??The video says mk5 but will this work for mk6
#1
So I finally got around to installing my Autotech Engine Mount Insert today. Let me just it was a world of difference. My 2.5 feels sportier, pulls better, and is certainly a lot funner to drive.
The wheel hop that was once there is now gone and the car pulls quicker off the throttle. Essentially, there is less 'give' in the engine when I push my car to go. Vibration is certainly greater in the cabin, but overall I have tuned it out all but entirely so far.
For $20 -- you cannot go wrong!
I highly recommend the motor mount insert -- 110%.
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#3
#4
i've had mine since last summer and still havent installed it
#5
Last edited by SimpleStaple; 01-26-2012 at 07:58 PM.
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#9
Not sure.
•|Sent via Tapatalk Android. Likely pooping or stuck in traffic.|•
#10
interesting... looks like ill be adding this to my list of things to do
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#14
will this get rid of my 2.slows wheel hop??!! wait nvm...still love it!
seriously though, do you think it could make the motor feel a bit less... bouncy?
#15
hmmm, after looking at this and the ECS video for the Mk5, I miiiiight be doing the old school hockey puck tr4ick. Gotta get under my car and take a look. Worked in the Mk3s, and just might work for this mount, with a little planning out. But thanks for the video and input about the changes it brought out.
"You should never underestimate the predictability of stupidity!"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ub-Sport-coils
#16
Not sure if the hockey puck will work with the MKVI. Regardless, the risks associated with the hockey puck insert for the sake of money saved far outweigh the risk of doing so for me, especially considering this car isn't even close to a decade old.
I would, honestly, stick with the reliability and 'officialness' of the Autotech insert.
#17
Bump to bump this up for people to see.
#18
im in for this
group buy ?
2011 Jetta 2.5 Highline PGM
- Autotech Engine Mount Insert - Full Interior LED Conversion + DRL
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#20
"You should never underestimate the predictability of stupidity!"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ub-Sport-coils
#21
Any benefit with my tiptronic transmission? I know this helps with smoothing out shifting in MT..
2011 CW Jetta SE w/ Conv. & Sunroof. OEM lip spoiler. ECS Fog Light Kit/Euro switch. ST Coilovers. VMR v701 Gunmetal, 225/40/18.
#23
At idle, there is a vibration in the steering wheel, but only noticeable to the driver. However, when in reverse the car vibrates a very noticeable amount for everyone in the cabin.
After the third day of driving with the insert, I am not bothered whatsoever seeing as though the gains from this mount insert exponentially outweigh the vibrations.
The car pulls entirely differently -- even on my automatic transmission.
•|Sent via Tapatalk Android. Likely pooping or stuck in traffic.|•
#24
2011 CW Jetta SE w/ Conv. & Sunroof. OEM lip spoiler. ECS Fog Light Kit/Euro switch. ST Coilovers. VMR v701 Gunmetal, 225/40/18.
#25
Hey so i got this put it in and its a great modification. My only question is when i start up the car there is a little clunk for literally half a second. Is it just loose? or does it just do that.
#26
The part you installed stiffens the engine by bracing it with that mount.
The mount has no rubber vibration dampeners on it, so all the vibration is transfered back into the cabin.
This is common with any aftermarket mount, insert or stiffer bushing.
2012 Tornado RedGLI 6speed BASE
Miro 111
ST's.
#27
Let me just give my expert opinion here. $20 is going to equate to a world of headaches. Not to mention the actual headaches. You'll rattle that german plastic around over time and essentially accelerate the wear on interior parts. Sure, spend that $20 and get the immediate result you want. Or, save your money, do it right, and get handling along with launch traction.
The reason your wheels are hopping in the first place is a lack of rigidity in the suspension geometry itself. Yes, the subframe and engine mounts are effectively parts of your suspension that also need tuning. Your 2.5 is designed by a german to be a certain way. You'll have to change a lot more than a gap in some rubber to get the results you desire without rattling your teeth loose. The results mind you that were never originally engineered into the vehicle.
Simple steps to get an overall better ride. And eliminate your wheel hop issue.
1. Shocks.
You don't have to buy a whole cup kit or coil overs to get results. The factory has very soft valving. Designed for comfort. Spend $230 or so on some Koni Street's paired up with your factory springs and you'll experience a world of difference on a scale much bigger than just wheel hop.
2. Sway Bar.
When your wheel starts to hop it has pretty much told your suspension to go f*** itself. A stiffer sway bar will more effectively tie the left and right suspension geometry together. This will help a lot as well by limiting the up and down motion of a single wheel while on flat pavement.
3. Bushings.
Not poly! When and wherever applicable use HD bushings. Just like the mk4 guys are using R32 bushings. Poly will transfer vibration and squeak like motel room bed frame.
Not necessarily cheap, but effective. A big thing people overlook is custom work. If you need a sway bar you don't need to spend a bunch of money on a name. All it is is a piece of chrome moly tube that is pressed at the ends with some holes drilled for adjustment. If anyone is interested I can draw up some simple plans for different styles of adjustable sway bars. Get in touch with a fabrication shop that does tubing and such, just bring em your stock sway bar and pay them for their labor and materials. Won't be much.
Honestly I think us mkVI people should start organizing group buys on some suspension components. Maybe if something got started I could call my friend who is the GM at Ground Control. Someone will have to donate their shocks for his R&D. As my TDI is in the collision shop I'm not putting the girl through any more pain. They can do sway bars as well.
Last edited by JohnScholl; 04-05-2012 at 08:13 PM.
#28
Also Autotech isn't going to pay for all the diag that the dealer spends looking for where vibration noises are coming from. Cuz your wife will bitch about it. Girlfriend shouldn't be driving your car. Wtf is wrong with you.
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#31
Newsflash, different shocks, a sway bar, and new bushings were also not engineered into the vehicle. Also if its custom work, that isn't designed in either.
This is a $20 upgrade that only needs one tool and is easily reversed. You are suggesting people drop $1000+ to fix something that a cheap part can help with.
#32
My experience in the high performance industry does. Also, when I said it wasnt engineered I followed it with the list of things that are engineered differently that provide the results. Products engineered for performance not comfort. If you need proof of experience I can give you my number and we'll talk performance on a much more in depth level than $20 upgrades that harm your vehicle. I'm trying to stop this nonsense about companies selling "staged" upgrades and $20 wonder fixes. Talk to anyone from the industry and they will share my opinion. Autotech is trying to make money, you should be trying to put parts on your vehicle that don't come with bad side effects. I'm giving my opinion remember. It's not infallible.
#35
Recommendation: Poly Insert
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...unt/ES2193007/
Same Installation Process: Installed on my GLI in 15 minutes while drinking a brew.
I have not installed on 2.5/2.0 BUT its poly and if it doesn't fit 100% then you can "modify" it
Won't get the Autotech vibrations because it will absorb them