I Sepang Blue. I love my Rising Blue, but I'm not going to lie. I was a little jealous.
1. The stock mirror just pops right off, leaving a mounting base.
2. There's a little adapter piece that slides over the mounting base. Slide on the new mirror and tighten the little retaining bolt.
3. Plug the harness into the back of the mirror and run the wires up a few inches to the headliner and clip in the wiring cover that hides them.
4. Tuck the wires into the headliner over to the driver side A-pillar.
5. Loosen the A-pillar trim. There's a screw behind the little "Airbag" trim piece. Pop off the little "Airbag" piece, unscrew the screw, and pull the trim piece away from the A-pillar (don't pull it all the way out.
6. Zip tie the wires from the new mirror to the bundle of existing wires above the airbag in the A-pillar. Take care to route the new wires so that they do not interfere with airbag operation.
7. Remove the narrow vertical trim piece directly below the A-pillar and to the left of the dashboard. It pops right off. Remove the half-circle trim piece on the left side of the dashboard covering the fuse box. It also just pops right off.
8. Route the mirror wires down through the bottom of the A-pillar trim to the fuse box area.
9. There are several bolts beside the fuse box that can be loosened enough to slide the ring terminal at the end of the ground wire beneath and retighten for the ground connection.
10. The mirror wire with the white stripe needs to be connected to ACC power (before you do this unplug the harness from the back of the new mirror). Use an add-a-circuit to connect this wire to fuse 5 (see here for a fuse box diagram).
11. I used another add-a-circuit to connect the remaining wire to CONSTANT power at fuse 16.
12. Before you replace all of the trim pieces, turn the car on and make sure it works.
13. Follow the instructions in the included manual to program the homelink buttons.
The whole thing is no more difficult than a hard-wire radar detector install (which I did at the same time, killing two birds with one stone). I'm no DIY genius, and it took me a total of 1 hour (much of which was spent programming the homelink). If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in under half an hour. I'll post some pics I took of the install when I get more time later (as well as pics from the radar detector hardwire).
This is the worst thread
I have had a TTRS on order from november, and now I'm starting to get cold feet. The car is awesome, but it as you know is very expensive, and I hopefully will have a kid at some point soon in the future. This thread is pure evil because I want a RB Golf R, and the TTRS I have on order is spec'd exactly as the one in the photo.
I know first world problems right? Well it's still a tough decision. On one hand the Golf R's utility can't be argued, it's fast, the car looks good, and it can carry PEOPLE and STUFF!!! Not to mention that it's easier for me to beat on with autox and stuff like that. (Cheaper tires/wheels) With the RS I think it would be tougher to *abuse* the car on a regular basis in the name of fun. The RS is a pure modern classic, and is everything I've wanted in a car for a long time, but it's also an attention grabber, and I'd be worried parking it in less than stellar neighborhoods etc... The Golf R seems like the *right* choice, and the RS seems like the *dream* choice. Argh... I know stop whining blah blah.
I am interested to see your write-up for your Nav/bluetooth/backup cam install. I hope all is going well with that!
2012 Golf R - Black WETDUB
HPA Softwares, APR HPFP, Scorpion TBE, Forge Twintake, HPA Mount, APR Flap Delete, Dieselgeek SS, RNS-510, 9w7 Bluetooth, JL 10w6 W/ Stealthbox, JL XD600/1, JL Cleansweep, P3cars.com Boost Gauge, Backup Cam, Color Matched Side Markers w/ bulb delete, LED Everything.
J/K, Siliconrane is pretty much my hero right now, helping me with the wiring. Dude knows his stuff.
Since my last update, I've installed the RNS-510 navi, the 9W7 bluetooth module, the reverse camera, auto-dimming home link mirror with compass, the euro cup holder, and hardwired my radar detector. I will post reviews and pics of each over the next couple of days, but I'll start with the radar detector since I promised a couple of people that I'd make a DIY.
I'm really happy with the interior of the R now that I've finished with all of these mods.
The radar detector is a really easy install. Even if you've never done this before and have no idea what you're doing, it will take less than an hour.
You'll need the following for this install:
- A radar detector (I have an Escort Passport 9500ix, which I love because it is GPS-enabled, which allows it to learn false alerts)
- A hardwire kit (telephone connector plugs into your RD on one end; power and ground connections on the other)
- A mini-fuse add-a-circuit
- A 5-amp mini fuse
- Trim removal tool (butter knife or something similar will also work - just not anything that is sharp enough to cause scratches)
- Screwdriver or ratchet with a T25 torx head
1. Find the location where you'll want to mount your radar detector. I chose just to the left of and above the rear view mirror. The suction cups are just to the left of the dot matrix and the radar detector sits a couple finger widths beneath the headliner. Position it so that it sits level.
2. Plug the telephone connector in and route the cable up to the headliner. There is a slight gap between the headliner and windshield, enough to push the cable up above the headliner. Tuck the cable in all the way over to the driver's side A-pillar.
3. Loosen the A-pillar trim. Start by gently prying off the little "Airbag" badge in the middle of the A-pillar. Use a small screwdriver or something similar.
This will reveal a T25 torx screw, which you will need to remove.
Once this screw is removed, pull the trim piece toward you (if you're sitting in the driver's seat) starting from the top. Do not pull the trim piece all the way off, just enough to be able to do the next steps. You will see the airbag and a bundle of cables behind it.
4. Route the radar detector wiring from the headliner to behind the airbag where the bundle of existing wires is. Zip tie the radar detector wire to this bundle. Working the wire down the A-pillar, zip tying it to the bundle as you go. Be careful to ensure that the wire stays behind the airbag. Also note in this picture that the A-pillar trim piece is still attached at the bottom.
5. Before continuing, remove the semi-circle trim piece on the left side of the dashboard that is parallel to the driver-side door (when closed). Just use a trim removal tool (or similar device) to gently pry it off. There are no screws holding it on. Once off, this will reveal your fuse box.
6. Next remove the long thin trim piece that is just beneath the A-pillar and right next to the semi-circle dash trim piece you just removed. This also just pulls out.
7. Now you're able to route the radar detector wiring down through the bottom of the A-pillar over to the fuse box.
8. Now it's time to connect the ground wire. Next to the fuse box, you'll see several large bolts/nuts. Loosen one of the nuts just enough to slide the ring connector at the end of the ground wire underneath (between the nut and the metal frame), and re-tighten. See bottom right corner of picture above.
9. Now time to connect the power wire. First, cut off the spade terminal off the end of the wire, and strip about a 1/4" of the insulation off the end of the wire.
Next, connect the end of the wire to the add-a-circuit via the crimp connection, and make sure to crimp it tightly so that it won't come out.
You only want your radar detector to be on when the car is on, so you'll want to connect the add-a-circuit to an ignition/ACC source in the fuse box. I chose fuse slot 1 (see this diagram). [CORRECTION: Approximately one month after this install, the radar detector began interfering with the KESSY system, which is apparently on this same circuit. I subsequently moved this to fuse slot 6, which is at the top right of the fuse box.]
You will need to pull the existing fuse (10A) out of that slot. Put the existing fuse into fuse slot A on the add-a-circuit (the slot closest to the prongs). Put your fuse for the radar detector (5A fuse is fine) into fuse slot B on the add-a-circuit.
Now, insert the add-a-circuit into fuse slot 1 in the fuse box. It should look like this (note that I ran out of 5A fuses and had to use a 10A fuse here until I could get to the auto parts store - the fuse closest to the fuse panel should be a 5A fuse).
10. Now that everything is plugged in, turn on the car and make sure it works. Once you confirm that it does, tidy up your wiring (secure it with zip ties and tuck it away). Then replace the trim pieces (everything should push back into place). Replace the torx screw and "airbag" badge. And you should be all set.
NOTES for auto-dimming homelink mirror install: I ran the wires at the same time and in the same way and grounded it at the same place. You must tap power in two places at the fuse box ACC (ignition only power) and 12+ (constant) power. I used fuse slot 5 for ACC and fuse slot 11 for 12+ (see diagram above). Also, be sure to get the VW/Audi mounting adapter kit (part no. 50-P7122), which makes the mounting part of the install take less than 5 minutes. Piece of cake.
Here are pics of the mirror and radar detector installed.
Both of these mods were critical for me. I felt very naked without the radar detector, and the Escort 9500ix does its job very well. The only downside is that I have the 9500ix with the blue display, but I'll switch that over to my wife's car and get a new red one for myself to better match the interior lighting of the R.
The new rear view mirror is excellent. It's really nice not having to keep a garage door opener in the car, for the sake of both security and lack of clutter. It's also nice having the auto-dimming feature because the R is so low to the ground. I got the version (GENK45A) with the compass built in (I like having the MFD free to display other information), but if you want the same mirror without compass, get the GENK41A model instead. The only downsides to the mirror are (1) that the compass letters are bluish-green; and (2) the homelink buttons don't illuminate, so they can be difficult to see at night. Issue no. 1 doesn't really bother me, and issue no. 2 ceases to be a problem because you quickly get a feel for where the button is.
Last edited by TLud; 04-25-2012 at 11:22 AM.
RNS-510 and 9W7 Bluetooth Upgrade
I finished upgrading the standard RNS-315 navigation unit with the RNS-510. I got the latest hardware and firmware version, and I haven't noticed any lag issues. It's fast, has a great display, and some additional features that made the switch worth it for me. For example, with the RNS-510, 3D mode on the map is actually usable and really cool.
Benefits to RNS-510 over RNS-315:
- Larger screen with much higher resolution
- HD Radio
- Sirius traffic info for navi
- Built-in hard drive
- Video playback
- More seemless bluetooth compatibility
There were some issues with the harness, so I ended up just running all the wires myself. Special thanks goes to Siliconrane for helping me trouble shoot the problems I ran into with the bad harness and with coding the new hardware. ADD: Peteski, who sold me the RNS-510 and harness, was great about following up with me and answering my questions after the purchase and took care of me on the harness situation. Despite the harness issues (which I'm sure he'll get taken care of now that he's gotten feedback on an R install), I still highly recommend him as the place to get your RNS-510.
At the same time, I also installed the reverse camera built into the rear badge/hatch handle. It's a pretty trick set-up, the way the hatch handle swings open and the camera pokes out. I didn't take any video of that, but is a video of it from someone else on Youtube. The RVC isn't really necessary in such a small car, but it's nice to have with the limited visibility out of the rear window, especially with passengers in the back seat. No backing into short hidden pillars or poles in downtown parking garages.
ADD: I've gotten a few questions about the RVC, so I'll post my answers here:
1. Is the RVC compatible with the RNS-315 navi unit?
Yes, even though I installed it with the RNS-510, the RVC will work with the RNS-315, which also has the necessary connection. Obviously, the image won't be as big or as clear as in the picture above, due to the smaller screen size and lower resolution.
2. What is the operation like?
The rear badge flips out and the camera pops out immediately when the car is put in reverse. If the car is already on, the image will also show up on the head unit display immediately. If the car is off, and I turn it on and immediately put it in reverse, the camera will pop out immediately, but the display won't show up for a few seconds while the headunit is booting up. In practice, this really isn't a big deal. When the car is put in neutral or drive, the camera will remain out and the image will remain on the screen for a few seconds. This is helpful when engaging in maneuvers that require you to back up, pull forward, and then back up again. The camera remains out the entire time.
3. Is there any difference in the operation of the rear badge latch?
No, the rear badge latch functions exactly like the stock one. Once installed, the latch and emblem looks exactly the same as the stock non-RVC version.
4. Is any cutting or other irreversiblechanges required to fit this kit?
No, not with the MkVI Golf variants.
5. How hard is the install?
The wiring itself is very straightforward. With a couple of exceptions, it is largely plug and play as long as you get the correct harness. To install the RVC, you will have to route the co-axial cable for the video feed and a (red) wire for accessory power from the back of the head unit (tap into an ACC wire at the main headunit harness) all the way to the RVC in the rear hatch (easiest to go down the passenger side of the car). There are also two other wires, for ground (black) and reverse light signal (yellow), that you have to connect, but you can tap into these at the rear tail light harness in the hatch, so no wire routing is necessary for those two.
To run the ACC power wire and video co-ax from front to back, I pulled the head unit, fished the wires behind the glove box and pulled them out through the right side of the dash (there is a semi-circular panel that pops right off) and down to the kick plate. The dash is the least of your worries; the real pain is when you get to the rear of the car. You'll have to remove most of the trim on that side behind the seats, up through a really tight grommet to the rear hatch (you'll obviously have to pull all the trim off the rear hatch). It's not complicated, just a pain running the wires, especially if you're not used to removing trim. I generally relied on this very helpful DIY here for my install.
You will also need to do a little recoding with VCDS (click a check-box to add the RVC) when finished. If anyone has any specific questions, just let me know. I'm happy to help.
Last edited by TLud; 05-03-2012 at 03:07 PM.