Keep going - use 2000 and finish with 3000. You are wet sanding, correct?
Then you'll want to use an aluminum polish to restore the shine. But more importantly, why are you sanding to remove dirt?
#1
okay, heres the deal,
i just acquired a set of BBS RS, all the lips have some imperfections, just dirt from what i see, i have sanded using a sanding block by hand, with about 200 grit or so, then i did 400,600,800, 1000, and finally 1500.
after all that there is still some grit or something, but its just not coming out, i thought about a dremel, but i cant muster up the balls to do it, and possibly screw up the grain of the metal, and end up screwing up a part.
basically im asking,
should i use a bit on a drill? if so what?
should i try sanding with a different grit?
after sanding i polished it and they are nice, but not quite mirror, how can i get that finish.
please help![]()
I'm Erik....and I'm, a uhhhh...Dub-aholic.
#2
Keep going - use 2000 and finish with 3000. You are wet sanding, correct?
Then you'll want to use an aluminum polish to restore the shine. But more importantly, why are you sanding to remove dirt?
#4
I've never used WD40 as a lubricant for wetsanding - I've always used soap water.
Any automotive paint store will have 2000 and 3000 grit. They'll save you lots of polishing time over trying to remove the sanding marks of 1500.
#6
You should be able to find 3000, even if you have to find it on the internet. That is the key to getting the mirror finish. An auto body paint store should have it.
Buffing is polishing. Yes, after you hit it with 3000, you need to polish it out.
Use soap/water as a lube for sanding.
#8
Looks good so far, but it still some paper. Our WalMart has 2000 grit paper, so does AutoZone, PepBoys and o'Reilys.
Also, what are you using for polish? What type of cloth? I highly recommend using a microfiber for the polishing and switch cloths when you switch polishes.
Here's an example of what I did. I started with 150 (really bad corrosion), finished with 2000, and then used 2 types of polish with MF cloths. Took about 3 days. I have a polishing bench now where I just bolt on a wheel, the bench spins the wheel and I just hold the paper or polish, knock out a set of wheels in about 4 hours.
Start
Finished 320 grit
End result
![]()
Originally Posted by Surf Green
#9
#11
your start to finish is clearly much different, but would you be able to accomplish by hand? cuz i dont have that thing you have. i fell asleep yesterday sittin on the end of my bed, head on my dog, hand with sandpaper still in it sitting on a lip, cardboard on my lap hahaLooks good so far, but it still some paper. Our WalMart has 2000 grit paper, so does AutoZone, PepBoys and o'Reilys.
Also, what are you using for polish? What type of cloth? I highly recommend using a microfiber for the polishing and switch cloths when you switch polishes.
Here's an example of what I did. I started with 150 (really bad corrosion), finished with 2000, and then used 2 types of polish with MF cloths. Took about 3 days. I have a polishing bench now where I just bolt on a wheel, the bench spins the wheel and I just hold the paper or polish, knock out a set of wheels in about 4 hours.
I'm Erik....and I'm, a uhhhh...Dub-aholic.
#12
You can get some polishing wheels for a drill that work well. Even the Mothers powerball with their alum/mag polish works very well once you have it wetsanded down to 3000.
#13
That was actually my first time polishing. It was done by hand before I built the bench for it. Here's the steps I did it in:
3 passes of 150 to remove corrosion
1 pass of 180
1 pass of 220
1 pass of 320
1 pass of 320 (wet)
1 pass of 400 (wet)
1 pass of 600 (wet)
2 passes of 800 (wet)
2 passes of 1000 (wet)
2 passes of 1500 (wet)
2 passes of 2000 (wet)
1 hour of polishing with Meguiars Metal Polish each wheel
I probably could've started with 220, but I had lots of 150 and 180 grit. All of it was done by hand in a matter of days. Forearms looked like Popeye's when I was done.![]()
Originally Posted by Surf Green
#14
Almost forgot... Resist the urge to use a dremel. Even with a flapwheel, you'll get high and low spots in the metal which are a PAIN to remove. The key to any good polish is an even surface. Using a dremel to polish something as flat as a wheel is like using a drill to plane a piece of wood.
Originally Posted by Surf Green
#18
Needs more work...
#19
Go to lowes or HFTools and buy Red, White, And Blue rubbing compound. Its like 20 bucks for all three. Get a polishing disc to hook up to your drill at home and buff with first red then whit then blue. By the time you finish blue, you WILL have a mirror finish. Be careful not to use too much compound because it will gunk up and make a mess. If you want mirror finish this step is a must. After you use compounds, wash and dry wheel then Finish off with a thorough polish like mother alum & mag polish. Good luck.
The Rave Green VR in Italy.....
#21
My wheel I just did didn't need much work, i just was trying to get rid of the machine lines in the lips. So, I did 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Then I did the compounds. I don't know if you have Lowes or Home Depot up there but they carry the compounds as well. It should be near their polishing wheel supplies. MOST hardware stores carry it. Its not expensive or fancy, just polishing clays. Also when wet sanding be sure to polish in the opposite direction with each grit. But when doing the compounds only do horizontal around the lips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyOodLNI4BQ
Watch this video to see the benefits of using compounds after sanding. This is the video that made me realize i needed compounds to get past that hazy sanded look. All you need is the red and white bars,wheel and hook it up to your house hold drill (hope you you have plug in or you'll be changing batteries a lot lol).
The Rave Green VR in Italy.....
#22
looks like it should work beautifully.
ill be sure to post some pics when im done. thanks man
I'm Erik....and I'm, a uhhhh...Dub-aholic.
#23
No prob. Enjoy. The second you put that polishing pad to the metal you'll see results immediately.
The Rave Green VR in Italy.....
#25
You don't need to use much of those rouges, clean the wheels often with a rake (I usually use a coarse sawzall blade) and hit the wheel really quick with the rouge. Too much cakes up and can leave too much residue on the metal or burn the metal a bit. The white compound you should also be using with a loose stitched wheel for final buffing/coloring.
For liquid polishes I swear by Englishes polishes and maintain with Belgom alu.
Lips are looking good otherwise man.![]()
#26
so i have gotten the lips to a pretty good finish.
however, the guy i traded with told me he would polish the bolts.
he didnt polish the bolts
so im now stuck with 136 ugly corroded bolts. any ideas on how to get rid of that? diluted CLR?
heres the POLISHED bolts....not gonna say names of who said they would polish...but seriously... not polished
Last edited by 44stella; 04-03-2012 at 08:05 AM.
I'm Erik....and I'm, a uhhhh...Dub-aholic.
#28
That's 1000,1500,2000 then porter cable then hand and perfect mirror finish
#29
Results look perfect. Ill be doing this myself very soon.
My bolts are sitting in cola overnight, then ill use a tumbler to finish them off
Hippos aren't that hungry.
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#30
Wow, you guys are doing way too much work.
You only need to sand up to 800 grit, then you use a high speed buffer. A high speed buffer is the only way to get a perfectly shiny surface.
Sanding with anything more than 800 grit is pointless as the rouge you will be using is approx 800 grit to start with.
Start with 400 grit and go straight to 800 grit. Then you use a high speed polisher with black rouge and a tightly wound buffing wheel. Then you finish off with white rouge and a loosely wound wheel.
Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes per wheel not including time to strip the factory clearcoat of the wheels with a stripper such as Aircraft Stripper.
I've done several sets of RSs and this is the way to do it.
The buffer I have is actually a very nice unit from Harbor Freight with its own stand. It has extended arbors so you have plenty of clearance to work with the lip.
One set....
![]()
#31
Erik, 3000 grit can be found on ebay. Nvr dull/mothers doesnt work for what you want. U need a polishing kit. Go to princess auto and they have a couple kits. Learn how to use the different felt bob's and sprial sewn wheels etc. Use tripoli and other polishing compounds which come in those kits (red white green and black compounds) and you will achieve mirror finish. I always start with one of those hocky puck/rough mesh like wheels that you get at cdn tire in the autobody section. They are 10$. Just go crazy on the lip with it and focus it on rough areas. then proceed through the grits with wet sandpaper
Thats whati did on my bbs rxii's and it looked great after. Nvrdull/mothers is only meant to restore that shine after a month or two of oxidation
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Last edited by kt883; 04-12-2012 at 01:06 AM.
This isn't your normal skyline. This motherfcker is the skyline God would drive if he wasn't busy doing God sh*t like making tsunamis and crap. Its set up to go fast, and go fast sideways. Who doesn't like to get sideway?! Terrorists, thats who. Are you a terrorist? No? Then you need this car.
#32
The end result looks good but I would've used wenol as a final polish it's got a water resistant coating that won't allow spots to form.
It's ok if you disagree with me, I can't force you to be right.
2010 JSW TDI
2011 CC R-line
2012 Beetle turbo
#33
DSC04079-1 by rhecht90, on Flickr
Please see my DIY for in depth polishing techniques.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ls-(Fat-Fives)
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