Mobil 1 0w-40 or 5w-40

[edyvw]

Off course you have in EU Group III oils. But, by the EU laws you cannot advertise them as fully synthetic oils!
Only PAO and Ester are advertised as fully synthetic and for example almost ALL Castrol or Mobil1 oils for Europe are true synthetics same as other manufacturers.
Driving conditions there require more stable oils then here.

[Apexxx]

Not anymore.

Are we done yet?

[edyvw]

Why should we be done?
Since when Not anymore?
As far as I know, EU laws clearly states that fully sythetic oils are from sythetic base. Other sythetics have to have different lables (syn technology, HC etc).
We are not done, maybe you get passport and get a tour of other parts of planet!

[Apexxx]

lol, someplace like the Deep South? No thanks!

[BsickPassat]

I call BS on the 2.0T cam follower. It happens regardless of which oil you use. The cam follower wear is due to a poor design, and will happen even if you use HDEO oils.

Even if you use Apexxx's recommended ACEA A5 5w30 oils, it will still happen.

The tappet style cam follower is where you want to have a higher HTHS.

VW502.00/505.00/505.01 was updated in 2004, primarily for Euro IV emissions regulation, which some additional performance improvements, not only sludge.

the 1.8T sludged engine? Post the link to the thread... there are plenty of people whom have used 502.00 in the longitudinal engine without sludging.

[Anony00GT]

I call BS on the 2.0T cam follower. It happens regardless of which oil you use. The cam follower wear is due to a poor design, and will happen even if you use HDEO oils.

Even if you use Apexxx's recommended ACEA A5 5w30 oils, it will still happen.

The tappet style cam follower is where you want to have a higher HTHS.

VW502.00/505.00/505.01 was updated in 2004, primarily for Euro IV emissions regulation, which some additional performance improvements, not only sludge.

the 1.8T sludged engine? Post the link to the thread... there are plenty of people whom have used 502.00 in the longitudinal engine without sludging.

Yes, the cam follower is a design flaw, nothing to do with oil, anyone who works on VW even a little bit knows that.

I call BS on the AVK cam journal as well. That's oil starvation, not incorrect oil. Another problem I've personally seen before.

The 1.8T in his pics, well, we don't know what the history really was. Can we at least get a definitive and verifiable source for the pic? Surely we aren't to believe that it was VW-approved oil changed at the proper interval simply because Apexxx says so. That would be failure to think for ourselves, "sticking our head in the sand" so to speak, right Apexxx?

Unlike him, most of us actually work on cars and have actually seen these failures firsthand. He's just reading internet oil analysis and jumping to conclusions that have nothing to do with real-world experience.

[edyvw]

lol, someplace like the Deep South? No thanks!

Well, as far as I know you do not need passport for deepsouth, but as charts and other stuuf, that "info" you can find on internet

[Apexxx]

So, the clown-consensus is that VW 502 oils never fail at prescribed 10k intervals?

I find that a hilarious notion.

[Apexxx]

Here's another good one, "lifetime" fluids for autotrans.

Keep thumping those owners manuals against your head guys, it leaves me LOTS of clean family entertainment.

[Anony00GT]

Here's another good one, "lifetime" fluids for autotrans.

Keep thumping those owners manuals against your head guys, it leaves me LOTS of clean family entertainment.

Here's one for you. Just from my point of view.

Service Manual + Experience = 100% success rate.

I'm sure you'll find a reason I'm wrong, but at a 100% success rate, I'm sticking to what works.

Hey, since you're so knowledgeable, why don't you try answering some questions in the other technical forums, eh? You know, questions that don't relate to the chemical composition of lube

[gmikel]

I call BS on the 2.0T cam follower. It happens regardless of which oil you use. The cam follower wear is due to a poor design, and will happen even if you use HDEO oils.

Even if you use Apexxx's recommended ACEA A5 5w30 oils, it will still happen.

The tappet style cam follower is where you want to have a higher HTHS.

VW502.00/505.00/505.01 was updated in 2004, primarily for Euro IV emissions regulation, which some additional performance improvements, not only sludge.

the 1.8T sludged engine? Post the link to the thread... there are plenty of people whom have used 502.00 in the longitudinal engine without sludging.

150000 plus mile no problems. until last oil change always 502 oils w/ 4500mi oci. got friends with another 100000 miles and no problems.

as for the 2.0t cam follower, try to envision a lifter working at 3x the rate of a valve tappet.

[BsickPassat]

150000 plus mile no problems. until last oil change always 502 oils w/ 4500mi oci. got friends with another 100000 miles and no problems.

as for the 2.0t cam follower, try to envision a lifter working at 3x the rate of a valve tappet.

the 2.0t with the tappet follower is a 2 lobe profile

the 2.0 tsi is a 3 lobe profile plus roller follower

[gmikel]

the 2.0t with the tappet follower is a 2 lobe profile

the 2.0 tsi is a 3 lobe profile plus roller follower

looks like 3 lobes to me, cam 1/2 crank, idk. vag diagrams show 2 lobes, but they have 3 in real life.

[edyvw]

So, the clown-consensus is that VW 502 oils never fail at prescribed 10k intervals?

I find that a hilarious notion.

Now I am starting to think you are still not old enough for driving license!

[Apexxx]

Service Manual + Experience = 100% success rate.

I'm sure you'll find a reason I'm wrong, but at a 100% success rate, I'm sticking to what works.

Man, you have a rich fantasy life!

If I had no clue, no confidence in my own knowledge, I guess I would use the manual as a guideline. It is afterall written for old ladies and other fartknockers.

lmk HOW a 5w-40 is the "100%" choice when it's farkin' cold.



lmk HOW plain A3/5 synth is a ~really~ bad idea...



Hmm...?














Hahahah, you guys make it so easy.

TELL US HOW you come to your technical conclusions, not how you ~feel~, like a little girl.

[Anony00GT]

Man, you have a rich fantasy life!

If I had no clue, no confidence in my own knowledge, I guess I would use the manual as a guideline. It is afterall written for old ladies and other fartknockers.




TELL US HOW you come to your technical conclusions, not how you ~feel~, like a little girl.

Please go into ANY other technical forum on this site, or anywhere else, and tell people that the service manual (not owners manual) is a mere "guideline". Have you ever read a service manual? You probably think "service manual" and "owners manual" are the same thing, right? Because that's clearly what's implied by your above response.

In fact, why don't you step up to my earlier challenge, try answering questions in other technical forums? Heck, someone posted right here in this forum not too long ago asking for an oil pressure spec, and I noticed you steered clean and clear away from that one. Are you afraid of proving how little about automobiles you really know?

Now, quit the name-calling, and man up to the above challenge. Or shut up and go away.

I bet you're going to reply to this, and it's going to include at least one instance of calling me a name and/or insinuating that i'm completely retarded. Grow up

[edyvw]

Please go into ANY other technical forum on this site, or anywhere else, and tell people that the service manual (not owners manual) is a mere "guideline". Have you ever read a service manual? You probably think "service manual" and "owners manual" are the same thing, right?

In fact, why don't you step up to my earlier challenge, try answering questions in other technical forums? Heck, someone posted right here in this forum not too long ago asking for an oil pressure spec, and I noticed you steered clean and clear away from that one. Are you afraid of proving how little about automobiles you really know?

Now, quit the name-calling, and man up to the above challenge. Or shut up and go away.

I bet you're going to reply to this, and it's going to include at least one instance of calling me a name and/or insinuating that i'm completely retarded. Grow up

That guy still thinks that Shell and Pennzoil are two different companies and he claims he knows oil's!

[Anony00GT]

That guy still thinks that Shell and Pennzoil are two different companies and he claims he knows oil's!

Yeah...I don't think he's ever touched a car beyond the steering wheel and maybe gearshift. I bet he knows ProLine oil real well though

Oh great. Now he's going to come back in here and call us both names. I'm scared!

[Apexxx]

So, you have nothing? Big surprise, lol.

Hahahaha!

Maybe you should check my pic poster before running your mouth(s).



After 15 Audis, I don't even bother counting the VWs.







oops.






I found gmikel's pics though...



Some Altezza taillights would set that shiz off RIGHT!


lol.

[BsickPassat]

wow!!! so you actually live in the deep south, working for APR.

I never knew the deep south winters got down to the single digits

[edyvw]

But I do admire his communication skills. Obvious example what is wrng with our elementary and high school system!

[Anony00GT]

But I do admire his communication skills. Obvious example what is wrng with our elementary and high school system!

Why educate people when you can make fun of them instead?

Took like 3 threads and a million times asking, but it looks like we finally got some form of credentials from the guy. I'm sure most of his technical information is correct, but it could be presented in a more friendly form for sure.

Suck it.



Redline Strait 40, ftw!

And he's an ugly bastid too

[Anony00GT]

lmk HOW a 5w-40 is the "100%" choice when it's farkin' cold.

Now that we've established some credibility for you, let me answer this question.

In short, I my area doesn't see "farkin cold" temps.

It never does, and to my knowledge never has, dropped to -30*C (~-22*F) anywhere near where I live and work. On a cold winter day, it might hit 0*F (~-17*C), but even then temps that cold aren't that common even in the dead of winter. The two coldest months are December and January, and they average 30-32*F (-1.1-0*C). Given that information, 5w-40 is fine, not far at all from the other oils on this chart. Of course, if I was in Alaska, I wouldn't be using 5w-40, but I'm not in Alaska. Also, I'd think anyone living in consistent temps that cold would use a block warmer as well.

[Apexxx]

New Jersey low temp record –34f –37c

Around 0f is -20c, making the 5w-40 10,000cSt, over 3x thicker than 5w-30.

I'm not sure what you intend to gain with tar-like oil.

Like I said many times, toss a q of each grade in the freezer (if your BF allows it) and see for yourself the difference.

[Apexxx]

If all this fuss is over lube for a 2.Slo, I will be mad.

[Anony00GT]

New Jersey low temp record –34f –37c

Around 0f is -20c, making the 5w-40 10,000cSt, over 3x thicker than 5w-30.

I'm not sure what you intend to gain with tar-like oil.

Like I said many times, toss a q of each grade in the freezer (if your BF allows it) and see for yourself the difference.

I said average, not record. Average winter temps are closer to 0*C. Sure there are colder days, but I'm generalizing here. Exactly where and when was -34*F recorded? Oh yeah, River Vale back in 1904

I think I'll try the freezer trick, just for kicks. You've at least got my curiosity going. I believe a block warmer is a necessity in areas where temps regularly sink into negative numbers F, to avoid this tar-like condition you speak of.

If all this fuss is over lube for a 2.Slo, I will be mad.

If you think this is about my own car (the POS in my sig), you're sadly mistaken and proves that you know about as much about me as I do about you

[Apexxx]

[gmikel]

and estranged from reality?

[Anony00GT]

and estranged from reality?

I thought that was a pretty cool vid actually.

[gmikel]

I thought that was a pretty cool vid actually.

but the fact remains

[Dennis M]

New Jersey low temp record –34f –37c

Around 0f is -20c, making the 5w-40 10,000cSt, over 3x thicker than 5w-30.

I'm not sure what you intend to gain with tar-like oil.

Like I said many times, toss a q of each grade in the freezer (if your BF allows it) and see for yourself the difference.

This is just silly.

I've used 10W-40 conventional here in NJ down into the single digits F in a '99 Outback and never felt it was too thick. In fact, the owner's manual allows it down to -4F.

The ASTM D-5293 Cold Cranking Simulator test is performed at -30C on 5W's, and at -25C on 10W's, so that's good enough for me. http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm
Running 0W-40 in the Q5 right now, but only because it was on sale and not because I planned to encounter -35C temps.

The viscosity of 5W-40 is not 10,000 cst's at 0F. Using -18C, the viscosity of Syntec 5W-40 is
is around 2,800 cSt's at 0F. Syntec 5W-30 is 2,286 cSt's at the same temperature.

http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._Sept_2011.pdf

-Dennis

[Apexxx]

I get 5600cSt for 5w-40 and 3000cSt for 5w-30 at 0f. Twice as thick. Go below that, it's 3x as thick....just like I said.

[Dennis M]

I get 5600cSt for 5w-40 and 3000cSt for 5w-30 at 0f. Twice as thick. Go below that, it's 3x as thick....just like I said.

Nope, try again.
Syntec 5W-30 is 10.7 cSt's at 100C and 62.64 at 40C. 5W-40 is 13.9 at 100C and 82.6 at 100C. At -18C, the 5W-30 is 2285.5 and the 5W-40 is 2798.8.

Feel free to take a screen shot and post it here.

-Dennis

[gmikel]

does anyone even remember how it started? i'm as guilty as the rest, but it's time to let go.

[Apexxx]

Get off the pipe.