Shipped new ECU. Insured it for $800. If this one gets lost again, let me know so we can both cash in on it
My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
I paid for one day delivery and they promised 4th of July delivery on the website and now it says it will be delivered on the 5th
Ok, the package is missing. It left okc sort facility at 8am and the Enid office has no idea where it's at. We have to wait 7 days to file a claim. Gonzo, you can go ahead and file for a refund on the shipping cost. I want to know what is next and soon. I'm not trying to be a dik but I have been waiting to get this Ecu situation taken care of for a month and I'm bout ready to get a refund and give Arnold a call this is getting ridiculous
Last edited by seth_3515; 07-05-2012 at 04:36 PM.
Well, I have decided to make the best of this set back. I purchased an 034 ignition coil harness. This will replace the the harness with new wires. I wanted to upgrade these before going with the 2.0t coils and adapters which I'll be picking up in a few weeks. I also built a box/cover for the rear seat delete to cover the battery, relays, and ampilifier. Just got to pick out some
I am asking everyone on vortex to partake in a candle light vigil to ask the VAG gods for good luck to come. It will be for 3 minutes tomorrow at 8pm central standard time. Just one lit candle and 3 minutes of good vibes while I kill an innocent child in hopes of appeasement to the gods.. This damn car will run I say!
The Ecu showed up at my door yesterday! I guess it got lost on the truck an they found it.. Really annoying but o well. I went to try to start it and it cranked over for a bit then the battery started to die I threw on a new cts and put the battery on te charger overnight in hopes that's all it was. It started up last time so hopefully it just needs a good charge. Besides that, all my gauges and apexi were on and working which was a relief.. Unfortunately, I work 4am-noon today but that'll give me the afternoon to work on my car. I was even given a pass from the fiancé for the wedding cake taste testing! Although, i would like to start it up, change the oil, and take it for a spin to the tasting (can't miss out on free cake ) I'll be back on here with some good news or questions on diagnosing any issues.. We shall see.
No luck.. I replaced the cts, double checked plug gaps, tightened up intake parts incase of a leak and still can't get it to fire. I'm thinking cps sensor since it is the original but wanted some other opinions. It's only throwing the boost regulator, n75, and missing signal from instrument cluster..
Just ohmd the cps - 948 between 2 and 3, no continuity between 1 and 2, no continuity between 1 and 3 - so its to Bentley specs.. I also checked continuity between my splice for the rpm signal for the ebc and get continuity so that is ok.
-also took loosened the fitting to the fuel rail while pump was on to make sure it was getting fuel and it sprayed. Plug gaps are .026 or so across them all.
-I have the hitachi e revision coils. What's the best way to test for spak on these? They were new but have sat for a few years.. I'm trying to eliminate every variable
Last edited by seth_3515; 07-07-2012 at 02:43 PM.
Does it register any RPM? Like via VCDS or on the cluster?
While cranking, the tach moved. I'm wondering about the spark though from the coil packs.. It's not throwing a code though so I'm a little apprehensive. What's the best way to test for spark on these injectors? I looked through the Bentley to see if I could ohm them out like te crank position sensor but i didn't see it.
If the tach moved, you are good. Take one coil off and put a screwdriver inside it and put it close against a ground and crank it. If you get a spark, you are good to go.
I would personally try some starting fluid first, though. When we rebuild motors here at the shop, sometimes the first start is really tough to get it going.
Ok i tried the ether. It would fire but not remain stable ok it's own, it stumbled then would go back to not firing. I took a ground tester ( with a light) and checked each injector connector. It stayed lit while cranking with every injector harness. Any new ideas? I didn't check the spark but figured it was when it fired with the ether
You might have to keep spraying it for a little bit for the first start. Once it warms up, it should run better.
Ok, I'm calling it a day. Battery is dead but on the charger now. If you are reading this and have any idea that you think might help, please post them. I'm going to try to come up with a list for tomorrow to start checking things off. It would idle for a few seconds with ether then stumble and die. Hope to get some other perspectives because I feel like I'm missing something right under my nose
Sounds like your not getting enough fuel. What's fuel pressure? Do you have fuel lines reversed?
Last edited by tedgram; 07-08-2012 at 08:22 AM.
2001 225 Quattro Coupe, Aviator, Giac-X Chip, TurboX/S H25 Bov, Mofo, adjustable Fpr, Water injection, Boost Machine, Neuspeed p-flow, Neuspeed short shift, dogbone , Cat 51 cam, FK spacer 25MM R, 42 Draft spacer 8MM F, Defcon 2 bushings, Sport Edition KM11 wheels 18x8, tires 225/45-18, Eibach Springs, Neuspeed 19mm rear swaybar, 42 Draft Down pipe, Blue Flame exhaust, 6 point roll bar. LTA record holder G/BGSS mile 142.317, 1.5 mile 150.624.
I'm a little confused as to why you needed to remove the fuel line to check for fuel when you have a pressure regulator mounted on the rail? What is the fuel pressure? Just because you have rail pressure doesn't mean your injectors are firing. Easiest way to check that is with a noid light or a voltmeter.
Also are you running stock cams? On aftermarket cams you can reverse the reference wheel on the intake cam. I'm talking about the wheel that bolts onto the intake cam that the cam position sensor reads. If this is reversed you will get...fuel and spark but the car will not run. It also will not throw any codes. To check this you just remove the two 6mmx1.25 bolts that hold the cam position sensor on.
Tested the coil packs with a groud light and it would ever light. I'm thinking the coil packs are bad. The ether would fire just from compression alone..
-dad tested it the "old fashioned way" stuck a metal rod in there and grabbed it.. didnt shock him so no fire! I was glad to finally figure out the problem. The coil packs were bought a few years ago so its whatever. I already ordered new 2.0t coils and adapters from IE, my coil harness replacement from 034 should ship this week as well. thanks for the help and suggestions to those on here and those who pmd me, I really appreciate it.
Last edited by seth_3515; 07-08-2012 at 02:46 PM.