Figured this is an appropriate picture for the build
In other news I got a 20% raise at work plus a big bonus so wheels got ordered
Not getting the 9.5 Miro's like i originally anticipated, going for something a bit more classy and a bit less showy. And only a select few people know what wheels they are so no spreading the word around
Instead of working on the airride this weekend i did a few "supporting mods" and got rid of the stock radio for a head unit from my old jetta, and old astro van, however it still works. Circa ~1998
Airride frame is going to get mounted this week, as well as a bit of wiring
best write up ever! i love to see planning with such organization, it definitely makes me feel inspired to get started on my build. and what do you plan on using to protect the airlines from the harsh canadian winters?
Last edited by streetuner; 02-21-2012 at 08:33 PM.
in for this as i am installing elevel in march.. i remember reading somewhere that you shouldnt use 2 x 4s or hevy duty stuff in a trnk install cus if you do get in an eaccident your whole trunk set up is getting pushed into your rear seat and used something elseo so it woud break easy but i cannot remember.. anyone hear of something liek this happening?
I do custom trunk setups, false floor, powder coating, media blasting, polishing, custom carbon fiber parts, custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosures, wheels repair/assembly.
PM me with what you have in mind and we can make it happen!
Honestly it's not going to happen. I have heard of this before but i think it is just garbage, the way the seats are designed they are almost bulletproof (i exaggerate of course). What if you just had a 50lb object sitting in the trunk rolling around loose? What would actually do damage, that or a wooden frame that is snugly fitted inside the trunk with an airtank tightly bolted to it
Again i think that people just say stuff like this to stir up a ruckus, a 2x4 frame that is bolted or snugly fitted in your trunk is not going to do squat compared to a loose object rolling around.
But thanks for the bump!
Got my water traps on shut off valve. Shut off valve will be extremely handy because with the e-level setup if you relieve pressure from the air manifold the car lowers itself and airs out the bags too. This way i can empty my water traps and drain my 3 gallon tank without having to lose all of my air. This way it is also quicker to get back up to full pressure (not that it will take long anyways)
I am again running flex airlines directly off of the compressor. IMO the OB2 compressors don't get hot enough to do any damage to the airline, if it happens in the future i will worry about it at that point.
Everything is almost ready to install, just have to get quick disconnects for the wiring harnesses of the compressors so that they can be easily detached from the relays and its going in
JIC-FNPT adapter, then MNPT-PTC adapter, all 1/2"
All 3 compressors tee together and lead into this one water trap on the side of the tank. 1/2"PTC-3/8"MNPT adapter
Outlet from 3 gallon tank to 5 gallon tank
Crappy pic but got the frame in and it fits snug as a bug in a rug. Just perfect size for a trunk wheel well, i can see someone running just this under the floor setup and having room towards the back from the 3 gallon tank to do the manifold for a 2" raised floor setup
Again love the frame compressor mount, very well designed
great idea on the shut off valve, I've been thinking about doing it, I'll probably use a flow control for that since i will have some spare lying around, thanks again !
BTW i read somewhere that your compressor was super quiet, barely hear them at idle due to having sound barrier deadening material, could you show the coverage and how/where it's laying ?
Sorry for taking my sweet time getting back to you Matt, but here is my ultimate sound proofing plan. The b-quiet ultimate vibration absorbing on the bottom of the whole trunk with the following:
**Scale: NTS (AKA take your own measurements you lazy a$$)
Last edited by MechEngg; 03-07-2012 at 01:00 PM.
Not to scale, do not want
At this point I feel like we would be better served with a large motor driven compressor... FOUR OBD2's?!?!
Badly in need of a drop but other than that it is looking just how i envisioned
Yes it is the rear deck and it makes a night and day difference. There are basically 2 paths for soundwaves to get from the trunk to the passenger compartment in a jetta, 1 is the back seats (which are pretty darn good at absorbing sound waves) and the think rear deck. It makes a killer difference and i would HIGHLY recommend it to anybody with a jetta! On a golf you can do the same with your rear flip lid but you might need to reinforce the string pulls because this vcomp is pretty heavy
Welcome to the dark side of road noise reduction, my friend.
Build is looking great.
Pro tips to those that just came to this thread:
"Deadener" (like Dynamat) is for VIBRATION only, and won't work well (or at all) with stopping airborne noise. IT WILL help reduce rattles.
"Sound proofer", like the V-Comp composite, is for AIRBORNE noise (road/engine/tire noise, etc.). The open cell foam scatters sound waves due to it's porous surface, and the heavy vinyl does it's best to keep that scattered sound away from your ears.
I know I'm sounding like a broken record here, but it'll save you all money and heartache in the end.
By the way, use this adhesive if you want the VComp (or carpet, vinyl, etc.) to stay put forever.
Last edited by John Reid; 03-19-2012 at 09:52 AM.
very interesting... ive been toying with two ideas.. a better drainage system for my tank and to quiet her down.. because she is loud.. doesnt bother me much because i dont play around much and the compressor is on maybe 1 minute if so much... but.. good **** here
For HIDS/LEDS PM Me
If you're thinking of doing a ZKW projector retrofit, you're on heroin. If you're thinking of bolting BMW lights up to where your GTI lights sit now, you're on poor quality heroin.
What compressor and tank are you running to get a 1 minute fill time? Must be an OB2 with a 3 gallon I bet
I always thought the vibration layer took care of blocking of waves and for that reason have been greatly disappointed when i had it in my ex-MK3. I learned about the three layers (Vibration/Foam/Vynil) after installing the bags last year and can't wait to hear the difference, I'll order all the required stuff after moving in our new townhome next month.
I'll try to take a before and after MP3 comparaison as well.
MechEng will you add a Vynil layer at some point or you're already satisfied with the dampening result ?
I found this company selling the sound dampening material at killer price: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Bquiet is indeed cheaper than dynamat but still more expensive than second Skin and the company linked above
EDIT: another critical thing i learned a few weeks ago is that Vibration dampeners layer should really only be applied to 25% of the center panels, in my previous project i covered the WHOLE DAMN TRUNK area with it, waste of money and extra unneeded weight
Last edited by kilimats; 03-19-2012 at 02:33 PM.