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    Thread: Noob here! 84' RabbitL Saved from the Trailer park!

    1. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      1984 Vw Rabbit, 2004 Passat W8 wagon.
      01-13-2012 08:02 AM #1
      Hello new here! I Just picked up an 84' Rabbit about a month ago.

      Craigslist pic.

      Bringing her home.


      Only Rust i could find so far.

      A little surface rust here.


      New pics coming this weekend.

      I have already put in:
      New radiator
      cleaned up the vac. lines.
      changed all the fluids.
      Runs good!
      replacing a cv axle, and ball joint this weekend.
      Last edited by Jesse-B; 05-23-2012 at 08:49 PM.

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      01-13-2012 08:39 AM #2
      Looks good, What did you pay?

    3. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 09:22 AM #3
      750. running, but had a million vac. leaks, and a leaking radiator.

    4. Member standard125r's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 11:44 AM #4
      Looks like a good start! I like the white ones for some reason...
      junkstyles.com

    5. Member keeton's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 11:59 AM #5
      Nice little car...carbed with an OEM airbox though...that is interesting.

    6. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      1984 Vw Rabbit, 2004 Passat W8 wagon.
      01-13-2012 12:09 PM #6
      Carb is stock

    7. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 12:19 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by Jesse-B View Post
      Carb is stock
      Also came with stock ac. It has been removed.

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      01-13-2012 03:31 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Jesse-B View Post
      Also came with stock ac. It has been removed.
      I just noticed that
      it's got a funky looking water neck and snaky rad hose
      looks like dealer installed?

      is that carb a solex single barrel?

      seems like a good start
      but just so you know, the rust at the back underneath is definitely a lot more than surface
      stab it with a screwdriver, you'll see
      and there will undoubtedly be more you can't see

      good luck, have fun

    9. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 04:27 PM #9
      Yea I am aware of the rust.

      Has a weber carb.

    10. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 08:04 PM #10
      Here are some pics of the carb. Not sure where the black wire on the cylinder part goes?

    11. Member brad131a4's Avatar
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      01 S8 11 Golf TDI 77 rabbit in pieces behind garage.
      01-14-2012 03:07 AM #11
      If it's like the weber carbs on my fiat that is a isv. Should have key on power.

    12. Member #89's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 03:32 AM #12
      J-B,

      Welcome aboard. Good Schtuff ... thanks for sharing. How long do you estimate sitting?

      Mach Schnell!,
      #89
      Last edited by #89; 01-14-2012 at 10:44 AM.

    13. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 07:23 AM #13
      The guy i got if from bought the car in 2005. He had no tags on it. for like a year. Don't think it sat to long.

      @Brad. Thanks!

    14. 01-14-2012 10:08 AM #14
      "Not sure where the black wire on the cylinder part goes"

      That is the bowl vent solenoid, and the black power wire showing goes to a wire that is spliced-off another black wire going to the choke heater.

      The choke heater, idle shut-off solenoid, and frequency valve, all black power wires, trace back into a common junction, which in turn takes 12v switched-on power (15) from the ignition switch.

      The 1984 stock carbs were a mess of wires and vacuum hoses.

      The stock 1984 Carter TYF carburetor had a barometric pressure compensator. Used a choke heater and an intake manifold heater, too.

      Common upgrade was the Redline kit consisting of the Weber DFEV with a Cannon intake manifold.
      Last edited by chickenfriend; 01-14-2012 at 10:21 AM.

    15. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 10:32 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by chickenfriend View Post
      "Not sure where the black wire on the cylinder part goes"

      That is the bowl vent solenoid, and the black power wire showing goes to a wire that is spliced-off another black wire going to the choke heater.

      The choke heater, idle shut-off solenoid, and frequency valve, all black power wires, trace back into a common junction, which in turn takes 12v switched-on power (15) from the ignition switch.

      The 1984 stock carbs were a mess of wires and vacuum hoses.

      The stock 1984 Carter TYF carburetor had a barometric pressure compensator. Used a choke heater and an intake manifold heater, too.

      Common upgrade was the Redline kit consisting of the Weber DFEV with a Cannon intake manifold.
      Can I still get the Redline upgrade kit? This thing is a mess of vacume lines. I have deleted several of them, car seems to idle fine, and starts up well. Once i get tags i will really be able to test it out.

      Thanks for the info. I will try to get this stuff hooked up correctly. Or can i just remove some of it? I live in FL no inspection here.

    16. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 12:34 PM #16
      Oh and before anyone tries to flame me Bently is on the way, and this is not my first rodeo under the hood of a car, just my first Mk1. I have also been reading online about these great cars for about 3 months. It has just been really hard to find any info on this carb. From what i have read the bently doesnt even cover it. So anyone with the same model carb feel free to lend me a hand. Thanks!

    17. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 12:51 PM #17
      Looks like a nice start. Just keep it classy kid

    18. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 01:01 PM #18
      No worries, I am keeping the square headlights,steel wheels. I will most likely throw some cheap coil overs on it, but i am not trying to slam it to the ground.

      Before all of that though it need to run correctly and i need to find a new front bumber.

    19. Member brad131a4's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 03:03 PM #19
      I'd chuck that carb and get something a little better. I wish I could remember who used to make manifolds that would direct bolt dual idf or ida webers. or a single one if preferred. Might google Pierce Manifolds I think they are still around. Weber USA I think still sells carbs, linkage and manifolds for the rabbit. I know they still have a lot for the aircooled side of the vw market.

    20. 01-14-2012 03:55 PM #20
      Pierce would be good to deal with.

      The way I see it, if you have a strong leaning to keeping it an economical carburetor, then the K402 Redline Weber DFEV Kit would be my primary suggestion. Typically, the kit for this car is pre-jetted so it will run ok right off the bat. 33-37 mpg is what I typically get with it.

      You have to use a large enough idle jet, and low enough idle speed (850 rpm) so that the transition ports are not exposed during idle, since that increases the tendency of the carb to run-on or diesel when the engine is shut-off. The DFEV does not have a fuel cut-off solenoid to prevent this.

      If you don't have time to get into the engine bay, and want to keep it running (if it is), replace the surely rotten fuel hoses between the sender and the metal lines under the car. Those two lines are about 2 feet each. Use R9 fuel injection hose, not R7. This keeps the mechanical fuel pump on the block from pulling in air from bad hose.

      If you want to turn it into a fuel injection and you want extra power, then consider the ABA swap route with the OBDII harness. Some use the ABA block with the 1.8L counterflow head and a CIS-e timing system. You would need to swap to a new fuel injection gas tank (Spectra 4B), and add in a high pressure fuel pump.

      Then there are the 16V 1.8 and 16v 2.0L swaps, VR6 swaps, and diesel swaps.

      If simply want to use the 1984 CIS-l system, then buy another Rabbit with fi and transfer everything over, including gas tank.

      There are lots of other options, too, but I will keep this short. If interested, there are years of information in the forum archives.


      =====
      The Bentley does not cover this carburetor.

      What you would need is VW Product Circular Group 22 Number 83-02, Corporate Service Publications, 23p. That also covers the wiring with the ECU, since the carb is feedback controlled, fine-tuned by readings from the O2 sensor.
      Last edited by chickenfriend; 01-14-2012 at 05:29 PM.

    21. Member AudiUrPnts's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 04:12 PM #21
      Nice trailer park find, i knew they were good for something.

    22. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 04:58 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by chickenfriend View Post
      Pierce would be good to deal with.

      The way I see it, if you have a strong leaning to keeping it an economical carburetor, then the Redline Weber DFEV Kit would be my primary suggestion. Typically, the kit for this car is pre-jetted so it will run ok right off the bat. 33-37 mpg is what I typically get with it.

      You have to use a large enough idle jet, and low enough idle speed (850 rpm) so that the transition ports are not exposed during idle, since that increases the tendency of the carb to run-on or diesel when the engine is shut-off. The DFEV does not have a fuel cut-off solenoid to prevent this.

      If you don't have time to get into the engine bay, and want to keep it running (if it is), replace the surely rotten fuel hoses between the sender and the metal lines under the car. Those two lines are about 2 feet each. Use R9 fuel injection hose, not R7. This keeps the mechanical fuel pump on the block from pulling in air from bad hose.

      If you want to turn it into a fuel injection and you want extra power, then consider the ABA swap route with the OBDII harness. Some use the ABA block with the 1.8L counterflow head and a CIS-e timing system. You would need to swap to a new fuel injection gas tank (Spectra 4B), and add in a high pressure fuel pump.

      Then there are the 16V 1.8 and 16v 2.0L swaps, VR6 swaps, and diesel swaps.

      If simply want to use the 1984 CIS-l system, then buy another Rabbit with fi and transfer everything over, including gas tank.

      There are lots of other options, too, but I will keep this short. If interested, there are years of information in the forum archives.


      =====
      The Bentley does not cover this carburetor.

      What you would need is VW Product Circular Group 22 Number 83-02, Corporate Service Publications, 23p. That also covers the wiring with the ECU, since the carb is feedback controlled, fine-tuned by readings from the O2 sensor.
      Well i just got inside from fixing the leaky thermostat gasket. The car runs really well. I would like to keep the carb for now. I would like to upgrade. While i was working on it i noticed that the rubber "riser"(Piece between the carb and manifold) for the carb is cracked, am may have an air leak.

      I want to get really familiar with this motor before i do any swaps of any kind.

      Thanks for all the comments.

    23. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 05:17 PM #23

    24. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 05:21 PM #24
      With the DFEV Kit, am i getting an adaptor for my stock intake manifold or do i have to get a new one?

    25. 01-14-2012 05:32 PM #25
      Seek and ye shall find:


    26. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 06:29 PM #26
      Thanks! Just sent them an email about it.

    27. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 08:34 PM #27
      Could someone confirm for me that the front axle nut size is 30mm?

    28. Member buggydubbin's Avatar
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      84 4 dr rabbit. 91 gti ABA. 01 passat. 68 railbuggy i guess?
      01-14-2012 08:45 PM #28
      yep 30mm. like a lot of vw's
      my bunny can buy beer but i cant

    29. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 09:07 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by chickenfriend View Post
      Seek and ye shall find:

      So around 500 bucks to upgrade, let's hope the stock one with modified vac. lines works.

    30. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-15-2012 03:32 PM #30
      Pass side cv axle and ball joint replaced! This car is super easy to work on!

    31. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-18-2012 07:35 AM #31
      "If you don't have time to get into the engine bay, and want to keep it running (if it is), replace the surely rotten fuel hoses between the sender and the metal lines under the car. Those two lines are about 2 feet each. Use R9 fuel injection hose, not R7. This keeps the mechanical fuel pump on the block from pulling in air from bad hose."

      So the Car runs really well, anyone know what vacuum lines are necessary on this setup? I live in a warm area so not worried about a choke or anything. Just want to get it as simple as possible.

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      01-18-2012 09:19 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Jesse-B View Post
      "If you don't have time to get into the engine bay, and want to keep it running (if it is), replace the surely rotten fuel hoses between the sender and the metal lines under the car. Those two lines are about 2 feet each. Use R9 fuel injection hose, not R7. This keeps the mechanical fuel pump on the block from pulling in air from bad hose."

      So the Car runs really well, anyone know what vacuum lines are necessary on this setup? I live in a warm area so not worried about a choke or anything. Just want to get it as simple as possible.
      I would assume that the only important vacuum hose on that weber set up would be the vacuum advance to the distributor and the vacuum line to the brake booster.

    33. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-18-2012 11:18 AM #33
      That is how it is currently hooked up. Seems to idle fine and run well. Just have to get tags and insurance so I can actually drive it on the road. Also have to figure out the fan(someone has it wired so it is always on. And the battery is draining over night.

      Also some idiot wired in an autozone key ignition.

    34. Member Jesse-B's Avatar
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      01-24-2012 07:19 AM #34
      Worked a little more on it this weekend. Found out my water pump is leaking, fixed the battery drain(glove box light was stuck on). Removed the bumper(it was bent)

      Need to figure out how to get my fan hooked up correctly. it was wired to the ignition so it is always on. Bently is on the way soon so i can figure what the PO did to it.

      Anyone know what color wires are suppost to be going to the fan?

    35. Member keeton's Avatar
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      02-02-2012 11:21 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by Jesse-B View Post
      Worked a little more on it this weekend. Found out my water pump is leaking, fixed the battery drain(glove box light was stuck on). Removed the bumper(it was bent)

      Need to figure out how to get my fan hooked up correctly. it was wired to the ignition so it is always on. Bently is on the way soon so i can figure what the PO did to it.

      Anyone know what color wires are suppost to be going to the fan?
      Are you replacing the bumper or leaving it off?

      Also...can't help you on wire colors for the fan, but test the temp switch. That could be why it was just hooked up to key on power.

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