BT Audi TT

[01ttgt28]

I love the a arms I what them

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

I have the test file ready. Lmk whenever you are available.

[seth_3515]

well well well, been chasing codes and come to find out the ecu is fried
now to find a new ecu...

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

[DougLoBue]

Could you post more details on what you did to relocate the power steering resivour? I'd love to get that down there on my TT & don't mind drilling the 3" hole!

[tedgram]

Waiting for updates on you build!

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

PM me your address so I can send you the new ECU back.

Sorry I took long. I'm just so busy.

[seth_3515]

Pm'd

[seth_3515]

ECU came in. Plugged it in saturday, the car wouldnt even crank over.. Issue? forgot to ground the block to the chassis. I ohmd it to the chassis and it sat at 48 administered 2 new ground cables and it ohmd out at 0.09 Motor now cranks over but wouldnt start. I was the only one there so I couldnt check the voltage at the fuel pump (intank and inline) but I think I have some wiring issues at the 3 relay board. Inline would work intermittently (could hear it) gauges were working fine then they went out.. So I will be chasing down some wires tomorrow and hopefully starting her up. Its been an uphill battle, but hearing it crank over gave me new hope and a light at the end of the tunnel feeling. Just gotta get the little bugs worked out and hopefully Ill hear her live for the first time in years..

- I did throw 2 engine codes.. I dont remember the numbers (on my PC at the garage, and im on my Mac at home) but there was a missing signal with the instrument cluster and high signal at the CTS. the CTS is brand new from ECS so im a little peeved at this, but it could be the terminal or I could have had a bad sensor after the long down time. Im gonna see if I still have the old black top to throw in and check it, otherwise Ill check the terminal to see if is a wire issue.

- the other code was a lateral acceleration sensor- the car is up on jack stands and the front sits quite a bit higher than the rear. Could this be an issue>?

[VOLKSGLI]

Nice Work

[seth_3515]

VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64)
Data version: 20120401

Monday,11,June,2012,13:10:27:12722

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

Mileage: 143640km/89253miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 33278
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

4 Faults Found:
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0100 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 D
Component: ESP 20 CAN V006
Coding: 23049
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 3D7F3AA0376A8F1

2 Faults Found:
00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47)
35-00 - -
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 2851FBF4C8E83A9

1 Fault Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
Part No: 8N8 909 601
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1008
Coding: 10102
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: F7F36888D5D6E51

5 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00 - -
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-10 - - - Intermittent
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145)
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8N1 920 930 E
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D10
Coding: 06244
Shop #: WSC 25406
VCID: 336B1C98012E491

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04
Coding: 15884
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 3F8340A83D669D1

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8N8 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: FCF977A4ECF0C69

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


- I have all the deletes.. I dont understand why the N249 and N75 are showing up? Do i still need to put resistors on them?
-looking up the cam timing adjustment now..

[seth_3515]

was jsut looking around the cam tensioner and found the half moon blew out.. Is it wise to run without it? Should i replace it or can I find just the half moon?

[EURidahO]

was jsut looking around the cam tensioner and found the half moon blew out.. Is it wise to run without it? Should i replace it or can I find just the half moon?

I just had mine out, and the half moon only filled the inside half of that slot. If you look down you should be able to see the seal sitting a little further in. That or I did mine completely wrong

[seth_3515]

I just had mine out, and the half moon only filled the inside half of that slot. If you look down you should be able to see the seal sitting a little further in. That or I did mine completely wrong

That makes me feel better, but I am still stumped over the camshaft adjustment. Im hoping some other can chime in on testing the N205.

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

4 Faults Found:
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
            P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
            P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
            P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0100 0000

Did you erase codes before scanning?

[seth_3515]

Before starting it I scanned. It threw the instrument cluster code ad CTS high intermittent signal. Cleared codes, worked on wiring to the intank and inline fuel pump and turned it over mostly concentrating on fuel system. Checked and this is what I got. I'll clear again and give it another shot and see what it throws if anything. I will say the CTS code didnt come back up yet. It hadn't thrown the boost codes ever or the cam shaft adjustment so it may be a fluke? Definitely not giving up just looking for any suggestions on anything to test for with these codes.

-Gonzo, should I place resistors on the harness to stop the codes?

[Rod Ratio]

All of those need to be resistored

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

Yes.

I can probably disable the VVT solenoid if you wish, though.

[seth_3515]

Yes.

I can probably disable the VVT solenoid if you wish, though.

Ok, I'll resistor them. I have the resistors from nstevic(sp?) I'll throw them on there. What's the pros and cons of disabling the VVT?

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

Ok, I'll resistor them. I have the resistors from nstevic(sp?) I'll throw them on there. What's the pros and cons of disabling the VVT?

Pros:
You don't have to resistor it?
Cons:
You can't use VVT to make power/quicker spool?

[seth_3515]

I won't be using the VVT to make anything? So yeah let's delete it and have one less problem to deal with

[Rod Ratio]

I wouldn't delete vvt. The newer tunes are using vvt to make power. Im sure Gonzo agrees

[seth_3515]

Well how much power are we talking? My thoughts are to get it running reliably for my two day a week 150 mile commute to university for my last semester. My plan this summer was to get everything up and running (don't even have a stereo in yet) reroute a/c lines, figure my ccm issues, and do a wire tuck on the bay. My main goal right now is to have a running car. If I can delete the VVT now and get a new solenoid next spring when I upgrade the springs, retainers and intake valves I'd prefer to do it then. But if that's an issue as far as tuning I'll just do it now. Not trying to be rude but that's why I'm asking now for some opinions. I don't want to cut corners or cause headaches layer down the road. Suggestions are welcomed

[Rod Ratio]

Research first. Delete second. The VVT is one thing you don't want to get rid of.

(1) it rarely ever breaks or malfunctions.

(2) eliminating it only gets rid of two barely noticeable wires. Hardly the bain of a bay shaver.

(3) significant gains can be had in spool, and HP/ torque.

Ask the guys at IE, Eurodyne, Unitronic, or Gonzo. Or better yet; read through some of the technical, and product release threads in this forum. I refuse to spoon feed you, but the information you desire is located in the first few pages of this forum.

[seth_3515]

I have been researching it. Deleting t want even on my mind until gonzo brought it up. I posted asking about testing it and if any others experienced the code before. Gonzo brought it up about deleting it, therefore I assumed it wasn't necessary or have a hue significance in power. I have heard of it use for power but haven't sifted through the details. That's why I asked about it when he suggested it. I wouldn't e doing the tuning anyways.. If gonzo wasn't going to utilize it, it wouldn't matter either way if it was there or not. Hence asking him pros and cons of deleting it..

[Rod Ratio]

No pros, all cons to deleting it. It used to be common practice to delete the VVT until recent discoveries have shown significant increases in power UNDER the curve, spool, etc.

Just one man's opinion on a forum; as well as guys on the cutting edge of tuning this platform.

2¢

[Big_Tom]

keep your VVT buddy

[seth_3515]

No pros, all cons to deleting it. It used to be common practice to delete the VVT until recent discoveries have shown significant increases in power UNDER the curve, spool, etc.

Just one man's opinion on a forum; as well as guys on the cutting edge of tuning this platform.

2¢

And I appreciate the input Just need to know now if gonzo utilizes it or not.

[seth_3515]

keep your VVT buddy

Long run yes, but I'm on the fence of short term. Depends on if gonzo utilizes it or not and how easily reversible the delete is. Just waiting for his input on this. I know people either like gonzo or despise him, but I wanted to give him a chance and see what he could do. Letting him have the lead on this and do what he is comfortable with

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

Its up to you really. We can always just add it on later.
Its something that requires tweaking on the dyno, though.

BTW I don't tune for spool, I tune for power

[seth_3515]

Ok, if we can easily add it on later I will probably delete it for now. I'm going to go over there today and clear the codes and turn it over to see if it comes back up first. I'd like to build the head and get axles before I tweak and tune on a dyno for every last bit of power

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

Hopefully tuning for these injectors will not require too much tweaking.
As long as the fueling is good, I think that you will find that this file will pull pretty hard

[Rod Ratio]

BTW I don't tune for spool, I tune for power

Quoted for irony

[seth_3515]

Hopefully tuning for these injectors will not require too much tweaking.
As long as the fueling is good, I think that you will find that this file will pull pretty hard

That's another concern I have at this point. I'm looking at upgrading to the IE or 034 surge tank and 044 setup. I'm starting to doubt the flow of the Walbro. We will see though

[Gonzo@GonzoTuning]

Quoted for irony

Tuning for spool alone may net you less power before the spool.
If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck. I tune for power which means that when the turbo spools, the torque kicks in hard and pushes you back in the seat.

That's another concern I have at this point. I'm looking at upgrading to the IE or 034 surge tank and 044 setup. I'm starting to doubt the flow of the Walbro. We will see though

Walbro should be OK until we get past 400hp+. When we get there, then you can start worrying about it.

Edit: BTW I had VVT test files before any of the big tuners had it...
There is noticeable gains even with the stock turbo.