Sorry for taking my sweet time getting back to you Matt, but here is my ultimate sound proofing plan. The b-quiet ultimate vibration absorbing on the bottom of the whole trunk with the following:
**Scale: NTS (AKA take your own measurements you lazy a$$)
Last edited by MechEngg; 03-07-2012 at 01:00 PM.
Not to scale, do not want
At this point I feel like we would be better served with a large motor driven compressor... FOUR OBD2's?!?!
Badly in need of a drop but other than that it is looking just how i envisioned
Yes it is the rear deck and it makes a night and day difference. There are basically 2 paths for soundwaves to get from the trunk to the passenger compartment in a jetta, 1 is the back seats (which are pretty darn good at absorbing sound waves) and the think rear deck. It makes a killer difference and i would HIGHLY recommend it to anybody with a jetta! On a golf you can do the same with your rear flip lid but you might need to reinforce the string pulls because this vcomp is pretty heavy
Welcome to the dark side of road noise reduction, my friend.
Build is looking great.
Pro tips to those that just came to this thread:
"Deadener" (like Dynamat) is for VIBRATION only, and won't work well (or at all) with stopping airborne noise. IT WILL help reduce rattles.
"Sound proofer", like the V-Comp composite, is for AIRBORNE noise (road/engine/tire noise, etc.). The open cell foam scatters sound waves due to it's porous surface, and the heavy vinyl does it's best to keep that scattered sound away from your ears.
I know I'm sounding like a broken record here, but it'll save you all money and heartache in the end.
By the way, use this adhesive if you want the VComp (or carpet, vinyl, etc.) to stay put forever.
Last edited by John Reid; 03-19-2012 at 09:52 AM.
very interesting... ive been toying with two ideas.. a better drainage system for my tank and to quiet her down.. because she is loud.. doesnt bother me much because i dont play around much and the compressor is on maybe 1 minute if so much... but.. good **** here
For HIDS/LEDS PM Me
BUY MY WHEELS >>>> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...8#post83089728
What compressor and tank are you running to get a 1 minute fill time? Must be an OB2 with a 3 gallon I bet
I always thought the vibration layer took care of blocking of waves and for that reason have been greatly disappointed when i had it in my ex-MK3. I learned about the three layers (Vibration/Foam/Vynil) after installing the bags last year and can't wait to hear the difference, I'll order all the required stuff after moving in our new townhome next month.
I'll try to take a before and after MP3 comparaison as well.
MechEng will you add a Vynil layer at some point or you're already satisfied with the dampening result ?
I found this company selling the sound dampening material at killer price: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Bquiet is indeed cheaper than dynamat but still more expensive than second Skin and the company linked above
EDIT: another critical thing i learned a few weeks ago is that Vibration dampeners layer should really only be applied to 25% of the center panels, in my previous project i covered the WHOLE DAMN TRUNK area with it, waste of money and extra unneeded weight
Last edited by kilimats; 03-19-2012 at 02:33 PM.
Yeah, that's true... but since I do it for my audio itch, I usually go off with deadener and cover the entire interior of the car, doubling up in some key areas.
I do this to lessen the localization of my speakers due to their vibration. It's partly habit from past competition installs, but also since I have 8" midbasses and two 15" subs, so vibration is something I'm familiar with.
I think in the case you guys are dealing with, which is a specific component making the noise, it should be doable, and produce good results.
I have to say that in my JSW, pretty much all of the road noise now comes from my windows, which I unfortunately can't do anything about.
^^^Thanks for cluttering up my thread jerks!
Anyways i finally found a house to buy so that has almost gone through so i now have a free weekend coming up. Got some work done this evening. Pictures!!
Keeping the wiring very clean this time, well it was clean last time too, just cleaner i guess
Wires on the right are quick disconnects for the compressors. Rated at 10AWG each side i am running them as two positives to the compressors. Going to ground the compressors to the metal vibration frame, which will ground to the frame of the car. Tubing coming from the shut off valve in the trunk already
Pressure gauge and pressure transducer
Air tool quick connect directed so i have access from the back seats
205psi safety valve to prevent over pressurization
Water trap to manifold. also a good picture of the relay wiring. Relays are placed as such so that i have access to swap them out or check them or even just pull them from the trunk compartment in the side electrical box