MK6 Replica Style HID Headlights from Ed are Back!

[seeuarndjimmy]

i'm trying to order the D2H Morimoto Elite bulbs from the retrofitsource.com, but getting confused. What harness and harness type will fit these headlights? H7/ Standalone Can-Bus? will this throw an error light code do i also need a relay? thanks and bear with the newb!

[elro]

i'm trying to order the D2H Morimoto Elite bulbs from the retrofitsource.com, but getting confused. What harness and harness type will fit these headlights? H7/ Standalone Can-Bus? will this throw an error light code do i also need a relay? thanks and bear with the newb!

I’m still a noob myself when it come HIDs, but here is what I understand so far and please feel free to correct me if my assumptions are wrong. You should be able to use a 9006 or H7 type of harness to connect to the output leads coming from the headlights as they are very similar. The use of a can-bus harness is supposed to prevent bulb error code, but there are plenty of installations that work well without a canbus harness and they do not get any bulb out codes. With or without a canbus harness, you can experience poor bulb starts or flickering as a result of insufficient amperage to properly ignite the ballasts and bulbs, but I believe many of these issues can be resolved with a few code changes to the CECM. If you choose to use a relay harness, you will draw all the power required to start and run the ballasts directly from the battery and you shouldn’t have any flicker or start up issues. The relay should also offer you better protection from any associated electrical damage, but the down side is that you will get a bulb error code because you only draw power from one light to energize the relay coil. I emailed The Retrofit Source several times and they confirmed that you can use both the can-bus harnesses and a relay harness together. This would give you the benefits of both harnesses. The more I read about the changes you can make with the CECEM coding, I’m beginning to believe that you may not need either one.

[seeuarndjimmy]

Thanks Elro. I ended up purchasing the D2H Morimoto Elite HID H7 harness/Stand alone canbus. I'll share pics/feedback of the system and the headlights when installed. If they flicker i'll try the relays.

ALSO IF BUYING FROM RETROFITSOURCE USE PROMO CODE: TRSRCFS
for free shipping

[elro]

Thanks for the free shipping code seeuarndjimmy, unfortunately it doesn’t apply to shipments outside of the USA and I still haven’t decided on the bulbs or the kit. The D2H kit should give you a clean and easy installation, but I’m not convinced that you’ll actually need the Can-Bus as long as you have access to VCDS. If you were to go with the OEM HID lights, there wouldn’t be the need of a Can-Bus or a relay harness. You may have to change your CECM to a highline, add the ballasts, a couple of wires and bulbs, but the rest would all be handled through code changes in the CECM. I’m looking forward to seeing your results.

[SuPeR GTi]

code changes such as bulb power saver and what else?

[elro]

code changes such as bulb power saver and what else?

I’m not sure what the final list of the suggested code changes will look like, but I understand that there are a couple of knowledgeable people working on it and it will likely include the disabling the bulb saver function. For now I compiling my own list from every thread that I find on this topic. DSGVW has the same lights from Ed’s first offering and he appears to be very satisfied with them and I know he’s helped a few people in Australia with their coding.

DSGVW
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=102
Glad to see others are now supporting the LEDs off with headlamps that I finally figured out. As I told qt25, just turn on DRLs, set all the "position lights as DRLs" on and then set BYTE 20 to GTI (rest of world for you). Now with parking and headlamps the LEDs are off and only on with switch to "off" or DRL only.

Good luck with it, mine has been working 100% for almost a month now.

[SuPeR GTi]

cool but im not looking to run the led's as drl at all. what vag com function will i need to disable/enable to make these suckers work without flickering or any other issues? as far as i know, disabling bulb saver function is a must? what else are you guys doing?

[edward@becautoparts.com]

cool but im not looking to run the led's as drl at all. what vag com function will i need to disable/enable to make these suckers work without flickering or any other issues? as far as i know, disabling bulb saver function is a must? what else are you guys doing?

Just disable your DRLs, and that would be it to avoid flickering or any bulb out errors.

[shirtsTDI]

Lights came in today. I am so totally giddy about this weekend. I will take pictures before, during and after.

[Apple Jacks JSW TDI]

Booyah! Just got mine, too!

[GlfSprtCT1]

same here!!! not a scratch or chip in either one. Thk Ed!!!!

[edward@becautoparts.com]

Thanks for all your reviews and support!!

For those interested, I still have a few sets available. Getting low on the chrome OEM style though.

[seeuarndjimmy]

Just installed the lights.

Nice cut off and high quality. Very close to the OEM ones build wise. Looking very close with a microscope you'll see some minors stuff such as paint inconsistencies. They are worth the money I paid. I heard some people have changed out the turning signals and i did the same. Anyone change the High Beam bulbs? I do have one out and it looked like it was soldered on? I could be wrong. I'll post some pics of the installed lights soon.

[seeuarndjimmy]

Just installed mine today! Ended up doing the LED's as DRL and turn off when low beams are on. I also replaced the turning signal bulb with some sylvania's 7440 amber lights. For HID's I ended up getting the DH2 Morimoto 6000k(can bus). I did have an issue with my right high beams not working. Ed said they're H1 bulbs. I'll try to install new H1 bulb and hopefully that'll solve the issue. Everything else is perfect except for the High Beams which isn't an issue, but the bulb light is bugging me.

[toneman]

looks good! in this last picture, do you lose your position lights with the headlights on with the way it is coded now?

[seeuarndjimmy]

i have it so the LED's are my DRL and at night the only lights on are the lowbeams.

[toneman]

that's helpful, thanks.

[Apple Jacks JSW TDI]

Upon install, everything looks phenomenal and I'm stoked.

I'm still trying to figure out the coding to get the LEDs as the DRLs and to get that nasty bulb out warning off my dash, but I'm a noob with that, so it'll just take some time.

I also need to replace the left turn signal, which went out after a day. No big deal there, hopefully it's just a bad egg.

Thanks again, Ed!

[cmrnowlin]

My stuck bulbs fit. They look awesome

[shirtsTDI]

Headlights are installed. Had an issue with ordering the wrong harness, but that will be fixed in the next couple days. I am so happy with the whole experience, and with the results. Thank you Ed for great customer service, and for providing us all with these headlights.

Here is how my car started this week:



And this is how it is now:

[GlfSprtCT1]

Anyone interested, i swapped both signals for amber 7440's, and sylvania makes an h1 silverstar. swapped those in too. went to a wall, marked them, backed up 30 ft and lined them up. gorgeous!!

Low beams - 6k hid



Highbeams!!

[seeuarndjimmy]

i'm trying to adjust my light cut off, but not quite sure how to do it. My right side seems to be pointing upwards and the left is straight. not sure if i have it backwards?

[GlfSprtCT1]

http://www.blindinghid.com/how-to-ad...id-headlights/

this should give you an idea of how to aim them.

This adjuster aims your up/down



On our Ed reps, there is another adjuster here that will let you adjust left/right

[jchase31]

Just paid my invoice for some R20s... stoked to put them in. Has anyone experimented with different bulbs for the hi-beams? Any recommendations for any 5000k to 6000k halogen bulbs?

[GlfSprtCT1]

Just paid my invoice for some R20s... stoked to put them in. Has anyone experimented with different bulbs for the hi-beams? Any recommendations for any 5000k to 6000k halogen bulbs?

1) wldnt suggest hid in the highbeam
2) Its a bi-xenon, plus the second projector is an h1 halogen , which also comes on with highbeam. Sylvania makes a silverstar in h1, which i think is pleeenty bright.

[shirtsTDI]

i have it so the LED's are my DRL and at night the only lights on are the lowbeams.

How did you do your coding for the LEDs to be your DRLs? Do you have a screenshot of the VAGCOM screen?

I am still up in the air about if I want my LEDs to be my DRLs, but even if I did, I would want to keep them on at night with the low beams on. I just think that is such a cool look.

[seeuarndjimmy]

How did you do your coding for the LEDs to be your DRLs? Do you have a screenshot of the VAGCOM screen?

I am still up in the air about if I want my LEDs to be my DRLs, but even if I did, I would want to keep them on at night with the low beams on. I just think that is such a cool look.

sorry i had OEMPLUS code my vagcom so i don't have a screen shot.

[edward@becautoparts.com]

Buy Now button to paypal is now up and will be up until they are sold out.

Running low on the Chromes, so if you like a set of these, order soon.

More lights are coming, but they wont be here until April

[dpg]

Hope this helps with some pictures for wiring. I ordered the H7 CAN Bus HID kit from TRS.com


Remove this from the CAN Bus harness.



Inside the housing the black and white wiring with the spade connectors will connect to the red and black spade connector that is part of the bulb wiring(with the black braided sheath wiring cover). Next take this plug with the sheath covering and attach it to the CAN Bus harness. Then plug the CAN Bus harness into the ballast. The metal braided sheath from the ballast then connects to the bulb wiring(blue and white). I cut a hole in the rubber cover to accept the rubber grommet of the bulb wiring.

I cut a hole in the rubber cover to accept the rubber grommet of the bulb wiring.


Not the best pictures but hope it helps a little bit along with the text

[esflash]

I have a few HID newB questions regarding these lights and the install.

Please bear with me -- I'd appreciate any help or insight -- I plan to install these into a 2010 TDI JSW - which should be close to a Golf MK VI install. I'm posing the questions to Ed as well as anyone else on the forum.

A few questions:

1) Availability ------- Do you still have the chromes in stock ($610 a pair including shipping; Texas?).

2) Additional Parts/Wiring ----- What else would I need? -- ballasts and bulbs (I'm a bit confused as to which bulbs though: D2H, D2S, H7) . As I read the posts in this thread, it sounds like the retrofitsource.com D2H kit is what many folks here have used. I'd order from them as they have gotten rave customer svc reveiews and can prbly help me sort some of this out as well.

So......Is the D2H kit the way to go?

I'd like bright white (4200K? or 5000K? -- would that be the correct temp for bright as possible "OEM" white?).


3) Drop In Replacement ----- Some months ago I added standard halogen fogs which meant the addition of a Euro switch (I got one without the "coming home" feature), trigger wire and relay wiring harness; along with removing the bumper/grills etc -- that fog light install was a
piece of cake. No problems -- I understand basic electronics, can follow instructions and I'm not intimidated to tear into things.

Are these headlights pretty much a drop in type of thing?

People who have done retrofits and have used various parts from different vendors
have mentioned flickering lights, melted housings, bulb out error messages, lights not working.......do I need to be concerned about any of those issues with these housings? Obviously, I want to know what to do to avoid these issues.

It sounds like using a dedicated HID relay wiring harness connected directly to 12 volts can prevent the the flickering issue -- but some people have installed resistors and caps -- again, I'm a bit cornfused about this. I also don't understand what is meant by a can bus wiring harness (again sorry for all the basic newB questions).

4) BiXenon -- Hi Low Beams --------- I understand that a mechanical shutter moves so a single HID bulb can toggle between high or low beams.

From the diagrams and pictures in this thread I don't understand how these biXenons switch from hi to low if the ballasts are triggered by the low beam supply wire; what is the wiring method I need in order to get the shutter to toggle between Xenon high/low beams, when I pull the
lever at the steering wheel?

5) LEDs as DRLs ------------ I'd like to use the LEDs as DRLs only -- I don't need them to be on when the headlights low/beams are on.

Do I still need to do any vagcom coding to have LED DRLs? The start of this thread talks about LED vag com coding. Can't the old DRL high beam connector make the LEDs work? -- I don't have a vagcom; but I can prbly get access to one. If necessary I can disable my DRLs via the turn signal lever. My 2010 TDI Sportwagen is early enough for the DRL on/off "stalk method" to work.

Sorry about all these basic questions; I'm trying to get a clearer idea of what I'm getting into before I pull the trigger on this retrofit and want to have this job go as smoothly as possible.

I've read so many varying things, on different boards about the dreaded halogen to HID retrofit.....everything from folks dremel tooling their current headlight housings apart in order to install projectors to people fitting ballasts and hid bulbs into the existing halogen
connectors/reflectors...a real mistake. So any help, insight or hand holding at this point would be appreciated..... especially from folks who have done this.

Thanks for your time -- Flash -- Austin TX

[dpg]

I have a few HID newB questions regarding these lights and the install.

Please bear with me -- I'd appreciate any help or insight -- I plan to install these into a 2010 TDI JSW - which should be close to a Golf MK VI install. I'm posing the questions to Ed as well as anyone else on the forum.

A few questions:

1) Availability ------- Do you still have the chromes in stock ($610 a pair including shipping; Texas?).

2) Additional Parts/Wiring ----- What else would I need? -- ballasts and bulbs (I'm a bit confused as to which bulbs though: D2H, D2S, H7) . As I read the posts in this thread, it sounds like the retrofitsource.com D2H kit is what many folks here have used. I'd order from them as they have gotten rave customer svc reveiews and can prbly help me sort some of this out as well.

So......Is the D2H kit the way to go?

I'd like bright white (4200K? or 5000K? -- would that be the correct temp for bright as possible "OEM" white?). I went with what TRS recommended for me and that was the H7 HID kit. I'm sure if you talk to someone else there they will recommend another. I think that if you go with the D2 kit you have more flexibility as far different bulb manufacturers available. They also recommended that since I am going with the 50W kit that I should go with 6k to match the LEDs. Also for the harness I went with the CAN Bus harness because it's less wiring mess with the relays and what not. With the CAN Bus its just a resistor type add in cable between the power and ballast.


3) Drop In Replacement ----- Some months ago I added standard halogen fogs which meant the addition of a Euro switch (I got one without the "coming home" feature), trigger wire and relay wiring harness; along with removing the bumper/grills etc -- that fog light install was a
piece of cake. No problems -- I understand basic electronics, can follow instructions and I'm not intimidated to tear into things.

Are these headlights pretty much a drop in type of thing? Yes they are drop in

People who have done retrofits and have used various parts from different vendors
have mentioned flickering lights, melted housings, bulb out error messages, lights not working.......do I need to be concerned about any of those issues with these housings? Obviously, I want to know what to do to avoid these issues. People have been running the first set of these lights for a while now with no melting issues that I have heard of. Nothing but great reviews from Ed and TRS.com

It sounds like using a dedicated HID relay wiring harness connected directly to 12 volts can prevent the the flickering issue -- but some people have installed resistors and caps -- again, I'm a bit cornfused about this. I also don't understand what is meant by a can bus wiring harness (again sorry for all the basic newB questions). CAN Bus harness is a resistor cable included instead of the relay mess. I'm not getting any flickering with the CAN Bus harness.

4) BiXenon -- Hi Low Beams --------- I understand that a mechanical shutter moves so a single HID bulb can toggle between high or low beams.

From the diagrams and pictures in this thread I don't understand how these biXenons switch from hi to low if the ballasts are triggered by the low beam supply wire; what is the wiring method I need in order to get the shutter to toggle between Xenon high/low beams, when I pull the
lever at the steering wheel? Not sure how these work either. They may have an internal trigger wire inside the housing that triggers the bixenon. I understand that both the bi xenon turn on and the inside light which is the halogen turn on.

5) LEDs as DRLs ------------ I'd like to use the LEDs as DRLs only -- I don't need them to be on when the headlights low/beams are on.

Do I still need to do any vagcom coding to have LED DRLs? The start of this thread talks about LED vag com coding. Can't the old DRL high beam connector make the LEDs work? -- I don't have a vagcom; but I can prbly get access to one. If necessary I can disable my DRLs via the turn signal lever. My 2010 TDI Sportwagen is early enough for the DRL on/off "stalk method" to work. You will need to do a recoding of some sort(I'm still waiting to find out how to code this piece as well)

Sorry about all these basic questions; I'm trying to get a clearer idea of what I'm getting into before I pull the trigger on this retrofit and want to have this job go as smoothly as possible.

I've read so many varying things, on different boards about the dreaded halogen to HID retrofit.....everything from folks dremel tooling their current headlight housings apart in order to install projectors to people fitting ballasts and hid bulbs into the existing halogen
connectors/reflectors...a real mistake. So any help, insight or hand holding at this point would be appreciated..... especially from folks who have done this.

Thanks for your time -- Flash -- Austin TX

See responses in bold italics

[esflash]

Thanks a lot -- for the clear explanations -- I guess the next stop would be retrofitsource with some questions and then actually dropping the cash.

[esflash]

ps ......any reasons why you went 55 instead of 35?

[dpg]

ps ......any reasons why you went 55 instead of 35?

They said that the 50W had a little more light output and for the same cost, why not, haha. They shipped really quickly as well was at my door in less than a week

[esflash]

Nice -- thanks