ok so working on the gauges
these are going in the radio slot using the "lock" housing from the radio
built the front using smoked plexi glass
fugged the last hole, it was off 2-3mm from center
best i could do with a hole saw
last pic you can see i am wiring it
each gauge is in parallel so they each receive the same voltage
the blue wire is ground for the lights which get wired next
after i figure if the wire im going to splice in is + or -
i dont have an oil pressure sender yet, but it gets wired and connected
a dead wire will be located into the engine bay until then
nearly certain the CELS gauge is correct for the wiring
it kicks on when powered but havent tested its temp reading yet
the BAR gauge is definately wired correct to the G connection
so unsure if it is _|_ or G for the CELS gauge that goes to the sender I put on the coolant outlet
will be able to test that next week and either way its not a major re-wiring to switch
distributor work
the distrubutor in the picture came with the car in the trunk
i am positive it was the factory 78 because it does not have holes for frequency valve
the one running on the car has the frequency valve plugged and banjo bolt swapped over
cleaned the distributor, replaced the o-rings on the system pressure valve
cleaned 3 of the 4 injector filters, one would not come out at all so just sprayed it heavily..
removed the WUR and cleaned the filters and rust
inside looked good, o-ring was good, that was clean
pulled the CSV and cleaned that, replaced the gasket and both bolts
all new crush washers
also new rubber fuel box gasket
runs smoother with the plunger and float all cleaned and sparkling
here is my fuel pump relay switch
when "off" the switch is not contacting the battery pin
switched on it goes from pin 30 battery -> fuse -> switch to pin 87
fuse had to be located outside of the housing for replacement purposes
pins 85/86 are not connected to anything, they just hold the relay in the socket
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