Mobil 1 0w-40 or 5w-40

[08vwjettamk5]

I have a 08 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 2.0T and I am about to change the oil for the first time. I was wondering if I should use Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol Edge synthetic 5w-40, or Castrol Edge 5w-30 advance synthetic, if I live in Florida?

[DasCC]

The Mobil 040 and syntec 540 are 502 00 compliant. I don't think the 530 is unless it's GC.


Sent from my iDevice

[Apexxx]

2.0 FSI is tough on oil. I'd use a HD 5w-40 for diesels, like Rotella. The M1 5w-40 you find may or may not be the good stuff. At walmart, the 4q M1 5w-40 jugs are the same price as the 5q of other Mobil 1. Does that make it the same as Delvac? Hard to say for sure.

Anyway, at WalMart you'll find Rotella "T6" 5w-40 or "T5" 10w-30 Semi syn there too. Lots of auto stores carry it now too.

I can recommend one other oil, Mobil 1 HIGH MILES oils. I'd try the 10w-30 and see how your consumption rate is. If you consume >1q/1500mi, step up the the M1 10w-40 HiMiles.

If you see extreme cold, M1 0w-40 is a better option, although M1 High-Miles 5w-30 is very much a cold-weather oil for Euro cars, and it comes in 5q jugs.

There is also German Syntec 0w-30.

It's a tough engine to maintain. Try some (TCW-3) 2-cycle oil in the gas at 500:1 3oz/10g.

Use Top-Tier gas and don't f around with the air filter more than necessary. A used 2.0 FSI should have a borescope and intake cleaning asap.

[Rico1]

If it meets the manufacturer's spec for your car (e.g., VW 502.00 or whatever), by all means use it.

As for getting creative with engine oil choice, I never do, but YMMV. For expert opinion, I recommend the BITOG site (Bob Is The Oil Guy). They are the expertise.....some contributors are real tribologists (lubrication chemists) that work in the industry that makes motor oil and everything. I learned a lot there.

[Apexxx]

Yawn.

So NOTHING other than VW 502 will work?

lol.

[Chasman332]

cleaning agents in fuel do not work on FSI motors

[Apexxx]

The owner's manual specifies TT fuel.

[Downeywu]

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 in my 1.8t engine...Advance Auto parts has a special on mobil 1 oil...$32 for 5Qt. jug and filter, and i live in NJ

[BsickPassat]

The owner's manual specifies TT fuel.

...and it does nothing to prevent the carbon build up on the intake valves that plague direct injection (only) engines

[Apexxx]

...and it does nothing to prevent the carbon build up on the intake valves that plague direct injection (only) engines

It's almost like you ~blame~ me.

I think there are a lot of variables. Intake deposits dont' see to be a problem in Europe, where fuel quality is MUCH higher.

Valve lap during VVT action does induce fuel spray to be drawn past intake valves. That's the case in Nissan's crumbling cat issue. How would cat debris get drawn into the engine....?

I use TT fuel.

[BsickPassat]

cat deterioration isn't an issue.

fuel quality in europe doesn't affect the intake clogging issue.

on non-turbo fsi, it does allow to operate in the stratified mode

but with turbos, it's a single mode only

the other main difference is oils last longer due to the fuel, suitable for extended oci's

adding tcw-2 oil isn't going to keep your intake valves clean

[Dennis M]

So NOTHING other than VW 502 will work?

Sure there are non VW 502's that will work (Red Line 5W-40, M1 TDT 5W-40, Renewable Lube xW-30/5W-40). But you should be clear to the OP that these do not meet VW specs if they are concerned about being covered under their warranty. And one or two random uoa's do not tell you much unless you're trying to spot a mechanical problem. You need to establish a trend to find an alternative to VW 502 oils (or even comparing 502 oils) and spend much more than $30.

08vw - Pass on the Castrol Edge 5w-30. As mentioned, it doesn't meet VW specs and will shear to a 20 weight the moment that you start the car.

[Apexxx]

You can recite from the old playbook or you can post some bad UOAs from 30 weight oil.

I have my data, where is yours?













The Edge 5w-30 being the best 1.8t UOA I ever saw, same w/Brad Penn 10w-30 in a FSI 2.0 T.

[BsickPassat]

If Brad Penn is so good, why don't you run it on your car?

Afraid it's going to destroy the catalytic converter? That's why it performs so well in terms of wear metals... it has a lot of ZDDP.

[gmikel]

You can recite from the old playbook or you can post some bad UOAs from 30 weight oil.

I have my data, where is yours?













The Edge 5w-30 being the best 1.8t UOA I ever saw, same w/Brad Penn 10w-30 in a FSI 2.0 T.

somebody else used oil analisis is just that, somebody elses. it's not you driving, it's not where you live and its not your car. one guys easy might be rougher than the next guys easy. uoa's are great for industrial and fleet use. just a toy for the rest of us.

[Dennis M]

You can recite from the old playbook or you can post some bad UOAs from 30 weight oil.
I have my data, where is yours?

This is supposed to be dealer Syntec 5W-40, but it's obviously not with the calcium and magnesium levels that look closer to a typical 5W-30.

UOA by Oil Analyzers Inc.

Comments: Lubricant and filter change is suggested if not done at sampling time; Infared results indicate that NITRATION is at a SIGNIFICANT LEVEL; Aluminum is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Flagged data has been rechecked and reconfirmed.

Equipment make: Audi
Equipment model: 3.2L V6
Oil use interval: 5,591 miles
Oil capacity: 7 Qts.
Oil type & Grade: Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Make-up oil added: 0
Miles on unit: 10,760
Air filter: OEM
Oil filter: OEM
Overall severity of report = 3 abnormal

Iron 30
Chromium 0
Nickel 0
Aluminum 11
Copper 12
Lead 0
Tin 2
Cadmium 0
Silver 0
Silicon 26
Sodium 61
Potassium 3
Titanium 0
Molybdenum 7
Antimony 3
Manganese 6
Lithium 0
Boron 14
Magnesium 18
Calcium 2096
Barium 1
Phosphorus 690
Zinc 811

Fuel % 1.9%
Soot <.1%
Water <.1%
Vis @ 100C: 10.7
TBN 3.37
Oxidation 14
Nitration 28 (abnormal)

Lube chg: No
Filter chg: No

[Dennis M]

somebody else used oil analisis is just that, somebody elses. it's not you driving, it's not where you live and its not your car. one guys easy might be rougher than the next guys easy. uoa's are great for industrial and fleet use. just a toy for the rest of us.

+1. I use uoa's for entertainment purposes only! If you really want to get into uoa's, you'll pay more than $30.

...Firstly, it is important to realize that you get what you pay for. The most common forms of UOA are limited in their scope. It is a case of if you pay more you get more. So my comments here relate primarily to the “simple” UOAs...

Secondly, it is easy to assume that by carrying out a UOA you will be able to determine how quickly the engine is wearing out. As well, if you change lubricant Brands you will be able to compare the wear metal uptake results and then make a balanced best lubricant choice to make your engine last longer.

Sadly that logic is seriously flawed.

Single pass (random) UOAs will provide some information regarding wear metals but unless you have a history of your engine’s performance up to around 1 million miles the results are simply that – UOA results!...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/

[Apexxx]

Universal averages have nothing to do with it either.

Funny how my wear rate on Edge 5w-30 was identical to Motul 5w-40. Just a fluke I guess because UOAs are meaningless...






His metals are trending downward, predictably and proportionally.

My metals are X% lower than average, a winter run, with fuel dilution and it was essentially a 20 weight. The oil itself cost me zero.


I'm still waiting for the BIG ANSWER from the BIG EXPERTS of how a bad oil can produce a good UOA.

[Apexxx]

Such high sodium makes me first think of a coolant leak. A few brands of dino use Na as an additive, GTX and Mobil Clean, but idk if it's quite that much.

Was the oil tested for coolant? I know 3.2s were blowing water pumps for a while. Maybe the repair left some residual coolant or failed completely.

w/o more real info I can't comment other than to say that's not Syntec, 5w-40 especially. iirc, 502 Syntec = Rotella T + 1800 mg/kg of organo-metallics.

Older Audi V6s usually wear very moderately and CAN use any oil, even S4s do well on decent fluids.

[Dennis M]

Not wanting to go too far OT, but the Syntec 5W-40 voa's that I've seen had much lower Ca and higher Mg (typical of most 40 weights).

My Forester produced good uoa's but the uoa's gave no indication of a problem before I blew my turbo.

-Dennis

[gmikel]

Not wanting to go too far OT, but the Syntec 5W-40 voa's that I've seen had much lower Ca and higher Mg (typical of most 40 weights).

My Forester produced good uoa's but the uoa's gave no indication of a problem before I blew my turbo.

-Dennis

they can't predict the future, personally i'don't think they show much about the past

[Broke Status]

Best oil I have seen for the 2.0t that had little oil consumptions and came out clean every 5000 KM was Lubro Moly... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Engine/513/12 FOR FSI and http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Engine/513/13 FOR TSI take your pick by far one of the best oils out there and test proven in extreme hot and cold weather to have little oil consumption at my shop.

[meboice]

I wouldn't necessarily agree with you here. A UOA provides valuable information, far and above baseless opinions and anecdotal fanny dyno experience. How a UOA is used to determine future oil selection, as you point out, can be a little suspect. I looked at over 100 UOAs and paid for two of my own before deciding to use Mobil 1 5W40 TDT in my wifes 2.0 Passat. Redline and Amsoil, to name two faired a bit better in some areas but relatively this oil performs well in this motor in my wifes driving venue.

So a UOA is an important tool to use but you have to look at many UOAs with the same motor driven in a similar environment in order to determine an oil's relative effectiveness...all of this is better than no information at all.

somebody else used oil analisis is just that, somebody elses. it's not you driving, it's not where you live and its not your car. one guys easy might be rougher than the next guys easy. uoa's are great for industrial and fleet use. just a toy for the rest of us.

[gmikel]

I wouldn't necessarily agree with you here. A UOA provides valuable information, far and above baseless opinions and anecdotal fanny dyno experience. How a UOA is used to determine future oil selection, as you point out, can be a little suspect. I looked at over 100 UOAs and paid for two of my own before deciding to use Mobil 1 5W40 TDT in my wifes 2.0 Passat. Redline and Amsoil, to name two faired a bit better in some areas but relatively this oil performs well in this motor in my wifes driving venue.

So a UOA is an important tool to use but you have to look at many UOAs with the same motor driven in a similar environment in order to determine an oil's relative effectiveness...all of this is better than no information at all.

red hook, we all can have our own opinion, no problem. some just think the others have no right to an opinion.

[Apexxx]

I'm still waiting for the BIG ANSWER from the BIG EXPERTS of how a bad oil can produce a good UOA.

[gmikel]

nothing is as complicated as you make it.

[mylesp]

It almost seems a little radical to send out oil samples? I believe proper oil change intervals and a proper spec oil weather its 502. spec or 505 will minimize wear. I had a customer come in with 2.7 s4 and had over 300k and never had an issue ever with his engine. All he uses is pennzoil platinum 5/30 I highly doubt he sent off oil samples. He just sticks to his owners manual recommendations.

Besides, all it takes is one neglected oil change to cause some ring damage. Doesnt matter what oil your using.

[Apexxx]

2.7tt is a very easy engine to lube.

Pennzoil Platinum isn't an approved oil, but as I contend it's a great oil in the correct visc.

I don't know why you think a $15 UOA is extraordinary..?





There are numerous instances where OE oil recommendations caused engine failures. Most people are aware of this. You might want to refine your argument.

Is there any way on Earth that my 5k changes on modern ACEA A5 5w-30 oil like Pennzoil Platinum from WalMart are better than 10k changes of dealer Syntec 5w-40 that's locked-in to their old 1998 VW 502 formula. Maybe?



502 didn't work too well here either...



How about German Syntec 0w-30? Factory-Fill in 1.8t, but n/a at dealerships. Should I just pour my last case down the drain?

[mylesp]

That is correct! platinum 5w30 is not approved however that doesnt mean it doesnt work. 5w30 eruo spec IS approved but it is a differnt spec. Fact of the matter is clean oil will keep your engine happy.

As for the 0w40 or 5w40 the oil should be the same visc for operating temperature since its a 40 weight oil. The 0 or 5 is your cold start visc and if your in a warm climate either shouldnt be an issue. It gets to minus 35-40 degrees C here and I have not had any issues with oil flow in the mornings. As long as it meets manufactures spec you will be fine.

[Apexxx]

Just like the other 5w-30 OE oils, in Europe they are a different formula. Thicker, to meet the ACEA A3 spec (VW 502) with the required HT/HS of >3.5cP at +150c. Our USA 5w-30 is thinner and lower HT/HS of 2.9cP.

You'll find Valvoline SynPower is another example, where it actually was presented on VoA's 502 "approved" list, although the US version is NOT the correct product, rather referring to the Euro version.

Excessive changing of the oil can be especially bad on a DI engine. The lighter fractions boil off of fresh oil and leave varnish-y sludge.

[gmikel]

Just like the other 5w-30 OE oils, in Europe they are a different formula. Thicker, to meet the ACEA A3 spec (VW 502) with the required HT/HS of >3.5cP at +150c. Our USA 5w-30 is thinner and lower HT/HS of 2.9cP.

You'll find Valvoline SynPower is another example, where it actually was presented on VoA's 502 "approved" list, although the US version is NOT the correct product, rather referring to the Euro version.

Excessive changing of the oil can be especially bad on a DI engine. The lighter fractions boil off of fresh oil and leave varnish-y sludge.

i've currently got 2 v-dubs and neither uses a drop of oil to 4k. then i use about .5 qt per thousand, not bad. how's that for boiling off? don't get it. sorry hard to believe that changing your oil is a bad thing.

it's really not that complicated.

[Apexxx]

Do a little research and get back.

[gmikel]

Do a little research and get back.

one car has 150k, the other 100k, the dipstick tells me when to add oil, not somebody else's experience.

[BsickPassat]

Just like the other 5w-30 OE oils, in Europe they are a different formula. Thicker, to meet the ACEA A3 spec (VW 502) with the required HT/HS of >3.5cP at +150c. Our USA 5w-30 is thinner and lower HT/HS of 2.9cP.

You'll find Valvoline SynPower is another example, where it actually was presented on VoA's 502 "approved" list, although the US version is NOT the correct product, rather referring to the Euro version.

Excessive changing of the oil can be especially bad on a DI engine. The lighter fractions boil off of fresh oil and leave varnish-y sludge.

Fuel dilution regardless of OCI is bad.

Second...varnishy sludge isn't the big issue with DI. It's the intake valve area that gets sludged up, however, it's not caused by excessively short OCI's..... and TCW-3 additives won't help either.

[gmikel]

Fuel dilution regardless of OCI is bad.

Second...varnishy sludge isn't the big issue with DI. It's the intake valve area that gets sludged up, however, it's not caused by excessively short OCI's..... and TCW-3 additives won't help either.

if you a have a direct injection engine (EVERYONE'S GOT PCV), does not matter what brand oil or engine manufacturer, the pcv gasses are going to leave deposits on the intake tract, really simple. but?

can we get a graph or chart to dispute this audisquirt?