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A very technical build - PART II

49K views 184 replies 46 participants last post by  MechEngg 
#1 ·

:wave:

I'm back! Here is my second technical build, aptly named "A very technical build - PART II"
I kept the naming the same because i am keeping almost the same basic concept of a trunk layout, just adding a few tweaks here and there based on stuff i liked and didn't like from the first setup; and yes there were a few things that i didn't like.....

First build for the new guys reading: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5238122-A-very-technical-build

Problems with the first build:
- Hard to get at relays
- Wasn't very "showy"
- didn't actually get around to the subwoofer & amp install so it will be documented here
- Tight for wiring
- Lines under car need to be protected a bit more for my liking in these Canadian winters
What I wanted to add/change:
- Change location of water trap (1)
- Add water trap before the buffer tank (3)
- Add another OB2 compressor (2)
- Move the compressors closer to the tank (4)
- Add more storage room for air tools, spare parts and on the road fix it solutions for ease of road trips (6)
- Make it so that i can drain the water traps and tank without having to air out at all




So to resolve all of the above issues/wants i devised a plan (as usual :p)
Framing system
- Change frame mounting for compressors
- Lower 3 gallon buffer tank and compressors enough so that i could fit a 3” tall floor compartment for storage right above the tank and compressors
- Move the compressors forward on the frame a bit
- Install shut off valve between tanks where the original water trap was located (1)
5 Gallon airtank box
- Add water trap between tank and manifold (7)
- Make false floor to hide all wiring and plumbing for showing off the tank from back seats (keep in mind that there is a false wall hiding the 5 gallon tank from the trunk)
- Add inflation valve to tank just incase something happens
Electrical Connection Box
- Add extensions for compressor relays, cutout through wall so they are accessible from the trunk electrical box instead of below the false floor behind the air tank
- Add amplifier for sub

Okay so here is where the fun begins......


Installed removable connection points (will be moved to the bottom of the frame) so that they can be easily replaced. Needed for the increased weight of all the compressors. They are probably 100lbs for all 3 of them with the frame, good thing i have e-level!


Drain valve on the bottom of the tank with ball valve – easy to drain and will be routed directly out of the trunk through the bottom


Compressors and tank closer together and top at around the same height


Frame redesigned, built, but not fitted in the car yet



Keep looking for updates!
:popcorn:
 
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#4 ·
can't wait to see the outcome this time! I know Ben from RI had some trouble battery/alternator wise when he ran 3 vlairs, is the power used by these more efficient or do you have plans to support the power consumption. I never thought it would be a problem, but maybe its just a myth / weird coincidence.
 
#17 ·
Give EA a call and they will give you a quote :thumbup:

:thumbup: love that this is back
:) Me tooooooooooooooooooooooo

:popcorn:can't wait to see more
:thumbup::thumbup:

sweet! I really wanna redo my trunk. Looks ****ing horrid! Can't wait to see yours:thumbup::thumbup::beer:
Let me know and i might be able to help you out if you are ever in Calgary

Hey, Mech, I'd also like to know where you got that alt from (Excessive Amperage?), since I want to go bigger than stock at some point.

Glad to see you're back in the trenches, BTW.

EDIT, nevermid, I just saw the Excessive AMperage sticker on the pic of the alt you took. Duh.:facepalm:
:laugh:

Super nice build! Really like the noise isolation setup. :thumbup:
:thumbup::thumbup:
 
#23 ·
Glad i impressed you :thumbup:

Ahh, it's so nice to see someone doing an install that actually PLANS AHEAD as opposed to winging it, like many of the build threads on the Vortex seem to imply (I could be wrong, just an observation via the internet):D.

Yeah, making diagrams/CAD drawings can take longer, but it also causes less headaches or rebuilds.

Well done, sir.
I totally agree, planning is one of my favorite parts, the other favorite part is building it :p

Looking good! When can we expect SS hardlines?
Honestly i don't think i will ever do hardlines on this setup, just with the way it is designed flexible lines are much better because of the vibrations. The vibration frame will be moving slightly so hardlines to my completely stationary tank might not be the best idea, but you never know in the future :thumbup:

when he buys the stainless, i will lend him my bender
No deal, you will be enlisted to do the actual bending :p
 
#20 ·
Ahh, it's so nice to see someone doing an install that actually PLANS AHEAD as opposed to winging it, like many of the build threads on the Vortex seem to imply (I could be wrong, just an observation via the internet):D.

Yeah, making diagrams/CAD drawings can take longer, but it also causes less headaches or rebuilds.

Well done, sir.
 
#26 ·
Well here were the reasons behind getting another:
- Never heard of anybody with a VW having 3 OB2's so i wanted to be unique
- I had the extra room in my trunk if i redesigned my frame
- I had some extra amperage to play with seeing as i had an upgraded alternator already (150A at idle, so say 130 to play with so we don't run full tilt, ~20A for car functions at any one given time, that leaves 110A for compressors. 35A * 3 = 105A so it is just enough). I would need to upgrade my alternator even further to a 250A/190A idle to accomodate another compressor so it just isn't worth it.
- This way my fill time is virtually non-existent
- With this proven silencing method the compressors are silent while running so i can run as many as i want without negative side effects
- The faster the fill time the less it will start to kill my battery actually, this way my alternator can keep up to the filling and it won't start deep cycling my OEM battery, which it would if i was running it for 5 minutes or so
- Plus it fills up the trunk space nicely :D
 
#28 ·
You don't want to have three beautiful compressors showing in a show car?? :p

I am just putting a simple head unit in to wire up to the monsoon speakers and amp and put in a small 10" directed audio 300W rms sub and amp in a nice sealed box for a bit of crisp bass. Will run off the other fuse I have in the trunk distribution block. The amp fits in the electrical box section of the build
 
#31 · (Edited)
LOVE LOVE the FUNK button idea, i need this in my life, I hate when the compressor kicks in while waiting for the glow to warm up and then turn off and on when firing the engine :banghead:

Let me know how it goes and I'll most likely do the same :thumbup::thumbup:

EDIT: that guy is asking for $45 shipped for the FUNK button :sly:
 
#36 ·
Well if you ever have any questions let me know and i would be more than willing to help ya out :)

Looking good :p
Thanks Will, hopefully i get more work on it done soon



In other news I got a 20% raise at work plus a big bonus so wheels got ordered :thumbup::thumbup:
Not getting the 9.5 Miro's like i originally anticipated, going for something a bit more classy and a bit less showy. And only a select few people know what wheels they are so no spreading the word around :p
 
#38 ·
Instead of working on the airride this weekend i did a few "supporting mods" and got rid of the stock radio for a head unit from my old jetta, and old astro van, however it still works. Circa ~1998 :rolleyes:

Airride frame is going to get mounted this week, as well as a bit of wiring

 
#40 ·
For winter protection i am going to run the airlines tucked underneath the car to the front right beside the other lines that run in between the frame rails, also run wire loom around the whole thing to add cushion and protection. Similar to what i did in the rears last time

 
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