Official Stupid Question Thread

[Chuckmeister87]

With the spring I could spike to 22-23 range.

[WiKKiDTT]

With the spring I could spike to 22-23 range.

Was that before?

What are you running now?

[Chuckmeister87]

Was that before?

What are you running now?

Before the spring I was at my flash's max of 20psi and never went over. It didn't feel like it got to 20psi as easily before the spring (creep)..... but like I said, I'm going to remove the small spring in the morning and test it again to see how it runs, then go back to full DV on my Forge splitter (this time without the wastegate mod) to see if I throw a code and run lean.


That's the part that I don't quite get.. the DV is to keep the air IN the system instead of eject it from the engine. The ECU calculates for all of the air to remain in the system and if you went full BOV on a 1.8t you would run rich every time you released pressure from the BOV.. so why am I running lean with a full DV and the wastegate mod and running normal as the splitter with the wastegate mod? My assumption is the Unitronics Stage 1+ tune has something to do with the wastegate mod not working correctly with my car, or I have a fault somewhere else in my system I don't know about.. which is why I'm posting all available data for the wizards to review

[Marcus_Aurelius]

You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.

[WiKKiDTT]

You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.

This guy😎

[Chuckmeister87]

You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.

That's definitely not the issue. I'd been using the springs for over a week without going into limp mode or throwing a code. I took the spring off today, let the car warm up, and drove around again to see if it would give me another CEL. Sure enough, I was in limp mode by the time I was at the end of my street and had a CEL for running lean before I got a mile down the road. I've got another issue somewhere. What's the most common failure for fuel related issues in the 1.8t? Injectors, fuel pump, a sensor reading something incorrecty...

[Forty-six and 2]

I have had a -8 fuel rail lying around for a few years now, and am wondering if any harm would come swapping out the stock one for it? I know the fpr won't work with it, and I will most likely need braided to hardline fittings.

Mainly curious about any ill affects it may have...

[peter139]

stupid question:

If the hood is open, will it displayed on the tacho (with ignition on)?

[TTC2k5]

stupid question:

If the hood is open, will it displayed on the tacho (with ignition on)?

No. Doors and hatch, yes, but not hood.

[peter139]

ok thanks, that sensor on the front, is only for the alarm?

[Mantvis]

sensor?

[PLAYED TT]

If the hoods not closed it won't beep because the sensor

[DeckManDubs]

If the hoods not closed it won't beep because the sensor

James, how did you make out with the trans mount bracket?

[PLAYED TT]

James, how did you make out with the trans mount bracket?

We made due. Check the gtg thread

[Mantvis]

Im alittle lost shop called and said that i have dual mass flywheel. So it needs to be replaced, what would it take to instal a (http://www.goapr.com/products/dxdclu...d=18ttrans6spd) APR stage 2 daily clutch? Would i need any other extra parts? Because they said i will need some kind of a conversion.
they are sayign that the transmission or the flywheel (cant remember) is vibrating so much that its throwing off the timing by vibrating the crankshaft sensor. Is that even possible?
Im soooooo LOST!

[Mantvis]

Need a DIY how to change flywheel.

[PLAYED TT]

Buy a Bentley. But better yet judging by the first post you should let a shop handle it

[Mantvis]

Buy a Bentley. But better yet judging by the first post you should let a shop handle it

Found it! Will be trying to knock it down this weekend
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-Quick-Version

[Chuckmeister87]

For those with quattro:

If you lift your car, have it completely turned off, and spin 1 of the back tires, what does the other one do?

[Marcus_Aurelius]

For those with quattro:

what does the other one do?

Nothing! If it does something, then you must have some locking mechanism on the open diff.

[Mantvis]

Is it possible that i cant start my car just because my flywheel has failed? It does start from time to time but it idles terribly and then stalls. The vibration is awfull to it feels like a huge vibrator haha
My shop is guessing its the flywheel, but im doubting them. Any input would be nice.
Thanks

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Is it possible that i cant start my car just because my flywheel has failed? It does start from time to time but it idles terribly and then stalls. The vibration is awfull to it feels like a huge vibrator haha
My shop is guessing its the flywheel, but im doubting them. Any input would be nice.
Thanks

Possible since the starter uses the flywheel ring gears to turn the motor over. Bad engagement and it will fail to start, just enough engagement and it'll turn over and start. The vibration at idles worries me a bit, but trying to get moving with a bad flywheel should give you that giant vibrator feeling.

[Mantvis]

Possible since the starter uses the flywheel ring gears to turn the motor over. Bad engagement and it will fail to start, just enough engagement and it'll turn over and start. The vibration at idles worries me a bit, but trying to get moving with a bad flywheel should give you that giant vibrator feeling.

When everything was "okay" it would make clunk sound once in a while while idling. But i wasnt shure what could it be. Im wondering what could cause the car to stall once its idling. Could a bad flywheel really cause all this big mess?

[Audiguy84]

that's definitely not the issue. I'd been using the springs for over a week without going into limp mode or throwing a code. I took the spring off today, let the car warm up, and drove around again to see if it would give me another cel. Sure enough, i was in limp mode by the time i was at the end of my street and had a cel for running lean before i got a mile down the road. I've got another issue somewhere. What's the most common failure for fuel related issues in the 1.8t? Injectors, fuel pump, a sensor reading something incorrecty...

vacuum leak after the maf??

[peter139]

question:

my steering rack is leak, everywhere oil under the car.
So difficult to find another one, but i found one of a golf mk4

Is this the same rack?

Part numbers:
TT 8N1 422 061DX
Golf mk4 1J1 422 061FX

Will this fit?

Someone can confirm this?

[Marcus_Aurelius]

question:

my steering rack is leak, everywhere oil under the car.
So difficult to find another one, but i found one of a golf mk4

Is this the same rack?

Part numbers:
TT 8N1 422 061DX
Golf mk4 1J1 422 061FX

Will this fit?

Someone can confirm this?

It will bolt up and fit! However, the ratio is slower than the TT rack which will work but felt as a lost in steering sharpness. All the MK4 guys that race or autocross upgrade to the TT rack, so it's basically a downgrade.

[Mantvis]

Im trying to remove my trans using R32 DIY (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...n#post79299452)

Step 19 says
19. Remove four 16mm bolts connecting transfer case to transmission Be patient. These can take some time and be a pain but they all are accessible

Problem is i cant even see top bolts
Can someone guide me to the right direction?

[DougLoBue]

The method they are using to drop the transmission involves leaving the bevel box attached to the car and pulling out the passenger axle cup. This allows the trans to be dropped like a FWD transmission and allows you to not remove the subframe. Requires the fluid to be drained though.

The allen key bolt in the lower left hand corner of your second picture is one of the four that holds this together. These are not the easiest of things to remove on our cars compared to an R - and you need the right tools- a ball seated long reach allen key. Don't even attempt it without one. You can get a long reach set at your local harbor freight cheap.

In addition to that you need an 6mm allen key that is about 8" long or so to remove the long bolt from the inside of the passenger axle cup. You can make one by cutting a key, JB welding it into a 6mm socket on a 1/4 drive with a long 1/4 extension.

If you decide you want to leave the bevel box intact you need to drop the subframe and unbolt the haldex from the car. I've done it both ways- the downside to dropping the subframe is- more work and a heavier trans to fit into the car as there is a trick to getting it to work as well. The downside to leaving the bevel box attached is all trans fluid is going to drain out as soon as you pull that passenger axle cup out. So you should drain the trans as neatly as possible from the bevel box and the bottom of the trans drain plug so you don't have as much of a mess.

Does that make sense ?

I've done this both ways a few times now. I like leaving the bevel box in the car because it requires half of the disassemble, but things get kind of tight on the passenger side sometimes when pulling that long axle cup assembly out. You might need to disconnect the Pass balljoint and swing the passenger axle out of the way.

[20v master]

In addition to that you need an 6mm allen key that is about 8" long or so to remove the long bolt from the inside of the passenger axle cup. You can make one by cutting a key, JB welding it into a 6mm socket on a 1/4 drive with a long 1/4 extension.

Or just buy the right 1/4" drive 6mm hex bit and a long 1/4" extension. I've stalked a Snap On truck for this bit before.

I don't think I'll ever pull a TTQ trans without just taking the whole engine and trans out together.

[peter139]

@marcus Thanks for your advice.

I called today several companies and your story confirmed this.
Tonight i unbolted the steering rack from the car, and the cause of my problem is rust:
see pic:
http://i48.tinypic.com/35ktw6u.jpg

Tommorow i will get a new used rack

[DougLoBue]

Or just buy the right 1/4" drive 6mm hex bit and a long 1/4" extension. I've stalked a Snap On truck for this bit before.

I don't think I'll ever pull a TTQ trans without just taking the whole engine and trans out together.

With the stock DMF you can't separate them that way! Sucks...

[Mantvis]

The method they are using to drop the transmission involves leaving the bevel box attached to the car and pulling out the passenger axle cup. This allows the trans to be dropped like a FWD transmission and allows you to not remove the subframe. Requires the fluid to be drained though.

The allen key bolt in the lower left hand corner of your second picture is one of the four that holds this together. These are not the easiest of things to remove on our cars compared to an R - and you need the right tools- a ball seated long reach allen key. Don't even attempt it without one. You can get a long reach set at your local harbor freight cheap.

In addition to that you need an 6mm allen key that is about 8" long or so to remove the long bolt from the inside of the passenger axle cup. You can make one by cutting a key, JB welding it into a 6mm socket on a 1/4 drive with a long 1/4 extension.

If you decide you want to leave the bevel box intact you need to drop the subframe and unbolt the haldex from the car. I've done it both ways- the downside to dropping the subframe is- more work and a heavier trans to fit into the car as there is a trick to getting it to work as well. The downside to leaving the bevel box attached is all trans fluid is going to drain out as soon as you pull that passenger axle cup out. So you should drain the trans as neatly as possible from the bevel box and the bottom of the trans drain plug so you don't have as much of a mess.

Does that make sense ?

I've done this both ways a few times now. I like leaving the bevel box in the car because it requires half of the disassemble, but things get kind of tight on the passenger side sometimes when pulling that long axle cup assembly out. You might need to disconnect the Pass balljoint and swing the passenger axle out of the way.

Thanks for the great description! I was able to get everything out except the top 2 bolts I cant even see them! Where to you unbolt them throu? Through the passanger side wheel arch or from the bottom of the car? From where from should i take a picture so you could actually show me which bolts they are? Everything is so tight that I feel there is no way ill be able to see the top bolts

BTW I had to use 10mm allen key (heads up if anyone was going to try it)

[Mantvis]

So here i took out the 2 bottom bolts, but how do i get to the top????

[DougLoBue]

long reach ball seated allen key.

The bolts are in the same place on the top as they are on the bottom- reach over the bevel box.

[Mantvis]

long reach ball seated allen key.

The bolts are in the same place on the top as they are on the bottom- reach over the bevel box.

Well this sucks then! Haha its impossible with apr stage 3+ kit :/ i guess my option is to remove the haldex :/