Woods DDC front drivehaft
- Replaced front OME springs with DS OME 764's
- Replaced fuse box after HVAC light up like a christmas tree
- Replaced VC fan clutch (i thought these usually failed in the fully engaged position)
- Several radiator flushes, changed coolant and replaced hoses, thermostat and serpentine belt.
- Fuel gauge fixed, access panel in rear for fuel pump
- Headliner still sagging
- Slight oil leak (damp)at front axle hub
- Track rod ends replaced
- Oil leak from oil pressure switch again(this weekends job genuine LR part $0.81 but they normally only come in packs of #)
- Air filters, pollen and fuel filter all replaced regularly
- Spark plugs usually use NGK 2756 and changed every 10 to 15k
- Transmission and transfer case fluid changed twice a year currently Mobil 1 synthetic
- Diff fluid changed twice a year used Castrol 75/90 but will try Lucas HD gear oil
oil filter K & N 3001 or Mobil 1 m204
- Blend motor on HVAC beginning to stick again, replaced motors several years ago when I did the o rings.
- Brake fluid flushed
- Interior temp sensor replaced
-Faulty generic water pump replaced
- Catalytic converters rattle but just passed Ca smog, (my previous 4.6 passed as a 4.0, but this time it had to be entered as a 4.6 in order to pass)
- Lucas fuel additive used at oil changes, average 10 to 11mpg in heavy LA traffic and between 14 and 17mpg highway fully loaded with RTT
Passenger interior and exterior door release failed, had to break up old latch inside the door, without breaking the window.
- Expansion tank nipple on the bottom of the plastic tank leaked under pressure, replaced expansion tank.
- Last new radiator from Atlantic British lasted 2 years before leaking.
- Cruise control stopped working again
- Heater core and O rings, I have done this job twice now and found it a real PITA, this time replaced the heater core with a metal Audi version, and ran the heater hoses where the alumunum pipes and O rings had been, no more O rings.
- Exhaust manifold on passenger side is ticking again,
- Replaced original catalytic converters and 2 x O2 sensors, reset adaptive values and MPG increased by 2 mpg.
- Replaced driver side window regulator again
- The plastic "thingy" by the fuel filler cap in the wheel arch which captures fuel tank vapors on pre Adv EVAP, is leaking again
- Replaced front radius arm suspension bushings, and track rod.
- Replaced valve cover gaskets
- Transfer case would not shift from low to high after running trails in Moab on my way to Colorado, removed shift motor, turned spigot and reinstalled shift motor. Replacing the shift motor did not solve the problem, until I replaced the computer under the passenger seat.
- The viscous coupling seized after running trails in Mojave, the weekend before the NR. Sourced a low(er) mileage replacement transfer case and it is possible (not easy) to swap out in the driveway with one person
"I had a customer last week who went to the post office, parked in the Fire Lane, shut the door, came back out to a no-start and the alarm going off everytime you touched the ignition or opened the door. It was a faulty latch." You have to somehow get it to unarm and then gain access to the latch and unplug its lead to get it to start up. Hows your soon to be ex gf going to feel about that one?
I think he's telling you to buy this
Last edited by MCTB; 01-05-2012 at 04:26 PM.
What Vad should do is go to two or three LR service centers and a couple indy ones and ask for pre purchase opinions. Dont ask the guy behind the counter. Go ask the mechanic on his/ her cigarette break. Being where he is, he will have plenty of options to choose from.
From two reputable and prominent indy shops, active in the LR community, the P38 is ranked by one as THE worst Land Rover, followed by the D2, and the other says flat out the he would NEVER drive one regularly. Not to mention a local indy shop that is highly regarded told me personally not to. I asked while my D1 was getting the tank replaced if the reputation of the P38 was well earned. They answered absolutely. Its a great truck when it works but when it doesnt, youll hate life. I was thinking about buying one as a second truck to drive around in but after their advice, I decided not too and bought an Outback.
The wise move would be for Vad to buy a 100 series Cruiser as it will be 100% more reliable and cheaper to own but thats not the point of his aim to buy the cheapest car possible (or so it seems). The P38 is attractive because it is cheap but it is also cheap for a reason.
not gonna lie, that DOES look good. and I hate SUVs....even tho i own one now (or soon, not plated yet!)
buy it and you and I can educate TCL at the same time with first hand accounts as to how it is to live with these things.
oh wait, firsthand doesn't count....crap!
looks good. you're in cali. it's living the life. it should be just find compared to the rustbucket i'm dealing with