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    Thread: MKIV R32 Engine Build

    1. Member
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      01-20-2012 10:27 PM #1
      So I had my MKIV R32 for sale for a few weeks, with a hydrolocked engine. Too many fake offers, and low offers. So I decided to keep the car, and build the engine. Here is my step by step build.

      Not really a step by step. I did not choose to show all the bolts and nuts, and locations, and how to remove. SO you'll see the major parts removed step by step (KINDA). I would have liked to do a detailed version, but anyway. Here is the beginning.











      Tools Required












      And of course an engine stand and engine hoist.

      Removed the oil pan to see the damage. Cylinder 2 rod bent.


      Front end removed, intake manifold removed, coolant hoses and AC lines disconnected.





      Water Damage


      Pushed all the wires to the side


      Engine is finally out



      There she isssssssss




      Removed all the parts off the block. Front and back




      Removed the clutch, flywheel, valve cover, and timing chain covers.


      Removed the head and set aside on the tool box


      View of the engine block. You can see cylinder #2 has all the oil in it.


      Engine block is stripped down








      Engine Block is back from the machine shop...The piston rings, main cap bearings, and rod bearings have been replaced with all new parts. The pistons and rods were purchase from a vortex member with only 37,000 miles. They looked practically brand new when I got them. They were however cleaned and checked at the machine shop. The clearance between the cylinders and the pistons were within manufacturers specs.

      These are the pistons and rods before the machine shop









      These are the pistons and rods that I got. This was before they were sent out to the machine shop.

      Cylinder Head has been rebuilt.




      Time for assembly

      Parts arrived. A list of parts will be given at the end.



      New head gasket and head bolts




      IMPORTANT MESSAGE

      For anyone looking to do a build similar to this, on your own, make sure you have this oil non return valve after the machine shop is done working on it.



      Installed new front crank seal.


      Used a socket that was real close to the diameter of the seal, and slowly tapped it in.




      Installed the front cover. I used the red gasket sealant.




      Set the crank tool, and torque down the crank pulley. (I will post all torque specs at the end)



      Set cylinder 1 to TDC, you can see the slit and the line match up near the crank. Also the drive gear (wear the flywheel bolts onto), there is only one ground tooth, it has to line up with the main cap mating line to the engine block (not shown).



      Installed the oil pump drive, intermediate shaft, and intermediate shaft ring.



      Place the head gasket and then carefully line up the head bolt holes with the engine block head bolt holes. It helps to have an extra hand. I finally got it after 4 tries, my shirt kept kitting the gasket, and the head is real heavy and you don't want to drop that. Any build requires patience.








      This step is crucial. Part of the timing, involves the camshaft lobes for cylinder 1 exhaust and intake, to face each other. I had to take my head back to the machine shop because they had the cams backwards. If your confused on which camshaft is which, I called my local VW dealer, and gave them my VIN #, they verified for me. It is a 9 digit number, the last three differentiate by a digit. The exhaust cam shaft number ends in 102A, and the intake camshaft ends in 101C. It is located on the camshaft body, near the 32mm hex, where you would normally put an open end wrench to turn the cam.
      The camshaft adjusters are also interchangeable. The intake adjuster is 24E, and the exhaust adjuster is 32A. Its an idiot proof system.

      The cam tool used was from Baum tools, for only $20.00. Its made of plexiglass. Unfortunately it didn't last too long. So I used it as reference to mock up the tool into Solidworks software, and I'm getting one made. Why pay over $100.00 for the metal version?



      SO I used the 12V cam tool temporarily.


      Flipped the engine over to install the oil pump. I should have done this first, but whatever.


      Cleaned the oil filter housing with parts washer purchased at autozone.


      Assembled the oil cooler and oil filter housing, and bolted back to the block.



      Flipped the engine back around. Time to install the oil control housing. It is important to check the red seal (see second picture below). Mine was still good.




      Also order a new chain rail. (located on the oil control housing)


      Removed the camshaft adjusters to install the oil control housing.


      Once the oil control housing is installed, the camshaft adjuster bolts were torqued. To do this, you can see I had to counter hold the camshaft using a 32mm open end wrench.



      Installed the accessory bracket, water pump and pulley, alternator, power steering pump and pulley, AC compressor.
      Also installed the coolant water pipe with new o-rings.







      MORE TO COME. TIMING IS NEXT





      Here are some pictures to enjoy...

      Cleaned the flywheel myself.



      Before transmission cleaning


      After cleaning



      I cleaned it one more time, I will have pics soon


      Audi B7 License Plate Frame


      Let there be light. Installed two of them. You can see it in the back.


      Who said you need a shop to do the work?




      All my cars over time.

      2000 Jetta GLX 5 Spd





      2001 Jetta GLX automatic. Bought this at the same time as the one with the GTI front. Built both simultaneiously. One was at home, the other one was at my job. Bought this one with a timing chain rail broken.






      2001 Jetta GLX. Two years ago


      This one also went under some work. Bought it with a blown motor. There was a hole in the block.




      2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. This is what I was driving while fixing both of the above Jettas.




      SOLD ALL THE CARS ABOVE. Got married, then got this original owner 2003 GLI 24V.
      Purchased with 88,000 miles. Sold at 91,000 miles for the R.




      Now this one

      Last edited by boraspecvr6; 09-26-2012 at 10:15 PM.

    2. Member
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      01-25-2012 06:20 AM #2
      Now is the chance to give the bay a real makeover and bring the baby back to the 21st century.
      Steve

    3. Member
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      01-25-2012 01:24 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by sTT eV6 View Post
      Now is the chance to give the bay a real makeover and bring the baby back to the 21st century.
      Steve
      yup, once the motor is out, going to power wash the bay. clean it up.

    4. Member 02vwgolf's Avatar
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      01-26-2012 09:25 AM #4
      Glad you didnt sell it or scrap it One more r32 that will stay in the hands of an owner that will fix her haha

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      01-28-2012 01:51 AM #5

    6. Member 02vwgolf's Avatar
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      01-30-2012 06:19 PM #6
      Good progress

    7. Member
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      01-31-2012 03:36 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by 02vwgolf View Post
      Good progress
      thanks.

    8. Member vr6fanatic's Avatar
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      02-11-2012 09:37 PM #8
      Keep us updated

    9. Junior Member albaneg's Avatar
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      02-13-2012 10:13 AM #9
      Awesome.... really glad that you did not scrap it.

    10. Member ebrown520's Avatar
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      02-18-2012 06:09 PM #10
      that looks awesome, good luck

    11. Member
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      02-18-2012 06:56 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by ebrown520 View Post
      that looks awesome, good luck

      thanks, you still have the jetta?

    12. Member 02awp18705's Avatar
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      02-19-2012 10:22 AM #12
      gl with the rebuild . What are your plans for the engine ?

    13. Member
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      02-19-2012 02:50 PM #13
      honestly, just keeping it stock, just to keep it simple.

    14. Member ebrown520's Avatar
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      02-19-2012 02:57 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by boraspecvr6 View Post
      thanks, you still have the jetta?
      yes i do, still running stong ill trade it back to you for the finished R

    15. Member
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      02-19-2012 10:31 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by ebrown520 View Post
      yes i do, still running stong ill trade it back to you for the finished R
      LOL, that would be loss on my end. I'm glad you still have the car. If you need anything, you know where to reach me.

    16. Member ebrown520's Avatar
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      02-20-2012 04:16 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by boraspecvr6 View Post
      LOL, that would be loss on my end. I'm glad you still have the car. If you need anything, you know where to reach me.
      haha it was worth a shot, (it does have a brand new trans) and ill probably be looking for things once i get some money together

    17. 02-22-2012 12:36 AM #17
      usually a hydro locked motor has a bent rod you should get the head and crank checked by a machine shop.
      Racing Improves the breed..
      "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith"- 2 Timothy 4:7
      CrossroadsLI
      MY ALL MOTOR BUILD THREAD

    18. Member haf1zur's Avatar
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      02-22-2012 09:46 AM #18
      feel for you

      i had a hydrolocked engine

      one of the rods snapped in half

      two others were bent

      had the crank and the case checked but they were fine

      not sure about US r32's but the UK MKIV's had a forged crank which was good
      Last edited by haf1zur; 02-22-2012 at 09:48 AM.

    19. Member
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      02-23-2012 11:54 PM #19
      Yea my next step is to take all the parts to a machine shop.

    20. n00b
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      02-27-2012 10:41 AM #20
      Great to see this rebuild. I look forward to seeing the progress.

    21. Member vr6fanatic's Avatar
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      03-20-2012 11:36 PM #21
      Now is also a good time to replace (if need be) Alternator, Starter. Etc...

    22. Member
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      03-21-2012 01:10 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by vr6fanatic View Post
      Now is also a good time to replace (if need be) Alternator, Starter. Etc...
      Yea thats true, but I dont need the extra expense. I will double check that before the nose goes on.

    23. Member 02vwgolf's Avatar
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      03-21-2012 10:44 PM #23
      Wow that rod had like a perfect wave to it haha atleast when its back together you will know you wont have to do anymore maintenance for a while

    24. Member DRedman45's Avatar
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      03-22-2012 11:16 AM #24
      I have never seen a rod bend like that without breaking...good luck with the rebuild...its a good opportunity for some lower compression and boost

    25. Member
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      03-30-2012 04:31 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by DRedman45 View Post
      I have never seen a rod bend like that without breaking...good luck with the rebuild...its a good opportunity for some lower compression and boost
      I hear you, but i dont have the budget for that right now, i have twin baby girls!!!

      I might , not sure, do a wire tuck though

    26. 04-17-2012 02:13 AM #26
      to boraspecvr6 i have an 04 vw r32 blown head gasket i need help man i want to do it ny self but i need info on torques specs on headbolt, timing and how to i would appreciate the hel man u can contact me at diazc1983@gmail.com hope to hear from u man thanks

    27. Member
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      04-17-2012 06:57 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by diazc1983 View Post
      to boraspecvr6 i have an 04 vw r32 blown head gasket i need help man i want to do it ny self but i need info on torques specs on headbolt, timing and how to i would appreciate the hel man u can contact me at diazc1983@gmail.com hope to hear from u man thanks
      I will send you an email later tonight.

    28. Semi-n00b cdbusby's Avatar
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      04-20-2012 03:04 PM #28
      Looks good so far! Gonna follow this thread out of curiosity, and in case I ever need to do it

    29. Member
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      05-23-2012 11:06 PM #29
      Finally done with college!!!! Now I can focus on the R32. Been apart for 4 months, the block and head should be complete in another two weeks. Will post more pics.

    30. Member tractorsosa's Avatar
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      07-14-2012 10:29 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by boraspecvr6 View Post
      So its been a while. I am still waiting on the engine to be finished. I apparently regret taking it to the engine shop I first took it to. I now have taken it to a friend of mine. He deals with STi's, Evos', R35 Skylines, and builds motors ground up. Since the last time I was on, I was busy finishing up with school, (graduated), and taking care of my twins. So I managed to take the transmission out, and the transfer case, (only half the transfer case). I have to jack the car up high enough to access the three bolts that are holding the driveshaft to the flex disk, which is then bolted onto the transfer case. Take a look...








      I need to get the rest of it off the driveshaft, then bolt everything back together, and onto the engine, once I get it back.

      In the mean time, I am going to powerwash the engine bay, and clean up the transmission.
      to be honest with u, its the first time i see somebody remove the half of the transfer case.. i always and i think most of the r32 owners remove it completely rotating the drive shaft by hand to get access to the rear bolts(3 ) 12 point socket 10mm if im not wrong but could be 12mm or 11mm not quiet sure about the mesasure but , as far it works for u its ok, just dont forget to top off ur tranny fluid or replace it since its already out.. gl

    31. Member
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      07-15-2012 12:47 AM #31
      Hey trac, I know what you mean, but the car was on the ground, I don't have a lift. When I had the engine held with the engine hoist, I did not dare go under the engine hanging freely, to unbolt the driveshaft from the transfer case. I don't want to be that guy that got crushed with a fallen engine, lol. But once I remove the other half, I will bolt everything back up, put in new seals, and top of the tranny. How much fluid does it take? Since the transfer case and transmission is empty at this time.

    32. Member One_Off_Volk's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 11:07 AM #32
      How did you remove the timing chain cover? I'm having so much trouble separating that

    33. Member
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      08-08-2012 02:09 PM #33
      the transmission has to come out. the valve cover has to come off. make sure all the bolts holding the cover come off. the rear chain tensioner bolt als has to come out. there are two hex bolts that are upside down, towards the middle section. hope this helps

    34. Member
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      08-08-2012 02:12 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by StayFatlaceMK3 View Post
      How did you remove the timing chain cover? I'm having so much trouble separating that

      also, the cam sensor seals might be stuck onto the sensor itself, slowly pry it, making sure not to damage the sensor. the seals are inserted into the upper chain cover.

    35. Member One_Off_Volk's Avatar
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      08-08-2012 02:28 PM #35
      ok thanks man, i got it off a few days ago but no i just have to take all the head bolts out and i need to order the 12mm triple square tool to remove i right? what did you use?

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