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    Thread: GT35R, PCV, Flappers...wtf!?

    1. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-10-2012 06:42 PM #1
      Ok so i have searched for a few months now and have came up empty handed. I was running a GT35R on 15psi before the bottom end couldnt hang anyone. yes im a dumbass yadda yadda...
      this is what it looked like before it blew up:

      now its fully built, finishing re-assembly and only a couple days away from putting it back in.
      As it sits now...

      I had a lot of PCV issues prior to the kaboom so now im trying to figure out a way to route/vent/whatever possible the crank case and the valve cover... my previous setup was running the BFI PCV plate to a sealed catch can, rear PCV went to the intake to create vacuum. I dont think that worked as well as i had thought. Now im thinking of running the crank case vent straight to a vented catch can but i dont know what i should do with the rest (i.e. rear pcv, front 2 ports on VC).. any thoughts?
      Second i wanted to know if there is a way to just remove the intake flapper motor and tumblers inside the intake manifold and head? if i just take this stuff out will i have to get software written to delete them? if i just take the damn things out will it be alright? thanks for the help... heres a pic or two for kicks...

      oh and i am switching to an AWIC under the hood... where the battery used to be...

      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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    2. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      01-10-2012 07:17 PM #2
      A few options. Plug the dront PCV port, so it routes out the rear port, run that to the ground or to a can and let it vent. You can also have it run to the intake itself so it gets a bit of vacuum, but then you get hot, dirty oil in your intake...

      Or, get a PCV plate on the front that is setup for VTA and just let it do it's thing... I have the EJ plate from back in the day and I just let it all vent to the air.

      As for your previous setup... connecting the rear port to the manifold was not a good idea. When under boost, the boost was most certainly making its way into your head via the PCV port. This is why the front PCV section has a diaphragm... to stop said boost from pressurizing the head.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    3. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-10-2012 10:10 PM #3
      I had this setup running the two left ports to a sealed catch can...

      as for the rear, i did have it running back into the intake... and did have a slightly oil filled intake...
      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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    4. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-10-2012 10:17 PM #4
      this is where i stopped today in the assembly process...
      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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    5. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      01-10-2012 10:25 PM #5
      woops! thought I read intake manifold.

      then your good to go. that's the setup im running its just fine, aside from the smoking engine bay, but hey, when people ask I just say "boost gets hot."
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    6. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-11-2012 01:01 AM #6
      Yeah, i just felt like there were issues with it. For a week i disconnected the crank hose from the valve cover and let it vent to atmosphere and everything seemed better. No smoking or anything... that what i was trying to figure out. If any of the BT guys have a secret PCV/crank vent trick...
      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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      01-11-2012 11:53 PM #7
      I run a bsh pcv plate and the rear port to my intake. Surprisingly enough my ic plumbing doesnt have a whole lot of oil. But it may have a little to do with my leaking valve cover gasket.


      I like what conglomerategti did, got a used ej valve cover, breather filter right on the top. Full VTA.
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    8. Member CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 06:56 AM #8
      Thanks mike.

      Mike,

      It may also be that you're not chugging oil like everyone else that routes the rear PCV to the intake because your bung faces downwards rather than upwards. Most people have their circ bung right before the turbo inlet. Yours is right after the maf section (or what would be the maf section for others).

      OP,

      As for deleting flappers, get an HEP manifold. You will need coding to delete the flappers as well as tuning for the slight hesitation you'll get from deleting the flappers.

      Pic of my set up:

      Last edited by CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi; 01-12-2012 at 07:01 AM.

    9. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 10:50 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi View Post
      Thanks mike.

      Mike,

      It may also be that you're not chugging oil like everyone else that routes the rear PCV to the intake because your bung faces downwards rather than upwards. Most people have their circ bung right before the turbo inlet. Yours is right after the maf section (or what would be the maf section for others).

      OP,

      As for deleting flappers, get an HEP manifold. You will need coding to delete the flappers as well as tuning for the slight hesitation you'll get from deleting the flappers.

      Pic of my set up:

      Ok, im most likely leaving the flappers for now, I have Revo, so i dont know how i would get them to delete them in the software.. I like the HEP mani but i am gonna build my own to go with my AWIC under the hood. Plus ports for W/M...

      Ok, so i see you have the VC VTA but where is the crank breather? Are you taking that to a catch can? and with the EJ VC you have no rear PCV so the VTA on the valve cover works for you, but i am still on stock VC, so i think i will just route that to Atmosphere out the back of the engine bay. I gutted the VC so im gonna say there will be better air flow for gases to escape.

      I think im gonna run the crank vent to a VTA catch can and block off the rest of the VC ports minus the rear and let that run out the back to atmosphere...
      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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    10. Member jhines_06gli's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 03:59 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by 719MKV.t View Post
      Ok, im most likely leaving the flappers for now, I have Revo, so i dont know how i would get them to delete them in the software..
      Not sure if I'm lucky, because I usually have no such luck when it comes to testing things out on my cars. But I deleted my flaps almost 15K miles ago when I did my last injector/valve cleaning. I left the flaps in the OE intake manifold as it's a PITA to delete them and be able to go back with them if needed later on.

      But I'm running REVO K04 file with RS4 injectors and I have no hesitation issues or abnormal cold-start hiccups. Nothing changed whatsoever when I removed them. My only reason was to see if it would help keep the valves a little cleaner since the same exact air will be hitting the same surface at all times. I have the BSH race VTA setup and haven't had too bad of buildup. I have the leaking valve stem seals on a few valves from having that extremely high crankcase pressure early on in the engine's life.

      Also, if you're looking for a way to basically eliminate the PCV pressure inside your engine, I'd recommend a setup similar to what I'm running. The way the BSH race plate is made that bolts onto the valve cover, it completely eliminates that PCV leg going out the back of the valve cover. So mine is just capped off where is comes out and I made a plate to bolt onto the turbo inlet to keep it sealed. As for the way the rest of the system is plumbed, the main outlet from the oil filter housing goes straight to the vented catchcan as well as the main outlet from the valve cover. The only thing you have to be careful with it the filter on the can......make sure it stays fresh and you replace it as often as needed. What I ran into early on was trying to clean it since it was a K&N, but there is no cleaning that stuff out of the filter, so I started getting a little excess pressure and was seeing some smoke when I would come to a stoplight and the engine would sit idle for a minute. Also saw a little oil consumption. Not much, but enough to alert me something had changed in the way my engine was running. New filter and all was fixed.
      -J. Hines
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    11. Member 719MKV.t's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 04:34 PM #11
      ^Now that's what i've been looking for. Thank You!
      Horsepower:Weight Ratio....its a SOB!
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    12. Member jhines_06gli's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 05:51 PM #12
      No problem.......no sure how much the temps. will effect the engine, but it doesn't get too terribly cold here. Still gets cold enough to make the car angry sometimes, but no more than normal. But yea man.......I've had no issues from removing them. End goal is to removed them permanently and open the ports up to match a customer intake manifold. But that's a few projects off
      -J. Hines
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    13. Member CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 07:20 PM #13
      I'm sure the weather in CO is more like they weather here in NY rather than what you have down in SC.

      temps and altitude plays a huge factor.

    14. Member jhines_06gli's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 09:24 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi View Post
      I'm sure the weather in CO is more like they weather here in NY rather than what you have down in SC.

      temps and altitude plays a huge factor.
      What is your MAF altitude reading there? MVB 6 field 4

      It will have an effect on the cold-start of the car, but once it starts to warm up and even when weather gets a little warmer, I don't see it being too much of a damper. But who knows til it's been tried in that region.
      -J. Hines

      That's why I tried mine.......everyone says they're afraid to because of adverse effects. For my region, people would be fine to take them out on a setup like mine. Worst case, you'll have to put them back in. It's a breeze for me, but I know it's a pain for those who don't do it on a weekly basis.
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    15. 04-27-2012 11:16 AM #15
      Bump for more PCV and flapper talk!

    16. 04-28-2012 07:27 AM #16
      very good job
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    17. Member iTech's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 07:38 AM #17
      Bump for Howie's amazing manifolds. Run them on my 1.8t's and love them.
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    18. 05-09-2012 09:39 AM #18
      I just purchased the stage1+ intake manifold from HEP as well and I was wondering if you filed your head after removing the dividers? Or did you just leave the slot in the head hollow?

    19. Member mrbikle's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 11:21 AM #19
      i filled mine with quiksteel. if you do throughly clean and score the mating surface

    20. 05-09-2012 12:10 PM #20
      did you fill the head while it was still attached to the motor?

    21. Member mrbikle's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 12:19 PM #21
      No, but you could, just rotate the engine so the valves are closed in that port

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

    22. Member Tmsracing37's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 12:20 PM #22
      No, we did Bikle's head off the car.

      If your not down for taking your head off right now, then I suggest putting the plates in, until you're ready to remove the head. There is a lot grinding and smoothing before and after the use of block fill. So there is chance for shavings to get down into the cylinder.
      Last edited by Tmsracing37; 05-09-2012 at 12:23 PM.
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    23. 05-09-2012 01:33 PM #23
      Thanks for the information

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