Can't wait to see it done!
I'm back! Here is my second technical build, aptly named "A very technical build - PART II"
I kept the naming the same because i am keeping almost the same basic concept of a trunk layout, just adding a few tweaks here and there based on stuff i liked and didn't like from the first setup; and yes there were a few things that i didn't like.....
First build for the new guys reading: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...echnical-build
Problems with the first build:
- Hard to get at relays
- Wasn't very "showy"
- didn't actually get around to the subwoofer & amp install so it will be documented here
- Tight for wiring
- Lines under car need to be protected a bit more for my liking in these Canadian winters
What I wanted to add/change:
- Change location of water trap (1)
- Add water trap before the buffer tank (3)
- Add another OB2 compressor (2)
- Move the compressors closer to the tank (4)
- Add more storage room for air tools, spare parts and on the road fix it solutions for ease of road trips (6)
- Make it so that i can drain the water traps and tank without having to air out at all
So to resolve all of the above issues/wants i devised a plan (as usual )
- Change frame mounting for compressors
- Lower 3 gallon buffer tank and compressors enough so that i could fit a 3” tall floor compartment for storage right above the tank and compressors
- Move the compressors forward on the frame a bit
- Install shut off valve between tanks where the original water trap was located (1)
5 Gallon airtank box
- Add water trap between tank and manifold (7)
- Make false floor to hide all wiring and plumbing for showing off the tank from back seats (keep in mind that there is a false wall hiding the 5 gallon tank from the trunk)
- Add inflation valve to tank just incase something happens
Electrical Connection Box
- Add extensions for compressor relays, cutout through wall so they are accessible from the trunk electrical box instead of below the false floor behind the air tank
- Add amplifier for sub
Okay so here is where the fun begins......
Installed removable connection points (will be moved to the bottom of the frame) so that they can be easily replaced. Needed for the increased weight of all the compressors. They are probably 100lbs for all 3 of them with the frame, good thing i have e-level!
Drain valve on the bottom of the tank with ball valve – easy to drain and will be routed directly out of the trunk through the bottom
Compressors and tank closer together and top at around the same height
Frame redesigned, built, but not fitted in the car yet
Keep looking for updates!
can't wait to see the outcome this time! I know Ben from RI had some trouble battery/alternator wise when he ran 3 vlairs, is the power used by these more efficient or do you have plans to support the power consumption. I never thought it would be a problem, but maybe its just a myth / weird coincidence.
Hey, Mech, I'd also like to know where you got that alt from (Excessive Amperage?), since I want to go bigger than stock at some point.
Glad to see you're back in the trenches, BTW.
EDIT, nevermid, I just saw the Excessive AMperage sticker on the pic of the alt you took. Duh.
Last edited by John Reid; 02-13-2012 at 04:48 PM.
Okay i have decided to do some funky unnecessary wiring here to gain what i feel is a freakin fantastic functionality. Functionality goes as such:
- Turn on car
- Car will raise automatically due to e-level
- Press kill switch to shut off each compressor individually (or maybe all 3, haven't decided yet)
- Compressor will stay off until button is pressed or car is turned off
- If button is in the ON position (working/not lit up) when the car is turned off the switch remains in the same position
- If the button is in the OFF position (not working/yellow light showing) when the car is turned off it automatically resets itself so that when you start the car the compressors will turn on again.
This auto-resetting is fantastic for if you have just a plain toggle switch and forget to switch it back on and all of a sudden you have zero pressure in your tank. The buttons are OEM Euro switches just like the following "funk" switches found on graeme86's webpage http://www.users.on.net/~graeme86/funk/funk.html
They have a brilliant mounting spot that is out of the way and will look extremely OEM.
The wiring diagram is entirely complete except for the wiring of the actual button which is just three lines on my schematic. Here is the internal schematic, just connect 4 and 6 to grounds, 3 to your dimmer switch, 1 and 2 to splice between your line that you want to activate, and 5 from the SPDT relay NO port (87a). This SPDT relay is used purely to get the yellow light to activate when the compressors are in the OFF position and not working, which is the way i want it
Ahh, it's so nice to see someone doing an install that actually PLANS AHEAD as opposed to winging it, like many of the build threads on the Vortex seem to imply (I could be wrong, just an observation via the internet).
Yeah, making diagrams/CAD drawings can take longer, but it also causes less headaches or rebuilds.
Well done, sir.
Looking good! When can we expect SS hardlines?
I gotta ask about the three comps though... I know why... but why?
- Never heard of anybody with a VW having 3 OB2's so i wanted to be unique
- I had the extra room in my trunk if i redesigned my frame
- I had some extra amperage to play with seeing as i had an upgraded alternator already (150A at idle, so say 130 to play with so we don't run full tilt, ~20A for car functions at any one given time, that leaves 110A for compressors. 35A * 3 = 105A so it is just enough). I would need to upgrade my alternator even further to a 250A/190A idle to accomodate another compressor so it just isn't worth it.
- This way my fill time is virtually non-existent
- With this proven silencing method the compressors are silent while running so i can run as many as i want without negative side effects
- The faster the fill time the less it will start to kill my battery actually, this way my alternator can keep up to the filling and it won't start deep cycling my OEM battery, which it would if i was running it for 5 minutes or so
- Plus it fills up the trunk space nicely
LOL. I mean I would take three but I have a show car
Any in car audio? I'd love to hear how quiet these are, I think I may run isolators and move my comps into the interior.
I am just putting a simple head unit in to wire up to the monsoon speakers and amp and put in a small 10" directed audio 300W rms sub and amp in a nice sealed box for a bit of crisp bass. Will run off the other fuse I have in the trunk distribution block. The amp fits in the electrical box section of the build
Bingo. All the work on my car and ICE is all factory. Ended up growing out of that phase. I'd just love to hear in-car noise level.
LOVE LOVE the FUNK button idea, i need this in my life, I hate when the compressor kicks in while waiting for the glow to warm up and then turn off and on when firing the engine
Let me know how it goes and I'll most likely do the same
EDIT: that guy is asking for $45 shipped for the FUNK button
Last edited by kilimats; 02-15-2012 at 10:49 PM.
You can actually use any momentary push button with the wiring diagram that i gave you and just wire in an LED for an on or off indicator
Even if you do the same thing not very many people have done it at all so it will still be really unique especially at local shows