So I had my MKIV R32 for sale for a few weeks, with a hydrolocked engine. Too many fake offers, and low offers. So I decided to keep the car, and build the engine. Here is my step by step build.
Not really a step by step. I did not choose to show all the bolts and nuts, and locations, and how to remove. SO you'll see the major parts removed step by step (KINDA). I would have liked to do a detailed version, but anyway. Here is the beginning.
And of course an engine stand and engine hoist.
Removed the oil pan to see the damage. Cylinder 2 rod bent.
Front end removed, intake manifold removed, coolant hoses and AC lines disconnected.
Pushed all the wires to the side
Engine is finally out
There she isssssssss
Removed all the parts off the block. Front and back
Removed the clutch, flywheel, valve cover, and timing chain covers.
Removed the head and set aside on the tool box
View of the engine block. You can see cylinder #2 has all the oil in it.
Engine block is stripped down
Engine Block is back from the machine shop...The piston rings, main cap bearings, and rod bearings have been replaced with all new parts. The pistons and rods were purchase from a vortex member with only 37,000 miles. They looked practically brand new when I got them. They were however cleaned and checked at the machine shop. The clearance between the cylinders and the pistons were within manufacturers specs.
These are the pistons and rods before the machine shop
These are the pistons and rods that I got. This was before they were sent out to the machine shop.
Cylinder Head has been rebuilt.
Time for assembly
Parts arrived. A list of parts will be given at the end.
New head gasket and head bolts
For anyone looking to do a build similar to this, on your own, make sure you have this oil non return valve after the machine shop is done working on it.
Installed new front crank seal.
Used a socket that was real close to the diameter of the seal, and slowly tapped it in.
Installed the front cover. I used the red gasket sealant.
Set the crank tool, and torque down the crank pulley. (I will post all torque specs at the end)
Set cylinder 1 to TDC, you can see the slit and the line match up near the crank. Also the drive gear (wear the flywheel bolts onto), there is only one ground tooth, it has to line up with the main cap mating line to the engine block (not shown).
Installed the oil pump drive, intermediate shaft, and intermediate shaft ring.
Place the head gasket and then carefully line up the head bolt holes with the engine block head bolt holes. It helps to have an extra hand. I finally got it after 4 tries, my shirt kept kitting the gasket, and the head is real heavy and you don't want to drop that. Any build requires patience.
This step is crucial. Part of the timing, involves the camshaft lobes for cylinder 1 exhaust and intake, to face each other. I had to take my head back to the machine shop because they had the cams backwards. If your confused on which camshaft is which, I called my local VW dealer, and gave them my VIN #, they verified for me. It is a 9 digit number, the last three differentiate by a digit. The exhaust cam shaft number ends in 102A, and the intake camshaft ends in 101C. It is located on the camshaft body, near the 32mm hex, where you would normally put an open end wrench to turn the cam.
The camshaft adjusters are also interchangeable. The intake adjuster is 24E, and the exhaust adjuster is 32A. Its an idiot proof system.
The cam tool used was from Baum tools, for only $20.00. Its made of plexiglass. Unfortunately it didn't last too long. So I used it as reference to mock up the tool into Solidworks software, and I'm getting one made. Why pay over $100.00 for the metal version?
SO I used the 12V cam tool temporarily.
Flipped the engine over to install the oil pump. I should have done this first, but whatever.
Cleaned the oil filter housing with parts washer purchased at autozone.
Assembled the oil cooler and oil filter housing, and bolted back to the block.
Flipped the engine back around. Time to install the oil control housing. It is important to check the red seal (see second picture below). Mine was still good.
Also order a new chain rail. (located on the oil control housing)
Removed the camshaft adjusters to install the oil control housing.
Once the oil control housing is installed, the camshaft adjuster bolts were torqued. To do this, you can see I had to counter hold the camshaft using a 32mm open end wrench.
Installed the accessory bracket, water pump and pulley, alternator, power steering pump and pulley, AC compressor.
Also installed the coolant water pipe with new o-rings.
MORE TO COME. TIMING IS NEXT
Here are some pictures to enjoy...
Cleaned the flywheel myself.
Before transmission cleaning
I cleaned it one more time, I will have pics soon
Audi B7 License Plate Frame
Let there be light. Installed two of them. You can see it in the back.
Who said you need a shop to do the work?
All my cars over time.
2000 Jetta GLX 5 Spd
2001 Jetta GLX automatic. Bought this at the same time as the one with the GTI front. Built both simultaneiously. One was at home, the other one was at my job. Bought this one with a timing chain rail broken.
2001 Jetta GLX. Two years ago
This one also went under some work. Bought it with a blown motor. There was a hole in the block.
2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. This is what I was driving while fixing both of the above Jettas.
SOLD ALL THE CARS ABOVE. Got married, then got this original owner 2003 GLI 24V.
Purchased with 88,000 miles. Sold at 91,000 miles for the R.
Now this one