Haha, option 7 on both pros and cons: It says "Porsche" on them![]()
#1
I am not as familiar with G60 (4x100) brake upgrades. The only G60 brake option outside of the Girling G60 caliper upgrade that I know of is the 12.3” Brembo package from the Seat Leon Cupra R. On to the goodies - If you have detailed information on G60 upgrades, PM me and I will post. If I am missing anything here, please PM and I will update.
Disclaimer 1:
On all setups I recommend braided lines, OE fluid and application appropriate pads (street + track, track only, etc.).
Disclaimer 2:
At the end of the day, your braking performance will ultimately be determined by the quality and condition of your tires. Worn out or crappy tires will counteract any braking performance supplied by your brakes. Secondly, a car stops its best when both front and rear tires are on the cusp of breaking traction/grip and when the brakes are at the edge of locking up. Installing a front braking setup that is too larger can shift too much of braking proportion to the front, degrading your braking performance – your rear tires will not be helping in stopping. It is always wise to maintain the same size proportions front and rear. I will cover rear brake upgrades later.
Disclaimer 3:
According to Bentley:
-The factory Corrado (G60 & VR6) ABS brake master cylinder is 20.64mm.
-The factory Corrado non-ABS brake master cylinder is 22.2mm.
-The factory mid-1995 - 1999 mk3 & B4 Passat VR6 brake master cylinder is 23.81mm
When choosing a substantially larger braking setup, it may be worth upgrading to the mid-1995, 1996-97 B4 and mk3 VR6 brake master cylinder. I do not know if this MC is a direct swap for Corrados - it should be, but you can upgrade to the entire TEVAS20 braking system. Corrado is equipped with TEVAS4. Brake boosters are interchangeable on all ABS systems - if seeking a replacement for your Corrado, use the Passat unit as it has the same fork-and-pin attachment to the brake pedal. Mk3s use a ball-and-socket connection.
TEVAS20 features EDL which is a variation on Electronic Brake Distribution. The ABS control unit is attached to the rest of the braking electronics and hard-line distribution block inside the engine bay. The factory Corrado ABS control unit from behind the driver's side kick panel is no longer needed. TEVAS20 also features individual hardlines for each wheel (4), versus the since rear hardline that splits at the rear beam with a proportioning valve.
Wiring updates and information is needed - when I have these, I will add that info.
Option 1: Pad, Rotor, Braided lines, new OE fluid
Pluses:
-Easiest, possibly most cost effective setup.
-You do not need to purchase new calipers.
-Unless you have concerns about cooking your brakes (extensive track work), plain rotors are plenty. -Slotted rotors are OK. Drilled rotors are touch-and-go. Ensure that the drilled rotor you are buying is drilled during the casting process, not after, which increases the likelihood of cracking. In most cases, plain rotors are plenty for a street car.
-Braided steel lines are a must to increase pedal feel and braking effectiveness. Rubber lines expand and contract with the increase in fluid pressure, meaning not all of your pedal work is transferred to the caliper.
-You'll be hard pressed to cook OE fluid in anything but the most extreme conditions. Use it and never have to worry about the chemical compounds within your fluid.
Minuses:
-There aren't any.
Option 2: Girling G60 brake calipers from an Audi 90
Pluses:
-A simple cost effective upgrade.
-The calipers are cheap from a pick-n-pull yard and sometimes you can even get them free. Add a couple shims, the appropriate pads and it is a bolt-on affair.
-Calipers are 2-piston items and as such have better clamping force than stock single-piston calipers.
Minuses:
-They are heavy. Heavier than stock.
-You get an increase in clamping force at the expense of increased weight.
-Some Wheels will not clear calipers (et dependent)
Detailed link to part numbers: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...liper-swap.htm
Option 3: 11.3”/Driver's Edition upgrade – found on all VR6-equipped VWs from 1996 to 1999.5
Pluses:
-The caliper features a larger piston and a larger pad.
-Rotors are not only larger in diameter (0.3”), but also 3mm thicker.
-Secure an entire spindle from a any VR6-equipped VW from the above years and you have everything you need to bolt it on.
-Larger and thicker rotor means increased thermal capacity.
-Larger piston means greater clamping force. Larger pad means greater swept area.
-Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer.
-This setup puts you only a caliper carrier/spacers and larger rotor away from Option 4 (below).
Minuses:
-The entire setup will weigh more than stock, increases your unsprung weight which detracts from handling. On the flip side, this is an OE upgrade, so all weight increases are within OE tolerances.
-Requires new front brake lines
Option 4: 12.3”/1st gen Audi TT/GTI 20th Anniversary/1.8T GLI/GTI 337 upgrade
Pluses:
-Same calipers & pads as Option 3 – simple, straight forward upgrade from 11.3”.
-Substantially larger 12.3” rotor. Same thickness as 11.3” upgrade, but now 1.3” larger in diameter.
-Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer.
-Larger rotor means increased thermal capacity, making this setup very competitive in virtually any track application with the right pads.
-To cut down on weight, ECS sells a 2-piece replica rotor with aluminum hats.
Minuses:
-16” wheels are required.
-Standard replacement rotors weigh a lot more than stock or 11.3” items.
-Requires 1st Gen Audi TT carriers & washers
-ECS 2-piece rotors are not cheap at $600/pair.
Option 5: Mk4 R32 brake upgrade.
Pluses:
-One of the best factory braking set-ups ever produced by VW, this side of multi-piston/ceramic.
-Large two-piston calipers mean increased clamping force & pad swept area
-13.1” rotors mean increased lever arm
-ECS Tuning sells 2-piece variations on rotors
Minuses:
-Very heavy, heavier than any other factory component upgrade
-Requires 17” wheels. Some will not clear depending on spoke design.
-Requires caliper carrier spacer
-Requires new brake lines
Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 11” kit
Pluses:
-Light, aluminum 4-piston calipers.
-Uses factory 11” rotors. Substantial increase in clamping force from four pistons. With proper pads, higher resistance to fade versus any other 11” option.
Minuses:
-Wilwood supplied Q-pads require a lot of heat to get up to operating temperature.
-Calipers are substantially wider than stock – will clear 15” wheels radially, but may require 5mm spacer depending on spoke design.
-Caliper pistons do not have dust boots – caliper rebuild is required every 10k to 15k miles or seasonally.
-Wilwood BP20 pads are ideal for autocross and street driving, but will reduced rotor life to 10k miles.
-Wilwood is an American company, using SAE fittings – adapters are required to connect Wilwood braided lines to factory hardline, creating point of possible fatigue if not installed correctly. Some suppliers will NOT sell you carrier adaptors separately from calipers.
Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 12.19”/13” kits
Pluses:
-Increased lever arm, increased thermal capacity, rotors are either two-piece or one-piece depending on supplier.
-Wilwood retailers/suppliers can get you thicker rotors and associated calipers, further increasing your thermal capacity.
Minuses:
-Same as Option 5.
-12.19” should fit most 16” wheels, 13” kit requires 17” wheels. Pay attention to spoke design as calipers are wider/thicker than stock, 5mm spacers may be needed.
-Rotors need to sourced from a Wilwood supplier/retailer. Sizing and thickness is proprietary to Wilwood. Rotor rings (for two-piece applications) are more expensive, as are one-piece rotors.
Option 7: ECS Tuning/Porsche Boxster Calipers
Pluses:
-Larger, 4-piston Porsche Boxster Brembo Calipers.
-Bolts on to 12.3” Audi TT rotors
-Larger pistons, larger pads means increased clamping force and swept area.
-Brembo calipers are metric – line connections are straight forward.
-Calipers say “Porsche” on them.
-Should work with most 16” wheels.
Minuses:
-Larger rotors means increased weight.
-Calipers weigh more than most factory upgrades.
-Pricey when new.
-Substantially larger caliper means greater portion of fluid is being used; factory 22mm master cylinder may not be able to handle increased fluid transfer.
-May require 17” wheels or larger spacers on 16” wheels.
-They say “Porsche” on them.
Option 8: Brembo Gran Turismo kit
Pluses:
-Made by one of the most respected manufacturers in the braking industry
-Proper fit is virtually guranteed
-Sold through TireRack, another well-respected company
-Multiple caliper color choices
-They say “Brembo” on them
Minuses:
-Pricey
-Possible brake master cylinder fatigue
-Requires 17” wheels
-Limited supply
Option 9: Custom Wilwood/StopTec kits
Pluses:
-Several suppliers available
-Custom built to fit your car
-Full catalog of Wilwood calipers and rotors
-Some suppliers will do the necessary math to ensure you are not taxing the brake master cylinder
Minuses:
-Pricey
-Can take months to build proper kit
-Not all suppliers execute your order to the same standard
Last edited by Krazee; 05-14-2012 at 09:28 AM.
#2
Haha, option 7 on both pros and cons: It says "Porsche" on them![]()
#3
Disclaimer 3:
the 1996-97 B4 Passat brake master cylinder. This one is 25mm .
is it only the vr6 ? or 1800cc or 2000cc has the some ?
#4
Etka shows exactly the same 22.2mm master cylinder on the Passat as on the Corrado, mk2, etc...
Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out
#5
Does anyone know what kind of msater cylinder bigger than 22mm that bolt on original booster of Corrado 1990
#6
Option 4:
-Requires 1st Gen Audi TT carriers & washers
This is not correct. You can use the TT, 337 or GLi carriers
#7
#8
Porsche (brembo) 4pot calipers do not weigh anywhere near factory cast steel calipers. They are aluminum and are prob half the weight of my old DE's.Just to clarify. I wish I weighed them when I had everything off the car for an accurate difference to post, but trust me they are very light.
Another "con", they are a pain in the ass to bleed.. each side (2 pistons) needs to be bled individually.
#10
denongtDoes anyone know what kind of msater cylinder bigger than 22mm that bolt on original booster of Corrado 1990
The 89-91 Audi 200 Quattro (some other models also) has a 25.4MM NON ABS master cylinder.
PN 441611021A
This is what I have in my car. Expensive if purchased new, but needed with the Porsche or Wilwood brakes. They can be found rebuilt for about $100.
HTH
Last edited by rycou34; 02-12-2012 at 07:34 PM.
#11
Interesting ^ My research came up with the same number but with a B on the end which is on later models than the A version. Useful to have 1st hand verification of the right version![]()
Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out
#12
I recently purchased a Brembo kit off the UK Corrado Club that was originally on a Cupra R and then a VR Corrado. The rotors are 323mm (12.7 in) and the calipers are the Gran Turismo. They are a direct fit for VAG 5*100.
Should I have to upgrade the MC with this setup? (I also plan on replacing the stock cast iron rear calipers with MKIV alu units)
#13
You are absolutely right. I never saw the "B" version when doing my research.
The "A" version has been working for me, though.
Here is the "B" version.
1990-94 Audi V8 Quattro
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/ate-...er_257006.html
MikkiJayne
Good catch on the expanded search![]()
#14
i know the last post was 3 months ago but just wanted to confirm.
was looking up some stuff, the passats didnt have 25mm master cylinders until 99-01..
does the 89-91 audi 200 quatro one bolt up to a corrado slc?
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R13 5
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#16