Looking into the very very small problem of the power draw still, might add an external regulator to crank the voltage up to 16V or 17V and a different regulator to keep the rest of the car at 13.8 while running the compressors, it might help to reduce the amperage draw by enough. The other option is sizing out a good size capacitor to hold the correct amount of power for one full 40 second compressor cycle so that the battery stays charged, essentially like adding another battery but i can easily hide it in the side of the trunk in the CD changer place
In other news the trunk is ALMOST finished, just one more panel to make. I ran out of MDF yesterday
Why not hide a deka or another similar small battery in the back somewhere? This would be an easy solution.
Figure out what the problem was with the compressors and why i couldn't run all 3 at idle.....
- When i bought the car it had a big motomaster battery in it, too big for the box and very close to my retrofits
- Did not like it so when i swapped out the alternator we swapped out the battery as well to my OEM battery from my old jetta (battery sitting on concrete garage floor for 8 months during winter without a charge)
You kinda see what happened here....the old OEM battery **** the bed completely last week. Swapped out the battery to the motomaster one and all 3 comps can run at idle.
But at least it is fixed
Emptied water traps and tanks today. Water results below
Water trap 1: 1/2 full
3 gallon tank: ~25 tbsp in the bottom (3 second flow through a 1/4" barb)
Water trap 2: zero water
5 gallon tank: zero water
Water trap 3: zero water
I think the combination will prevent any water from screwing up the system in the winters
Sitting with exactly the same rim to fender gap on the fronts and the rears. Sounds good to me, unfortunately the lip is taking a beating and i am going to have to redo it this winter. Also thinking that a 4-mo lip might be a good bet for the winter