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    Thread: Brake light and ABS light come on under hard braking after changing rear calipers

    1. Member Deutschbag's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 01:51 PM #1
      So I just completed the mk4 aluminum rear caliper upgrade, did my e-brake cables while I was down there. They work and everything, my parking brake is nice and firm now. Turns out the right rear was the only one seized, but anyway:

      Now when I hit the brakes hard, the ABS light and red brake light come on, then go off. I tried braking pretty hard and the ABS is indeed not working under hard braking, I skidded pretty well until I let off the brake, got a pretty solid chirp from the tires.

      This problem is new to me after putting on these new calipers. I seriously doubt it could be the calipers themselves, but what are my likely culprits? I'm guessing air in the rear lines or perhaps I've gotten the sensors dirty in the rear. Or even broken them. I had to pound off the right rear caliper with a BFH pretty hard.

      Anyone got any ideas, or similar experience that they've conquered? I don't have the $$$ to delete the ABS unit at this point, and I'm starting a new job on the 22nd that I'll need the car for six days a week, so I won't have much time to mess around with brake stuff soon.

    2. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 02:13 PM #2
      ABS Pump, pump the brakes until you delete or upgrade to Tevas 20 systems from the newer cars.
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    3. Member petethepug's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 04:26 PM #3
      Start with the simple stuff

      Visual inspection in daylight. You just pushed a bunch of brake fluid back up to the master when you retracted the pistons back into the caliper. Check your fluid or lack of it.

      Are the speed sensor and pulse wheel on the rears bent, dirty or damaged, gap seem ok?. Clean em if necessary.

      Check the speed sensor wires for breakage or damage. Bleed em again if nothing apparent shows up. I'll put money on air in lines since it only occurring under hard braking.

    4. Member ein's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 05:56 PM #4
      Is there a bleed procedure on the ABS cars similar to the new cars where you have to put the ABS system into a "bleed mode" and cycle the pump?
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    5. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 06:38 PM #5
      Typically this would be the Accumulator, but you simple have air in the system if this just happened after changing the rear calipers.

      You have to compress the rear beam or (what I recommend) mark the adj on the rear prop valve, and then open the valve (as If the beam were fully compressed). This will open the prop valve and allow you to get all of the air out.
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    6. Member cata's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 07:27 PM #6
      ^^ what he said

      I highly doubt that you got air in the master cylinder, unless you allowed most of the fluid to drip its way out while doing the swap. I was a n00b when I first did this mod and that's what happened for me (I allowed a considerable amount of fluid to escape). A knowledgeable member on the CCC suggested that I bleed it as good as I could, then take the car on a safe gravel road and lock up my wheels as to engage the ABS and get the valves moving, thus causing any air bubbles to travel out of the master cylinder. After that I bled the system again and the pedal was considerably stiffer. I repeated this process 2 or 3 times and it did the trick.

      Some good info on this can be found right here.

    7. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 07:35 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      ABS Pump, pump the brakes until you delete or upgrade to Tevas 20 systems from the newer cars.
      LOL Tevas 20 is the only ABS I would consider on my Corrado.

      Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
      You just pushed a bunch of brake fluid back up to the master when you retracted the pistons back into the caliper.
      No he didn't

      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      Is there a bleed procedure on the ABS cars similar to the new cars where you have to put the ABS system into a "bleed mode" and cycle the pump?
      Nope, no special mode needed

      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      Typically this would be the Accumulator, but you simple have air in the system if this just happened after changing the rear calipers.

      You have to compress the rear beam or (what I recommend) mark the adj on the rear prop valve, and then open the valve (as If the beam were fully compressed). This will open the prop valve and allow you to get all of the air out.
      This. Also tap the caliper a bit as you bleed it.
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    8. Member petethepug's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 09:05 PM #8
      Tevas 20 is one of these (size 20?):




      Teves Mk 20 is one of these:




      As far as brake fluid is concerned it sounds like I didn't know Kyle was there removing the fluid for him. You don't' need a Bentley to tell you the fluid gets forced back into the master (where the reservoir is) and to check the fluid after you do a brake job, but if you do, it's on page 46.3

    9. Member cata's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 01:53 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
      Tevas 20 is one of these (size 20?):


    10. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 12:30 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
      As far as brake fluid is concerned it sounds like I didn't know Kyle was there removing the fluid for him. You don't' need a Bentley to tell you the fluid gets forced back into the master (where the reservoir is) and to check the fluid after you do a brake job, but if you do, it's on page 46.3
      He replaced the calipers. I really doubt he even messed with the piston before replacing the caliper which I am guessing was completely free of brake fluid inside.
      Quote Originally Posted by Deutschbag View Post
      So I just completed the mk4 aluminum rear caliper upgrade
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
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    11. Member petethepug's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 01:47 PM #11
      Good luck with some of the ideas.

      Check out Oichan's On-Board Diagnostic system, reading/erasing without VAG 1551 Scan Tool. He's listed all the ABS codes too. You may get lucky and get a code that leads you in the right direction if you don't have an issue caused by the rear caliper install.

    12. Member Deutschbag's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 03:13 PM #12
      Thanks dudes. First order of business will be to re-bleed the calipers. And yes, Burninator was correct, I replaced the calipers so I shouldn't have forced anything back up into the reservoir. BUT, I did moronically leave one of the brake lines open overnight and came out to a moderately sized puddle of brake fluid in the morning. But I bled the **** out of them to make sure no air got stuck in there. I suppose it's possible a bubble of air worked it's way towards the front of the car, but I also intentionally only jacked up the rear so that gravity wouldn't bleed the car for me overnight.

      Oh and also, whenever I do rear brakes I jack the car up by the rear beam so as to compress the prop valve, so that wouldn't have been the issue I don't think. I was definitely getting good flow from the ABS pump. However I did not bench bleed the calipers, so that tapping procedure sounds like a good idea.

      And finally, LOL at Tevas. I will swing by Big 5 later today and pick up my new ABS pump in the hiking section But seriously, thank you all for the advice. As always, much appreciated.

    13. Member petethepug's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 03:17 PM #13
      I'll tell Kyle I'm sorry.

    14. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      01-20-2012 03:34 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Deutschbag View Post
      Thanks dudes. First order of business will be to re-bleed the calipers. And yes, Burninator was correct, I replaced the calipers so I shouldn't have forced anything back up into the reservoir. BUT, I did moronically leave one of the brake lines open overnight and came out to a moderately sized puddle of brake fluid in the morning. But I bled the **** out of them to make sure no air got stuck in there. I suppose it's possible a bubble of air worked it's way towards the front of the car, but I also intentionally only jacked up the rear so that gravity wouldn't bleed the car for me overnight.

      Oh and also, whenever I do rear brakes I jack the car up by the rear beam so as to compress the prop valve, so that wouldn't have been the issue I don't think. I was definitely getting good flow from the ABS pump. However I did not bench bleed the calipers, so that tapping procedure sounds like a good idea.

      And finally, LOL at Tevas. I will swing by Big 5 later today and pick up my new ABS pump in the hiking section But seriously, thank you all for the advice. As always, much appreciated.
      No need to bench bleed the calipers. Really only needs to be done for master/slave cylinders.
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
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