But yes, this is about as simple as it gets and was definitely worthwhile for me.
ADD: I also want to find out if I can add the "leaving home" functionality, which normally is not operational without a light sensor/auto headlights.
Last edited by TLud; 04-25-2012 at 03:45 PM.
With the euro auto light switch you can code the coming home option and control the amount of time through the MFI afterwards.Leave the switch in auto mode flic the high beam switch and lock the car,the lights will stay on the amount you allowed through the MFI.
Auto headlights mod is great. Nice find! Just ordered it for mine. Thanks for posting the video.
Question. Any chance you could write an idiots guide for wiring your auto dimming mirror. I purchased the same one but without the compass and plan to install it this weekend. Mounting it will not be a problem for me but I just don't understand precisely what I need to do to wire it in the fuse box.
Post 100 tells you how to route the wires from that location to the fuse box.
Once you have the three wires in that area, loosen one of the large frame bolts that are right there and slip the ring terminal of the ground wire underneath and re-tighten the bolt.
You'll also need 2 add-a-circuits from AutoZone or Pep Boys to connect the two power wires to the fuse box. Strip the ends off of those wires so that you have about a quarter inch of bare, uninsulated wire showing and connect them to the add-a-circuits by crimping them. There are two fuse slots on each of the add-a-circuits. Insert 5 amp mini fuses into the slots furthest away from the prongs (one for each add-a-circuit). These fuses are for the mirror. Now you're ready to plug the add-a-circuits into the appropriate slots in the fuse box. The black wire with the white stripe needs an ignition power source (ACC), which you can do by plugging it into fuse slots 5 or 6 (see the fuse diagram linked in Post 100 above). Slot 6 is the top right slot. Slot 5 is immediately to the left of it. The solid black wire needs a constant power source (12+), which you can get by plugging into fuse slot 12. Those slots already have fuses in them, so you'll need to pull out those fuses (use the little white tool attached to the back of the trim piece you removed to access the fuse panel) and put them into the remaining open slots on the add-a-circuits. Then plug the add-a-circuits, which each should now have two fuses in them (a 5 amp on top of a 10 amp), into the now empty fuse box slots (slot 5 or 6 for the black wire with white stripe and slot 12 for the solid black wire). Before you clean everything up, turn the car on and make sure it works properly. Once you've confirmed that it does, zip tie and secure all the wires and close everything up).
If you have any questions or need me to walk you through it feel free to PM me. If need be, I can give you my number so you can call me and I can help you out.
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I almost feel stupid for asking you this: what happens during the headlight activation sequence?
Btw, thanks for posting your DIY on the radar detector installation. I routed the wiring for my in-car mini DVR along the A-pillar and your DIY helped make it much easier. I was quite surprised that I can't find any fuse diagram in the owner's manual or on the fuse panel door. As far as I can remember this kind of information was readily available when I was working on my mk4 GTI.
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Look, Ma! No blind spot!
I installed the OEM heated aspherical mirrors a few days ago and love 'em. It took a couple of days to get used to the different view, but I wouldn't go back to the standard US-spec mirrors for love or money. The range of view is much greater, and the blind spot is a thing of the past. Objects seem slightly smaller (farther away), especially at the edge of the mirror, but you quickly get used to that. I highly recommend these.
I chose the basic heated version of the Euro aspherical mirrors, which I ordered from BKS Tuning (also available at other vendors). There is also a much more expensive (3x more) "anti-dazzle" (dimming) version, but it's completely unnecessary, especially since I have tinted windows anyway.
The install was easy. Just pry/pop the stock mirrors out from the inboard edge, disconnect the two wires for the mirror heating (basic spade connection), reconnect those wires to the new mirror, and pop it back in. Literally took me 7 minutes total, including wiping down the new mirrors after the install.