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Thread: rear door locks

  1. n00b
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    01-24-2012 07:54 PM #1
    I recently bought a 2010 JSW TDI. It has 75K so no more warranty.

    I didn't even notice at first, but the driver's rear door never locks. The switch doesn't turn orange and I can't feel any vibration near the latch when the locks are operated. It seems to be a disconnect between switch and latch. I understand this is all electric, no rods that could be loose. Is this even a possible DIY job?

    Thanks -- Erwin

  2. Geriatric Member rootrider's Avatar
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    01-24-2012 09:25 PM #2
    this is, I'm told, a rather common issue with the mk5 locking mechanisms. Sometimes they'll fail to lock (or unlock) just once in a while, and sometimes they'll just fail. You'll have to replace it.
    PNWfahren - Pacific Northwest Regional Car Enthusiast Forum Community
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  3. 01-24-2012 10:18 PM #3
    My first rear door lock went out just before 36k, the rear latch lock went out at 45k, and the second rear door lock at 60k. Mine's a 09.... guess they haven't fixed that yet.

  4. Geriatric Member rootrider's Avatar
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    01-24-2012 10:59 PM #4
    I've noticed that one of my rear doors hasn't locked a couple of times.. but nothing has failed yet. I passed 90k miles yesterday.
    PNWfahren - Pacific Northwest Regional Car Enthusiast Forum Community
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  5. Member jettasportwagen's Avatar
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    01-25-2012 10:49 AM #5
    i'll chime in....

    2009 JSW with almost 90K miles (TDI, not that it is specific to this matter) but my driver's side rear door lock with sometimes "stick" and not lock, but would have a few times of going back and forth (lock/unlock). Finally, my horn stopped beeping when locking the car and I found it to be the driver's side rear door lock finally stopped locking. Ended up being the module and was about $80 for the part I think? I had it done as i didn't have time to mess with it.


    Has been perfect since the fix. Hope this helps.





    Justin

  6. n00b
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    01-26-2012 05:39 PM #6
    Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I started to research, including how to take the door skin off.

    Today I looked at the wiring harness where it goes from door to body. Just pushing the rubber boot around a bit made all the locks suddenly work...temporarily at least. I see now the front lock switches also light up when they are locked, and that it would be influenced by the rear door lock not working well. So I know it's not the actuator or latch, just a break or short in the wiring.

    The scary part is now the lock might not unlock, and then what does one do??? You can't get to the actuator or harness without taking off the skin, and you can't get the skin off without opening the door. Catch 22. Better get the wire harness fixed pronto, I guess. Anyone know which wires would be the ones activating the lock? Does one buy a new harness, or can I splice in new wires?

    Thanks -- Erwin

  7. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
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    01-26-2012 06:39 PM #7
    its the wiring.. common issue

  8. Geriatric Member rootrider's Avatar
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    01-26-2012 08:22 PM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by artbasement View Post
    The scary part is now the lock might not unlock, and then what does one do??? You can't get to the actuator or harness without taking off the skin, and you can't get the skin off without opening the door. Catch 22. Better get the wire harness fixed pronto, I guess. Anyone know which wires would be the ones activating the lock? Does one buy a new harness, or can I splice in new wires?
    you should always be able to get into the driver's door with the key, and the doors unlock when you open them from the inside
    PNWfahren - Pacific Northwest Regional Car Enthusiast Forum Community
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    01-27-2012 03:16 PM #9
    Common issue, also over here in Belgium (Europe)

  10. Member
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    01-27-2012 03:30 PM #10
    both of my rear door locks failed in the same manner, except with the door locked. Using the handle inside will open the door so its not a problem.

    If you have VCDS, you will see codes for the failing locks. It may have been a wiring issue, but the few that i've seen recently have all bene the locking mechanism failing. Mine both failed around 18k and were both replaced at the same time. No furthe rissues since then *knock on wood*

  11. Member Code3VW's Avatar
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    01-27-2012 03:37 PM #11
    I hope rear door locks are covered under my extended warranty...

    <- 36,5XX miles. Date of Purchase: August 31, 2010.
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  12. n00b
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    01-27-2012 11:00 PM #12
    I had a big scare this morning as the lock had stopped responding again, but was in the locked position. Thankfully Tweak3D and Rootrider's suggestion to unlock the lock by pulling on the inside door handle works. I guess that action does not go through same the door wiring, but it must still be a request sent to the computer that unlocks the lock.

    My last car, a 2000 Saab had already so much information going through the computer, that it scared me, but this car puts my old Saab to shame.

    I'll replace the harness. Is this a dealer only item? anyone know if it is 2010 specific?

    thanks -- Erwin

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    01-27-2012 11:47 PM #13
    Quote Originally Posted by artbasement View Post
    I had a big scare this morning as the lock had stopped responding again, but was in the locked position. Thankfully Tweak3D and Rootrider's suggestion to unlock the lock by pulling on the inside door handle works. I guess that action does not go through same the door wiring, but it must still be a request sent to the computer that unlocks the lock.

    My last car, a 2000 Saab had already so much information going through the computer, that it scared me, but this car puts my old Saab to shame.

    I'll replace the harness. Is this a dealer only item? anyone know if it is 2010 specific?

    thanks -- Erwin
    before you replace the harness, check your logs. I thought mine was the harness too as when I played with it, it started working again. It wasn't really the fault. Here are the codes I was getting for reference:

    Address 42: Door Elect, Driver (J386) Labels: 3C0-959-70X-GEN4.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 959 701 B HW: 3C0 959 793
    Component: TUER-SG FT 002 0307
    Revision: 13101005 Serial number: 0000596162
    Coding: 0004F5
    Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316
    ASAM Dataset: EV_DCU42BroseDriveSide A03004
    ROD: EV_DCU42BroseDriveSide_VW36.rod
    VCID: 27732961E8F7
    Slave Driver:
    Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 959 703 AH HW: 1K0 959 795 TSW
    Component: J388__TSG-HL 006 1401
    Serial number: 00000004738489
    Coding: 0004D0

    2 Faults Found:

    132610 - Motors for Rear Central Locking
    B122C 01 [008] - Signal Failure
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 19
    Reset counter: 75
    Mileage: 34562 km
    Date: 2016.14.12
    Time: 16:49:52

    132866 - Switch for Rear Central Locking
    B122E 29 [008] - Signal Failure
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 25
    Reset counter: 75
    Mileage: 34562 km
    Date: 2016.14.12
    Time: 16:49:52

    Check your codes before replacing stuff. Will save you money. Door locks are $142 each. Part # is 3B4839016AP.
    Last edited by Tweak3D; 01-27-2012 at 11:51 PM.

  14. Geriatric Member rootrider's Avatar
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    01-28-2012 12:05 AM #14
    Quote Originally Posted by artbasement View Post
    I had a big scare this morning as the lock had stopped responding again, but was in the locked position. Thankfully Tweak3D and Rootrider's suggestion to unlock the lock by pulling on the inside door handle works. I guess that action does not go through same the door wiring, but it must still be a request sent to the computer that unlocks the lock.
    it's mechanical.. it'd be silly to lock people into a car if the battery is dead or if wiring is otherwise not working
    PNWfahren - Pacific Northwest Regional Car Enthusiast Forum Community
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  15. n00b
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    01-29-2012 04:55 PM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by rootrider View Post
    it's mechanical.. it'd be silly to lock people into a car if the battery is dead or if wiring is otherwise not working
    That's what I thought too. Glad to find out VW engineers weren't that silly.

  16. n00b
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    01-29-2012 04:57 PM #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Tweak3D View Post
    before you replace the harness, check your logs. I thought mine was the harness too as when I played with it, it started working again. It wasn't really the fault.

    Check your codes before replacing stuff. Will save you money. Door locks are $142 each. Part # is 3B4839016AP.
    Good idea. Do only dealers have the equipment to check these logs? What's the going rate to get the codes checked?

    Thanks -- erwin

  17. Member Code3VW's Avatar
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    01-29-2012 05:11 PM #17
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