From Factory to Fancy (EMS Conversion)

[MEGA 16v GLI]

This is my first EMS installation. More pictures will be coming soon but this is what the motor looked like before the project.

[MEGA 16v GLI]

Got my cam and cam cap back from having machine work done. Machine work was done by Jarod at SCCH-Heads, He did a great job. Here is the cam with an aluminum wheel mounted on the end. The tooth is made out ferrous material. Notice the threaded 3/8 hole in the cam cap for the sensor.[IMG][/IMG]

Now i am getting ready to install the cams. This is the cam sensor for my MS2 v3.0. This motor is now capable of running sequential injection.

[Fast929]

What sensor are you using?

Looks clean. Working up the same right now....

[MEGA 16v GLI]

Thanks, wiring is one thing i am crazy about. The sensor is made by Sensoronix. It has a sealed face so it can take oil flipping all over and also rated for 300 F degrees. It was right around $120. I added the two connector plugs on the end and the braided wire covering/heat shrink. The wires were also soldered onto the pins because i don't have the nice crimping tool but oh well i like soldering better anyway.

[20v_boost]

What EMS will you be using? What crank sensor will you use?

That's a clean cam sensor, I was thinking of going with a one window wheel for my stock distributor and adding a 36-1 missing tooth sensor on the crank.

-Alex

[MEGA 16v GLI]

What EMS will you be using? What crank sensor will you use?

That's a clean cam sensor, I was thinking of going with a one window wheel for my stock distributor and adding a 36-1 missing tooth sensor on the crank.

-Alex

The EMS that i am using is Mega Squirt2 V3.0 that i built. The MS is setup to run 4 cylinder Wasted Spark Ignition and Sequential Fuel injection. The MS also has a few other mod's that i added like another MAP sensor for constant barometric correction and an Idle Valve mod + an additional board to mount the 4 injector drivers. The crank sensor that i am using is a VR sensor made by Sensoronix like the cam hall sensor. I bought the 16v crank trigger kit from 034motorsport because i like that the kit includes a custom machined spacer for the toothed wheel. The kit includes everything that is needed for a 16v motor. The crank toothed wheel has 60 teeth, 2 missing.

[MEGA 16v GLI]

I finally finished building the MS and reloaded the correct Firmware for Sequential injection. I feel very confident in my work and i am getting excited to get this 220,000 miles motor on the road. It took some time but it pays off to see your accomplishments. Once i verify that all circuits are functioning properly and then get the motor started then i will remove the MS and complete that last step. The MS will need to be cleaned with alcohol and washed with water then seal the board from condensation with a few coats of conformal coating. Here are some pictures.



This is the additional board for the injector drivers. You can't see the injector jumper wires for pins 1 and 2 but they are on the bottom side.



I had to cut the hole out for the DB-15 plug on the bottom right of the end plate. I was surprised that the DB-15 plug fit perfectly where i wanted it.

[20v_boost]

That's awesome. I wanna go full sequential one day! I like that driver board under there.

-Alex

[MEGA 16v GLI]

Thanks Alex, Its actually not to hard. I want to have a turbo someday. That driver board is for Hi-Impedance injectors. So make sure you buy the right one depending on your injectors.

[MEGA 16v GLI]

I have heard of people using an inline filter for the MAP sensor on the Mega Squirt vacuum line because its suppose to help keep the map readings a little less jumpy.

Is anybody using an inline filter? What brand?

Thanks in advance!

[MEGA 16v GLI]

More updates coming but here is the latest.




I figured out a great place to mount my MS. I threaded screws into the aluminum plate on the bottom side so that the screws would stick out making it easy to remove and install the MS if ever needed. I used little nuts to secure the MS to the aluminum plate and then i glued the aluminum plate to the Center Console.




Also decided to go with KnockSenseMS now that Megalogviewer can (datolog) Knocks. This is also awesome because the MS can be programmed to retard spark when Knock happens. Thanks to (Sr. Karrman) for showing me this. I'm so glad i found this because it will help with tuning and its just awesome having an LED to alert you if you don't hear the Knocking for some reason.

[MEGA 16v GLI]

I had to pull the relay/fuse box apart because the main + connection came lose and the rivet broke so i just decided to solder it back on. It was a crazy puzzle taking it apart and trying for a few hours to put it all back together.

[20v_boost]

Hey I just saw your post about the filter in-line with the MAP sensor. I used to run a .018" restrictor in the MAP line to smooth things out but not any more. With all the advances to MAP sampling and filtering in the latest MS extra code, I don't think you need one. I also figured out that by smoothing out the MAP signal too much ( I packed some cotton in the line at one point), you will ruin any sort of throttle response. I now run an open vacuum line from the manifold to the MS and have my lag factor set at 100.

Nice relay box btw! so clean.

-Alex

[MEGA 16v GLI]

Thanks for the input Alex. I've almost got everything sorted out. Now im wondering how to hook up my in dash tachometer. I've read through the manual but i'm a little confused with what to do. I'm using a 60-2 Wheel with VR sensor. Anybody want to chime in?

[20v_boost]

MS has a tachometer output. It can synthesize a tach signal to your old tach.

-Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[20v_boost]

MS has a tachometer output. It can synthesize a tach signal to your old tach.

-Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sr. Karmann]

Thanks for the input Alex. I've almost got everything sorted out. Now im wondering how to hook up my in dash tachometer. I've read through the manual but i'm a little confused with what to do. I'm using a 60-2 Wheel with VR sensor. Anybody want to chime in?

Some won't work off tacho, i.e. MKI cluster, was sugguested I simply run off the negative side of the coil.

I do like your cam sensor, do you think it may throw the cam out of balance tho?

MS has a tachometer output. It can synthesize a tach signal to your old tach.

-Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends on tach, my Corrado worked fine, MKI Cabby did not

[MEGA 16v GLI]

Some won't work off tacho, i.e. MKI cluster, was sugguested I simply run off the negative side of the coil.

I do like your cam sensor, do you think it may throw the cam out of balance tho?



Depends on tach, my Corrado worked fine, MKI Cabby did not

I think i'm going to try running the tach off the negitive side of the coil. The MS extra manual says to use 2 zener diodes, 1 on coil A and 1 on coil B then connect the diodes to the tach wire. Hopefully it will work.

I dont think the cams are balanced due to the way the loobs have to be positioned but i could be wrong. The cams run at half the speed of the crankshaft and the valves are constantly pushing upward on the bearings so i dont think balance could be too big of a problem. The bearing on the distributor side has alot more material than most of the other bearings for the cams so i think it should be fine.

Its definetly something good to think about but i dont think it will cause any problems. I'll let you know if i notice anything bad.

[Prof315]

I think i'm going to try running the tach off the negitive side of the coil. The MS extra manual says to use 2 zener diodes, 1 on coil A and 1 on coil B then connect the diodes to the tach wire. Hopefully it will work.

It does work I have used that mod several times with waste spark coils.

[Sr. Karmann]

I'll let you know if i notice anything bad.

Please do

It does work I have used that mod several times with waste spark coils.

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