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    Thread: T3 Touareg

    1. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 07:53 PM #1
      In my garage...

      March 2009 we got silver on black Audi Q5 3.2L and now with 70k on odo it's gone.

      Replaced by black on black 2012 Touareg TDI Sport with navi.

      No more panorama woohoo!!! (I have Q5 thread on vortex Audi Q5 forum and there is few pages about the panorama)

      Anyways, this is going to be similar "ongoing thread" where I will add the VAG-COM coding and what ever service and work I do to mine.















      Last edited by kleinbus; 02-03-2012 at 07:34 AM.

    2. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 07:56 PM #2
      Few VAG-COM mods...

      Just to be clear, the codes I post may be my discovery or may not. This is not about taking credit from someone elses work as like the Q5 thread where I collected VAG-COM codes and part numbers and DIY service info, this thread is going to follow same structure.


      Updated 16 Sep 2012

      Before you read further, these are codings I have tested on my 2012 TDI and I take responsibility for what I do to mine but you do any of these at your own risk.

      This disclaimer "proceed at your own risk" is added after on other forum someone came bitching about reading my vag-com codings on Vortex and the 001568 code causing high oil pressure on his car.

      ANYONE working with vag-com should know the basic rules and here is few good to start from...

      - Before doing any coding change, take FULL SCAN from your vehicle and save it as original file so you have backup and you can always go back to what it was.

      - Manufacturing date may change control modules on very same trim's so each car can be different and coding may work or may not work.


      Now back to coding,

      Bytes have 8 digit counting from RIGHT SIDE (00000000), counting starts from zero, not from one (e.g. 012345... not 12345...) and with alphabets I have marked the individual digit to be changed.


      Zeros and A,B,C etc are just to pinpoint digit itself, zero does not mean you have zero or 1 (different country different settings)
      If VAG-COM does not have explanations on specific bytes then you have to manually overwrite byte.


      Known transmission coding - 16 Sep 2012

      001168 (binary calculation by member on other forum)
      001368 (factory code for 4Motion vehicles sold in US)
      001568 (factory code for 4Motion vehicles sold in Germany)


      Gear display next to D or S

      Change C,B and A to 1
      02-Auto Trans -> Byte 1: 00010101







      After the coding, reset the transmission with following procedure...

      On P -->
      turn power on (don't start) -->
      press accelerator all way down (to kick down) and keep it floored 30 seconds -->
      release the pedal -->
      turn the power off -->
      get out and lock the doors -->
      unlock the car -->
      start the car and drive off like you normally drive so the transmission learns the drivers driving pattern.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 09-16-2012 at 11:36 AM.

    3. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 07:57 PM #3
      Bright front LED for light switch parking lights position with >< sign
      (normal park position LED's are half from DRL brightness):

      Change A to 1
      Central Elect -> Byte 3: Bit 2: 00000A00
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-15-2012 at 06:26 PM.

    4. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 08:01 PM #4
      Finally got the tint...

      - 5% stripe on windshield,
      - 38% film on front doors,
      - 5 % film on rest (rear and trunk)



    5. 01-14-2012 08:02 PM #5
      Looks great, just like ours. Can't wait to get a VAG so I can make a few changes too
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    6. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-14-2012 08:19 PM #6
      Trunk lid power open and close when trailer is connected.

      From factory the power open and close is disabled when trailer is connected to prevent the lid hitting the trailer.

      On my old Q5 the lid did open from trunk switch and as my trailer is not on the trunk lid way, I prefer the power operation...


      soooo......

      Trunk electronics,

      Security access 12345.




      From channel pick the opening and below activate it

      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-15-2012 at 06:26 PM.

    7. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-15-2012 06:21 PM #7
      Tilt passengers mirror down when reversing and passengers side mirror adjustment knob on R (on left hand drive cars)

      Mirror will return to original position once forward speed is higher than few mph... (it doesn't move back if standing still)

      Change A and B to 1
      Door Elect, Passenger -> Byte 4: Bit 2 and 6: 0B000A00


      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-29-2012 at 09:11 PM.

    8. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-16-2012 01:50 AM #8
      Convenience windows (close or open via keyfob)

      Change A to 1

      46 Central conv, byte 2, bit 2: 00000A00






      then click the car button on radio unit



      and go to remote control key



      and activate the windows you want.

      If vahicle haves panorama, it shows here as well and as heads up, the keyfob opening will only tilt the panel (not slide open) and closing will close the tilted or slide the open panel back to its place and close it.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 09-16-2012 at 11:49 AM.

    9. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 10:02 PM #9
      Paid visit to my dealer and asked if there happens to be any updates, recalls or so for the NA T3 diesel.

      I got printout from AdBlue software update but they are not going to update it until the warning light comes on.











      From VAG-COM scan I can see mine haves the old SW number so it would need to be updated

    10. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 10:20 PM #10
      My old Audi Q5 used to squeak the brakes once a blue moon after the brake pads got glassy.

      Squeak can be removed many ways, one changes the brake pads and one grinds the surface to break the glassy layer.

      I just picked a moment on straight road when no one else was there, accelerated up to 70 mph and stepped on the brakes like it was emergency braking and braked all the way down to 1 mph but I don't stop so the discs and brake pads doesn't stop rotating and have uneven thermal expansion / cooling.

      First of all I make sure there is no flying junk around as they will fly to front!!

      Usually first braking gives feeling nothing happens (depending how glassy the pads are), second makes me lean against the steering wheel and third activates the ABS brakes so I know the trird time there is actual friction between the pads and discs.

      After 3rd I drive off about 5 miles to cool down the brakes and then gat back home.

      The issue is that public roads are not for this kind things but I haven't found another place with straight line path to do this so I just need to be careful there is no officers and other drivers....
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-22-2012 at 02:04 PM.

    11. 01-20-2012 09:27 AM #11
      Excellent suggestion, and one I've also made. In addition, I'd suggest doing it in reverse once or twice, just not quite as fast...
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    12. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-21-2012 07:28 PM #12
      Some LED work....

      I got two wedge base bulbs to test how those would work on interior lights and would it be any brighter...

      Guinea pigs are the front spot lights.

      Tearing down...








      the color difference, left is LED and right is OEM incandescent bulb.






      Both installed and the frame mounted back. I left the dome light lense crack open so I wouldn't need to open the frame again when I change the bulbs.





      Finally I got more and swapped the rest:
      - front dome
      - rear spot lights
      - trunk red/clear lid light



      The front cover comes off by peeling the dome cover down from very back (where it curves up) and gently continue all the way to front.

      I will update the front picture once I bother taking one...


      The rear spot lights

      With clean flat screwdriver and clean hands...
      - press the flat end in from #1 and pull out just enough that the front clip is released,
      - then #2 just enough that the light housing side clip moves out,
      - then #3 just enough that the light housing side clip moves out,
      - follow the green arrow #4, it starts from alignment tabs, the front of light housing have to be lifted off from those slots, then pull the housing forward and out.




      and the whole interior







      LED's used,

      - Front dome, front spot and rear spot lights:

      Wedge base 194/168



      - Trunk:

      (will update once I get the led's)
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-30-2012 at 02:01 AM.

    13. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 01:52 PM #13
      reserved for the tail lights with LED bulbs... (will update once I get more)


      So far, the LED reverse bulbs I got will give bulb error so I need to find the "can-bus" LED bulbs and if I can't find then incandecent it shall be


      I also got one red LED bulb for the tail lights and the red bulb makes the L shape stand out much better than with incandecent bulb.

      I have to do more testing to see does the brake light bulb trigger bulb error or not...

      Will report back
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-25-2012 at 11:08 PM.

    14. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 01:56 PM #14
      The trailer 7 pin socket




      is common RV part and is available on most trailer and RV shops so if VW dealer is saying it's 60 bucks then they can go screw themselves.

      http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...FWhjTAodWUMOfA

      As a reminder, it's not just plug&play as there is the VAG-COM coding required to activate the trailer module so don't go and buy the socket thinking one can just bolt it on and go.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-22-2012 at 01:58 PM.

    15. Member fleuger99's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 07:01 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by kleinbus View Post
      The trailer 7 pin socket

      As a reminder, it's not just plug&play as there is the VAG-COM coding required to activate the trailer module so don't go and buy the socket thinking one can just bolt it on and go.
      VW should do the VAGCOM when one buys the Touareg with a tow pkg. What a rip off charging extra!

    16. 01-22-2012 09:03 PM #16
      Pardon the dumb question, but what's wrong with the panorama sunroof? Gee, maybe I should start a new thread with that question, I've heard people complain about the pano roof before.

    17. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 09:40 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by fleuger99 View Post
      VW should do the VAGCOM when one buys the Touareg with a tow pkg. What a rip off charging extra!
      In a way I do agree you as a customer all this makes me feel we are money cows they milk money as much as they can.

      On the other hand, if I would own a business where service is the sector to make money then I would bill customer from everything, dang I wouldn't shake the hand if you didn't have money on it

      Seriously I ran my own business back in Finland for almost 10 years and that is not the way I treated my customers. This whole topic is tricky as without money the car dealer owner can pay his fancy house yadda yadda, I believe you get the picture....

      Heck I just did some VAG-COM tweaks for another Touareg owner about 50 miles away and he told me his dealer wants about 80 bucks from taking whole scan from the vehicle to see the coding and possible errors. Wow and I just clicked the "scan" button and while waiting the computer to do its job we sat there BS's about this and that...



      Quote Originally Posted by Hoosierdub View Post
      Pardon the dumb question, but what's wrong with the panorama sunroof? Gee, maybe I should start a new thread with that question, I've heard people complain about the pano roof before.
      This is something that is depended on the individual desires and location where person lives.

      My opinion is based on two cars with full roof panorama we owned.

      - 2009 VW Tiguan 4Motion with panorama,




      - 2009 Audi Q5 Premium Plus with panorama,




      At the moment we live near by Kansas City and here temperatures vary from zero to 110F and from almost dry to almost 100% humidity (100% humidity doesn't mean rain)

      Tiguan we got late 2008 and for few weeks it was without tints to feel what it would be with such panorama. Way too hot and we didn't like to blast the A/C all the time so hop hop to tinting shop,
      - darkest 5% tint to roof,
      - darkest 5% tints to rear doors and trunk,

      With perforated cover closed it was doable but constant reminder that it was there. With 5% tint it came so dark that we couldn't see through so what was the point of it?

      Here during the summer we couldn't slide open the roof as soon it would had been zoo of all possible bugs one could find.

      Cutting such slide off from steel roof WILL affect the body torsional rigidity so we had weird clicks and creaks here and there.

      I'm pretty fanatic with the cars and I get nuts with those sounds as too often I drive with radio off and listen the road humm from tires so any weird sound will stick out and get my attention.


      Traded Tiguan to Q5 with panorama as no panorama was special order.

      Repeated the same "no tints for few weeks" and hop hop to tinting shop as it was same thing, way too hot. Sure we liked the ability to see through the panorama but once the 95F day came, we knew it was time to go to tinting shop.

      Q5 had more creaks and clicks, dealer didn't give a crap so I removed back portition of roof panel, front door panels etc to eliminate the sounds that shouldn't be there. I got rid of most but few kept bugging me.

      Summary: On both cars, the panorama absorbed the sun heat (infrared rays during the summer) and ambient coldness (during the winter) and if me or wife kept our hand close the panorama glass, one felt the heat or cold radiation from glass.

      I have nothing against the small moonroof we have on our Jetta but panorama is just something we both don't like.

      While hunting down the Touareg, the first thing we checked was no panorama and months later accidently we stopped by at one dealer, saw one black on black TDI and one thing lead to another and now Q5 is gone and replaced by Touareg TDI (without panorama).

      Touareg with full roof interior panel is so quiet, temperature is more stable as the roof panel insulates the steel roof and even if the steel roof would radiate the heat or cold, the roof panel is the insulator.

      No weird clicks and creaks nor other weird sounds so I guess the roof makes difference on torsional rigidity.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-27-2012 at 01:10 AM.

    18. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-23-2012 12:29 AM #18
      Back to T3...

      The headlight adjustment,

      On my previous Q5 the xenon (not adaptive with right-left movement) required VAG-COM work to lock the leveling to service position and then adjust the lights up or down as needed and then release the leveling from service position.

      My T3's headlights are pointing tad low and I wanted to raise them just a click or two but so far I have been unable to find the VAG-COM coding nor the security code to access the xenon module to get the lights to service position.

      So today evening I popped the hood up, parked the car to driveway and had lights on and pointing to the garage door to see the level and how the light pattern moves during the adjustment, with screwdriver on the adjusting screw I turned the lights up few clicks.

      Went to drive around to see and now the lights are better.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-23-2012 at 12:31 AM.

    19. Member KPSII's Avatar
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      01-23-2012 07:03 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by kleinbus View Post
      Few VAG-COM mods...

      Just to be clear, the codes I post may be my discovery or may not. This is not about taking credit from someone elses work as like the Q5 thread where I collected VAG-COM codes and part numbers and DIY service info, this thread is going to follow same structure.


      The gear display on D and S.

      Bytes have 8 digit counting from RIGHT SIDE (00000000), counting starts from zero, not from one (e.g. 012345... not 12345...) and with alphabets I have marked the individual digit to be changed.



      Zeros and A,B,C etc are just to pinpoint digit itself, zero does not mean you have zero or 1 (different country different settings)
      If VAG-COM does not have explanations on specific bytes then you have to manually overwrite byte.


      Gear display next to D or S

      Change A to zero
      02-Auto Trans -> Byte 1: Bit 1: 000000A0
      Kleinbus

      First off - Greatly appreciate the share . . . Unfortunately, I was unable to get this to work for my T3V6 - kept getting error message , soemting to do w/the code not being acceptable/compatible.

      Could it be because yours is TDI
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    20. 01-23-2012 09:28 AM #20
      Kleinbus,
      Congrats on your purchase! She looks sweet.

    21. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-23-2012 09:51 PM #21
      Had little road trip today, about 25 miles to another town on relatively flat road on 55 mph limit going about 60 mph and little tail wind....

      For true fuel consumption I don't rely on car computer as I keep fuel book where I log the day / miles / gallons / cost / location but so far I don't have enough fillups to do calculations...

      Anyways, this is for entertainment and I didn't reset the meter on fly (which gives even higher average) so this is as true as car computer can be...

      Last edited by kleinbus; 02-25-2012 at 11:23 PM.

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      01-24-2012 09:41 PM #22
      Actually, the price for this socket on the sticker is $140 if it came with the vehicle. (port installed) $84 from the parts department. But you can buy it from Waytek electrical supplies for $8.99.

      Also, if your vehicle came with the hitch, it should already be coded. If not, the dealer will/should code it for no charge as part of the pre-delivery prep..

    23. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-25-2012 04:13 PM #23
      Most of the new 2012 T3 Touareg's we checked on several dealers lot had 2" hitch receiver tube but no socket and I assume no coding either.

    24. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-28-2012 08:39 PM #24
      Eyeballing groovier tires and maybe slight suspension lift...


      Nitto Terra Grappler is available on....



      - 255/55 R18
      - 255/60 R18




      and the suspension lift is something I have to sort out. I know German SEIKEL makes new struts but I rather spend that 2k for power module to kick out more torque

      Planning to order 25mm think aluminum plates and machine spacers between the shock and chassis

      Time will show what comes out from this cooking
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-28-2012 at 09:22 PM.

    25. Member Yeti35's Avatar
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      01-29-2012 08:54 AM #25
      Not sure how the T3's are, but if the intercooler vents are on the inner front fender wells like previous gen Tregs, you may get rubbing if you go over a 30.5" diameter tire.

    26. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-29-2012 07:57 PM #26
      Yep I have seen the 30.5 and rubbing reports on other forum's so I thought to play safe and stay either OEM diameter or next bigger.

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      01-30-2012 10:47 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by kleinbus View Post
      Most of the new 2012 T3 Touareg's we checked on several dealers lot had 2" hitch receiver tube but no socket and I assume no coding either.

      If it comes with the hitch, it should already be coded. On all 4 Touaregs I've had that came with the hitch, including my 2011 TDI Lux, all I had to do was install the Pollack socket and it worked. Hitches are installed at port and then coded. If its not, the dealer should do it as part of the predelivery prep.

    28. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-31-2012 09:31 AM #28



      I didn't have the vag-com cable with me nor keys for each car while checked each T-reg so I really don't know was those coded or not so I will end this "it was - it wasn't".

      Thanks to slimebag dealer, mine wasn't no matter I made clear I was heading to 1100 miles trip towing a trailer.

      Next morning at home I connected the trailer to check does the drawbar keep the trailer on level I wanted and would the lights work as I had no issues on the Audi I used to tow the trailer.

      Kneeled down to connect the plug to find out there was no socket. Lucky me it was Saturday so I drove back and shared my with sales manager, who didn't give a crap and I ended up paying the socket and coding as I didn't have time to play around with vag-com and have chance it might not work as I had to load the trailer and hit the road that very same night.

      I just got the customer experience review survey and I spent long moment to share what happened and checked the box for VW NA to feel free to call if there was something unclear about the situation and why I ranked the Utah dealer as one of the last places I would go again...


      On my previous Audi's and VW's the towing module was not coded.
      Last edited by kleinbus; 01-31-2012 at 10:13 PM.

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      01-31-2012 11:58 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by kleinbus View Post
      and the suspension lift is something I have to sort out. I know German SEIKEL makes new struts but I rather spend that 2k for power module to kick out more torque

      Planning to order 25mm think aluminum plates and machine spacers between the shock and chassis

      Time will show what comes out from this cooking
      As you raise the vehicle up more and more, doesn't that put more stress on the CV joints, axles and prop shaft as the angles at which they have to work are greater?

    30. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      01-31-2012 12:34 PM #30
      Yes and that is why I have no intention to go crazy with this...

      At curb weigth the axles are pretty horizontal so I have to test what 10mm or 20mm spacer between the strut and chassis do.

      I'm not much worried about the curb (normal) driving position as the shock all the way out (extended) while wheel is hanging on air is the most extreme position and with spacer the angle gets greater but such situation means I'm off-roading and speeds are walking speeds, not going 90mph.

      The aluminum isn't expensive and but the machining is so all I waste is time with machining and fitting and measuring as at the end, if it doesn't please my eye then I will trash the idea as this is my daily drive so durability is more important than suspension lift.

      If I wanna do serious off-roading, I will get either Mercedes Unimog or Pinzgauer 4x4 or 6x6

    31. Member Yeti35's Avatar
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      01-31-2012 05:35 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by kleinbus View Post



      I just got the customer experience review survey and I spent long moment to share what happened and checked the box for VW NA to feel free to call if there was something unclear about the situation and why I ranked the Utah dealer as one of the last places I would go again...
      I am curious, what dealer was it, Strongs or Southtowne?

    32. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      02-02-2012 07:07 PM #32
      Bad rap got the right peoples attention as after the customer satisfaction review I filled up, today I got email from the company and they will reimburse me the amount I paid to get the electric socket installed and trailer module activated.

      Long term "dealer testing" shall proceed

    33. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      02-02-2012 08:42 PM #33
      Went to test how VAG-COM measures the acceleration and once I figure out how to measure the elevation change then this will get much better...

      Slight uphill on D from stand still.


    34. 02-03-2012 12:11 AM #34
      I found this very interesting and made a copy of the SB to give to my dealer next week at the follow-up appt. kleinbus we have the exact same car, I picked mine up at a downtown KC dealer. Not to happy with some of the ongoing problems but gotta say, I love the Treg, the motor and the way she tows. After my recent service the AD Blue light cam on and said I had 1400 miles of Ad Blu miles remaining. I was a bit put off that they didn't actually service the blue juice during it's scheduled service. Took the car back for the other problems and they couldn't figure out why the service light came on since they said they did service the AD Blue. Perhaps the SB may be warranted.

      Other issues: Drop Bluetooth connectivity, poor cell phone reception through car, rear wiper misses a 4 inch swath a couple inches up from the bottom, repeated wheel vibration, Headlight beam "Jiggles" with road bumps. All those aside and one of the most frustrating issues, why oh why can't the key FOBs be programed. Example, you can open the rear hatch with the FOB, accidently leave your FOB laying inside the rear of the vehicle, press the hatch button and OOPS, the hatch closes, locks and Oh Yes all the other doors never unlocked so your stuck... call a taxi cause your walkin.

      I’d be very interested in talking with the local KC Touareg people to do some Vag COm upgrades and others changes, like small lift, aggressive winter treads etc..., bobby
      Last edited by bby356; 02-03-2012 at 09:00 PM.

    35. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Dec 14th, 2011
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      76
      Vehicles
      2012 Touareg TDI with Nav., 2008 Porsche C2S, 2003 M-B E320
      02-03-2012 10:49 AM #35
      After adding the urea, it is important to turn the ignition to "on" without starting the vehicle and wait for at least 30 seconds. This enables the computer to recognize the urea level in the tank. I wonder if the service folks follow this procedure.

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