Camber plates are the only "ST-legal" way to add camber. Ball-joint and or tie-rod relocation is not. The way to "fix" the LCA angle is to run tall, stiff springs, like Shine.
#1
Hello,
The only thing I want to do to my ST(C?) class VR Wagon this year is front end geometry.
1. Camber (upper strut mount)
2. LCA angle
3. possable tie rod flip
My question is about getting the LCA angle down. As of now they are about level to slightly up with the subframe.
I've seen the TT spindle/LCA swap before but thats not going to happen ($$$).
So what I'm thinking is to relocate a Mk4 Ball Joint to the TOP of the LCA. Make a plate to go inside the LCA and run longer bolts through the whole thing.
Then I may need to do a tie rod flip. (I'm a machinist and will be drilling/reaming the old tapers and pressing new tapered bushings into the spindle) <-- If needed.
Has anyone done anything to fix the LCA angle on their Mk4's?
Thanks.![]()
Last edited by XvwX; 01-16-2012 at 03:55 PM.
#2
Camber plates are the only "ST-legal" way to add camber. Ball-joint and or tie-rod relocation is not. The way to "fix" the LCA angle is to run tall, stiff springs, like Shine.
#3
Hummmmm. Well, DSP might be calling. If thats allowed in _SP.
Either way I don't want to raise the ride height. I love the lowered look. So here is my LCA angle.
Yuck.
#4
Its not DSP legal either, geometry correction using the factory pickup points is a SM modification.
The method which you are describing does not correct the geometry issues that arise from lowering, the pivot point is still at the same location in space. All you would be doing is correcting the angle on the control arm bushings.
#5
Unfortunately, what looks good and what performs don't go hand and hand when dealing with a mk iv. If looks are that important, then you'll have to pony up the coin for the h2sport spindles along with other mods.
Or do what I did - leave the wagon alone and bought another car...
#6
So by lowering the outboard side of the LCA that wouldn't correct the geometry?
2. On arm-and-strut (MacPherson/Chapman) suspensions, the lowerarms may be modified/replaced OR other methods of camber adjustmentas allowed by paragraphs 14.8.B, C, or G may be used,but not both. This is from the ST_ rules.
Ian, I know I can't help it. HA!
#7
Maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how this would change the suspension geometry. Remember that it actually has nothing to do with the LCA position, only with the imaginary line between the LCA - chassis bushing pivot point and the ball joint pivot point. The only way to change it is to raise the chassis side (hard to do), or lower the ball joint relative to the hub - thus the widespread use of ball joint extensions and alternate bearing carriers.
Chris
2007 GTI 16v, 4 door, 6sp (well really that one is Brandy's)
2004.5 Passat Wagon 20v, 1.8t, 4mo, 5sp
1986 GTI 8v road racer - DIYAutoTune.com
#8
Eyyyyyyyyyyyyyye gotchya! I see now. I stand corrected. Hu, so the only camber option without spending a small fortune is upper strut mount then.
Well, it def looks like I'm staying in ST_ now!
Thanks for talking some sence into me!
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#9
As per my post in the stickied control arm install
I need to replace my control arm bushing and I already have the upgraded bushes (R32/TT).
I cant seem to find a part number for them new WITHOUT bushes already pushed in. Does anyone know it?
Also while im at it, is there a OEM 'upgrade' for the control arms?
Last edited by tireboy; 03-06-2012 at 07:47 PM.
#10
If you want to fix your geometry, raise the car up about 2-4in, & get a proper alignment.
Right now, your car is too low, & the LCA angle is way off, you want it level, or a little turned down, not up as you have it. Your caster, bump steer & akerman angle is all wrong. The only thing you get form being this low is camber.
You are also putting a lot more stress on the drive shafts.
Best thing is to find the class leader, ask him how his car is set up.